Been meaning to do this since we purchased our coach. Peeves me to loose water when it's full for the first several left hand turns. Mr ED had done this prior and I'm coping. All 90 are positioned to not pond water. It either returns to the tank or drains overboard. Making our annual trip back east next week to test how it works.
Why drive with a full tank?
I allways stopped at around 3/4 full.
Johnh
No place to hook up normally were I go
Same with us. I will get around to that mod and Rogers hot water back to the tank mod too. Someday
Yes the hot water return mod is on the list. I really like being able to add hot water to a near freezing water tank. I doubt Ill ever operate in those conditions but have the return is a great idea
My recirculation system says us a lot of water.
So yesterday when I was filling tank I noted that my indicated 3/4 full was exactly at the tank 1/2 full. My full mark was at 3/4 full about 9 inches from the top. I overfilled to about 4 inches from the top
Eventually ill install a sea level system and adjust full to read full minus a couple inches
I fill through my vent line.
I added a similar overflow mod but with a gate valve included. For a similar reason. We used to boondock a lot at a spot near a dump station about a mile away but with a wicked left turn.
Always lost a lot of water on the way back. I never close it 100% though , maybe 80% if need be.... I rarely use the gate valve now but it's there if I need it.
Did the overflow mod 3 years ago and relocated the overflow to the floor behind/under the Manabloc. The overflow is more of a vent. When I boondock fill, at Quartzsite for instance, I fill until water flows out the overflow/vent. When I get back to camp I lost maybe a quart. The mod is pure genius.
I also have a valve in the overflow. Just have to remember to open it before turning the pump on. Depending on how far you go after fill quite a bit.
Our 1989 GV has the fresh water tank up front, under the dash. The vent pipe/overflow is forward and then went down. I raised the hose to create a loop above the tank to alleviate siphoning, then installed a "Y" fitting where the hose came out the "firewall". I then installed a 12V water pump down on the coach frame, with an intake hose end I can insert into our water cans when I need to add water. The output end of the water pump has a hose that is plumbed into the "Y" fitting above the tank. I kept the existing vent line up high and then down to the body strut in front of the passenger tire. A 12V rocker switch controls the on/off feature of the pump.
I learned to keep the vent open so the tank could "burp" the air out as I was filling. I got tired of constantly getting wet when I had to stop and let the tank "burp". Water would gush out and spray all over me.
Now when we start running short of fresh water we take our car and six gallon jugs and go get water. No need to break camp until the black and gray tanks are almost full.
I'd mess that up for sure either sucked empty or blown up full. I wanted to retain an always active vent system. Others have relocated to the bottom of the coach and considered that but left in the wheel well. Hoping to strip and paint the wheel wells and will look at it closer next winter.