Hi I'm new here sorry for the already probably covered 100 times but I'm having a hard time with the search feature. I just bought a 96 u270 2 weeks ago and the day I picked it up the house batteries had died from previous owner leaving the furnace fan on. I don't think the batteries recovered, drove it home 7 hours and haven't had strong batteries since. Anyways, am I better off upgrading to these AGM batteries for $379 each ( Renogy Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12 Volt 200Ah, 3% Self-Discharge Rate, 2000A Max Discharge Current, Safe Charge Most Home Appliances for RV, Camping, Cabin, Marine and Off-Grid System, Maintenance-Free Amazon.com: Renogy Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12 Volt 200Ah, 3% Self-Discharge... (https://a.co/d/0kG2Aq4) ) or sticking with the standard 8d Duracell batteries for $242 each? Do I need to change he the factory inverter or I go with the AGM? I'm reading the agms are better suited for these coaches from half of.the threads I find and the other half says go with lithium, however this is our first coach and I want to be sure we enjoy it before dropping 3-4k on a battery upgrade.
I would not go with standard lead acid batteries. I would go with either AGM or lithium. My preference is lithium, but I understand your point about the cost. There is a good chance the inverter/charger you have will work with either AGM or lithium (my lithium batteries work with an AGM charge profile), but you would need to check with the manufacturer or someone familiar with the exact inverter/charger you have to be certain.
These AGM will serve you well. Be aware they appear to not be size-identified as 8D, height, width, weight AH, measure to be little smaller and lighter than 8D and the terminals are bolt and not automotive posts, so cable end adapters may be needed. Cost is bit lower than many 8D, which is okay and maybe inline with smaller size. Recommended charge voltages are very good with bulk & absorption at 14.4-14.8v and float at 13.6-13.8v. Not sure what "Initial current less-than 60 amps means. Renogy is a high-quality product name with lots of different RV products.
I have no problem putting new ends on the cables or adapters if that's better, just worried if the charger will work. I have a heart interface freedom 20 inverter, not sure where the charger is. 1996 U270
Go to the bottom of the link. Size and weight are listed 127 lbs.
The Xantrex Freedom 20 is an inverter-charger. The 3 stage charger in built into the unit. NOTE: it needs to be programmed to work properly. Programming was done by dip switches on older units and from the remote panel on newer ones.
On your coach it is located in the basement in bay just behind the fuel tank. It will be mounted on the celling drivers side. Look for a black box.
Mike
No problem using original Heart Freedom 20. With battery recommended charge voltage ratings, just set Freedom for flooded wet acid, which is the highest voltage charge profile. Settings are on the inside charge remote monitor panel. Charge/invertor is probably mounted to streetside bay ceiling. Keep in mind that the Heart Freedom is modified sine wave and after a lot of years in service, they often suddenly fail, so you would be wise to have a replacement plan researched out. Many have used Magnum MS-2812 model. As with all chargers and inverters it is always better to not push them near their rated capacity, so larger then needed usually gives these devices a longer life.
Should I replace it now? And if so, any recommendations?
Most find that Pro-active maintenance is better. You will be able to install a new charge/inverter yourself.
Heart freedoms internally have "points" that make the connection for the power output. Over years of use the "points" pit. The reduced contact area can lower the inverters power output. Your 96's heart freedom 20 is too early to have a battery temp input to not overcharge or undercharge the batteries based on their exact temp. Late 97's with freedom serial numbers above 100k have the temp input. Float voltage can vary by more than .5 volts between hot and cold temps.
Agms normally have their amp hour capacity reduced slowly in use if not totally recharged to 100% every use. That is very generator time consuming. To go from 50% to 85% takes x amount of gen run time. To go from 85% to 100% can take the same amount of gen run time.
Thats why Foretravel installed in every unicoach east Penn(MK) gel batteries. Twice the cycle life and can be partially recharged then used without affecting their service life as much.
The 28 model years later inverter/chargers and batteries will greatly add to your enjoyment when using your coach.
Versus a less enjoyable experience lessens your decision to keep your coach.
A set of AGM's would get you started although with a limited investment. 4-5 years with slowly reduced amp hours after the first couple of years.
Power pole to power pole use lowers the batteries wear as they are 100% every day.
Gels and a ms2812 with a temp shunt with last more than a decade in normal use. Plus retain more capacity for more years lowering gen run time.
Visione in Kentucky used to have a 97 u320 that had a top rack allowing 3 8d batteries to be installed.
If you 'get into" this rv lifestyle like a lot of us here have a top quality 12volt system and solar panels can almost eliminate gen running in mild temps.
Quiet enjoyment of nature is a pleasure. I went through many years of mods to end up with a reliable fully automatic charging system that charges both battery banks.
The AGM's will get you started ok although.
Good luck with your new to you coach
Bob
Agree completely.
Battery technology has grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years. We would consider AGMs for the lower price point and LiFePO4 if budget allows and usage dictates. Gels might have been the choice of Foretravel decades in the past, but remember - they sourced batteries based on what they could get locally in Nac at the time, and things have changed a lot in recent years. We haven't run gels since 2007-ish, all have been AGM, and our next set will likely be LiFePO4.
So am I better off looking for gel batteries? Will this be a significant cost increase?
I'm starting to think I bought the wrong coach, issues after not even a week of ownership. I was planning on spending more on something with a large solar setup but thought we'd start with setting more budget friendly, unfortunately I've gotten a sour taste already.
Thank you so much for the informative replies!
AGMs are much more readily available and I would not look for gels. Sources are very limited and there are no real advantages these days.
What a Foretravel is is the "box" not the fabrics or paint job or how many TV's. The structure itself. Fore family long ago built wagons in Texas.
This can be an expensive hobby. You probably paid ten cents on the dollar these cost new?
The idea that a 28 year old mechanical device could require parts and upgrades is almost a certainty.
Repeat rv buyers learned to ask about the prospective coaches construction and wiring and plumbing.
90% of current coaches have the carpeting under their cabinets. Not laid and stretched. Stops squeaks and adjusts the cabinets to fit the headliner. And/or they use gimp molding at the cabinet tops to hide unevenness.
Your coach is laid and stretched. No gimp. Perfect top to bottom. Insulated floor. Insulated compartment doors. Insulated storage compartment floors. A raceway under the floor to run new wiring and replace old hoses.
Ultimate construction in many ways. Thats why so many here have even older Foretravels than you. There are almost zero 96 anything out there. Structure fell apart. Poor wiring. Squeaks and rattles. Wind noise. Poor steering and brakes.
You bought the experienced rv'er coach. You can repair and update it and probably get another 20 years out of it or more.
That's why a lot of us are here. The systems are fixable. Nothing wrong with the "box"
Larken, don't make any quick decisions. You must do your own research on batteries before buying any.
It just depends on what your usage will be. Good luck on whatever you decide.
FYI, when replacing Freedom 20 chargers, know the OEM 12 battery cables can be recovered by opening up the Freedom case and UNBOLTING the cable end attached to internal components which may destroy some of the inside components, but you then don't have to get new cables. Freedom 20 had permanent mounted 12v cables but their spade terminal cables are removable with above information.
Replacing with Lithium is not much more expensive. I replaced my 4 5-year old 6V Trojan T-105's with 1 200ah Lithium battery (8D size) 3 years ago. Added a second 2 years ago. For 400ah (with built in BMS) it was $1400 total delivered. The 2 are only HALF the weight of the 4 Trojans (or one 8D AGM). Switched to Victron for the Inverter/Charger (at Quartzsite) and Victron solar controller. With the 960W solar on the roof, I haven't had to worry at all.
Just my input.