Foretravel Owners' Forum

Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: Res777 on August 26, 2024, 07:10:41 pm

Title: Drag Link
Post by: Res777 on August 26, 2024, 07:10:41 pm
I have an 08' Foretravel Nimbus. I had it in for fluid service at Cummins Coach Care in Spokane. The tech showed me where the rubber boots were just about gone on the greasable joints on both ends. He said the drag link has been discontinued. Can you just replace the greaseable joints? The rest is just a steel bar. Has anyone done this before? Is it a big job that requires special tools? I would think you could just keep putting grease in to keep the dirt out.
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 26, 2024, 07:25:58 pm
If the ends are still good (no slop) you can just instill new boots. 
Here is there part number L24VC0109
If you want to install new ends they are readily available

Mike
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: bbeane on August 26, 2024, 07:54:37 pm
The boots have been gone on mine for years. Just keep them greased good.
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: Geodmann on August 26, 2024, 08:42:57 pm
I would like to replace my grease boots on the drag link and the tie rod.  Anyone done this that can speak to how difficult it is to get the joints separated and what tie rod separator tool works for these joints?
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 26, 2024, 09:42:48 pm
1. Anyone done this that can speak to how difficult it is to get the joints separated
2.  what tie rod separator tool works for these joints?

1. Done several and it isn't too bad. You don't need a pit but you will need to raise coach up and block.
2. Now I'm not joking or pulling your leg but the tool of choice is a #4 hammer and small pry bar. Once you remove the cotter pin and loosen castle nut almost off (don't remove the nut yet as if you do you may need a dentist appointment) take a small pry bar and put between the 2 bars. Take your hammer and give the joint a good solid whack on the female joint side. Done right one whack and the taper will release. Now take off the castle nut off and you still have all your teeth.

Mike
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: WS6_Keith on December 09, 2024, 11:20:02 pm
So this is the boot y'all are talking about, right?  If so, do you know the torque spec for the castle nut upon replacement?

Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: T and M Long on December 10, 2024, 03:03:22 pm
I just replaced both ends on my drag link  ( front one had some slop) both boots were horrible). I used a 2 jaw puller to get the one on off the pitman arm. The back one I used a bottle jack to apply pressure and whacked it with a hammer. I believe the torque is 160 ft lbs. I would trust what Mike says. I got the parts from find it parts about $55.00 each for the ends.  And yes that picture is the drag link connected to the pitman arm.
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: T and M Long on December 10, 2024, 03:07:26 pm
I got the part numbers on this old thread here on the forum. The parts were right for my 2004.
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: WS6_Keith on December 11, 2024, 02:39:28 pm
I verified that mine are 1.25", but do you remember if the front one (on the pitman arm) is the RH or LH thread?  I only need the one.
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: T and M Long on December 13, 2024, 08:05:53 am
I'm sorry I don't remember.
Tom
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: John44 on December 13, 2024, 10:25:50 am
Why not change both ends,the one your not changing can't be too far from failing,it's been on there as long as the bad one.
Title: Re: Drag Link
Post by: T and M Long on December 13, 2024, 12:08:50 pm
Both of my boots were bad. But I had some slop in the front one. So I changed them both.  You can just change the rubber boot.
Tom