My Norcold refrigerator is showing the code
no
co
On the display, flashing first no then co repeating.
What does this mean?
That's a NO COOLING code...
I think there may be a reset - is it frozen up?
Id take away all.power as a start (120VAC and 12VDC) Then reapply.
Nope.
Not frozen.
Will try pulling power.
That's always a good starting point - which Norcold? My old fiver had a Norcold with a reset in the back I think?
What model Norcold??????
The No Co error is triggered when your fridge does not produce refrigerant for 2 hours. When your fridge does not produce refrigerant, this means the boiler is overheating.
The No Co error is triggered when your fridge does not produce refrigerant... (https://www.google.com/search?q=The+No+Co+error+is+triggered+when+your+fridge+does+not+produce+refrigerant+for+2+hours.+When+your+fridge+does+not+produce+refrigerant%2C+this+means+the+boiler+is+overheating.&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS909US909&oq=The+No+Co+error+is+triggered+when+your+fridge+does+not+produce+refrigerant+for+2+hours.+When+your+fridge+does+not+produce+refrigerant%2C+this+means+the+boiler+is+overheating.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCDEwMDVqMGo3qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
Just some info.....
I have replaced/repaired several fridges in the the various RVs I have owned over the years. I have examined/repaired more that were not mine. I have yet to find ONE installation that meets the OEM install requirements for distance between cooling coils and back wall. I advise every RV owner to look up the install specs for their particular unit and check yours against them.
A correct install creates a chimney where the cooling air flows THROUGH the coils. Too much distance between the back wall and the coils allows the air to flow AROUND the coils. Too little affects the air velocity. One inch makes a LOT of difference in cooling, especially in hot weather. Coils too hot = fridge not cooling.
If your fridge is installed on an outside wall, the easiest way to check is to open the outside access panel and use a mirror to look up into the chimney. If yours is on an inside wall, you can remove the vent top in the rook and look down. If you think your space is too wide, it probably is. NOTE: One baffle in the space only constricts the chimney whee the baffle is; meaning, you will get proper cooling at the baffle but the air continues to bypass the coils elsewhere. Multiple baffles are better but the fix is a solid wall at the speced distance from the coils.
REPAIR: I use fiberglass HVAC duct board to makeup the excess space. Use Liquid Nail to glue the duct board to your existing back wall. FOIL SIDE FACES THE COILS. Finish the edges with HVAC METAL tape. Clean the existing surfaces before starting so glue and tape will bind well. Duct board comes in 1" and 2" thicknesses. If I need 1/2" to make up space, I glue/screw 1/2" plywood to the wall first, then use duct board.
Also FYI, I have never had the opportunity to examine a Foretravel so it would be of interest to know if they install according to spec.
TOM
Moby, any update on this? The cause and the fix? Lots of us have Norcolds.