I have noticed the Fleetguard WF2071 coolant filter has not been changed since 2019.
My coach does not get alot of miles on it but I would like to change it out for peace of mind.
Is the replacing of it as simple as unscrewing it and replacing it with a new one?
Will I loose substancial fluid that I have to top up?
To I need to purge anything?
Helpful experience would be appreciated.
Peter
You will find a shutoff valve just above the filter. It's a push in and pull out valve.
Peter its a white plastic knob. I understand they do get brittle and they do make a stainless replacement
Peter,
That filter contains like 4 SCA units. You need to test the antifreeze to see how many SCA units the system needs. Now if you are running extended antifreeze you should only need a blank filter. Now if you have been running this filter and extended life antifreeze that don't need SCA that is a different story.
Mike
See the thread linked below for a discussion about the coolant filter shutoff valve on the
C8.3 engine. I don't know if the big Cummins engines in the U320 have exactly the same
troublesome arrangement, but thought I'd bring this up just in case.
C8.3 Water filter shut off valve broken (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=37277)
Mike,
All this was changed before I purchased the coach, so I do not know what coolant was used or even what brand. I do know the PO haD some texaco antifreeze which I used to top up the overflow bottle once.
That is the extent of what I know about the system.
Am I to think I just replace the filter with the same kind?
What color is the coolant? And can you post a picture of the bottle?
Peter,
First off this antifreeze filter really isn't a filter but a chemical block that dissolves over time to treat antifreeze. It doesn't have but a slight flow through it (the filter) to accomplish what makes it do it's job. If you run standard Ethylene glycol you need to take a test strip and check the chemistry of the antifreeze for the SCA strength. Depending on the results will depend on if you need what is referred to 2, 4, 6, or 8 SCA filter. The SCA is a product that helps protect you cylinder liners and from cavitation erosion and the hole system from corrosion.
Now you didn't say if you have extended life antifreeze (OAT) just Texaco and they have all kinds. If you have extended life coolant and have been running a SCA filter I would think about starting over to give yourself a baseline. OAT antifreeze only needs a blank filter with no SCA. I don't know the long term results if you add SCA to OAT antifreeze.
I hope this helps as this is just the tip of the iceberg and don't want to start your head spinning too early in the morning. There are several threads that talk about this chemistry in the past so snoop around in the search for more details.
Mike
Yes, without knowing exactly what coolant chemistry, and if old-generation coolant by testing it, you have you can not reasonably select a replacement filter. It is one of the few items where you just do NOT automatically replace it with the same one you take off.
Coolant filters come with a wide range of SCA (expressed in units).
The important thing is if you have one of the newer generation long-life coolants, the correct filter is a BLANK. A filter blank has the same filtration as other coolant filters, but zero units of SCA. Adding SCA (either by a filter with SCA in it or as a liquid) is BAD for coolant performance. With these newer generation OAT-based coolants, they are basically maintenance free for 6+ years. Yes, the literature suggests a booster be added after three years or so, but (OK, large BUT) that is for OTR trucks clocking hundreds of thousands of miles a year. For RV's it is "add nothing" and test after 6 years at which point it is still likely to be good if the change procedure was good (all old coolant out, etc).
Now if you have the older generation "low silicate coolant with added SCA" you need to get coolant test strips which will determine exactly which filter you need. Be sure the coolant test strips have not expired! Most truck shops will have these in stock and most will be happy to give you one.
If you can contact the previous owner or look through the service records to determine if the spare gallon you got is what was used and when it was changed, let us know exactly what it is and we can offer advice.
Bottom line, if in doubt, change the coolant, going to one of the new generation OAT-based coolants and a filter blank. With a Cummins engine, I would recommend one of the Fleetguard (Cummins) products. If Caterpillar, Caterpillar ELC. Be sure to follow the correct (long but not complicated) procedure for changing coolant. Most owners will do a better job of this than a shop, as it is time consuming and neither they nor you want to pay them most of a day's labor to do it.
Keep in mind, coolant and coolant changes are very cheap compared with engine or radiator damage!
The old style plastic shutoff valve tends to get brittle and break off,mine is stuck in the open position,I have all the parts to repair
but you lose just a little coolant when you change filters to me it's not worth the hassle to change,just change it quickly.
I agree. If you still have the plastic valves, leave them along. Have a "catch bucket" under the filter, the new filter ready to go with coolant on the gasket and do it quickly.
If the plastic valves have been replaced with the metal ones, use them to shut off the coolant flow.
You will not loose much fluid if you do it fast.. I would not try to turn the valve off..
Keith