Hi everyone and happy holidays.
Got up to the coach yesterday and discovered a leak just below the radiator cap possibly at the seam located an inch below.
Losing a considerable amount of fluid when the Aquahot heats up.
Any suggestions on plugging the pin hole?
I've purchased two jbweld products
-radiator weld
-high heat weld
Thanks
That pin hole is just a visible indication of worse things underneath. That heat exchanger is a pressure vessel and it has been compromised due to corrosion. It looks like it may have even been previously repaired. It needs to come out and be fully inspected, repaired as needed or replaced. Maybe at some point it was operated with plain water. At 20 plus years it is just time.
This is a good question for Rudy. Hopefully he'll chime in on the best way to address the repair.
I sealed the generator radiator fill just below the cap successfully a couple of years ago with JB weld. Wire brushed it first. Still holding. (I did not use the quick cure, but used the regular).
I actually spoke with him today.
Brazing would be best bet but I don't want to deal with an open flame.
Of course replacement is an option and it may end up that way. either way I think it needs a temporary fix just to get it somewhere for a permanent fix since that fluid gets hot when you run the coach.
Dan,
Can you be more specific as to the regular jbweld?
I can look tomorrow. I usually have on hand the qucik JB weld, and the slower healing JB Weld. It's the 2 sperate tubes, one black, one red with white in the tube.
You'll have to let it heal 24 hours with no internal pressure on it. Wire brush to bare metal.
Edit 95% sure it it this one: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-Original-Reinforced-Strength/dp/B0B5VNG2YT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=34HS45BNWX14H&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.iYlCeL-Gc7SO3uZR3c7cz0rzt27P7cJZZ9OB51nywYg8NxP2xM9Edz_-W3ElapeTxZxAY93BdYyF-GXsI_G5dX2kIOn39vr84FkKAE6JMXFaBWAqb0c5UaBegsXKh2ehswDUBLymeE2KDchSVd_72IDPSfVwnDdISSDqBXWUo_J-go4H3hR2nqX8jStGKVsgI-W6ZBPJZngxQvvy92bJre4jgbKyVUINU-x5aFoFVeA.IVAJKKT7w0g3WtmGrbaiLY3gSz8Gybyh0DFYz69j_8M&dib_tag=se&keywords=jb%2Bweld&qid=1735010236&sprefix=jb%2Bweld%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
The radiator cap filler neck is soldered onto the pipe coming out of the top of the tank. Re-soldering is a solution but very challenging in the tight location in a Foretravel. The Roger Berke filler neck kit was a great solution but no longer available.
Call me between 8 and 8 and I can describe the kit that one might be able to create.
Some pictures of the unavailable filler neck kit can be see here: RV Hydronic Heater Repair - No Solder Filler Neck Kit (https://www.parts.rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/No_Solder_Filler_Neck.html)
Thanks Steve for the picture.
Rudy mentioned it yesterday when we spoke but unfortunately it's not available anymore.
Looks like a great repair.
Where would you go to have that made today?
Maybe call a radiator shop. I would think that the need them to do some repairs.
So is this just a filler neck on a short tube that uses a silicone hose to connect it to the top of the original tube? Seems like it wouldn't be that difficult to find a filler neck and a piece of silicone tubing. A quick Google search shows lots of filler neck options. Just need the right size I'd guess?
Looks like there's a donut-shaped flat disk glued/bonded to the short tube as well - kind of a flange-looking transition from top of tank to fill neck.
I wonder - does anyone know if Roger B. is still floating around out there - maybe he could share the details now since he's no longer selling the kits?
Well
The jbweld is on.
Tomorrow I will test the Aquahot.
I also did a quick search for the aluminum cap fitting and several Options came up.
@ScubaGuy installed a Roger Berke kit on our coach 4 or 5 years ago. It's a fairly easy repair and has worked very well. ^.^d
Hi everyone,
As of now the jbweld is still tacky.
It's been in the low 40's here at night ,
should I wait another day before testing the repair?
You might use a hair dryer to warm up the metal
Yes it should be hard if cured. Heat can help as Rudy pointed out.
I did have a little heater on on the compartment last night.
How about if I turn on the electric for the Aquahot, that should warm it up slowly?
Electric element heats to a higher shutoff temp than the burner, so I wouldn't leave it on for more than 30 minutes for the initial epoxy warming.
I would wait until it is fully hardened. Can you get any heat near it? Perhaps a trouble light with an incadescent bulb?
If using the standard JB Weld, wait until it's rock hard. May take a couple of days in cool weather. They do make a faster curing version. A light bulb next to it will speed up the process. I just used it on a new taillight assembly to use the old socket into a hole where I removed the new style plug. It took until the next morning to get really hard. About 45 degree weather so I put it close to the wood stove overnight.
Pierce
Good evening everyone,
First I have to say thank you to Rudy for speaking with me many times these last few days .
THANK YOU RUDY!
Here is an update on the Aquahot situation.
Today is the 3rd day since applying jbweld.
After turning the ah on 115 AC and waiting several hours nothing was warmimg up.
Did some research in the manual and looked at the fuses but did not see anything. My manual only shows 3 thermostats but I actually have 4.
Took the cover off the thermostats and found the upper right thermostat had a burn pattern from it to the insulation which had combusted.
Not sure if the leak from the radiator fill neck had arced at the thermostat and ignited the insulation.
Contacted Rudy and he guided me through some troubleshooting on the thermostats which did not have power.
The reason being the circuit breaker at the bed had tripped(fortunately)
After resetting the cb we had power back to both thermostats and they both checked out ok electrically for the electric burner.
Turned it back on 115vac and started to feel the tank warming up.
Kept an eye on the jbweld and didn't see anything leaking from that area.
I had seen some oxidation around two of the pumps earlier but no leaking until now that the ah was running again.
I have some weeping on the outboard pump and a slow drip on the inboard pump which needs to be taken care of.
Thank you all for your input.