I noticed the brake pad were riding too low in first picture. Second picture I used 2 chisels to hold
the shoes to high so I could bend the metal holds that the pads in place. Three of my rears pads were
riding to low and now they are riding where they should.
Aubrey at FT chastised me for the same thing....it looks like you are not using your brakes enough. The retarder is great, but the disc brakes need to be exercised often to stay lubricated and rust free. Just my observation. W.
I also use the brakes hard and regularly. Increased the D2 pressure to 130max. Last mod was nodular iron front rotors. Much stronger action
Those brakes look like they need some real attention. RV stored outside and sits unused? Here in NY we have annual inspections and those would fail. Rotors should be turned and new pads fitted. One of the possible failures is the pad materials separating form the back ping plates. Often called rust jacking. It happens frequently with drum brake shoes.
I think the pads will revert back to the rubbing position as soon as you use the brakes,and your pins look like they need some cleaning,you don;t want to have to install a rotor or more,get it fixed now and have minimum parts to buy.Helped change out a rotor and rebuilt 2 calipers a while back and it's alot of work.
Finally got the last pin out. I used a socket and bolts to get the bottom ones out with a spacer
between the brakes and the Anker. I used a heavy brass hammer to pound on the pin and then
would tighten up on the bolts. A long prosses. When I do the front pins I will buy some grade
8 ready rod and that will make it much easier. I'm off to pick up the helper springs and hopefully
will get it back together this afternoon.
Another suggestion,if that pin is as rusty as it looks,bite the bullet and get new ones and think about getting the seals also,will
save you in the long run.
Worked on the front brakes today putting in helper springs. The first picture is some of the
tools I used. The brass hammer makes it safer and the air chipper makes it easy to replace the
pins and the emery in the die grinder makes cleaning the pin bushing easy. The second picture
is the setup using grade 8 ready rod and the long nut to pull the pins. Tow of them came out
without using the brass hammer and the other two I would tighter up the read rod and the hit
the pin with the hammer. I wish I would have come up with that technique doing the rear ones
as it would have saved me a lot of work. I now have helper spring all around.
Peter thanks for posting. You need to post the air temperature to really put it all into perspective. Load the pinch bolt area up with anti seize to keep the salt out. I promise the next time will be a lot easier.
Yes Scott I used lots of neverseize and I anyone uses this method the space where the nut is
needs to be supported and with the helper springs in there it will be harder to support.
where