I am planning some cabinet work and am having trouble finding the correct rail and style router bits. I believe I am looking for a 5/16 radius but have found 3/16 adjustable and 1/4 solid Amana bits but that is the closest so far. I suspect i will need adjustable to get the shoulders right. I haven't started looking for the rest of the needed bits and thought I would ask the group what you have used. If I do this my first project is likely to get rid of the tv cabinet over the driver seat and fill it in to match. 1999 u320 in walnut. If someone has done this project I am interested in any tips but especially the tooling used.
If you don't get enough help from Forum members, you could always try calling the factory. 10 years ago FOT had a first class remodel shop run by David Flanagan. He kept some highly skilled wood workers on the payroll. They could build literally anything you could imagine. Did some wonderful custom cabinet and furniture work. Link below to our days in the remodel shop. I don't know if they still do this level of custom work, but they may have someone in the shop who could answer your router question.
Our Days Spent in Remodel Shop (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22542.0)
When I was doing renovations in my coach I went to a tool place and was able to get the routers
I need.
When I made our cabinet doors I couldn't find the exact bits but what I got was close and you don't notice the difference--
I'm the only one that knows they are different LOL!
Chris
Larry Ratliff was one of the primary woodworkers in David Flanagan's remodeling shop. You might try contacting him to ask
What did you do to your coach today X (2024) (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=48468.msg492027#msg492027)
What Chris Lang said. You'd be surprised how small differences just disappear.
Rich
Well I am committed now. I removed the cabinet that used to hold the TV. My plan for the TV is for a ceiling mount that will fold the tv up flat to the ceiling when not in use. Any ideas and direction on that would be appreciated.
I am also trying to decide if I should remove the traveler dish at this time since that will get rid of a bunch of wires that are in the way and I don't forsee ever using it. If anyone wants it let me know as that may determin how it comes off if I go that direction.
I took some photos but don't seem to have the button on my phone to post them.
Wish me luck on this project as I am sure I will find some hurdles to get over.
Here is how I did that on our 1993 U240
Well.... That brings up some questions. David F at Foretravel told us I couldn't do that cause that ceiling couldn't support it. I questioned it at the time but thought , he ought to know ... and wasn't looking forward to the configuring of cables. Power and Dish.
I've since though there has to be a way to support it and we've ditched the Dish and stream everything so 2 less cables.
Now I see it's been done... and TVs are lighter than ever.
I agree with David @ Foretravel, I would not/did not suspend much weight from the ceiling.
I installed hinge on the vertical and only did this style mount when the "top to bottom" dimension of the TV allowed the barrel bolt to be installed at a reinforced point in the ceiling.
Different coaches will have different ceiling structure. Evaluate YOURS for where you have structural members.
Brett,
You have raised the bar for me, boxing in the TV looks great. That is a very clean look which is what I am going for. The TV should not weigh more than 20 Lbs and looking at what you did, I am guessing that you used 1/4" Plywood which will keep the weight down. I am hoping to have mine a bit lower in watching mode so I don't block the center speaker.
I was agonizing over the look of the walnut wood I purchased as it looked too gray and dark compared to the cabinets. Note the difference in color where the wood was covered.
The original black walnut mellows over time with exposure to sunlight. It will gradually blend or if you have a little time and dry, sunny weather you can let it "cure" in the sun a bit. Even indoors in a western-facing room will help.
Here is my 94 U280. I added cabinet doors where the old tube tv was. I was able to match the doors to the kitchen cabinet doors almost exactly. 50" fits on the shelf.
I am getting some great ideas. I will need to mock some of these up with cardboard
Thanks!
Karl, what do you do with your tv when you drive? Jim.
We use a very similar tv but with an L bracket attached to it that securely keeps it from tipping forward and also rearward of course. But obviously it can't go towards the window much if at all.
And to store it during travel it lives below the window ( pass side ) in the bedroom. They are so thin these days that I don't hardly notice it navigating into bed. And this L bracket sinks into the bedroom carpet enough that i never notice it. ... no toe stubbing going on. Of course its screen side towards the wall.
Bret. I'm thinking David and yourself meant ceiling by the carpeted area but ,,i counted ceiling as everything above the window which would include the front cabinets and the transition area where you have your barrel latch ??
Now I'm revisiting this ceiling mount thing and credit to Mike. I love the cardboard mockup idea. Since our newest tv is about 2" wide at the widest point i might be able to do it .. and keep some headroom...
"Karl, what do you do with your tv when you drive? Jim."
I also store mine under the window between the wall and the bed. The base is very heavy and we wedge it in with a blanket. We also store a 60" that mounts outside. We lay it across the bed. I know...I have too many tv's!
Any way you can show a close up and/or profile of the contour,may have a bit to match.
Attached is a profile of a cabinet door. The radius of the round part is 5/16" . I was having a tough time finding anything that small with the shoulder on each side. I learned that Foretravel used a shaper and had custom cutters for this. I found an Amana Set ( 55437 Carbide Tipped Adjustable Bead Instile and Rail System. (https://www.amanatool.com/55437-carbide-tipped-adjustable-bead-instile-and-rail-system-1-5-8-dia-x-5-8-to-1-1-8-x-3-16-radius-x-1-2-inch-shank-set.html)) that has a 3/8" radius, so only 1/16th difference. It should be close enough. I have not yet found a bit for the raised panel yet, but that should not be too hard, I really have not looked yet.
The color difference in the wood clearly appears to be a light exposure issue. I tried putting some walnut under some grow lights but did not change the color at all. I know that probably did not have enough light to make a difference. If I get a sunny day here in the rainy part of the world I will learn more. I know that with Honduras Mahogany, just a few hours in the sun makes a dramatic change in color. I will also test with the sanding sealer on the walnut to see if that adds to the color change.
I have decided to attempt to go with a box very much like what Brett did. I am going to make it more difficult though I think because I want to get the TV lower so will probably have some sort of a hinge at the box for the arms that go to the front cabinets. I think I am going to try and land on the cabinet between the cabinet doors. We will see how far I take that idea. I am currently working with the idea of a 40" TV.
Be sure to get the mounts on the metal in the ceiling, the wood is not strong enough.
I have been building custom cabinets/furniture/etc for 47 years. For profit for a long time, but mostly personal and hobby for the past 20+ years as I had a full time career. I have always gotten my router bits from one of the following places. On a few occasions where I was doing match type work, ( and I was trying to be overly anally precise) I found it best to take the profile I was trying match to the actual source store and lay the bits on my sample. Sometimes what you measure, and what the bit actually does are not quite the same. Rockler and woodcraft my usual go to's since the hard paper manual days. They both do have stores you can walk into in various parts of the country.
As for matching true black walnut, that is near impossible to do just with the wood itself. I was taught very long ago, BW varies in tone based on how long the tree was allowed to grow prior to harvest. It is the only hardwood that acts this way. Walnut and Black walnut are two very different tones as well. True well aged black walnut has a purple tone to it. Ive worked with it a few times, but just dont like it much due to tone matching issue as well as the fact it is very hard on bits, often worse so than even rock maple. For a perfect match to what you have, it will take long hours/trials with various stains, etc.
If your that serious about this bit precision, make a trip out of of it. See the sites, enjoy the local cuisine, and shop for bits. We don't hesitate at all to make a road trip out of a search or purchase for an item, or even just to go out and dine. Life's an adventure, live it. Good luck.
https://www.rockler.com
Woodcraft Supply | Woodworking Hand Tools, Power Tools, Wood, Projects (https://www.woodcraft.com)
Woodline USA - Router Bits, Shaper Cutters, Woodworking Tools (https://www.woodline.com/)