I haven't finished watching this video yet but this could be a game changer...
https://youtu.be/4lvFKJIOG8I?si=VJgmur4ggkIWlqiM
And if you are interested in an evaporative (swamp) cooler that runs on 100 or less watts, check this out!
https://youtu.be/YZYke057Ahg
KOOL!
I am putting two 24 volt DC units in my new build
I think that this would beat installing a mini-split. Very interesting. Surprised he didn't go in the size of wire he ran. I am guessing he ran #8 at minimum.
Do you know much about the psychrometrics? Swamp coolers (evaporation cooling) works in places like the desert with very low relative humidity. They will not make you comfortable anywhere there is a humid summer (east coast, midwest).
What brand? A little more detail would be useful and helpful for the discussion.
Hi krush. I'm a desert kind of guy who spends most of his time in AZ, SE CA and NV. Both the Hessaire and Vevor coolers I have used have excellent and efficient fans, and those work anywhere. Also, the Vevor has a tray for ice and comes with refreezable ice packs.
In the past when it got too hot I'd go north, head to a higher elevation or go to the cooler parts of Oregon.
I can always plug in somewhere or run the generator, but I'm thinking about adding more solar panels and lifePo4 battery storage along with one or 2 of these 12 volt DC units.
Turbojack, I was interested in this video and was wondering what size wire he was using. Were you thinking # 8 was sufficient? Or do you think #6 would be needed? I believe without looking at the actual specs on the a/c. 12 volt at 360 watts would be 30 amps. On my motorhome probably 30', the route he went from refrigerator vent to the house battery.
Tom
Then yes, a swamp cooler will work well there. But it will not work well in many other place. Sit in 60F temps with 90% humidity--it is not comfortable. For comfort, relative humidity matters as much (if not more) than temperature.
I would say #8 at minimum. Since we are dealing with 12 volts, 2 motors, continues load, hot sun on roof where wire run is going to be, I would run #6.
#4 would get it under the 2% voltage drop
Thanks for the answers. If I decide to install one in the future I will do my own research. But the info provided is useful!
The math is suspect for 385watt for 10000 BTU. IMHO. I have a 12 V truck style on my van marked at about 550watts . Draws the expected 60amps at full on. The supplied cable wont power it ,even shortened. It will run for a while on ECO mode without catching fire .
I would do a t least a 24 volt version . That could work if you are happy running large cables into your roof.
I moved all of my 3 185AH large LIiron batts from the bus to the van to run this thing.
Bus now has 3 amazon 100 AH batts.
edit, watched the entire thing . Pretty good . I wonder if I could mount a solar controller on the roof and use short cables ? Inside of a rooftop vent thingy. That could work and this could run for a good while on 3-4 batts.
One could probably put a battery bank on the roof as well...
I see your point about short run from battery bank to A/C unit.
But, putting all that on the roof would be dead last on my "how to do it" list. Lead acid are HEAVY, and Li are somewhat temperature sensitive.
Good point Brett.
AI Overview:
Your Useful Guide to Li-ion Battery Operating Temperatures:
LiFePO4 batteries typically operate within a temperature range of -20°C to 60°C (-4°F to 140°F), with optimal performance between 0°C and 45°C (32°F to 113°F). While the operational range is broad, maintaining the battery within its optimal temperature range extends its lifespan and ensures safety.
These AC units have some pretty impressive reviews...
12V RV Air Conditioner – 10,000 BTU Lowprofile Rooftop Air Conditioner (https://countrymodpro.com/products/12v-10000-btu-rv-air-conditioner-top-mounted-fast-cooling-system-for-rvs-trucks-vans-campers?variant=50549355151669)
In reading there information they say to run #5 and if you can not get use #4 wire. So there is our correct answer to wire size