Looking for the best possible residential fridge replacement that will fit in a 2000 U 320 no slides rig. I rather go with a resdential then the old assorbution fridge.
What size is the box ?
A lot depends on how big a fridge you would want, I put in a 13 cubit Frigidaire and an 8 inch
sliding pantry beside it, which has been perfect for us. Others have put in a lot bigger 3
drawer fridge. That when I open my fridge I don't have to walk around an open door is
a big plus for me.
My '99 has a 22 cu. ft. Frigidaire 2 door that the PO installed.
Properly done a residential refrigerator is not a straight drop-in replacement. Part of the install needs to include either sealing off the outside vents and then having the fridge have enough clearance for it to vent to the inside. Or somehow sealing off the space around the outside of the fridge letting it vent outside.
Next need is supplying power. If you are always plugged in at campsites than you are good to go. If you want or need to operate the fridge while driving, you now have to consider the additional load on the batteries and charging system. A 600 watt refrigerator is a 50 A/H load at 12 volts. The same as 6 pairs of headlamps. For dry camping you will likely need more battery capacity and inverter/charging set up that can charge the batteries in a timely manner using the generator. Solar will also be helpful. A 600 A/H battery set up and a 150 A/H charger will put you at 2 to 4 hours generator/day especially with other usage. The engine alternator and charging system will need to be addressed to support this.
There are some 12-volt compressor-based refrigerators that are designed for off grid systems. Expensive yes, but these may be a better long-term solution.
Dennis
Bohemia NY
2008 Nimbus 342 SE
I just did a replacement in my 98 u320. Please see reply number 48 in discussion "replacing fridge". Any questions please ask as I did all the research on fitment, type etc!
We just spent 30 days with no generator and a 22 cu. ft. residential refrigerator. Read the results below and see a 22 to 31 cu. ft. residential refrigerator uses between 100 and 300 watts. Solar fully charged 600 amps of lipo before noon. going to bed at 10:00 using 35% of battery overnight.
22 cu ft refrigerator power consumption - Google Search (https://www.google.com/search?q=22+cu+ft+refrigerator+power+consumption&oq=22+cu.+ft.+refrigerator+power&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCAgBEAAYFhgeMgYIABBFGDkyCAgBEAAYFhgeMg0IAhAAGIYDGIAEGIoFMg0IAxAAGIYDGIAEGIoFMgoIBBAAGIAEGKIEMgoIBRAAGIAEGKIEMgoIBhAAGIAEGKIE0gEKMTczNDVqMGoxNagCCLACAQ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
I don't know your install dimensions for your fridge space but would suggest a counter depth fridge.
The shallower depth required for a counter depth model will give you more room at the front of the fridge to walk by and to maneuver when the fridge door is open or closed.
I chose a Bosch counter depth model that has around 20cu. ft. of space. I prefer a side by side over the french door with a drawer freezer. Not much space with a no slide model to work around the freezer door on the french door model when the freezer drawer is pulled out.
I put a screen inside my outside fridge access door. It keeps the bugs out and allows some added ventilation for the fridge. In colder weather I put a insulated cover on the inside of the vent. The outside access door also gives me easy access to the back of the fridge so I can inspect or deal with water lines for the in-door water and ice maker, it also provides easy access for winterizing the water inputs.
I also installed a on/off switch with a light by the kitchen counter so I can easily turn the refrigerator Off or On without having to UN-plug it. I now have plenty of solar and battery capacity to run the residential fridge without power constraints. Before I upgraded the electrical power I found the on/off switch useful for conserving power. Once the fridge is well stocked and up to temp the fridge can sit for quite awhile unplugged and holding temp.
If you can find a fridge that allows you to turn off the heater for defrosting and door gasket heating you can save a lot of power requirements.
We put a Samsung 18 in ours 3 years ago. It died. Will be looking at something else- not Samsung since the reviews are not good
So, what was your investment for the solar and battery power to support the refrigerator? How many days of bad weather can you go? How about other loads such as running the heat at night. Again, just going to a residential fridge does require thought and possible investment.
My fridge uses 11 amps when on and sometimes I see 13 amps and that might be when it is
defrosting. We have been here 5 days and the solar has been more than keeping
up. Today was raining hard this morning and just started again and right now I'm getting 12 amps
out of the solar. 15 minutes ago I was getting over 50 amps as it had brightened up. In the winter I
need to run the generator 2 hours when skiing if it is overcast. I love having the residential fridge,
never have to worry if the coach is level.
Batteries were due and the LiPo batteries were the same cost as new Lifelines. Bought solar panels off Craigslist and one used Victron controller from a forum member and one new controller from Bay Marine. Already had a Xantrex SW 3012 that has custom parameter setting. Aqua Hot was on as we were at 8,000 ft. in the Sierra's Never totaled the cost of everything did my own labor on all, copying Roger's set up. Lynda watches DIRECTV so we start drawing negative amps around 7:30 this time of the year, but the batteries are fully charged from noon on. Can't answer about bad weather but at The Q we did have to run the generator for an hour some days.
I have had a Haier 14.5 cu ft fridge in my coach for going on 6 years now. 1 year of full timing, and now 5 years of occasional use. I leave it powered on 100% of the time. My two complaints are that I wish it only had one freezer and more space in the fridge, and I have still yet to find a great solution for securing all of the doors while underway. I currently use a ratchet strap and a 2x8 with a soft towel to keep all doors closed while travelling. Extremely crude, but it keeps the doors closed....
Haier QJS15HYRFS - 14.5 Cu. Ft. 4 Door Refrigerator | American Freight (https://www.americanfreight.com/pdp/haier-qjs15hyrfs-14-5-cu-ft-4-door-refrigerator/389081?uid=66822299&storeZip=92110&afsc=plad&_mc=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&store=5630&utm_content=LIA&utm_campaign=%5BADL%5D%20%5BShopping%5D%20%5BLIA%5D%20HA%20%2D%20Home%20Appliances%20%5BBoost%5D&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvb-zBhCmARIsAAfUI2sPAoS-kBfNAN5SYUOATyDb6cGySixvPJq4p_FVKDk59fOnhZre4UIaAlZ6EALw_wcB)
I don't have any hard data, but this thing seems very efficient and does a better job of keeping things cold in the fridge than the fridge inside my home.
EVANTWHEELER,
Please refer to my post with pics of my install in the foretravel discussion section " Replacing Fridge" post #48 The company is called Fridge fixer and it works to keeps the doors closed excellent! and looks great...