I had a lot on my mind this morningsnd just wasn't paying attention to what I was doing when I started replacing the axle cover on the left side of my coach. I completely spaced the fact that they are left hand threads and started going to town with my torque multiplier. sure enough I had my
Oh shit moment when the stud started spinning freely. I'm not sure how to get the stud out at this point. How bad did I screw up?
https://youtube.com/shorts/YNygwy4Gn2M?si=EUThWYbZY-GmJPHF
Think you have to get the wheel off to get to the nut holding the inner wheel on,devise someway of getting the bad nut off,do you have a die grinder and cutoff wheel to cut the nut.
You can try using two wrenches and get the outer nut off the rectangular nut or you will have to
do what John said and somehow get the nut off so you can remove the wheel.
Start with the PB and 2 wrenches, then have a chat with your local tire shop.
If that doesn't work, out with the cut-off is the only thing I can think of.
Best of luck
Did it go bang when it broke the stud? Pull the wheel off to get to the backside. Its doesnt look like it will prevent removing the wheel being that loose
https://youtu.be/s2jRnifHkXQ?si=0oBFS8H0GFgY5Fv1
My Milwaukee 12v Dremel made pretty quick work of the nut, so that's off now. No bang when it came off Scott.
I don't yet fully understand how these studs are held on, nor do I have a way to support the coach off the ground other than my recently rebuilt, and largely un-tested, leveling jacks so I guess I need to get my hands on a 10 ton jack stand before I go any further. Will also need a new nut and stud.
Scott, the tag line in your forum signature makes me think I must be really tough.
Ok so I better understand how this all goes together now. Presumably the inner stud, that the inner nut threads onto, sheered off given how the inner nut is just free-spinning and I can't thread it back on (also the nut on the back side of the wheel is firmly in place).
So - assuming that's the case, is that stud easily replaced without removing the drum etc? Trying to decide if I do indeed want to tackle this job at home or if I should start hunting for a mechanic
Pretty sure that it goes through the drum .
I use a cradle on a floor jack.
You know your going to do a better job if you do it,plus you may get the yeah-who who says he can do it but in reality has no clue.
Look on market place for one jackstand.
Yea if I had a good heavy duty mechanic it would be an easy decision, but I don't so if this is something that's fairly straightforward to do I'm going to try and tackle it myself I think. I have a 22 ton jack, stands, and axle cradle on order.
This guy will show how to replace inner studs with brake drums.
https://youtu.be/xHPa5FOxq7c?si=vIXIPgjoyeycnb7j
Thanks very helpful. Looking forward to learning another new skill.
Could be worse...it's not like I snapped off the aqua burner eye bolt again
Elliot,looking at the picture,do you need shoes,now's the time.
Supposedly they were done by the previous owner right before he sold it to me but I guess we'll find out
There is a stud in the axle that the inner nut screws onto to secure the inner wheel. Then when those are all tightened you install the outer wheel and the hex nut to hold the outer wheel on.
I have a left-handed stud on driver's side steer axle stripped from the last time I bought tires a few years ago. I reminded the guy with the air impact wrench they were left-handed threads when he was struggling removing the 1st. nut. Even though they torqued the nuts with their torque wrench after installing new tires he never mentioned anything?? Only after installing Centromatics this past winter in Quartzite with the gang in the dirt we noticed a stripped stud.
Wheel studs are pressed into place.
To get a broken stud out of disc brake coach:
Remove the rear-side nut.
Press out the broken stud from the rear by pushing outward.
Make a tool that can force the broken thread-end by pressing against the disc brake.
Protect the disk brake surface.
A tool could be two short bolts connected with a coupling nut.
Or use broken wheel stud threads into one end of coupling nut.
Turning coupling nut extends the tool length exerting movable force on the rear of the wheel stud, pressing it outward.
New wheel stud is pressed (pulled) into place by tightening the rear nut that comes with the new stud.
Does anyone know the stud specs by chance? I'd like to order the hardware while I wait for my jack stands to arrive.
I know these are the nuts: Outer Cap Nut E5552R 21AX95 300249 TBWA015R - Raney's Truck Parts (https://www.raneystruckparts.com/outer-cap-nut-e5552r-21ax95-300249-tbwa015r/)
And I think these are the inner nuts: 2.25" Inner Cap Nut 10709 E5549L E7895L E7895LBK BB1132 534766 - Raney's... (https://www.raneystruckparts.com/2-25-inner-cap-nut-10709-e5549l-e7895l-e7895lbk-bb1132-534766/)
But I have no idea which of these studs is correct: Semi Truck Wheel Studs Wheel Bolts (https://www.raneystruckparts.com/wheel-studs-lug-nuts/)
Elliott call me I pm'd you with a number. I have many lug's and nuts from trucks I dismantled.
Elliot does your coach have both Alcoa wheels on each side in the rear. If it does it takes a special long inner nut you will probably need to get one off so that you can match it up. If you drive up on a block on the inner wheel so that the outer wheel is off the ground. You will be able to remove the outer wheel and then be able to see what inner stud you need. Then when you get the jack stand take off the inner wheel. I think you can take the brake drum off without having to remove the hub assembly. There should be 3 or 4 large straight slot screws that you remove and then slide the drum off. You can probably drive the broken stud out of the hub and then use the mounting nut to pull the new stud in.
Are the Philips head screws holding the drum on right hand thread? And is there a trick to getting them off (very tight)
They would be right hand thread and an impact driver is the best tool to take them off. That impact
driver is the one you use with a hammer .
When I had my tires replaced, I went to Bauer Built Tire just south of Chicago, what a night mare!
After waiting several hours for them to complete the job, I checked with the service manager on what was taking so long. followed him as he went out to the shop to find out. I was stunned to see a Army of "techs" hovered around my left rear wheel. I could see several lug nuts completely butchered and one with a VICEGRIP pliers attached and a idiot trying to unscrew the lug nut.
I then heard the service manger whisper, but not enough so I didn't hear, to the techs gathered around, "You know those are reverse threads don't you?"
He then ordered one of them to retrieve a new wheel from inventory and then proceed to cut the wheel off with a torch.
They were not able to replace the broken studs but suggested another shop near by to do that job. All I wanted to do is get my coach out of there.
I drove about 1 1/2 hours to have another shop to replace the broken studs, it cost me about $700 to repair Bauer Builts damage.
The repair shop was stunned to hear and witness what a mess Bauer built made of a simple tire change, Bauer is a Truck tire shop.
Lesson learned; don't trust anyone assuming they actually know what they are doing!
Sorry couldn't remember that the screws are phillips head. I had a hand held impact driver that you hit with a hammer and that would get them out. Also blaster is your friend. Put it on and come back tomorrow. I got my impact driver at Sears many years ago.
Posted it a while back,TM tire,Midloathian ILL.,they knew mine were left hand.
I took our coach to the tire place I have used for years the other day. Only 2 of the old techs are still there. It is basically a truck tire shop. When the guy came to get started. Another guy came over with him and explained in his language that the right side is right hand and the left side is left hand. The guy said like Isuzu. He didn't really understand English and I totally didn't understand his language, but he got the job accomplished for me. I was very appreciative of the one guy helping the other guy out.
An impact screwdriver got the screws out and a 10lb sledge hammer with a lot of PB blaster got the drum off.
Huge thanks to craneman for fielding numerous questions I've had over the phone
Here is a good note, You got to check the brake pads and they look great from the picture.
Humpty Dumpty is all back together. I put all new studs, inner nuts, and outer nuts in since I was in there. thanks for all the help guys, this forced me to get comfortable jacking the coach up off the ground and tearing into a new area that I haven't been before. really not that big of a deal now that I have the tools but you don't know until you know.
New axle and lug nut caps are on and she looks great ^.^d
Good job Elliott! Those are some lengthy valve stems, hope you have valve stem stabilizers.
Nice. Are they right or left threaded?
I took the time to use the cats eye connector to tie the inner and outer together . Plus spun the outer stem to the outside . Now I can single point add air . Your package looks a lot nicer than mine .