All of a sudden my Dashboard Level System Light is not going off. After pulling in the slide, the dinger kept going and the dash Level light stayed on.
I am able to put it in gear to drive, slide pins are locked in, bladder inflates and deflates fine. Coach raises to ride height and the green Drive Light comes on at the HWH panel. I fully raised and lowered the air bags, put it on Auto-Level and all good.
The dash Level Light and the dinger just stay on? Any suggestions ?
Run the slides back out and in again.
Did the slide in and out a few times, no change.
I had a similar issue. While leaving an rv park. I pulled over and set the parking brake. Hit the HWH reset. Waited about 30 seconds and hit the travel mode button. Waited for a minute and drove on. Problem solved.
If that doesn't help I would suspect a limit switch has gone bad on one of the slides.
Does the 2001 have lock pins? There could be a sensor on those that has got jostled out of alignment,
It may also be the slide in sensor which on my 04 had a sensor mounted on a bracket that interacted with a magnet embedded in the top of the slide box. You can see that bracket behind the slide valance, my 04 needed that re-aligned once or twice.
It does have the lock pins, I was thinking about something out of alignment up there. Just was hoping not to remove the valance, it's a real pain . But..............
I think I'll try to find the reset switch first and see what that does.
Thanks to all, I'll keep plugging away at it.
Find the HWH manual for your coach and review the indicator lights (slide in/out and lock pins) that are in the HWH boxes in your basement. You should be able to see them go on and off as the room is extended and retracted. See if they give you a clue on where to start trouble shooting.
Rich
If a reset doesn't fix it I would unplug the connectors on the HWH control box for a few minutes then reconnect and see what you have.
Ended up having to remove the valance, sure wish they would have made that thing at least 2 pieces if not 3!
Problem was the upper rear proximity switch. Put a flat magnet in its place and the issue went away.
After looking at the rear compared to the front, noticed the rear was set much much higher. Then it made sense to me why sometimes the slide would have to be cycled to get the pins down. Reset the sensors to 1/4" front and rear and everything now works perfect.
Hardest part was wrestling that dang valance back in place. It's almost impossible for one person, but I did get it. Holding it up with neck and shoulders while trying to get those screws started is not a fun thing.
Thank you to all for you suggestions and assistance.
If anyone happens to have a part number for that slide pin proximity switch, please pass it on. I'd like to add one to my parts bin.
I have the number for the location sensor that enables the lock pin to extend. Fourdayoff Jim has the p/n for the reed switch in the lock pin that identifies the pin location. It's in the coach and I'll get it in a week or so when my knee is working better. I've even added earth magnets on top of the slide to trigger the switch. They are never close enough to the bladder seal to drag. What a wonky system. Makes more sense once you understand what they were trying to accomplish, however it flows like a bunch of workaround ideas pushed together to work.
I'm surprised that you were able to go to ride height and get in gear to drive with that locking pin not indicating that it was engaged.
My 2001 would let me do that regardless of what was wrong and whether or not the override switch was flipped on. It let me do whatever I wanted. Could have driven down the interstate at 80 with the slide out and bags fully aired up in "raise" mode if I wanted. I always suspected the control box was whacky but I had it serviced and inspected at HWH and they said it was right as rain.
In the future, if you take off the top valence, I recommend - Add two or three 1"x2"x6" blocks to the back of it. If you position them correctly, you can lift up the valence, set it in place and then it will stay there while you put in the screws.
Rich
Sorry I do not have the part # for the reed switch. When I bought my coach I got a deep discount on the coach due to the L/R slide not working. The previous owner could not get it fixed in Montana with his "tractor mechanic". While waiting for my call back from HWH I traced it down to the magnet inside the hydraulic lock actuator had been broken into pieces and the reed switch could not read where the magnet was. This was the upper rear actuator. Went down to the local hardware store and the owner took me over to the clearance table and we found a refrigerator hook magnet that was a exact match. installed that and it's worked fine since. KOW. When I finally got my call back from HWH I told him what I found and he asked me to come to work for them, lol sure. This took quite some time, hours and hours to track down. Anyway long winded story but for $3.00 avoided costly coach bucks. Jim.