I just got a 2002 U-295 3620 and the NDR1492 refrigerator stopped working the day I bought it. It is not getting power, as the eyebrow panel is not working (no lights), and it's not running. I checked the breaker (on), and the 5amp fuse in the back on the circuit board (looks ok), accessible from the exterior panel/cover. Are there any usual suspects I can check? I believe the previous owner told me it was replaced by him about four years ago, and he swears it's been working flawlessly. He seems like a totally honest guy and I do believe him.
I got a quick answer on my water issue earlier so I thought I would try my luck before calling a professional.
I'm not sure but check to see if your " salesman" switch, next to the entrance steps is on. Might have something to do with the fridge. Is it working on propane?
The house power switch by the door is on. It does not seem to work without power on propane.
Per drawing B-2126, the fridge 12VDC has a resettable 15 amp breaker in the basement. It's in one of the driver's side bays. In a 2002 there could be a white panel or a grey carpeted panel covering the 12V breakers. You'll need a small pointy thing to manually reset.
ETA - photo of what you're looking for is in this post: Rear slide not deflating (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=47446.msg481127#msg481127)
I checked the 12 volt breaker for the frig in the driver's side bay and it's not tripped. There is a missing 30 amp fuse on the frig motherboard and a present and intact 5 amp next to it. I don't know why one is missing but it seemed to have worked fine without it.
Might be the board was used across different models - 2-way like the one Foretravel uses and 3-way, which would also have a 12V heater element to run off battery. 3-way models would have a 12V power circuit with a higher-amperage fuse.
I'll dig around and see if we have the service manual in the forum Files section or in my old PDF files.
ETA - to confirm that the breaker wasn't tripped, you did try to reset it, correct? Sometimes they look fine but can still be tripped. Also, are there any other 12V things acting up?
Just FYI, the NDR1492 was discontinued more than 15 years ago. Maybe he was referring to replacing the cooling unit? If not, it would have been a used fridge.
I've uploaded the installation manual to the Files section

and parts manual

All it mentions for powering the control board is a continuous 12VDC.
Out of curiosity, is there a "Fridge Defend" or similar aftermarket protection device installed? They do mention a thermal fuse on the 12VDC line for some Dometic models Dometic | Reset | Fuse | Thermo Fuse | Thermal Switch (https://www.arprv.com/dometic-wiring.php)
Thanks for the manual and parts list. I have searched for the thermal switch but cannot find it. There are two wires going to the chimney but are 120v, not 12v. I'll keep looking.
Yes, the 2 going to the chimney are for the 120VAC heating element. You won't have a 12VDC heating element.
The 12VDC is for the control board and ignitor for the LP burner. There's a graphic in the manual that shows where the hardwired 12V supply from the batteries (via the resettable breaker in the basement) connects to the fridge. You might want to meter those connections to make sure you're getting 12VDC there. This is independent of the plug that goes into 120VAC.
Have you checked to see if 12V is getting to the fridge?
The fridge is getting 12v to the terminal block, but not at the 12v fuse on the control board.
Sounds like no 12 VDC is getting to/through the PC board. 12 VDC is needed, irrespective of whether on propane or 120 VAC.
I have a new P-711 board. It looks easy to replace. However, I can't seem to find the 12 V disconnect for the refrigerator, Or for the whole RV for that matter. I'd like to disconnect the 12 V before it mess around with it. I've already unplugged the two 120 V cords.
Also, I have not been able to find a thermal fuse, which others have referenced and I have seen in YouTube videos.
Just disconnect the 12 volt power wire and the terminal block on the refrigerator and tape it to keep it from shorting.
I replaced the circuit board and got power to the frig.
One problem solved but now it does not fire on propane. It was setup with no 12v ignitor wire connected. Would this prevent LP mode from initiating? Also, on the gas valve re-igniter connector, the blue wire is not connected which is labeled +12v to reignitor.
I don't think the previous owner ever dry camped. He mentioned he always had it plugged in.
The ignitor has to have power to make a spark. Without a spark it will not work on propane.
That's what I thought. I will figure out where the ignitor
Is and how to connect it. What about the 12v gas valve/reignitor?
They are the same. 1 wire comes from a black (or white) box and connects to the igniter. This causes a spark. The fridge will run on propane without the igniter connected if you light the burner with a bbq lighter as long as it is not in check mode. This will test if the propane solenoid opens or not. If it doesn't light, it's not getting propane. The igniter has to be connected to the black box to auto ignite and re-ignite if the flame goes out.
Careful with the igniter wire as it has a kick.