I will be drilling a 3/4" hole through the roof into the back of the engine compartment to drop in a RJ45 cable for Starlink.
Wood bit? Metal bit? Fiberglass layer, wood layer, insulation layer no doubt.
Amazon.com: 3/4 inch brill bits (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3%2F4+inch+brill+bit&crid=1E0J3Y23YW380&sprefix=3%2F4+inch+brill+bit%2Caps%2C283&linkCode=ll2&tag=foreforums-20&linkId=f13047a1ab656f2e9b189ea7a9d6c34a&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl)
Use a stud finder or other tool to find and avoid any frame beams. Probably a hole saw will make the best cut without shattering the fiberglass. Whay such as large hole? Can the cable be installed and then the connectors attached after? You want a bushing or cable fitting to fil that hole, not just sealant around the cable.
When you say the back of the engine compartment, are you in the fiberglass rear cap only and not likely any wood or aluminum structure? If you're forward of the rear cap, i would think you're in the bedroom ceiling at that point. I agree to use the smallest hole size possible and i would use standard twist bits and step up in size to the desired final hole size. I recently used a cable gland like the attached picture. They also make a smaller one for a single cable.
Just barely on the roof, right before the curve down the backcap. Right next to where the aftermarket Air Con condensation drain line penetrates the roof then drains down to rear of coach. I can take a photo of location a bit later today.
I have a grommet to fit the 3/4 inch hole. The RJ45 arrives assembled and watertight.
If not installing Starlink router in rear of coach, why not run antenna cable along top of roof into fridge vent instead of running it forward inside coach which can be more work and make it harder if new cable is required in future.
Hole size ¾" could be large enough to make a great weather seal a challenge. If drilling roof, use electronic stud finder to keep away from metal studs. After that it is just thin materials, like fiberglass, foam, wood, etc. Slobber cable and hole with sealant. Would be better to use smaller hole for cable and later add cable terminal.
Another alternative is to feed cable into coach via the engine/rear camera air intake which is accessible from inside coach behind wood panel in top of bed cabinet.
If Starlink antenna is permanent mounted so it can be used mobile, how is it attached, or if planning to use rear ladder, know it could make the dangerous climb onto roof more dangerous.
Starlink seems to be a moving target when it comes up with new better equipment and more flexible mobile plans. Plan for upgrades as you may find their internet addictive.
Pics
Roof penetration right next to ac condensation drain hose.
Where it comes out in engine compartment
Starlink will be on rear of coach.
For drilling current plan is blue painters tape over area, small pilot bit. Run in reverse first to not crack gell coat, then forward low/medium speed. Then the larger bit, reverse first, then low/medium speed. May try and chamfer the top a small amount.
I may look for a cable gland (single) like Geodmann posted. I will be using a preassembled water tight RJ45 cable.
More in a minute on overall plan.
Overall plan:
Our bed is north/south, so very easy access to engine compartment from above inside the bedroom.
Power supply/router will be mounted on carpeted end of bed under the matress area (open to bedroom)
I will have 2 data cables, one 30' permanent mounted to roof. Second one 50' original starlink cable run to rear hatch, coiled up for when starlink needs to be moved to ground due to obstructions.
I will have a flat mount on the roof (removable), still picking which mount, speedmount or flatmount. TRIO Flatmount Starlink Mounts (https://www.trioflatmount.com/)
Starlink will remain on roof most of the time. Our winter location (4-6 months per year stationary) has a great shot from rear of coach. I have a very strong little giant ladder we carry. I won't have to get on the roof to remove the starlink, reachable from the little giant ladder.
Starlink Gen3 standard ordered from Home Depot, $350, minus 10% miitary discount, plus AZ tax.
I will use this standoff mount for power supply/router. (more airflow): Amazon.com: Starlink Gen 3 Mount in Aluminum (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCW6R4SZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)
This (extra) cable to reach roof, has a $20 coupon upon order: Amazon.com: Starlink Cable Gen 3 30 FT, CMX CMR Rated 26AWG Starlink... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9Y8G3PB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
Cable end caps for roof/engine compartment: Amazon.com: Starlink V4 Cable Silicone Caps, Starlink Mini Cable Plug... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDCPZBKV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
Grommets on oder, will look for better product: Amazon.com: Saillong 4 Pcs Cable Routing Kit Compatible with Starlink... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D47BR7HP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
I hate holes in the roof - if you have a ladder, would it be possible to attach to the backside(closer to roof/cap) of one of the vertical posts and loop in up and under the top of the rear cap? If I was going to drill I would probably do the painter's tape and then use a diamond hole saw(think tile cutter).. Don't love the idea of a regular hole saw, not sure how much fracturing it might do if you have decent gel coat left - if you go to holesaw route definitely use a punch for your pilot hole and drill that without the hole saw attached, then when you actually use the hole saw make first contact as gingerly as possible... The cable connector gland should cover any fracturing, I would definitely consider some sealant on the edge.
2 updates:
1. with a strong flashlight I could look up where the AC condensation hoses (one on each side) come through the roof. Looks like fiberglass only, no insulation.
2. I have only used the electric block heater twice in 8 years, and was planning to unplug it then use the outlet for the starlink power. Just realized that outlet is not on the inverter. Instead of modifying main power/inveter wiring I can run a 6' extension cord from headboard area of bed around to foot to power the starlink. It will be up and attached to the side of bed platform out of the way, not a trip hazard.
In photos, starlink router/powerblock will be on carpet near the inverter breakers, and data cables run past the ATS then down the flat area on right side (in photo) of engine
Add a new surface mounted outlet that is wired through the bed base to the inverter breaker panel.
I'm curious about the "Air Con" condensation drain lines. Are these used with the Dometic Duo Therms? If so how do they connect to the rooftop units?
Previous owners Steve and Michelle had it done. There are little cups inside the units, then drain lines run to the rear and down. It's Dometic, with heat pump function.
dometic duo therm drain lines - Search images (https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=VjnKSL1K&id=BB11F4D4FC68307C37BFA28804EC7F14F2E3F422&thid=OIP.VjnKSL1KB7f4prqP4IF5wgHaFj&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fcdn10.bigcommerce.com%2fs-1qoh2o2%2fproducts%2f1095%2fimages%2f1600%2f3107688016__85685.1451326489.1280.1280.jpg%3fc%3d2&cdnurl=https%3a%2f%2fth.bing.com%2fth%2fid%2fR.5639ca48bd4a07b7f8a6ba8fe08179c2%3frik%3dIvTj8hR%252f7ASIog%26pid%3dImgRaw%26r%3d0&exph=960&expw=1280&q=dometic+duo+therm+drain+lines&simid=608007025993917947&FORM=IRPRST&ck=B932E53053A8E819C7E9C38D5633A6F0&selectedIndex=0&itb=0&idpp=overlayview&ajaxhist=0&ajaxserp=0)
Roof Air condensation pan on the roof has a place where water drains out the side and flows over the roof usually flowing over the side of the coach. Some experimentation was to add a plastic pipe on top of roof with a hose that connects to the place where the water leaves the condensation pan. Then drill a hole into the top of the end cap and connect another hose or elbow from the plastic pipe into the end cap, with the idea to let condensation water empty into the open end-cap space which is open to the ground.
Problems can occur with clogs in the plastic pipe and the hoses connected to the plastic pipe which is just lying on the roof. Water also does not necessarily drain well as the plastic pipe is not slanted enough for gravity to do a good job. Coach level may also contribute to lack of good water flow. Assume that dumping water into the space around the roof air vent vertical pipe could make a mess.
Condensation drain pan can overflow out the curbside or streetside, and using the plastic pipe to divert water to the rear cap seems to require closing off the drain overflow on the 'other' side so it all goes to the plastic pipe. Also, condensation water that does not easily leave the drain pan may backup and flow into interior of coach.
Be interesting to hear success stories of using the end cap drain and wonder if some roof air conditioners are designed for improved controlling the flow of condensate water. Not familiar how much Foretravel built coaches with end cap drains.
We bought the coach in 2016 with the drain lines already installed. Zero issues other than replacing the long drain hoses from the AC units to the rear (due to weather degradation of the hoses). Once it enters the rear cap, additional hoses drain down to under the chassis (pic above of one of the engine compartment hoses).
In my 2014 the AC units have a pump that pumps the water out into the line. The problem with my coach is Foretravel plumbed the two front unit together and the two rear ones together. If one of the front units is running and the other is not and the slope in not right, the running AC will be pushing water into the other one and then it goes in the overflow section and drains the water on the roof.
We did have issues with the original installation (2010) - the condensate cups and hose mounting hardware aren't UV-protected and the hose barbs on the cups degraded rather quickly. Steve re-did the entire system in
(I think) 2014 2012 and we painted all the hardware with Krylon first before it was installed. If it's lasted
10 12 years since then, I would
highly recommend the painting before installation.
There should be another a/c outlet, in the bed puka, drinker's side, for the Bose remote speakers. It's powered by the inverter.
2003 doesn't have Bose speakers in the bed base. It has a dedicated Wave radio on a nightstand instead.
Install of Starlink gen 3.on roof rear of coach complete.
It is removable to place on ground if we are somewhere with obstructions long enough to want to.move it to ground level. Trio flatmount with VHB tape used.
Cable had to come through rear cap on passenger side due to air intake on drivers side.
2 cables, one for roof, one coiled up ready to use at ground level.
Wiring runs. Duct tape temporary while dicor cures.
The starlink is second fiddle compared to how clean that roof is! ^.^d ^.^d
In Montana a couple of months ago I brushed it in a campground that allowed washing. And the day before the pics I had a mobile RV wash done, and they pressure washed the roof. Currently in a SKP co-op in Benson AZ where we have a site.