I thought this was going to be easy but I'm having a hard time removing the air dryer cartridge. I've tried 4 different tools...2 strap type and 2 band type. Just doesn't seem to be enough room to get leverage. The oil fill and dipstick tubes aren't helping either, they are in the way as soon as I get grip. Any tips? Am I supposed to remove the bracket holding the dryer on to make more room? Though that would make it so I don't have a solid base to torque on.
Also, from what I've read so far...I need to bleed all the tanks (except hwh slide tank) not just the wet tank correct?
1 This is the reason I remove the dryer out the bottom and work on it on the shop bench. By doing this you can access the lower end that needs to be cleaned and serviced. The lower end is just as important to service as is the 2 filter elements.
2. It is safer that way. By doing this you can see if the check valves are leaking and need replacement.
Mike
I just did this job this past weekend and I didn't have any problem getting the big filter off with a strap wrench but I do appreciate your comment that the oil fill and dipstick tubes weren't doing you any favors. Of course I had changed the filter last so that's probably why it wasn't too tight. I do agree with Mike and I did wind up removing the entire assembly to work on it on the bench however I struggled mightily with the air inlet fitting. The problem is that it's a little corroded (probably due to the moisture in that line) and i have to say I disagree with Foretravels choice to use a 45 degree fitting on that inlet connection. The nut on the line is 1 1/4" which is a combination wrench that I did not previously own. There is absolutely no clearance to get an adjustable wrench in there (and I loathe them anyway) so off to Home Depot I went to buy the wrench. The combination wrench fits a little better but there is still only room to swing a couple of degrees at most. That line was absolutely not going to budge and it started to turn the 45 degree fitting which only made things worse. I finally had to resort to heat which eventually did the trick. The other two air lines came off very easy and I was able to put the whole unit on the bench and change out the bottom end parts as well (Haldex DQ 6020) which I highly recommend.
Dylan I don't mean to hijack your post and I'm sorry for the long reply. I would keep at it with the strap wrench and I think you will finally get it. You should remove the whole assemby anyway but then I think you will find that there's really no way to secure the whole thing because you still need to get the filter off.
Lastly a question for all. Notice in my picture the red arrow at the base of the threaded boss where the filter canister screws on, it looks like a groove for an O-ring. My old filter did not have one installed and the new kit (Haldex DQ6026) did not include one but the instructions mention removing the old one and discarding it. Can anyone comment on whether they had this O-ring either on their old filter canister or the new kit?
So how will I know if the check valves are working properly? If I drain the tanks and then air leaks when I take the dryer apart, does that mean the check valves are not working?
I've been searching this forum and others and so far I can't find a good video or step by step tutorial with pictures on how to install the rebuild kit I have...though I do have the directions from the kit (DQ6020) and it seems pretty straight forward...but I'm dumb and like my hand held.
Hijack all you want...the more information the better. I do notice a thick o-ring with a flange on it in the new cartridge, wonder if that's why you don't need the o-ring in the groove.
By check valve are you referring to the one at the wet tank?
I too was unable to find any useful information on YouTube and the instructions from Haldex are really lacking particularly in the fact that they don't include any useful diagrams. I was very careful during disassembly to note the correct orientation of all parts for re-assembly.
In case anyone is curious what's inside the filter cartridge I've attached some pics and yes I waited way too long to service it.
Look for a strap wrench like this:
1/2" Drive Nylon Strap Oil Filter Wrench - Gearwrench 3149 | FCP Euro (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/6-strap-oil-filter-wrench-gearwrench-3149?ads_cmpid=20892570397&ads_adid=&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=x&ads_creative=&utm_term=&ads_targetid=&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyJqzBhBaEiwAWDRJVHzgvq5vO6WzxqYtGAB0JqRVyVcD1pdwd9WHI2DgycjLccyFRAnH5BoCzloQAvD_BwE)
I had that one..it worked great for all my other filters...but I ripped out the strap trying to remove this dryer cartridge.
This looks just like my Snap-On and is about $50.00 less. Takes my dryer off and Caterpillar oil filters too.
K Tool 73731 Oil Filter Strap Wrench, up to 9" Diameter, Heavy Duty Nylon,... (https://www.jbtools.com/k-tool-73731-oil-filter-strap-wrench-up-to-9-diameter-heavy-duty-nylon-use-3-8-or-1-2-drive-tools/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyJqzBhBaEiwAWDRJVPS6-NzLoYRbQs3sxMZt6nw38GMgjB_IJ-Ml53Pp9ZnJh7p7KV9WnRoCqjgQAvD_BwE)
Ha, I saw that one last week and almost got it 👍
I did break it loose finally...the large band wrench was giving me the best bite for the limited space I had but it wasn't until I added extensions and a breaker bar to my ratchet that it finally broke free.
Thanks for everyone's input on this topic..... I too need to service my air dryer on a 2001 U320. I looked up the DQ6020 parts reference, and it shows lots of pieces, but I see no filter. Where did/does one buy the correct and complete kit to service the air dryer.
You need both kits, the DQ6020 and the DQ6026. I bought both of these at FindItParts.com. I think on every other service you could just do the dessicant cartridge and the coalescing filter (DQ6026). I'm still working out the correct service frequency for me. I think 3+ years and roughly 15k miles was a bit too long so I think I will do this again in 2 years or 10k miles. I think the dessicant cartridge is the most important to do because if it fails it can contaminate your entire air system. Any of the other parts will tell you there's a problem if you're checking your wet tank regularly.
Dylan,
A little more info for you about the tank check valves.
If you drain the wet tank and you loose pressure in the 2 other tanks then this indicates that those check valves are leaking by.
I should have expanded on that thought.
Mike
Got it, so if my check valves are working then I could just drain my wet tank and not worry about the front tanks to work on my dryer correct?
There are check valves into and exiting the dryer . You should not have to drain the tanks to swap the dryer cartridge . There are/ may be check valves at the tank inlets.
Question about the cartridge...I've had this cartridge in my house for about a year without the plastic wrap. Would I have any issues installing it with it being not sealed for so long?
Not ideal . You can bake it for an hour at 300.. It's supposed to dry them out .
Might remove the rubber ring first ??
Ok, i guess i can do that just just to be safe...i guess it could have absorbed some moisture while it was sitting without being sealed.
Here is a link to a YouTube video showing how to rebuild the purge valve. If I was going through the trouble to remove it. I would rebuild this at the same time.
https://youtu.be/D7faXrKbMQQ?si=0VrhJObwrs0XmPEx