A rat ate through my fuel line! I started the coach yesterday, no issues. While it was running, I heard a clunk, and the engine stopped. I had a puddle of fuel just in front of the rear axle. I got underneath, pulled gently on the lines where they go forward into the channel, and the 1/2 ID line separated into two pieces.
The portion that goes forward I can't reach. The plan is to drop the channel cover in the center storage bins, run a fish line from near the axle to the center storage bins (just in case.) Then pull the severed line forward, add a couple feet of new line with a 1/2-inch barbed union and clamps. Then attach the new portion of line to the existing severed line that goes rearward with another union and clamps.
I might replace the complete line sometime later, when I don't have a full fuel tank!
I have done pretty well with keeping the desert rats away from our stuff. Recent health issues had me distracted for a while and the rodents took advantage!
Bummer. We've had one rat attack in 11+ years owning our coach. Our resident rodent chewed on everything except the fuel lines - obviously a less discerning palate. Sorry to say that the cut hose you have already discovered may NOT be the only damage. Do a thorough search in engine compartment and all storage compartments to see if you find any other problems, or a nest.
RAT - My First (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=29054.0)
Good luck with your repair plan. I hope you are able to "pull the severed line forward". Based on what I have read about fuel line replacement projects, there may not be a lot of available slack in the fuel line. If you can't get the line to move, you might be able to cut the line where it passes through the center storage bay, then run fresh fuel line rearward from that point.
I've had to repair two vehicles mangled by rodents. I suggest as Chuck says pulling down the chase cover and then looking for additional damage near the fuel line. Then after repairing the fuel line test every single system in your coach to see if it all works. Better a repair at home than a problem on the road. A cautionary tale for all of us this rodent mischief. Good hunting and fishing.
I looked over the engine bay pretty well, and saw no damage. I will inspect more when I get under there again.
The fuel lines were replaced a couple of years ago. I think they still have enough flexibility to pull the line out and into the center bay. the old lines were hard - they would have folded or broken before they did a 12-inch radius bend.
I left enough slack in most of the lines for end replacements if they were necessary. Unfortunately, I cannot reach the end above the wet bay-manifold section. It is probably inches from being visible, but very difficult to even feel up in that area. I will try again, but I think I will have to pull the line toward the front and remove the line from this area to get access to the severed end.
I installed an HDMI cable to the back but within a month, rodents had eaten it. I installed another with an expandable sleeve and it's been good for several years now. About 10x as easy to pull with the expandable sleeve through the belly.
Pierce
I used the sleeve when I replaced the fuel lines, and I would recommend it. However, the rat just chewed through the sleeve too!
Some time ago, I placed bars of Irish Spring soap under the hoods of the cars, based on a recommendation. The rats gnawed away a significant portion of the bar.
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There are two fuel lines that go from the tank to the engine area. One is big, one is smaller.
Since the severed line is the smaller, and it stopped the engine, I assume it is the supply line. Am I correct? If it were the return line, I think it would have happily pumped fuel out of the hole for a long time.
I can see the smaller line being the return - less fuel goes from the engine to the tank.
I can see the smaller line being the send - smaller line for the vacuum, larger line for lower pressure return.
I am still working on stuff and will report later!
The larger line is the supply. Maybe you will find it cut open also.
And correct you are! I was able to pull the supply line rearward and there was about six inches of the top half of the line chewed away. It was difficult but possible to reach around the air tank and restore the line with a combiner barb and hose clamps.
The smaller line was too short - I could not get my hand on the severed end that went forward. I tried to run a fish tape back to front, but I could not get it to pass through. I was able to run a PIPE front to back, and then run the fish tape inside the pipe, and then remove the pipe. Getting the end of the fish tape into the end of that tube was above the air tank, on the far side and on top of the existing mess. Just that inch took me about 30 minutes!
I tried to prime the fuel to the engine with the prime button on the water separator, but I was not surprised that it did not work. I figure that little pump is for expelling 1/2 quart of air from a filter change, and not drawing fuel up and through about 30 feet of line.
I have read references to using a shop compressor to prime the system, but did not see any specific instructions. I am guessing...
1. crack the connection for the fuel line after the water separator
2. don't worry about the fuel cap on the opposite side, or about the fuel tank vent hose
3. place snoot of air compressor line into the fuel fill port
4. surround the snoot with a damp shop rag to create a seal
5. put in air, but not in a hurry. low pressure over a few minutes is better than high pressure
6. watch for a good dribble at the cracked fuel line connection
7. tighten fuel line connection.
Do I have that procedure about right? Is there a better, yet accessible place to crack the line?
Just cycle the prime button several times. When I changed my lines it worked for me.
I tried cycling the prime button, but no fuel. Further examination revealed a THIRD hole, second hole in the supply line. Fortunately, I had access to both ends of the line going through the sealed-off area. I cut the line, attached new line and pulled it through. Probably 10 minutes, compared to the half a day for getting the severed line replaced.
Still no results from the prime button, after about 1.5 minutes of intermittent action. I removed the schrader valve from the water separator body, and followed basically what I proposed above to gently force the fuel back to the fitting. After a dribble and a squirt through the schrader valve opening, I then pressed the prime button and I could hear the changes in pitch as it forced the air out.
It started and it ran. Yay!
A second start after an hour took about 10 seconds rather than the usual five seconds. I was cautious with my connections, so I don't suspect a leak, just a consolidation of air bubble in the line. There is probably a bunch of hose shrapnel IN one of the lines, but I am due for an oil and filter change before any trips.
I jammed a bunch of bronze wool into the openings to keep rats out of that three feet of the coach. They have recently been shy of my traps, apparently.
Thanks all for your comments and silent support.
Keep your eyes open for another small hole as the engine can pull fuel through it and it would leak when the engine is not running.
You can also pinch off the lines (one at a time) at the tank and use a MityVac to pull a vacuum back at the engine. Any hole will cause the gauge to drop. Naturally, any hole will cause diesel to leak out and be replaced by air. This usually results from a little longer cranking time to not wanting to start at all. Just depends on where and how bad the leak is.
If I have not started the engine for a while, I use the frame mounted manual fuel pump to pressurize the system. Good to check for filter leaks too. I noticed a few drops coming from the gasket between the clear bottom cap on the Racor and the filter itself. Tightened and had an uneventful trip. A couple of days ago, I pumped the system up and found a much larger leak at the same place. Those gaskets age and good to have replacements on board.
Pierce
Started right up this morning.
Here is one of the rat-chomped sections
That guy was hungry!!
Looks like normal wear to me. Perhaps it's like a tire wear bar showing when it's time to change out the hose. Let's not have like Johnny said, "a rush to judgement."
P
So.... Chapter two
With glue traps, a baited cage trap, two prismatic multi color and pattern lights, a yellow rodent strobe, an ultrasonic repeller, stereo playing in the coach, the area doused with diesel fuel, and photographic evidence of two feral cats that passed by, the rat ate the fuel line AGAIN the next night after my repair.
After lots of despair, I made a plan. I disconnected the larger fuel line at the water separator, and routed the exhaust from a small generator INTO the fuel line, assuming the exhaust would come out where the rat chewed a hole in the line.
Today, I removed the cover in the wet bay, and sucked out a bunch of rat midden debris and a stiff dead rat. Yay!
Here is the next problem - the docking lights are on, even with the switches off. I cut the wires to stop the battery drain and can easily reconnect later. I removed the driver side cover for the fresh water tank, and can see that a bunch of (I think white) wires have the insulation chewed off. But I cannot reach to the wires. I am avoiding turning anything else on, just in case.
I am guessing that the water tank will slide out after the metal retainer bracket on the driver side is removed. I see two water lines at the bottom edge of the tank on the passenger side, which I can reach in to remove. What else will I have to unhook? I assume the supply hose is around somewhere. Where the disabled coach is parked, I can't get into the bay opposite the wet bay (I have to get it running again first to pull it out of the storage spot.
In short, how do I get the fresh water tank out of a 1998 U-320, 36 foot?
Oh, I also set up a game camera and got a photo of the rat. I made the photo my computer wallpaper, but unfortunately deleted the original. Here is an artist's rendering of the scene:
Rats and mice are not really jumpers, they like to run along the ground most of the time. Having said that rats can jump up about 36 inches and across a gap up to 48 inches. Dropping down 50 feet does not usually kill or seriously injure rats so beware of overhanging tree branches
Mice can jump up approximately 12 inches.
They are very likely to climb up tires and tire covers and on then on to the axels as well up hoses and the shore power cable.
Some copper wire wool around the incoming cable and also around the edges of the water tank to stop any rodent getting into the basement is a really good idea
At a minimum it is good to have exterior (weighted or secured rodent stations on the ground at each wheel and at the incoming utilities.
The propane tank area is another open area that mice love to visit, a few bait blocks there is a good idea.
If rodents get into the basement they can damage belongings and then get into the living quarters, a bait block inside will smell tasty to them if they happen to visit, once the bait is eaten they will generally leave to die as they frantically search for water.
Rodents do not like mint and there are numerous repellents you can spray or hang in the engine area.
ROFL You could be a police crime scene artist!
A bit more work but something to consider:
Flexo® Rodent Resistant | Techflex.com (https://www.techflex.com/heavy-duty/rodent-resistant-sleeving)
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I would caution against bait blocks and other rodenticides.
Old-school ones contain coumadin. Those are the ones that likely create the element of thirst (basically, the rodent bleeds out internally.) If a pet encounters a rodent poisoned with this
and you realize it in time there is a treatment (high dose vitamin K).
Newer ones are neurotoxins for which there is no antidote or treatment. Just palliative care until the animal passes.
Not a concern for rodents, but definitely deadly for family pets, beneficial predators, and beneficial raptors that encounter a poisoned rodent. Googling "secondary rodenticide poisoning" will bring up more info.
I've always found trapping more satisfying, channel your inner Jim Bridger. A dead rat in an inaccessible cavity would be more of a nightmare than a live one.
That said, rats are smart, and quickly become trap shy. Matt's carbon monoxide solution is genius.
On further reflection (actually dreaming about the situation,) I think I trapped the rat inside the cavity with the bronze wool. My plan is to replace the fuel line, inspect and insulate the chewed wires (if I can get the water tank out - still would love some experienced guidance,) and try to seal off the cavity. I also have some no-chew spray and some peppermint spray on-hand, that I can use to drench the cavity.
Getting my body into that cavity where the water tank now is will be tough. I am thinking arms first, then my body angled. I don't think I will be able to lay flat. With my arms over my head, I will likely need an assistant to pull my feet and get me out! I am not claustrophobic at all.
Thanks all for the guidance.
We have not had such a serious rat event in years. I now realize that I neglected my preventative measures, in favor of looking after my wife. It is a just cause. I don't know that I would do differently if I experienced that again, but I understand the failing.
Some time ago I posted about removal of our domestic water tank. I have had ours out a couple of times checking the bulkheads and the seal material. It isn't as bad of job as it looks like and there is plenty of room to work in that area after the tank is removed. I can't find the thread or threads that had the pics or the one that has a written how to. When my IT head gets back I will see if she can find those threads unless someone finds them first.
Mike
Well here is on of the post that has a how to but not the one with the pics.
Fresh water tank removal (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=35090.msg326395#msg326395)
Thanks for that. It sounds like there will be no big surprises. I got the coach running again, just minutes ago, I need to button a bunch of stuff up, and then I can move the coach forward, so I can get into the water manifold area.
For those that follow... It is real tough to get the line from the storage bin back to around the axle with a fish tape or by shoving from one end! Last time, I attached new line to old and pulled that through. This time, that approach failed.
I shoved the new line into the small passage from the main storage area, into the wet bay area. I already had the two appearance covers removed from the wet bay. I adjusted the exposed length of the new line to where it was about an inch longer than the space. I used a piece of pipe to push on the end until it popped through the center divider of the wet bay area. Took a few tries to get the length right.
Then I pushed a fish tape through the back passage, underneath near the rear axle. I attached the new line to the fish tape and pulled it back through the rear opening.
All of this would have been a lot easier with access to where the water tank sits. Unfortunately access to remove the water tank is blocked where the coach is parked.
Maybe tomorrow for the water tank. I am pretty beat.
Responding Michelle's comment te rodent baiting: FASTRAC® All-Weather BLOX with the active ingredient, bromethalin, is what we use if there is the posibility of a secondary kill. A dog would have to eat 15% of its weight to be affected and die, a bird eating a dead mouse may feel that it has a bad Chinese meal but is not killed.
A report...
I kept some block poison up in the coach framework, and it remained untouched. I have had no luck in the past with it - maybe it is a characteristic of the pack rats we fight locally. Nothing in the baited glue traps. I maintained a live-catch trap for a while, but only caught birds.
I did spray all around the coach with commercial peppermint spray, and added a couple of socks with a bunch of paprika inside. I still have the multi-color, multi-pattern, stage light going. It has been a couple of months with a game camera pointing underneath. I saw one small rat the first night, and no rats since. Nearly every night, I do get images of three local cats patrolling.
Good kitties!
So maybe I have solved the rat problem, at least until they adapt again.