Title: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Michelle on October 17, 2024, 03:35:24 pm
Post by: Michelle on October 17, 2024, 03:35:24 pm
aka - when you don't know what coolant is actually in there and you need to do a cleansing flush and fill...
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: wolfe10 on October 17, 2024, 04:01:15 pm
Post by: wolfe10 on October 17, 2024, 04:01:15 pm
Yup, brings back memories of past coolant changes!
And a time of confused Walmart clerks when you check out with a 2 grocery carts full of distilled water. I just said my wife was spoiled and would only bathe in distilled water.
Talk about a "deer caught in the headlights".
And a time of confused Walmart clerks when you check out with a 2 grocery carts full of distilled water. I just said my wife was spoiled and would only bathe in distilled water.
Talk about a "deer caught in the headlights".
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: Michelle on October 17, 2024, 04:14:49 pm
Post by: Michelle on October 17, 2024, 04:14:49 pm
I suspect our Walmart clerks have seen just about everything at this point. I did have one other shopper ask me if the water was on sale.
The only other thing in my cart was a small tin of anchovies.
The only other thing in my cart was a small tin of anchovies.
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: Geodmann on October 17, 2024, 05:16:57 pm
Post by: Geodmann on October 17, 2024, 05:16:57 pm
I was fortunate to have a friend with a whole house reverse osmosis system and also happened to have 6-21 gallon RV fresh water tanks. Filled them at his house and had all the water I could wish for. I flushed the system until I was exhausted and then called it a day with plenty of water left over. I was trying to flush until the water was clear but you can never get rid of that pink tint. Also if you don't have the vacuum purge and fill tool that DSD turned me on to you definitely would do well to get that. It worked perfectly for me every time filling the system with no air pockets whatsoever.
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: Michelle on October 17, 2024, 05:27:14 pm
Post by: Michelle on October 17, 2024, 05:27:14 pm
Also if you don't have the vacuum purge and fill tool that DSD turned me on to you definitely would do well to get that. It worked perfectly for me every time filling the system with no air pockets whatsoever.
We do not have this intriguing tool. Off to search the forum.
And purchased. Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW39HJS)
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: steve on October 17, 2024, 06:02:31 pm
Post by: steve on October 17, 2024, 06:02:31 pm
@Geodmann Did the vacuum fill tool end up pulling any more fluid out or was there still ~4 gallons entrapped in the block / heater hose? What vacuum did you pull to, 25? and do you remember how long it took to pull that vacuum?
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: Geodmann on October 17, 2024, 08:15:28 pm
Post by: Geodmann on October 17, 2024, 08:15:28 pm
So the radiator petcock does a pretty good job of emptying the system and when I put the vacuum tool on it would pull a vacuum very quickly and only a little more liquid would come out the vacuum hose. I would acheive a vacuum of around 26 on the gauge and that's about as low (high) as it would go. I'm used to working with refrigeration where we routinely acheive vacuum of around 500 microns so I know this is no where near absolute vacuum but for our purposes it's good enough and most importantly I had zero airlocks so I had confidence that I was pumping coolant immediately and the thermostat was immersed in coolant too. Once I started siphoning the new coolant in it would easily pull in around 10 gallons or so before I ran out of vacuum. So Brett's advice was perfect because I assume my system capacity to be 16 gallons and I would pull in 8 gallons of concentrate and then distilled (reverse osmosis) water. On my last fill, the refractometer shows my blend to be perfect. Regarding the coolant, there's a lot of opinions and mystery surrounding the choices but after reading just about every coolant thread on this forum and following the sage advice of one forum member I decided to go with Fleetguard compleat. Found out that it's just about impossible to find locally and surprisingly even Cummins doesn't carry the concentrate. Forunately I got a great deal from Find It Parts and I can't say enough good things about them. About the vacuum tool, I'm sure you will have great results with yours but I went with the UView 550000 Airlift for only a little more money and man does that thing scream solid brass quality. Absolutely love it and I also used it on my generator when I flushed the coolant in that.
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: steve on October 18, 2024, 09:36:56 pm
Post by: steve on October 18, 2024, 09:36:56 pm
Thank you George.
Sounds like this tool will make the job go easier, especially since it will several rounds of emptying/filling. I watched a couple of videos but those were for small volume systems, glad to hear this can still get the job done on our 16G one.
We are also using Fleetguard compleat. After reading all of the posts and considering we don't really know what the current concoction of fluids in the system, this seemed like the best choice for us. We found some concentrate at an OK price and free shipping.
Started the first emptying today and also removed the surge tank for a spa treatment, lots of surface rust, plus lots more on the back where you can't see it until its removed.
Sounds like this tool will make the job go easier, especially since it will several rounds of emptying/filling. I watched a couple of videos but those were for small volume systems, glad to hear this can still get the job done on our 16G one.
We are also using Fleetguard compleat. After reading all of the posts and considering we don't really know what the current concoction of fluids in the system, this seemed like the best choice for us. We found some concentrate at an OK price and free shipping.
Started the first emptying today and also removed the surge tank for a spa treatment, lots of surface rust, plus lots more on the back where you can't see it until its removed.
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: dsd on October 18, 2024, 11:44:56 pm
Post by: dsd on October 18, 2024, 11:44:56 pm
We do not have this intriguing tool. Off to search the forum.
And purchased. Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW39HJS)
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: Geodmann on October 19, 2024, 10:53:54 am
Post by: Geodmann on October 19, 2024, 10:53:54 am
I also took the opportunity to clean up and paint the coolant tank. When I reinstalled it I used longer screws and 1/4" spacers to create a gap behind the tank so that future corrosion would not be a problem. I like to use Rust Oleum gloss black in all of these applications because it goes on thick and the gloss finish repels moisture. I included a picture of the Air Lift tool in use as well. One big advantage with this tool is that our coolant tanks are in a difficult location to pour antifreeze into so the tool makes it super easy to draw it in under vacuum. I wonder if you are also replacing your coolant hoses. As I discussed in a previous forum thread, I was unable to locate the required number of "hump hose" couplings because Gates has stopped making them. I also was frustrated by the reducing elbow hose at the transmission cooler. The orientation of the cooler and the metal coolant pipe was not correct and the hose had to be a bit twisted and distorted to fit. I'll be interested in your feedback if you're replacing these hoses also.
Title: Re: Dedicating this photo to Brett
Post by: Geodmann on October 19, 2024, 10:59:02 am
Post by: Geodmann on October 19, 2024, 10:59:02 am
Also worth noting that if you look closely at my overflow bottle, the factory did a poor job of installing it with the typical square head "multi-purpose" screws that they use for everything else and either they overtightened them or time and vibration took its toll. I knew there were cracks in the mounting flanges but I figured it was OK. A few months later my tank started leaking at two of those locations because the cracks had propogated into the tank. Fortunately FT parts had the new tank and I believe it is also available though USP Plastics.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 19, 2024, 11:19:46 am
Post by: steve on October 19, 2024, 11:19:46 am
I like the idea of using some spacers behind the surge tank, that area really trapped some moisture and caused quite a bit of rust on the two mating surfaces. I did a flap wheel finish and it's now relaxing in a bath of Evapo-rust. I have some POR15 on hand so will finish it with that. I also have that Rust-Oleum epoxy paint, good stuff as well.
Our overflow tank is also held on with square drive screws, I did not see any flange cracks but will double check, the right side is not really visible so will have to take a cell phone pic. After I got the surge tank out I was thinking to myself, boy I'm glad I don't have to get that overflow tank out LOL
Yup, on occasion I've poured more on the ground that in the tank.
Our overflow tank is also held on with square drive screws, I did not see any flange cracks but will double check, the right side is not really visible so will have to take a cell phone pic. After I got the surge tank out I was thinking to myself, boy I'm glad I don't have to get that overflow tank out LOL
One big advantage with this tool is that our coolant tanks are in a difficult location to pour antifreeze into so the tool makes it super easy to draw it in under vacuum
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: dsd on October 19, 2024, 11:31:41 am
Post by: dsd on October 19, 2024, 11:31:41 am
So the vacuum tool does not have an adapter for the large cap on the pressure tank. I simply removed the cap and placed a tyrap under the negative pressure valve on the cap to hold it open. Reinstall the cap and hook the vacuum tool to the overflow hose connection to service the engine. When you have completed the service remove the tyrap and reinstall cap reinstall overflow hose and service overflow bottle to desired level.
On the aqua hot I did the same thing because the adapter wouldn't fit in the area do to being too tall. Hooking vacuum tool at overflow tank then remote filling. Much easier IMO. Minimal loss when you remove the tyrap from the Aqua hot cap.
On the aqua hot I did the same thing because the adapter wouldn't fit in the area do to being too tall. Hooking vacuum tool at overflow tank then remote filling. Much easier IMO. Minimal loss when you remove the tyrap from the Aqua hot cap.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 19, 2024, 11:37:55 am
Post by: steve on October 19, 2024, 11:37:55 am
I wonder if you are also replacing your coolant hoses. As I discussed in a previous forum thread, I was unable to locate the required number of "hump hose" couplings because Gates has stopped making them. I also was frustrated by the reducing elbow hose at the transmission cooler. The orientation of the cooler and the metal coolant pipe was not correct and the hose had to be a bit twisted and distorted to fit. I'll be interested in your feedback if you're replacing these hoses also.
| Area | Description | Part Number |
|---|---|---|
| Upper Radiator Hose | ||
| Engine End: 2 1/4" x 16" Elbow | P33614 / 225-M2 ? ? | |
| Radiator End | P37548 / (Gates) 23562 Hump Hose | |
| Lower Radiator Hose | ||
| Engine End (water pump) | P37548 / (Gates) 23562 Hump Hose | |
| Radiator End | P37548 / (Gates) 23562 Hump Hose | |
| Cooler Hose | ||
| In | P37298 / (Gates) 21472 / Cut to Fit | |
| Out | P37267 / (Gates) 21400 |
The Upper radiator hose / engine end was previously replaced with an Automann 561.18225 and looks fine, its a 4-ply silicone hose, specifically AUTOMANN 561.18250 COOLANT POLY REINFORCED 4PLY 90DEG ELBOW | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/185365533369) I'm not sure what was there originally, the part number I found was 225-M2 but that is not a Gates number AFAIK.
The Upper radiator hose / radiator end was a Gates 23562 (discontinued) hump hose. This was previously replaced with a what I'll call a "hunk of hose", so that needs to be changed.
The Lower Radiator Hose / water pump and radiator ends both appear to be original Gates 23562 hoses and should be updated.
The Cooler out looks original and OK, but does not use constant torque clamps. The notes I have are "cut to size" and the P/N of 21472. I'm figuring its this part Gates Coolant Hose - 21472 (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/gates/belts---hoses/hoses/radiator-hoses/radiator-hose/15ec5eb8149c/gates-coolant-hose/gat0/21472) where they wanted that tight 90 section. If someone has done this, please let me know if this is what you had to do.
I've read the posts about the EOL of the Gates 23562 hump hose and was wondering if anyone has replaced that with something else. There are various 4" and 6" center line silicone hump hoses available. For example Automann 561.14061 is a 2.25" x 4.34" which seems like it would work fine (the Gates was 4.5" center-line length). 561.14061 RED HOT SIDE CAC COOLANT HUMP HOSE BOOT GMC - Sadler Power Train Inc (https://sadlerpowertrain.com/561-14061-red-hot-side-cac-coolant-hump-hose-boot-gmc/) and that is what I'm thinking of getting for the replacement.
If you have retro-modded these hoses / clamps, let me know what you used. Thanks!
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: rbark on October 19, 2024, 11:43:27 am
Post by: rbark on October 19, 2024, 11:43:27 am
A good source is " Intakehoses.com" for lots of hoses.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: dsd on October 19, 2024, 11:50:54 am
Post by: dsd on October 19, 2024, 11:50:54 am
Never did find a replacement for the blue silicone hose, but felt like they have a good service life. I also replaced all the hose clamps and went to tension clamps. The ones with the cupped washers. I was able to get Factory gate hoses. Should last our life time.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: dsd on October 19, 2024, 11:54:21 am
Post by: dsd on October 19, 2024, 11:54:21 am
There are also short hoses and one seal on the water pump/thermostat housing.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Geodmann on October 19, 2024, 12:16:08 pm
Post by: Geodmann on October 19, 2024, 12:16:08 pm
Steve your hose list looks correct as near as I recall. There are 3 Gates 23562 hump hoses and I was only able to source one old stock from Ebay. I emailed Gates and got a reply that that part number was discontinued. Every online source that I can find shows them as out of stock. I suppose if I need to replace one of my two remaining original hump hoses I will have to use a straight peice of 2 1/2" hose unless someone else finds a source for these. The one I had trouble with is the Gates 21472. I've attached a couple of photos that show that it's under some stress. I didn't notice the old one before I removed it but then again I wasn't really looking for that. The way the metal pipe and the cooler are mounted, the two 90 degree turns are not in plane so it must have always been a problem. Mine hasn't leaked but I don't like it. I'll be curious to see if you have a similar condition. I wanted to replace all of the hoses and there's a bunch of smaller ones as Scott has commented on but I was short on time and going down a rabbit hole trying to source them. I figure they're all up high so if I ever do need to replace them I won't have to remove much coolant. I also bought a new thermostat and gasket but when I tried to get to it I got a little intimidated about how much disassembly it would take to get to it. As I said, I was pressed for time so those parts are also on the shelf. (edited 10/29/24 to reflect correct Gates hose number)
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Michelle on October 19, 2024, 03:57:55 pm
Post by: Michelle on October 19, 2024, 03:57:55 pm
Regarding the coolant, there's a lot of opinions and mystery surrounding the choices but after reading just about every coolant thread on this forum and following the sage advice of one forum member I decided to go with Fleetguard compleat. Found out that it's just about impossible to find locally and surprisingly even Cummins doesn't carry the concentrate.
We are also going with Fleetguard Compleat also based on forum research. Steve ordered the concentrate from Cummins Thursday morning and FedEx delivered it about an hour ago. Free shipping.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 19, 2024, 06:59:20 pm
Post by: steve on October 19, 2024, 06:59:20 pm
I've attached a couple of photos that show that it's under some stress. I didn't notice the old one before I removed it but then again I wasn't really looking for that. The way the metal pipe and the cooler are mounted, the two 90 degree turns are not in plane so it must have always been a problem. Mine hasn't leaked but I don't like it.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 19, 2024, 07:27:03 pm
Post by: steve on October 19, 2024, 07:27:03 pm
I also bought a new thermostat and gasket but when I tried to get to it I got a little intimidated about how much disassembly it would take to get to it. As I said, I was pressed for time so those parts are also on the shelf.
At first I thought I could do it by just loosening the alternator and rotating it to the left to get the clearance needed to loosen the hose clamps and bolts. After trying this (and you could do it this way), I decided that having to work around the alternator would make me mental, so I pulled it out to get best access.
There are also short hoses and one seal on the water pump/thermostat housing.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Pamela & Mike on October 19, 2024, 07:44:29 pm
Post by: Pamela & Mike on October 19, 2024, 07:44:29 pm
Steve,
In your 2nd pic. you see that 90* that is just below where the thermostat housing was removed. I know I am creating work but you might give this some thought while you are in the area. There should be a "O" ring in that slip joint that may need changing. Someone here on the forum bought a hole hand full of those. Whoever may chime in with a size or part number as I don't have that right at this time.
Mike
Did you find the cooler orifice in the bypass hose?
In your 2nd pic. you see that 90* that is just below where the thermostat housing was removed. I know I am creating work but you might give this some thought while you are in the area. There should be a "O" ring in that slip joint that may need changing. Someone here on the forum bought a hole hand full of those. Whoever may chime in with a size or part number as I don't have that right at this time.
Mike
Did you find the cooler orifice in the bypass hose?
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Michelle on October 19, 2024, 08:05:45 pm
Post by: Michelle on October 19, 2024, 08:05:45 pm
Did you find the cooler orifice in the bypass hose?
He did not (he's wolfing down some dirty rice ATM so unable to type).
He remembered your prior posts on the subject so he could look for it and sent me to find the posts and photos about it. It is not there.
Thanks for the o-ring heads up.
ETA - is this the o-ring in question? ISM450 coolant leak near pump (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=47420.msg480888#msg480888)
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Pamela & Mike on October 20, 2024, 06:46:20 am
Post by: Pamela & Mike on October 20, 2024, 06:46:20 am
Yes, and the last reply has the drawings I was looking for.
I can't find the other post that has the drawing that has the washer and part number for it.
The water pump has one and the oil cooler inlet/outlet is another spot to look at in the general area you are working. Seems like Elliott had to replace the o rings in his oil cooler of his 320 but not for sure.
Mike
I can't find the other post that has the drawing that has the washer and part number for it.
The water pump has one and the oil cooler inlet/outlet is another spot to look at in the general area you are working. Seems like Elliott had to replace the o rings in his oil cooler of his 320 but not for sure.
Mike
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 20, 2024, 11:02:25 am
Post by: steve on October 20, 2024, 11:02:25 am
Looking at quick serve
Then to replace:
Looks like you may need the O-ring ( 3892095 ) and possibly the flange gasket ( 3027924 )
- Remove the two water pump water transfer connection capscrews.
- Remove the three water pump mounting capscrews.
- Rotate the water pump outward so the water transfer connection can be removed from the water pump.
- Remove the water transfer connection from the water pump.
Then to replace:
- CAUTION: In order to reduce the possibility of pinching or rolling the o-rings during assembly do not lubricate the o-rings. Lubricate the o-ring connection mating surface with clean engine coolant, soapy water, or vegetable oil.
- Install the water pump water transfer connection into the water pump.
- Install a new o-ring on the water pump mounting flange.
- The water pump must be twisted outward from the top until the transfer outlet clears the thermostat housing support during installation.
- Twist the water pump inward and install the three water pump mounting capscrews.
- Install a new gasket on the water pump water transfer connection. Install and tighten the water transfer connection capscrews.
Looks like you may need the O-ring ( 3892095 ) and possibly the flange gasket ( 3027924 )
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: dsd on October 20, 2024, 01:32:32 pm
Post by: dsd on October 20, 2024, 01:32:32 pm
My single biggest concerns is the bolts corroding in place . Please use some type of anti seize
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Pamela & Mike on October 20, 2024, 01:43:18 pm
Post by: Pamela & Mike on October 20, 2024, 01:43:18 pm
Steve,
With those sketches you can see what I was talking about. You have better luck with quick serve than I do. For sure as dsd said make sure you use anti-size on all those bolts the next owner will thank you.
Mike
With those sketches you can see what I was talking about. You have better luck with quick serve than I do. For sure as dsd said make sure you use anti-size on all those bolts the next owner will thank you.
Mike
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 20, 2024, 06:10:07 pm
Post by: steve on October 20, 2024, 06:10:07 pm
the gasket that sits inside the housing. Are there any tricks to installing that gasket? It looks like a lite press fit so, I'm hoping just thumb pressure to seat the new one.
The new gasket that goes inside the thermostat housing is a press fit. After poking at it, I realized there is no step that the gasket rests/seats on, its a straight through hole in the casting. So the easy way to remove it was to tap it down into the housing, then you can wrap a finger around it and pull it out.
Its beyond thumb pressure to insert the new one, at least my thumbs, maybe if you have Hulk thumbs. Instead of gamma radiation, I grabbed a block of wood that just fit in the opening and used the quill on my drill press (mill/drill) to set the new one in place (sorry, I don't have a bearing press). You could also use a small block of wood and slowly tap your way around the perimeter, just do not let the gasket get off plane.
So now we wait for more parts!
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 22, 2024, 10:39:37 pm
Post by: steve on October 22, 2024, 10:39:37 pm
There is a sensor on the lower bolt/stud the I assume is a temperature sensor? Should this be in direct contact with the housing face? What was in place had a small air gap. Anyone know what the proper setup for this?
Its the cold start thermostat and is part of the cold stating aid system (Ether Start dash switch)
I'm not sure if its a lockout to prevent activation of the atomizer starting fluid on warm days, but the sensor is part of that overall system. If anyone knows how that functions / interacts with the cold start system, please share!
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: craneman on October 23, 2024, 12:07:01 am
Post by: craneman on October 23, 2024, 12:07:01 am
It doesn't work when the engine is warm. I thought my ether canister was empty when I bought the coach and bought a new canister. When it still didn't work I by-passed the sensor and disconnected the line to the manifold and it worked from the dash. I never used any co2 to see how cold it needed to get but was able to use it up in the sierra's when it was in the teens outside. I only used it to verify it worked and haven't used it since even it 20 deg. weather it starts fine.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 23, 2024, 05:49:11 pm
Post by: steve on October 23, 2024, 05:49:11 pm
Thanks @craneman I'll look and see if they are any markings for open/close values. At least I now know what it is and what it does ^.^d
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 23, 2024, 06:09:43 pm
Post by: steve on October 23, 2024, 06:09:43 pm
Did you find the cooler orifice in the bypass hose?
Finally got a few parts in today so I could get back to this part of the project.
Here is the cooler orifice that goes in the bypass hose, its been on Cummins parts shelf for 6 1/2 years, bet they were glad to finally sell one !
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 29, 2024, 06:37:05 pm
Post by: steve on October 29, 2024, 06:37:05 pm
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Geodmann on October 29, 2024, 09:17:49 pm
Post by: Geodmann on October 29, 2024, 09:17:49 pm
Steve was there an orifice in the bypass hose already and you replaced it? or it was never there and you added it? What is the disc made of and what keeps it in position in the bypass hose? I'm wondering about the specific purpose of this, is it to force more coolant into the trans cooler when the thermostat is closed? I'm confused.
Also wondering if you could list all of the parts you used for this project and what did you wind up doing about the non-available hump hoses. I just noticed in your earlier reply you listed a possible replacement but that one is 2 1/4" diameter whereas the originals are 2 1/2". I don't see how that would work.
Also wondering if you could list all of the parts you used for this project and what did you wind up doing about the non-available hump hoses. I just noticed in your earlier reply you listed a possible replacement but that one is 2 1/4" diameter whereas the originals are 2 1/2". I don't see how that would work.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: dsd on October 29, 2024, 10:25:13 pm
Post by: dsd on October 29, 2024, 10:25:13 pm
Not going to like this. There is a factory plastic shut off valve on the coolant filter. You rotate it off to change the filter. Since your in that area they make a factory improved shaft that wont break like the OEM 20 year old one will. I have the info in my coach about 200 feet away. Can't get there yet with the knee to get numbers. Will look more tomorrow for it.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: rbark on October 29, 2024, 10:42:09 pm
Post by: rbark on October 29, 2024, 10:42:09 pm
George, if I remember right, that restrictor reduces the flow of coolant in the system to allow the temperature to reach the thermostat set point. I might not have said that right, but it's something like that.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Michelle on October 29, 2024, 10:49:47 pm
Post by: Michelle on October 29, 2024, 10:49:47 pm
Not going to like this. There is a factory plastic shut off valve on the coolant filter. You rotate it off to change the filter. Since your in that area they make a factory improved shaft that wont break like the OEM 20 year old one will. I have the info in my coach about 200 feet away. Can't get there yet with the knee to get numbers. Will look more tomorrow for it.
A quick search of the forum turns up p/n 3010536, but it shows for the 8.3/ISC. Is it the same p/n for the ISM?
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: dsd on October 29, 2024, 10:51:08 pm
Post by: dsd on October 29, 2024, 10:51:08 pm
Unknown. Ill try to get down to the coach in the morning
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 30, 2024, 09:30:37 am
Post by: steve on October 30, 2024, 09:30:37 am
Steve was there an orifice in the bypass hose already and you replaced it
Also wondering if you could list all of the parts you used for this project and what did you wind up doing about the non-available hump hoses
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 30, 2024, 09:34:53 am
Post by: steve on October 30, 2024, 09:34:53 am
Not going to like this. There is a factory plastic shut off valve on the coolant filter.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on October 31, 2024, 08:43:06 pm
Post by: steve on October 31, 2024, 08:43:06 pm
Latest progress.
I ended up replacing all of the hose clamps. There were several I was going to reuse, but after I cleaned and inspected them, I found one with a cracked Belleville washer stack and a couple that no longer turned smoothly. The best of the old ones are in our roadside spares box. I purchased the new clamps from CAP Hardware (https://www.caphardwaresupply.com/collections/worm-gear-clamps/products/copy-of-constant-torque-ct-aero-seal-hose-clamps) which had the best price I could find (yes you will pay ~$8.50 per clamp)
The upper radiator hose, (2 1/4" x 16" Elbow); I left unchanged as it had been recently changed to an Automann 561.18225. I believe the OEM was a Purosil 90-225-M2 which was superseded by Purosil 90-225-MK2 (https://store.reliableindustries.com/silicone-hose-products/90-225-mk2-2-25-90-degree-silicon-elbow/)
The (3) hump hoses (2) on the radiator and (1) on the water pump are the unavailable Gates 23562. I found plenty of 2-1/2" x 4" hump hoses but the Gates was a 4-1/2". That is not much of a difference, but the Breeze HD clamps do not give you much wiggle room on the short fittings, that extra 1/4" is handy. I went with 2-1/2" x 6" hump hose (https://www.americancoolingsolutions.com/2-5-x-6-0-silicone-coolant-hump-hose-25035/) from American Cooling Solutions.
I cut them to length (where needed) by lightly tightening a hose clamp where I wanted to cut and then used the clamp a a guide for a razor knife (use a new blade!). It cuts easy and only takes a few times around, don't try to do it all at once.
The remaining hoses are the transmission cooling ones that I purchased at O'Reilly (best coupons at the time). Gates21400 (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/gates/gates-coolant-hose/gat0/21400?q=Gates+21400&pos=0) and the Gates 21472 (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/gates/gates-coolant-hose/gat0/21472?q=Gates+21472&pos=0) that you will need to cut to fit.
While I was "at it", some of the CAC hoses had previously been changed before we bought the coach and I was not completely happy with them (or their installation.) I changed them (they were a no-name brand) back to the OEM 4" Silicone Charge Air Hose (https://store.reliableindustries.com/silicone-hose-products/367-400-080-4-silicone-charge-air-hose-8-long/)
The upper radiator hose, (2 1/4" x 16" Elbow); I left unchanged as it had been recently changed to an Automann 561.18225. I believe the OEM was a Purosil 90-225-M2 which was superseded by Purosil 90-225-MK2 (https://store.reliableindustries.com/silicone-hose-products/90-225-mk2-2-25-90-degree-silicon-elbow/)
The remaining hoses are the transmission cooling ones that I purchased at O'Reilly (best coupons at the time). Gates21400 (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/gates/gates-coolant-hose/gat0/21400?q=Gates+21400&pos=0) and the Gates 21472 (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/gates/gates-coolant-hose/gat0/21472?q=Gates+21472&pos=0) that you will need to cut to fit.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Michelle on November 06, 2024, 12:32:44 pm
Post by: Michelle on November 06, 2024, 12:32:44 pm
A quick search of the forum turns up p/n 3010536, but it shows for the 8.3/ISC. Is it the same p/n for the ISM?
Bumping to see if we have confirmation on the p/n so I can start shopping.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: Pamela & Mike on November 06, 2024, 01:16:27 pm
Post by: Pamela & Mike on November 06, 2024, 01:16:27 pm
M
I must have missed this earlier, but that shaft won't fit our M-11. Now it might fit your newer engine BUT if you are going to change to extended life antifreeze why not just put a blank disc (not a no SCA filter) on the housing and forget about it. Some may say Oh you have to have the filter to get out casting sand. Well a 10 year old boy passes more at one time than flows through that filter. If you have casting sand left after this length of time you have bigger problems.
Mike
I must have missed this earlier, but that shaft won't fit our M-11. Now it might fit your newer engine BUT if you are going to change to extended life antifreeze why not just put a blank disc (not a no SCA filter) on the housing and forget about it. Some may say Oh you have to have the filter to get out casting sand. Well a 10 year old boy passes more at one time than flows through that filter. If you have casting sand left after this length of time you have bigger problems.
Mike
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: wolfe10 on November 06, 2024, 01:40:56 pm
Post by: wolfe10 on November 06, 2024, 01:40:56 pm
M
I must have missed this earlier, but that shaft won't fit our M-11. Now it might fit your newer engine BUT if you are going to change to extended life antifreeze why not just put a blank disc (not a no SCA filter) on the housing and forget about it. Some may say Oh you have to have the filter to get out casting sand. Well a 10 year old boy passes more at one time than flows through that filter. If you have casting sand left after this length of time you have bigger problems.
Mike
I would be one who would use a filter blank (full filtration, no SCA) when going with one of the OAT based coolants BUT would change it every other year. Crud can break loose even in a 10 year old engine and its cooling system.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: dsd on November 17, 2024, 08:11:03 pm
Post by: dsd on November 17, 2024, 08:11:03 pm
Not going to like this. There is a factory plastic shut off valve on the coolant filter. You rotate it off to change the filter. Since your in that area they make a factory improved shaft that wont break like the OEM 20 year old one will. I have the info in my coach about 200 feet away. Can't get there yet with the knee to get numbers. Will look more tomorrow for it.
Title: Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]
Post by: steve on November 20, 2024, 10:07:02 am
Post by: steve on November 20, 2024, 10:07:02 am
I did test (not inspect) the valve and it does turns freely.
Lumbering through Quick Serve for my ESN and finding the Option Detail was called the "Corrosion Resistor" (WF2031-02) I'm coming up with a P/N 3818849 / Shaft, Shutoff Valve. For completeness, that also uses P/N 3818885 / O-Ring and P/N 205363 / Spring Washer.
I'm guessing there was a change to that head between our two model years.
Lumbering through Quick Serve for my ESN and finding the Option Detail was called the "Corrosion Resistor" (WF2031-02) I'm coming up with a P/N 3818849 / Shaft, Shutoff Valve. For completeness, that also uses P/N 3818885 / O-Ring and P/N 205363 / Spring Washer.
I'm guessing there was a change to that head between our two model years.