Hi everyone,
Today was the first time we have pulled our SUV behind the coach 4 wheels down. The only other time we pulled anything behind the coach was on a U Haul trailer with the same SUV on top when we first bought the coach
The SUV weighs 6k pounds with 285/75R16 tires.
Some things I noticed are the steering on the coach feels tighter.
The coach feels more planted and heavier while driving.
I don't think it felt that way when it was on the U Haul which was double axle but with thinner tires.
When I drive the SUV the alignment is fine.
The front bumper of the SUV is an aftermarket bumper from ARB with a Warn M12000 winch.
I had some tabs welded on along side the factory recovery points to accommodate the ready brute tow bar.
I also have a 12" extension on the hitch.
All 4 wheels turn freely and the front tires turn as they should during turns.
We drove slowly around the rv park yesterday to Make sure everything would be ok.
I imagine I have more rolling resistance now than when it was up on a trailer.
Is there anything else I should be looking at?
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Have you tuned the key to unlock the steering. that's the only thing I can think off. I can't feel my
toad.
Frank a word of advice, make sure you're bumper tow brackets are tied back to the vehicle frame. I had a failure while towing in Alaska where the backing plate pulled thru the ARB bumper on a 06 Jeep Liberty. Nothing mounted to the Jeep was home made all the pieces where Blue OX. It was a expensive and scary lesson also after removing the bumper for repair over 50% of the welds had cracked on both sides of the bumper. Now I won't tow a TOAD without a frame mounted base plate. Just some food for thought!
Safe Travels, Mike
You need to keep looking for cracks in / around the metals at the brackets for that you had welded for the tow bar. As stated above I had a friend almost lost his Jeep when the bumper let go where the brackets were attached.
Don't forget your tail lights on the back of toad and your toad braking.
I would run a cable around the frame and then have where your safety hooks also connect to the cable along with the hooks that are at the bottom of the bumper. If look at what Blue Ox does they give you a point to connect your safety cables to but if you look at the underside of the connection point there is a cable going around the frame in case the connector breaks loose.
Yes, the steering is unlocked.
The bumper is mounted to the frame with 6 bolts on each side. The original recovery points on the bumper are part of the steel that make the box frame that slides over the frame of the truck.
I also use safety cables rated at 12k pounds..
I will continue to look for cracks and irregularities on the bumper and attachment points on the tow bar.
Agreed here. Unless that bumper is somehow rated and documented for towing it should not be used that way. Recovery hooks and towing are not the same. Also, I did not notice if there is a supplemental, emergency braking system.
Towing a vehicle 4 wheels down presents some stresses that get compounded when pulled with a motorhome. With the extended length from the rear axle to the hitch, there are side to side motions and the pull is not straight line. As the RV changes direction, the rear first moves in the opposite direction and then follows. Even on the highway you will never travel in a perfect straight line so there are constant sideways forces on the towed vehicle. A heavy Toad with wide tires compounds the situation as the large tires cannot easily scrub sideways. I have seen hitches and chassis get damaged from the side-to-side pull. This side force issue is probably what you are feeling in the steering response.
My Grand Cherokee Diesel tows beautifully behind 3 different Motorhomes. It has a Quadra-Trac automatic transmission and free wheeling 4 wheel drive. Put it into 4 wheel neutral, turn the ignition off and lock the doors. Just do not forget to turn the ignition off. Don't ask me how I know. I parked at a Walmart late one evening and took a walk, looked back from across the parking lot and saw some strange lights from the Jeep. UH OH! No real harm done, just decreased the time between cleaning of the emissions filter on the Eco Diesel engine..
Also since my Jeep automatically goes into Park as I leave the vehicle (no steering wheel lock), I always do a couple of small S turns as I move off making the sure all wheels are turning freely and locking the tow bar arms. I honestly cannot feel any movement from the Jeep. Just see it in my camera and mirrors as I make turns.
Pulling a Land Cruiser or LX470 is ONE of the best TOADS. So easy, and I love that the key doesn't go to the ACC position, so no battery drain, and the steering doesn't lock. It's overlooked because Yota doesn't want to advertise this as a TOAD. I love my 470, as a vehicle and a TOAD.
(https://i.imgur.com/XTu8eUXl.jpeg)
I second tying back to a
reinforced frame. My setup (6,500#) tore one side of my frame on the way home from Alaska. Didn't have the Sxs in Alaska but had towed it like this for 10k miles.
Ps-don't know it's back there when pulling.
Thanks for all the replies.
I have not felt or seen any side to side motion. The only time I feel anything is when we hit some undulations , I have two hitch clamps also.
97 LX450
Are you at ride height in the last picture? Looks like the hitch of the coach might be a little bit lower than the connecting points on the bumper. I had a similar situation last summer and it caused more drag as the coach was pulling the vehicle down instead of forward. It wore the front tires down completely by the time we got to BC. I was shocked by how little angle it took.
I too was unable to feel my toad when I had the U320, except for on long uphill grades , I would notice it a little bit. It was basically thr difference between being able to pass a semi on an 7% grade and not.
Had a moment this last winter and forgot to unlock steering wheel on the jeep, didnt catch it for about 100 mile wore pass side front tire down to the cords scared the heck out of me, not to mention the burnt rubber all over the jeep, now have a bicycle light on center of the steering wheel I can see it in the camera
I am using Agrieyes wireless lights for the toad.
The last pic was just putting things together. The coach was not at ride height. I will take a pic today at a rest stop at ride height. Honestly I forgot about that when looking at everything.
Just as a note the front bumper and winch weigh in at about 175 lbs and you can tell the difference when it's not on the car and driving the car itself. There is also a 2"lift on the car
With all the info everyone has given which is greatly appreciated I'm starting to wonder if a tow dolly would be a better option? The front axle weighed in at 3040 lbs.
I'm not sure if blue ox would custom build a base plate for my truck and if I would lose any ground clearance..
Thanks again.
We put about 50,000 miles on our coach before I started towing the Wrangler. As soon as I started towing it I noticed a little more stability. I'm told it could be similar to effects of a tag axle.
Makes sense that towing might dampen some of the tail wagging.
You look good. The bracket that tow bar is connected to looks good. I don't think that you have to worry about that cracking or breaking. I would get a cable on each side wrapped around the frame and connected to the safety hooks. If you look at a blueox baseplate install video, you will see what I'm talking about.
Fatheeler, I like the idea of the bike light on the steering wheel. I'm gonna use that tip.
Just an FYI, the steering wheel locking pin is easy to remove from the Jeep ignition. If you do that, you never have to leave the key in or worry about the steering wheel locking up.
Isn't the LX470 AWD? What is the process for putting it in "neutral" tow mode?
Just put the car in neutral and shift the transfer case from high to neutral.
The pic is our 450 but our 470 is the same
I did not read where you have a braking system which is a required item with a breakaway switch.
I have an RVI brake. You can see it in the pic above
thanks for the tip pulled the tension spring seemed to keep it unlocked, still think I will use the light for awhile
Here's a pic in travel mode.
I had initially installed a 3" riser to level it out but the connection at the bumper would not have any wiggle room. Another issue with the riser was that I couldn't open the engine bay with it on.
Roadmaster and BlueOx advise not to be more than 3" out of level, and BlueOx specifically states their towbars should not be angled up towards the tow car. Not sure on ReadyBrute.
From an FMCA technical article on towing Tow Bar Forces And Alignment - Family RVing Magazine (https://familyrvingmag.com/2011/04/01/tow-bar-forces-and-alignment/)
2" in either direction for the Ready Brute Elite II
I'm definitely more than that!
time for an air ride suspension on that towed to get it lower.
Frank, I would be really concerned with the hitch extension. They are known to reduce the capacity by half. I.e. from 10k to 5k. Is there any way you can eliminate it? Jim.
I have not actually tried to tow the vehicle
Without it. Worried about the toad being to close and hitting the ladder.
Michelle posted a link above that explained the effects of the extension.
Either way I am going to get a riser, I left mine back at the storage facility, which will extend the hitch to an extent. Also trying to find a riser with the same 10k, 1k as the coach.
Another issue with a short extension/riser is I can't open the engine compartment with it on.
Some towbar manufacturers sell longer shanks for their towbars. Blue Ox does - we had to swap ours out when we added the tow skirt.
Just called NSA they don't sell shank extensions.
Frank, the angle of your tow bar is spot on with the riser. Just make sure of capacity. I know your frustration with the engine hatch. I needed to open mine on a trip due to a noise and I had to disconnect the trailer to open. Ugh! When I got home I moved the trailer jack. It may not look good but you could trim the fiberglass door to clear or just bite the bullet and remove the riser each time. As for the ladder possibly when you make a sharp turn going forward it may clear just have a spotter when checking also consider being in a dip when turning. When I had my aluminum v nose trailer made I had the tongue extended 16" and the tongue jack moved back 12". Some have damaged the lower ladder when turning. I've considered removing the lower section, keeps flannel heads from climbing up also. Jim.