Our 2013 Nimbus 4020 has cracking on top of living room slide. Had local shop cut out area, patched it and painted it.
Took it to the factory last week for other repairs and when I got home it was cracked again in the same area.
Has anyone had this issue?
Thank you
My first thought is bad repair. Get a second opinion. Jim.
My first thought is flexing/movement in the beam/structure under the FG skin that cracked.
Not sure what FG skin refers too
Had minor cracking on the back slide top and had it repaired and it seems ok
Is the design layout of the beam/structure available anywhere? Is this something Foretravel has a copy of?
I have no first hand information on slide structure, but if steel (vs aluminum) a magnet run over the outside surface will quickly tell you where the beams are.
There were probably only a couple of Nimbus (es?) built in 2013. You might try contacting Tech Support with photos of the issue. If you're not a Motorcade member, it's via e-mail only:
FORETRAVEL (https://foretravel.com/technical-support)
Will try the magnet later today
We are Motorcade members and will reach out to them.
I want to say that the slides are build with aluminum.
Do you recall what years Foretravel outsourced the slide manufacturing?
Xtreme in Nacogdoches likely has the answers as well.
The beams are not steel, tested with magnate and looked under bed and saw aluminum beams. The beams appear pretty stout. The crack is on the large kitchen-couch slide and it slides very smoothly and effortlessly.
Thinking I might just put roof sealant on it as no one can see it from the ground.
Yes, you could use a sealant, particularly if not visible.
Be sure to use one that is FLEXIBLE.
This one comes in white and black: 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000UV:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066991/
Highlights
MULTI-PURPOSE MARINE SEALANT: This medium-strength marine sealant bonds portholes, deck fittings, rub rails, screw holes, and stanchion supports while still allowing disassembly
EXCELLENT UV RESISTANCE: A distinct ability to withstand the sun's rays allows it to excel in challenging outdoor industrial, transportation, and construction environments
COLOR STABLE: Maintains its color in applications above and below the water line
FLEXIBLE BONDS: Durable elastomeric adhesion maintains joint movement and withstands stress caused by shock, vibration, swelling and shrinking
PAINTABLE WHEN WET: Forms a skin in 30-60 minutes but can be painted over with water-based paints immediately after application
Remember what ever you do, need to make sure the slide will go in and out without contacting the slides air bladder as slide goes in or out. You mess up your bladder you will end up being short a few (or more then a few) coach bucks.
Thank you for the link and the things to be concerned about. I just had the bladder replaced at the factory in December and the bedroom bladder replaced at MOT last June.
The owner of the local company that did the repair is coming by next week to take a look after he has talked with factory.
I prefer to have it done like new but if that is not an option then I will go the sealer route.
We have dealt with the coach with an open check book since we acquired it last February to the tune of 50,000. I am ok with that but want what I have had done to work. We really enjoy the coach and are continually be complimented on it's beauty. However wife is getting a little impatient with constant repairs. Hopefully we have addressed everything for now and will fall into a more even maintenance schedule. We have had an rv for over 45 years so we understand that there is always something but this has been a bit much.
Any chance you can post photos showing the issue?
Can't see anyway to post photo
Click the green reply button, then on page that opens go down and you will see place to add files
I finally found it, thank you.
The area with the large crack was totally cut out and new fiberglass & paint. About 2ft x 2ft in January of this year.
The smaller cracks on the outermost seam were also fixed on the bedroom slide and they are fine.
There are no cracks in the outer wall of slide except some faint spider web like that can only be seen if you are looking really close with sun on it.
No cracks on bottom.
Seeing both slides had cracking I thought it might be a common occurrence.
There is obviously a lot of movement in the walls and roof as they tend to make a bit of noise as temps change.
I appreciate all the input
If (OK, large IF) it would not interfere with slide opening/closing or bladder, use Eternabond over the seams.
Eternabond® | Adhesives manufacturing company (https://www.hbfuller.com/en/brands/eternabond)
Comes in 2, 3 and 4" widths.
.035" Total Thickness
Comes in white, gray, black and tan.
I don't recall reading of anyone having that issue, or at least not that they knew of or posted about.
I second Dan's suggestion to run it by James Stallings at Xtreme to see if he has thoughts (or experience) with what could be causing this and if there's a particular approach to repair he'd recommend.
I don't like how it looks like the entire top cap is shearing loose. I would only recommend covering it to prevent any water from leaking in. This can both cause deterioration and mold issues. Definitely needs to be addressed at one of the repair shops familiar with Foretravels. I'm not familiar with your coach but on the 2001 the slide to my surprise was assembled over the box frame with five pieces with seams at the location your having issues with. So wish they had built the slide like a tub as one part, not a bunch assembled. In saying this you might have an outer panel that is moving with the top being real secure? Just guessing at best
Howdy everyone
Here is the news from both Foretravel and Xtreme
Foretravel has seen this before and there fix is to use Sikaflex 221. Seal is flexible and can be sanded and painted.
Using painters tape to mask off area and then smoothing it off with something like a credit card. Can stack tape too get thicker.
Xtreme also said that they have seen this on the Nimbus. They suggested to grind out the crack all the way to the plywood, than using 3M adhesive sealant 5200. It does seem to be paintable but not sure how well it holds the paint in the long-term.
Both said that they don't paint it because it is on the top of the slide.
Not sure which way but I am leaning to Xtreme's way.
Thank you to everyone for giving me your input.
Hoping you get good results whichever way you go.
It seems to me that one of them is the "right" way of doing it and one of them is the "good enough for who it's for" way of doing it.
I have made a very successful career out of the latter
I think they're treating the symptoms not the problem. Doing a coin test is it delaminated?
This was not the issue you are having but may shed some light to what's going on. It's totally the wrong year and may be of little help
2000, 2001 slide delamination (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=44082.0)
To me, it looks like it may be the body filler ("bondo") cracking due to flexing or shrinking.
5200 is gross stuff and should never be used anywhere.
Do NOT use silicone based sealant ever on fiberglass (you'll never get anything else to stick again).
I'm a fan of polysulfide sealants.
I'd seal it up, and then hit it with a rattle can of somewhat close spray paint (to keep UV off the sealant).