Ever since we got our coach about five years ago, I have hated the way Foretravel set up the tank fill with a ball valve mounted at the inside bottom of the cabinet under the sink. So I have modified the system so I can fill by flipping a switch.
I installed a motorized ball valve in parallel with the original ball valve, with a ball manual ball valve before and after the motorized one so I can easily take it out of the system and go back to the original set up. The motorized ball valve and the inside plumbing is in the space underneath the false bottom of the cabinet that is next to the toilet. I added a piece of plywood that I mounted the valves to so they won't vibrate too much and possibly leak. I like the motorized ball valve because it draws almost no power, is made to stay in the on position for long periods of time, and automatically returns to Off if the power is interrupted.
I then installed a panel with two rocker switches inside the cabinet above where I located the motorized ball valve. One switch opens the motorized ball valve that fills the tank, while the other is for another motorized ball valve that is located outside in the wet bay (more on that in a moment). The switch panel also has two USB-A ports that can operate an automatic cat feeder we keep in the bathroom, and potentially another item if needed. I tapped into the hot line that goes to the pump on/off switch for power.
In the wet bay, I installed the second motorized ball valve in the line just after the hose reel. I again put shut off valves before and after the motorized valve, as well as a bypass valve to turn the water supply on if the motorized valve is out of the system. I had previously installed two filters and a pressure regulator in the wet bay, so if I have the motorized valve off there is no pressure on any plumbing after the hose reel. I ran a two conductor wire from the area where I mounted the switch down to the outside motorized ball valve, although I haven't tied down the wiring yet..
What I like about this set up is that if I am staying somewhere long term, as I have for the last few months, I can have the water turned on at the spigot but no pressure applied to the plumbing, other than the hose reel. I can then turn it on and fill the tank from inside, and then turn it off again without leaving the coach. I can also turn it on again if I am going to shower or wash clothes and don't want to use the tank water, and then shut it off again without leaving the coach. When I am somewhere where I just want to fill the tank, I can do it without having to get down on the floor to open the manual ball valve. I considered putting switches outside as well for filling the tank, but felt it wasn't worth the trouble just to keep from going inside.
The entire cost of the materials was less than $150, not including some Pex pipe, plywood, and wire I already had on hand. It wasn't particularly hard to do the conversion. I spent less than a full day working on it, and to me it is well worth the cost and effort.
What valve did you use? That looks pretty handy.
The only issue i can see, if I'm reading it right is the filling situation. After waiting at a dump station for 45 minutes while our coach tank was filling , i vowed to solv that. I cut the fill time to 15 minutes by doing the direct fill to the tank. Several benefits that i saw were 1. Faster fill. 2. The DW can clean or shower, what ever she needs water for while I'm filling. And 3. Keeps the filling situation completely separate from all the coach plumbing if needed.
Both of the valves I used are imported and from Amazon. I might have looked at a name brand valve, but I am part of a program through which I get certain products to test and only have to pay the tax on the value. So I used what I could get that way. The materials cost I included is the cost if I had paid the full price. So far the valves have worked well. I will update this if there are any problems. Here are the links to the two valves, although one is no longer available. There are other brands available on Amazon, and I am sure from other sources as well.
Amazon.com: 1/2" Brass Motorized Ball Valve, Electric Ball Valve Full Port,... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CFQPTQXP?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6Y6F8B3?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_7
Our normal fill time is about 15-20 minutes. Once or twice we have encountered low water pressure, and it took about 30 minutes.
$33.00 for the electric ball valve delivered to the home, plus sales tax.+ foreforum will get a cut of the $33.00
The one in my coach was leaking and before I got time to take it apart I figured I would see what FOT was selling new ones for which was $286.62 + freight + 3% CC charge. I also tried to see if they had a rebuild kit, which they didn't. After tanking it apart, cleaning, reassemble, and install, it worked, did not leak. I now know if it starts to leak again I will buy one of these.
I don't know how well these valves will hold up over time, but I can't imagine paying $286 for one. The main thing I worry about with these over the long haul is that they use a capacitive charge to close the valve. I suspect if any part of these doesn't hold up, it would be that. But only time will tell, which is why I built in a manual bypass for both.