My step cover decided it doesnt want to come out.
Held open strongly, cant pull it out by hand unless all air is gone.
Assume someone has had this before.
Thx
Likely the Norgren valve that operates it
Norgren Valves (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41908.0)
or the solenoid that operates it
Step Cover fuse? (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=43845.0)
Has anyone done away with the air operated system for the step cover?
Seems 12v actuators would do the job.....maybe.
A quick search didn't bring anything up.
Know that the piston that moves the step slide is in a difficult location and understanding that the piston is always under pressure in closed and open position, some have made a mod to remove all piston air pressure after moving slide to open or closed position, which can also allow easy manual step slide movement if desired.
Step cover (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=44052.msg445442#msg445442)
Step and passenger slide platform manifolds (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=48070.msg485972#msg485972)
The mod also stops air leaks from the cylinder when removing the air pressure.
The way the step slide mod works:
Mod-switch on to pressurize single cylinder
Open or Close slide with OEM-switch
Mod-switch off to release all pressure in cylinder
Leave OEM-switch in Close position to leave OEM-air valve de-energized
Step slide can always be manually moved when Mod-switch is off
Found this step slide & outside step writeup and label with instructions on how to use new step-slide mod:
Outside step and inside step slide cover are moved with dual-action pneumatic cylinders.
Cylinders are controlled with 3-way pneumatic 12-volt valves located on the outside back of the bottom step.
There are separate valves for inside slide and outside step. Each valve has an input air line and output adjustable exhaust port.
Two other air lines on the valve go to either ends of cylinder to either extend or collapse cylinder.
12-volts move inside of valve to force air to one end of cylinder. Removing 12-volts allows inside of valve to spring return to force air to other end of cylinder.
When one air line is pressurized, the other air line is exhausted to the exhaust port.
Exhaust port is adjustable to slow return of cylinder to prevent slamming in either direction.
Removing and cleaning exhaust port can improve actions.
You could put your own 12-volts to a valve to see if parts move.
Valve is easily disassembled to clean and get a sticking valve to move freely.
Some have a step switch to the right of driver's knee on center console. Switches are usually under a cover to prevent accidental movement.
I don't think there are step lights, so your step switch could operate the step slide pneumatic valve.
If you have two switches to operate step slide, each switch is 3-wire single-pole double-throw.
One switch has 12-volts to center pole. Other switch has center wired to pneumatic valve.
The top & bottom poles are wired to each other, so either switch will close or open 12-volts to valve.
Outside step is powered by ignition through door magnetic reed switch. When ignition is on and door closed, 12-volts is supplied to step pneumatic valve.
Opening door or turning off ignition allows valve to spring return.
Some have modified circuit to allow step to also close when ignition is off and door closed
I've read most of the threads on the step well sliding cover and can't seem to find an answer to my dilemma. My step cover has worked since I got my coach up until a couple of months ago. I don't use it often so it's difficult to pinpoint exactly when it stopped working. What is does now is; when either switch is flipped, the step cover moves ever so slightly and cocks a little bit to the side as if it's trying to move but it's being physically restrained. In order to troubleshoot this further I releived all of the air pressure and removed the Norgren valve. I went inside to manually slide the cover closed and it won't budge. It rocks a little side to side but won't move in or out even the slightest amount. It's acting like the cylinder is seized up. I'm looking for other's experience on this and speculation on what the problem might be or next steps to take. All I can think of is to remove the cylinder for closer inspection but I'm convinced that in order to do that I would need to remove the HWH auxilliary air tank and that does not look like a simple job either. On a related note, I've read that the Norgren valves are in one position with no 12 volts present and shuttle to the other position with 12 volts present. Is this to say that they are ALWAYS consuming power when in one position or the other? I would assume that the entry step would be down with the Norgren valve deenergized (aka: ignition off) but I wouldn't guess which position of the step well cover required constant 12 volts.
Could captive air in cylinder is keeping you from moving it manually? Remove both air lines from Norgren to the cylinder to be sure both ends of single cylinder are not under pressure Norgren is easy to clean out. Also some have put a 3way solenoid on air line to Norgren to relieve ALL cylinder pressure after it moves in either direction. Also find slide switch position that removes 12v. Air cylinder does not need pressure after moving it, and air pressure will damage this hard to remove cylinder over time.