The Big Bay Door on the passenger side has come loose from the steel framework that controls the door panel, most of the pop-rivets have come loose allowing the door to flop about. None of the other bay door are loose.
There is a tape material between the framework and the door panel that has deteriorated, it may have been an adhesive?
The pop-rivets have messed up the formerly round panel holes. I tried replacing a pop-rivet with a 1/2 inch long one, no joy.
The panel is foam filled, otherwise hollow, and about 1 inch deep on the bottom rivet row, almost twice that on the top rivet row.
I am thinking 3M HD tape and drilling new holes near the current holes and new pop-rivets.
Ideas and comments please.
Tim
I own a 95 U320. It uses the turn knob type of door latch on each bay. Not sure what style you have on your 96.
Mine have been a pain since I have owned the coach, they always strip out on the door attachment. I have tried glue, and bigger rivets, nothing seems to last.
Next I will through drill the latch handle bolts and the end bolts where the latch knob operates the coach mounted latch.
The bay doors and there tilting design are the biggest complaint I have on the coach. I call them the scalping doors. I accept that I will get the top of my head scalped every time I have to do the limbo to get in the bays.
Can you post a picture of where the rivets pulled out? That will probably get more suggestions. I don't know if using a backing strip is possible without seeing the issue.
I had the same thing happen on one of my bay doors last year while traveling. I removed all old rivets and just drilled new holes for the new rivets. Has worked well without issues since.
How long and what diameter are the rivets you used?
Door pics
Tim,
I sure hate it when that happens. They should have put some backing plates behind there to put the rivet into. Now for a fix?patch that does take some effort but will work as I haven't lost my mind. I will see if I can explain as I have no pic.
Take the door off and lay it on a pic nick table frame and all
Drill out the bad rivets
You will need a small squeeze bottle with a small spout.
Put some baking soda in bottle
Use this to fill the hollow hole where the rivet came out of.
Take a tooth pick and make sure that the cavity behind the fiberglass is filled with the baking soda.
Now the kicker
Put several drops of supper glue on the baking soda. The soda will suck it up like a sponge you will be able to tell how much supper glue is enough. Do all holes at the same time.
Let this set for a while an hour or so
Redrill the hole to original size I think 3/16" through the sopper glue/ soda filler.
Install all rivets just don't pull them all the way till they pop just tight and cut off the nail
Put door back on.
This will make somewhat a backing plate and will work till you can take the inner fiberglass apart from the outer and install proper backing plates.
Mike
Another solution is to use these rivets.
Amazon.com: Tri-Fold Exploding Pop Rivets 3/16 (#6) Aluminum Shaveable Head... (https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Fold-Exploding-Aluminum-Shaveable-0-050-0-375/dp/B07JZSR993?th=1)
I used the Tri-fold pop rivets to fix a spring strut mount that had failed on my big bay door - I have a U270. I think they are very useful as they spread the load in that blind space in the door.
On your door you could do as Mike says but add a couple Tri-fold rivets near the bad ones and then do the baking soda/superglue process with the enlarged original holes.
Or you could take it to Xtreme in Nac and say "fix it please."
Tim, if I remember, I used 3/16 aluminum rivits. I only had a manual rivet gun and it's difficult to get a good squeeze with my arthritic fingers. But I managed with the 3/16 and they have held fine. I also was not able to get into some of the places due to the hinges and framing. So put them where I could. Removed all the old rivets that were damaged or loose so i could get the cover on snug. An electric/battery or air pop rivet gun would probably be a good idea unless you have a good grip. Sorry do not remember the length. You can remove one of the old ones and get an idea.
Are the two air-struts too strong, putting extra stress on hinge.
It is fixed!
The only pop-rivets that I could find are 3/16" by 1/2".
I drilled new holes near the failed rivets and installed them.
I will acquier some tri-fold rivets and install several of them.
Thanks to all of you.......
Tim
Not the hinge. The door panel to the door's frame.
We bought James Stallings' '95 U320 after he and Foretravel parted ways and he went with a Prevost. He had worked that rig from stem to stern and knew every part that was (perhaps) under engineered and needed reinforcement. A phone call may give you his expertise on a reinforcing solution for your problem. James is the one who taught us about the "Foretravel Bump" ... a maneuver to to hit each bay door (especially the very long ones) with your hip or knee or some other body part to make sure the latches were truly engaged. You could hear them close ! He especially told us that he NEVER used the ladder attached to the rear for anything other than hanging some lawn chairs or another ladder. Especially if you are a big guy, like James. They were not reinforced enough to make him feel safe. He got rid of his entirely and split the engine bay door to open like a book.
The rivets are there only to hold the door in place while the glue between the metal and fiberglass sets
. I think originally they used a 2 sided tape--was not able to find out what the exact product was. I did check with an adhesives engineer and he said polyurethane would work fine on this type of construction--everything has to be super clean then apply the product, but before is starts to cure line up the rivets and put them in place, this will insure that the metal frame and door are in the right position to work properly. I have 2 doors the large one on driver side and the one forward to it. When I went to look at installing them I found out not all doors are created equal. You can't just measure the overall length and height of door and expect them to work, you have to also measure the metal layout on the door, my doors metal was mostly centered, the doors that I had purchased although being correct overall dimension the metal frame was about 1-1/2" closer to one end than the other. so I chose to Just fix my original doors.
Sorry for long post hope it helps someone
Chris
BTY if someone needs doors these are for sale send me a pm