Having fun with brakes today! Anyone know what size the bearing nut (s) are for the rear?
I thought you guys with retarders never used your brakes.
That disc got really hot more than one time!
Wonder if the caliper wasn't fully retracting, and disc got hot from dragging pads?
We had one disc on the right rear that got ruined by a stuck caliper.
On RVs brake really never wear out. They often need to be serviced from age and lack of use. Discs and drums get readily damaged from rust with resulting pitting and then damaging the shoes. For normal driving in traffic and local use I use the brakes to exercise and test them. I use the engine or transmission brake for hose downhill runs that need braking for some period of time.
I tend to agree with you, I installed this rotor 16 years ago, pads are 4 years old and look like new, the rotor is not blue. The inside looks like new. Helper springs, the pins look like new. Oh well still
Need the bearing retainer nut size.
Can you take it off with a chisel? It shouldn't be really tight,just a little to preload the bearing.
THis probably isn't your nuts, but this site should be able to give you the part number from the axle model number.
https://www.meritorpartsxpress.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10154&urlLangId=-1&productId=1899767&urlRequestType=Base&langId=-1&catalogId=10001
Here in the Northeast stress cracks on rotors occur even on cars. Thermal cycling. Probably wet weather operation contributes to this. This is another reason that brakes should be periodically inspected and not just serviced based on pad or shoe wear. It is also a good practice that when replacing the friction parts rotor resurfacing or replacement is part of that. This ensures faster and more uniform transfer of the pad material to the rotor surface and getting the pads seated.
Removing material from a rotor to have a temporary better grip increases the temp of the rotor when braking. Personally I have never had a rotor surfaced for that reason. If it has grooves you will have more surface area for stopping,
After 40 + years in the auto/ truck repair business I have found that turning rotors just creates more issues than it fixes. If I feel it's necessary to turn a rotor I'll just replace it. The thinner they get from turning them the quicker they heat up, crack and warp. On these heavy MH rotors by the time you discover the need attention they are toast. I don't know many folks that pull the wheels on thier motor home once or twice a year to check brakes and rotors.
looks like you'd have to turn that rotor 30 Thou at least..Replace it !
Glad you found that Bruce. I pay a bunch of numbnuts at a diesel shop to do my service/inspections...I doubt they've ever gone to the lengths you did to find that impending failure. Wanna make some extra coin???
I try to pull the wheels every 2 years to have a lookie see . Sadly I'm getting to old to keep doing it.
For any who may be interested the rear axle seal is National 370003A, rotor is MERITOR 3218k167 front and rear, the rear bearing retainer nuts are 4".
Is there an instal torque or sequence that must be followed on the axle nut.
There is see the following. Adjusting nut to 200 ft lbs, while rotating the hub, back off re torque to 50 ft lbs, back off 1/4 turn. Install lock washers, torque outer nut to 200 ft lbs or so.
Torque