I'm getting ready to pull my generator out to replace the end bearing and I have a full tank of fuel. I would like to cap the fuel lines as I remove them to minimize the loss. Does anyone know the exact type of flare fitting I need? The hose is 5/8" OD so I'm assuming 3/8 ID but what is the flare size?
You should need two 3/8" JIC plugs
Mike
Flare fittings come in two types - 45 degree and 37 degree (called AN or JIC fittings). I'm not sure which type would be found on your generator fuel lines. I encountered this subject when I rebuilt my air dryer. I do know the hydraulic lines on our coach use JIC (37 degree) fittings. You can read that discussion in the post linked below:
Air Dryer Bypass Demo (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22007.msg166367#msg166367)
You can buy brass 45 degree flare plugs at most any hardware store like Lowes or HD. Chances are all they will stock are 45 degree fittings. 37 degree flare fittings are not common in homeowner type products.
You can buy 37 degree JIC plugs from any hydraulic shop or online. If you are not sure what size you need, just order a selection of the 2 or 3 smallest sizes. Shouldn't cost much, and you'll have them on hand for future projects. See the photos below of the JIC plug sizes I purchased when working on my hydraulic fans pump.
EDIT: I see Mike already answered your question. I woulda been quicker...but my old fingers (both of them) type slowwwww......
Hi George,
Please take plenty of pics of the bearing replacement project.
Following thread
Excellent responses here and I knew I could count on the Forum for quick and detailed information. I will be buying some JIC plugs. I previously bought them for the steering gear hydraulic lines in preparation for the repair on the gearbox so I know what I'm looking for now. This is a combined project; pulling the generator out to replace the bearing, flushing the generator coolant and replacing all hoses, inspecting the Quiet Box for the generator and repainting any rusted metal and replacing the insulation, wiring in a 50 amp "buddy plug" for easier ability to utilize the generator for power outages at home, removal, testing and cleaning of the generator radiator and fan, cleaning up and painting that compartment, and removal and complete seal kit replacement of the Sheppard M100. I did previously replace the sector shaft seals with the gearbox in place which substantially slowed my leak but I have now discovered that it is leaking at the input seal as well. That was disappointing because I don't think I have ever read here where anyone has specifically had an input shaft seal leak. Oh well, my luck. I will try to photograph and post my progress here for the benefit of others. Wish me luck as I have a deadline to get this done because I'm heading to Colorado in four weeks.
It turns out the generator fuel lines are standard 3/8" 45 degree flare fittings so I was able to get those plugs at the corner hardware store. Generator is out. I don't have access to a forklift at my garage so I had to make a cart to transfer it to. Generator radiator bay is empty, I cleaned it up and primed it with zinc chromate primer and then Rust Oleum gloss black finish. Radiator came back from the shop with a clean bill of health and a new coat of paint. I completely disassembled the blower, took the motor apart to clean it and replace the oil wicks, cleaned and painted the blower assembly and squirrel cage and reassembled all of that. Progress is being made. Sheppard gear box comes out tomorrow.
How long ago did you source that zinc chromate primer? LOL. :))
How long ago did you source that zinc chromate primer? LOL. :))
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It's funny you ask that. I bought that primer in the late 1980's. I keep transferring it to smaller glass canning jars as i use more of it to keep the air in the containers to a minimum. It cures perfectly fine and I wish I could buy it again (easily and inexpensively).
Hi George
Can you take pics of the 4 sides of the gen?
Don't know if you'll be removing the sides of the gen box.
Thanks
Much progress was made yesterday. I was able to remove the steering gear pretty easily, probably due to the fact that I had removed everything from the side radiator basement compartment and the generator. Once I got the gearbox on the bench I realized I was probably in over my head. It's a very complex piece of equipment and the full seal kit contains a dizzying array of seals, o-rings, etc. (more than 30). Plus I was super paranoid about losing the balls out of the gear or messing up the orientation of everything. Since my leak was at the input shaft I decided to only replace the input shaft seals (2 plus an o-ring) and replace the sector shaft seals again (since I had done this before and I had new ones in the kit). When I was bolting the cap back down with the original grade 10.9 M10-1.5 bolts, the bolts just didn't feel right to me. Torque spec is 53-64 ft. lbs. and I wasn't even at 30 when one of the bolts broke. In that moment I was sure that I would be taking this thing to a shop the next day. Fortunately I was able to get the broken bolt out and source new ones at a local hardware store on a Sunday afternoon. Thankfully there are still a few brick and mortars out there. I got the gearbox put back together and was able to take the coach out for a 20 mile test drive and so far (fingers crossed) all appears good. Getting it reinstalled was mostly trouble free with a helper and somehow I was able to keep everything clocked correctly and the bus is tracking straight with the steering wheel centered. I did check the plunger stops and they seem to be way conservative so I'm going to reset the steering stops and readjust the plungers again to get the maximum cut angle as Brett has suggested in another post. Not a lot of pictures since I was working so hard yesterday and trying to make the most of my helper's time. Next up, generator bearing replacement.
Some pictures
More pictures
I replaced the sector shaft seals without removing the box. I am sure it is much easier to replace them on the bench, but it is a big job getting it to the bench.
Agreed. I've done the sector shaft seals twice now. Once while it was installed and once on the bench. On the bench it was a piece of cake. In place the back one was definitely a challenge to get right.
The generator bearing is replaced. The old one really didn't seem bad, just a little rough compared to the new one. Probably would have been good for several more years. A couple of notes for others thinking about doing this; first the end of the generator is very close to the base pan that it sits in so I did have to remove the mounting bolts and pry the generator up to clear the base pan. Second note is that there is a snap ring on the shaft behind the bearing and I did not know this so my bearing separator captured the snap ring as well as the bearing and the snap ring was destroyed during the removal process. I'm not sure what size the snap ring was and its so deformed that it can't be compared to the new one. The new one seemed a little loose to me (I think it was a 1 1/8") and I was unable to find one that fit better so I just went with it. There is also an O-ring in the end plate of the generator in the bushing that captures the outer diameter of the bearing. Mine was torn and I believe it's an 1/8" x 2 1/2" i.d. which I was not able to find. I called Powertech and Jeff said that I don't need it and he never installs them. I'm in the process of cleaning everything up to get it put back together. The insulation in the quiet box is in marginal condition. Some of it's failed and some of it is OK. The original insulation that Foretravel used is 1 3/8" thick overall and very heavy. It consists of an 1/8" sheet of mass loaded vinyl sandwiched by two layers of foam, 1" on one side and 1/4" on the other side. It is an incredibly nice product and unbeatable for sound deadening. It is so much better than most of the products that I have looked at, it's a shame to remove it but some of it is falling apart and the rest of it probably it's days are numbered. I bought some on Amazon that's only 1/2" thick and it's not very impressive. Oh well the generator will most likely be louder. I wonder what type of sound insulation Foretravel is using in the new coaches?
I've got the generator compartment and the radiator compartment all cleaned up and ready for reassembly. More zinc chromate primer and gloss black RustOleum. I cleaned and regreased the roller bearings for the generator pull out and I've got the generator buddy plug installed. Can anyone tell me why the generator label lists it as 66 volts?
If a bearing is a little rough as far as I'm concerned it is shot. Nice work.