I have noticed a significant decrease in power while climbing hills, now that we're out of the flat lands. I drained the sight bowl in my pre filter and definitely had some algae at the bottom. I shocked the tank with some biocide this morning and am going to replace the fuel filters this afternoon. How long should I go before replacing the filters again? Should I run the engine for 30 minutes and replace? Or put a full tank through them first? I'm just looking to clean out as much as I can before I hit the road again. I won't really know if I "fixed" it until I'm climbing hills and I have wolf creek pass staring me in the face on Sunday so I'm looking to get as much power back as I can before that. I'm putting in a new air filter too for good measure.
Not sure if I picked up bad fuel somewhere or just created the problem myself. It's been humid everywhere we've been the last couple months and we've sat for 3-4 weeks at a time so it could very well be the latter. Should have treated with maintenance doses of biocide but you know... brain shuts off certain parts when life gets busy.
On a side note, I'm surrounded by high-end coaches at this fancy KOA we're at in Central City... will take great satisfaction in being "that guy" working on my old rig next door to them ;D
There's a service called "Fuel Polishing". Basically the service person pumps the fuel out of your tank, runs it through a filter system, then back into your tank. Often available as a mobile service that will come to your location. Might look into that as a option. No idea about cost or effectiveness - we've never had it done.
Fuel polishing is very effective.
"Shocking" the tank with some biocide may kill the algae or whatever is in there, but it does not remove it. You will still have the dead stuff that needs to be filtered out. What would be nice is if there were differential pressure gauges across the filters so you could see if they are getting restricted. This is common practice for those of us that manage emergency generators where fuel is often stored in underground tanks and can last for years. Sometimes even have multiple filter trains so as a set loads up we can switch over while it is still running.
As you are now traveling you fuel will be getting consumed, and the quantity is so low polishing is not really cost effective unless you make your own set up. You need to know what the pickup inside the tank is, screen or not, and if the debris is bad the tank needs to be cleaned or replaced. The lines and stuff are also contaminated so the stuff will keep coming.
You are also making a guess or assumption that your power loss is fuel quality or supply related. It may not be. There are so many things that can go wrong that will reduce power. Anything from exhaust brakes, to turbos, injectors, etc. can cause power loss. The biggies are when parts of the engine reach the point that major service is needed. Besides miles, how many hours, especially unloaded hours are on the engine and how many cold start cycles? No way to know that one.
Also, I believe you have 2 filters. The primary water separator and larger debris catcher and a final filter for the main pump and injectors. This is usually in the 2-micron range. Be sure you are checking both. that final one is the one more likely to shut you down.
Elliot, if you can find it near you, or able to get a delivery, you might try Power Service Clear-Diesel.
I picked up some bad diesel in Iowa last year to the point that the coach was almost shutting down. I poured in a full 80 ounce bottle into a full tank. Changed the filters and let it sit for 2 days until we were ready to go. It seemed to do the trick as we didn't have any more issues and haven't had any since. I'm sure that there are other products, but this one worked for us.
The filter in my IH is one that lets you look and see the performance of the fuel filter. If you look at the cover, the higher the fuel is up the filter side, the more the filter is used up. If the fuel gets to the top, need to change filter real soon. Picture attached has it upside down. the picture in the oval has it the right side up. It has a valve on the bottom of it where you can drain the water \ fuel out if too much water or fuel to replace the element. Really neat filter. I don't know why they don't use this filter on the newer coaches.
https://a.media-amazon.com/images/I/71TD9pISq0L._AC_SX679_.jpg
We had a 1984 Foretravel with the 3208. On a trip on the way home the engine shut down in the mountains of Tennessee. I changed the primary filter as it was a glass filter and I could see it had debris, algae in it. I had to crack open several injector lines 3/4 wrench as I remember. Nancy cranked it up front and pretty soon it started first on a couple of cylinders. I tightened the lines and all 8 were hitting. I drove about 250 miles and was on an exit and it shut off again. This time it was the secondary filter. Used the hand primer pump and again cracked a couple of lines and Nancy cranked it up. After that I always carried at least 2 sets of filters and I used Caterpillar filters only. It would be very difficult to polish the fuel on that coach due to how the fuel inlet pipe is located. The 3208 will not be the first one up the hill, but it will get there even though it might be 20 mph.
Also keep fuel tank full to lower chance to accumulate humidity.
I've decided to run one new set of filters between here and salida and when we stop for brunch tomorrow with friends I'll throw another set in quick in the parking lot. I picked up a couple more spare sets this morning just so I'm not without now that I've used my backups.
I realize this may not be the issue, but gotta look at the easy stuff first. when I hear hooves I try to assume horses first, not zebras. I'll keep you guys updated ^.^d fingers crossed this is the issue.
One worthy upgrade to fuel system has been replacing the primary with a Davco mounted in engine compartment. It allows you to visually check fuel quality, air bubbles,contamination, and instantly determine the condition of filter. Filter changes are very easy as well.
(edit. Just noticed that the filter Turbojack described is a Davco.}
Fuel Pro® - Davco (https://davco.com/fuel-pro/)
I lost power when servicing the OE primary filter . It was the fancy Racor thing with clear bowel and a bunch of O rings. The sealing rings were passing fluid- air and I had bubbles in the line. Ran poorly, hard stating .
Parts were slow or NA for the Racor and I installed a generic 3/4 16 adapter with a gm pre filter.
You can read the filter number in the pic . Wix
I asked Wix about flow and was told that 3/4-16 at 10 microns will flow over 70 gph.
The coach ran much better with a new set of filters. We climbed from 7000ft to 10000' no problem on the 70. We did a nice steady 45-50mph the whole way up and pre-filter change we were climbing at 25mph in second. ^.^d ^.^d
Just threw a new set of filters in at the Walmart here in Salida and will be interested to see if there's any noticeable change.