Are there satisfactory replacement house batteries other than Deka 1425 cca existing batteies for 99 320? Deka very expensive
Might be the time to consider LiPo (lithium) that is what I did with my '99 320
Well those DEKA's are flooded batteries and are only around $350 each. If you find that extroidinary expensive you may want to rethink your expense outlay for your coach repairs for each year. Most people go at least to an AGM battery but more go with Lithiums now days. There are too numerous to count threads on batteries both chasis and coach. Just search batteries. You may want to fill out your data profile on you and your coach for more targeted help.
What actual size are those batteries? Possible mis application! Why would CCA even be mentioned for house batteries?
I thought the same thing. The 1425's are 8D so they wouldnt work for chasis on a U320.
These are what I use. Not quite the same CCA but they are reasonable and last 5 to 8 years, if you keep water in them.
https://www.ruralking.com/rural-king-12v-commercial-heavy-duty-series-battery-cft8d-3
OEM on a 99 U320 (and many other year U320s) would have been MK gel 8D's.
At minimum, many have gone to AGM instead of gel, since its charging profile matches the engine batteries more closely (especially if they are the same as the OEM Optimas). The inverter charge profile for an MK gel will not fully charge an AGM or flooded chassis battery if one is using a Trik-L-Start or infrequent boost switch to charge up the chassis batteries.
If you maintain your house batteries an AGM will last many, many years. Ours are 16 years old and working fine. I replaced the conventional engine batteries once since we bought the coach in '08. I don't check water level as one of our maintenance free engine batteries has a label on the battery to not remove the cell covers. NAPA voids the warranty if the cell covers have been removed for any reason on their maintenance free batteries. The times that I have checked the batteries in the past, the electrolyte was full.
I've only used the boost switch once to help start the coach, otherwise, never.
Pierce
AGM's are fine, just keep them charged with a smart charger. I
Mine are 4 years old and fine
My Lifeline AGMs are 8+ years now.
The group 8D battery is a common size. They are available in many variations, engine starting, Seep cycle, combination, AGM, Gell and of now lithium variants. The better batteries such as Lifeline tend to be expensive. Lithium's are becoming extremely competitive. 300 A/H seems to be a sweet spot for them price wise.
There is a lot of talk about them needing special equipment or chargers for use. Reality is that with the BMS systems now used in most of them they really do not need anything special and they work well being at any reasonable state of charge long term. They are much more efficient accepting charge current.
If you don't need freeze protection or operation, consider dropping 2 of these.
Amazon.com: LiTime 12V 300Ah Lithium LiFePO4 Battery, Built-in 200A BMS, Max... (https://www.amazon.com/Litime-Installation-Certificates-Lifetime-Off-Grid/dp/B08K7HZ6KZ/ref=sr_1_13?crid=7TL3XS6443LB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XNaJbHFs6MfD5WyUfQ7JF-wui6QOLPPYzTsIRP-cHzwA4atcvFeEN2cHkS8kYZZS_APKO8wWZBw9WSy6krlghemhj9qR3NB4Lu72WGqFQit9WBl5fJH5TDEE-wHp59LwWlvpW4_RtvTVp5IvufQN7ikd8lMh07-0YX9sFoKL9N-MvaJSdEcm8qvvghNWTj-zwR-BCISKzoDUK2juRh-Gzi7MwOv96XVsAMnTa-80wVSy5nshAXmc0iCba3N9HVCiHByrHXo9s4MMynuooDMuA6VqHB4KXgM827Fr-kOQDGQZ4OKDQtf5TgvcmX2MWBM4Nix4nSJaIPCHVqXmnrY_HJwnohjPN-u5vFqB5fwWSPE.9g3oWlS1HTUucml9hA40mPG5zo6vuXcJphnk1gM-htc&dib_tag=se&keywords=litime&qid=1735827371&s=automotive&sprefix=litime%2Cautomotive%2C130&sr=1-13)
If you need more detail or have other concerns such as alternator compatibility let me know.
Dennis
Michelle has a good point. As many have seen, I just run a jumper from dash lighter plug to side panel plug to keep both AGM and maintenance free conventional banks charged to the same voltage. The Progressive Dynamics converter/charger keeps the voltages just about exactly as they advertise, 13.2 volts and the twin voltmeters where the tiny CRT was and gives an instant comparison at a glance. I could just make a small jumper down in the main 12V bus but this is more convenient. I remove the jumper before cranking the engine.
If we are at a campsite, the solar keeps the engine battery charges as the jumper is plugged in again.
Pierce