I have been experiencing a short and it is gradually getting worse.
At first I could hear a buzzer, like the signal light buzzer, but it would flicker when I was not using my signal light.
A few days later I noticed that the PARK BRAKE light would flicker at the same time as the buzzer.
Finally the BUZZER and PARK BRAKE light came on and stayed on together.
If I applied the park brake, they would both go off.
Over the past week when the above happens and the BUZZER and PARK BRAKE light come on and stay on together,
all of the dash gauges go off. No speedometer, Tach, Fuel, Leveling, Windshield wipers, Cruise, all off. The only gauges that work is the air pressure. This happens while under way and the buzzer will drone on until I stop and apply the PARK BRAKE.
I opened the compartment in front of the passenger seat and started moving things around. The power was restored to the gauges.
The next time this happened I stopped and turned off the coach, It would not restart. Again in front of the passenger compartment I pushed on a few things and voila, power was restored and I was able to start with no problem.
when driving and everything is going normal, it seems that when I use my turn signal it will aggravate the PARK BRAKE light and BUZZER and the above scenario will play out again.
I am going to work on it tomorrow morning and would like to get everyone's input.
I thought initially it might be a flasher, but the signal lights and Hazard lights work if there is power.
After reading other posts, I suspect it is the Starter Solenoid getting stuck and cutting power to the dash. I don't think the solenoid is the cause of the problem, rather it might be reacting to the voltage spike from the short. I have no idea yet where the short might be.
My guru buddy pulled most of the wires off the dash gauges and switches and recrimped their ends. Then reinstalled the same
Replace the ignition relay(s)/solenoid bottom center of the large 12v panel in front of co-pilot seat.
Sounds like a bad ground. I would check the voltage at some of the gauges and see if the 12v coming into them is reading the same voltage as the battery. I would also look for the grounding posts/lugs where all the ground wires are tying together for the dash and take them off and clean them. The gauges have separate ground wires running to a ground point, and then there should be a larger wire that ties that point back to the chassis and batteries. For all the gauges to go out at the same time, it's more likely the large wire that grounds the dash. The light and buzzer a likely the voltage from the gauges trying to find ground through other sources. You should be looking for a bunch of black wires with ring terminals on them connected to a single post, or there might be a few posts.
The Air pressure gauge is mechanical. It reads air pressure directly from the air lines, so electrical issues won't effect that.
I'm having a similar issue with my 91. The temperature gauges decided to start reading really high if I have the dash blower fan on. It was a bit of a pucker factor to look down and see the coolant temp at ~230°F.
Caflashbob: I have a new solenoid coming on Monday. I plan to replace the solenoid in front of the passenger seat and test everything again. Here are the results of the solenoid voltage tested today. I numbered the posts on the Solenoid starting on the left 1=Input voltage, 2=smaller connector, 3 = small connector, 4 = Larger output connector.
Key off boost on: 1 = 12.40, 2 = 0 Volts, 3 = 12.11, 4 = 0 Volts
Key on boost on: 1 = 13.89, 2 = 0 Volts, 3 = 13.56, 4 = 13.51
kgrover = I pulled cables off of chassis batteries and cleaned them. Looked behind dash and found the ground bar near the A pillar. It connects to a braided cable the goes down to the floor. I lost sight of it, not sure where the braided cable connects to ground.
IIRC on a '98 the connection is in the basement between the HWH control box and the back of the Inverter/converter on the roof of the basement. Could be right behind the antilock brake control module in that same area.
Mike