I received new Koni FSD (8805 1010) shocks last week from FOT to replace the Bilstein's, that may be original. This is my first experience with Koni's and I'd like some advice. They compress with very little force and after 3 days have yet to extend on their own. It takes more effort to extend them manually than to compress them. Either way, they stay where I put them. Wondering if there's some preinstall procedure or black magic that needs to be done. I've done shocks on cars and pickups before and this is a first, typically I've had to fight to compress them in order to get the bottom bolt in. I currently have the coach on blocks to give me more room underneath and I've removed the lower bolts on half the Bilstein's. I have to use more force to compress the installed Bilstein's to get the bolts back in than I do with the new Koni's out of the box.
Am I missing something?
My steer gear was rebuilt (Redhead) about 1000 miles ago, less steering slop now. Installed new Michelin's about 200 miles ago with no abnormal wear. We've put on about 20k since purchased (2015), aside from the reduced steering slop I haven't really noticed a change in the ride. So maybe my Bilstein's don't really need to be replaced?
Thoughts...........
and Thanks!
The Koni shocks are acting as they should.
Dampening on compression= higher effective spring rate= rougher ride. Therefore they do very little dampening on compression.
Dampening on extension helps control bounce without negatively effecting ride quality.
They are not gas shocks, so, no they will not extend on their own.
All is good.
Thanks Brett! I also spoke with Chad at FT, he confirmed the Koni's are acting as they should. I hope this helps someone in the future So no more excuses, I guess I need to get out there and do it.
Thanks again,
Jerry
Here's a write up from
@tothetrail with some tips on the swap out Replaced Shocks with Koni FSD's (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=31000.msg271207#msg271207)
Thanks Michelle! Working alone it took about 5 hours this afternoon to get all 8 off. An 1-1/8 socket, wrench and 3/4 drive impact and extension was all I needed. I attempted to use a breaker bar but there's no room. I did use PB Blaster yesterday and left it sit. Thankfully I didn't have to remove anything else to get them off but I did contemplate removing the rear forward air bags. These were the hardest to remove. I have the coach body lifted and on blocks which gives a little more room to work. Based on the records that came with the coach and FOT, who did a lot of the work over the years, the Bilstein's appear to be original (26 years, 162k miles).
Tomorrow will be the test to see what it takes to get the Koni's installed.
Is there a torque for the nuts?
You're welcome! I found the post while researching your shock length/extension question.
You might ping/PM Jennifer (tothetrail) if she doesn't chime in before that to see if there's a torque spec.
I really don't remember ever finding a definitive answer for this. I think we just tightened them very snug.
I've seen some references of 200 to 250 ft pounds, but I'm really not certain on this.
Does the first photo in the first post make anyone else feel uneasy? My (off topic) thought (since you asked) is: steel safety stands would be...safer. I know other members will disagree...saying (or thinking to themselves) that wood blocks are fine in that application. It's just that I have seen wood blocks, under compression, split unexpectedly along the grain. I, personally, feel safer using steel supports. But that's just me, and of course every coach owner should do what they think is best. End of sermon.
Safety Stand Placement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=38814)
I used the German unit of measure "gutentight" with a bit of blue lock tight. It's probably safe to just hammer those bad boys on too if you're worried about it. You probably won't have the coach the next time they need to be replaced.
3/4"-10 125ftlbs for a grade 2 315ft lbs for a grade 8.
I'm not to worried about the torque as I am that the bottom bolt is not double sheared leading to failure by tearing the lower tab off. When I have the shocks off mine, I will be double shearing them at that time. Semi duplicate tab in black circle and install in red position. Will need spacers for shocks to clear tab. Also a great excuse to do brake pin cleaning so I'll remove wheels to facilitate shock change.
I went with 150# where I could get to the nuts/bolts with the torque wrench. For the 4 that I wasn't able to get to with the torque wrench (the impact I used was pretty close to 150#) I went with "gutentight" as Elliot stated. All installed in about 6 hours,+/- 12 hours total without removing anything including bags or skirts. Hindsight - it would have been smarter for me to do the shocks when I did the bags four year ago or last month when I had the tire replaced.
Steel vs. oak - Either way, this is personal judgement and how lucky you're feeling. Self included. Supporting a coach vertically on 8 2"x 2" receiver tubes might be strong but you only have 2" surface area at each end. You also need to consider the stability of this setup if you're away from home and your coach is not on a flat surface or if the coach is rocked while your under it. The oak blocks I use are 3"H x 4"W x 9"L double stacked gives me 6" height and very stable. In an emergency I'd be ok with using 2" cargo straps around the frame tubes and moving the coach. I would not use pine or other soft woods though. I carry sixteen of them in a milk crate. Also, every flatbed truck on the highway uses wood to support cargo heavier than our coaches.