Has anyone had to replace their propane regulator? Appears mine has went bad . Can't get my heater to stay lit, and hardly getting and flow to the stove burners. Heater will light, then immediately go out. My propane tank was filled about a month ago. Tank shows full on tank gauge and inside electric gauge. Appears to have propane when I open tank vent. Tapped regulator. No change. Looks like a two stage regulator. Easy to change. Just don't know if it has happened to anyone else. Looks like original equipment....
If there is a propane distributor near you they will have one or a tractor supply,probably 30 to 50 bucks.
Are the regulators at a set pressure? Looks like this one is adjustable but I didn't really want to mess with the adjustment. Was going to contact FT Monday and ask about it.
Probably clogged up,they do sell an ounce gauge you can use,should be around 3 to 5 ounces.
Suggestion. Turn the vapor valve on the tank off and back on SLOWLY. It may be that the excess flow valve has shut off propane flow.
It that doesn't work RV regulators are all set to 11 column inches of water (less than one PSI).
Yes, it should be a two stage one just like you have.
IMPORTANT: the vent (round screen) must point down. So, if the regulator is installed vertical, the vent must be on the long axis of the regulator. If installed horizontally the vent must be perpendicular to the long axis.
Besides the regulator, another possible source of propane pressure problems is the safety shutoff valve. Usually mounted just downstream of the regulator. Mechanical valve operated by a solenoid with two wire 12V connector. Valve is controlled by voltage supplied from the propane sniffer inside the coach. If the valve is not fully open it might reduce or shut off flow of propane. See link below for a discussion about this device:
1988 Grand Villa Propane System (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=43370.0)
It is also possible that there could be some "propane oil" accumulated in a low spot in your propane hose or manifold. The oil, if present, could impede the flow of propane. To check, disconnect the rubber hose (between tank and manifold), hold one end pointing down. See if any oil drips out. Link below to a discussion of this topic:
Oil Accumulation in Propane System (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40088.0)
The third link (to the Escapees article) in the above mentioned thread is broken, so here is a fresh link to that article:
Oil Contamination in LP Gas Systems (https://www.escapees.com/blog/oil-contamination-in-lp-gas-systems)
Lp regulator should be set to 11" water column. You need a manometer to check it.
You connect the guage to an appliance farthest away and energize it. Gauge should read 11" regulator is adjusted to that point.
I have my own guage as I was in the business. Call a lp gas company and they should be able to check properly set it .
Or you can make your own for a couple of bucks. ;)
RV U Tube Manometer (https://www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html)
I guess you could, but being they don't seem to know how or what to do,it might be something to let someone with experience do. They can do it right and not take a chance of the tube coming loose and igniting the gas spewing from the appliance valve..but yes you could build one for sure..
Gas pressure post-regulator is less than ONE PSI (11 column inches of water).
Replaced with this one a couple months ago. Ours had developed a small leak. Working fine.
Amazon.com: AP Products Marshall Excelsior (MEGR-291 Compact Integral... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTSBYTY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)
Perfect for an installation where the regulator is orientated VERTICALLY (vent/screen on long axis of the regulator).
Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. Took apart some lines. No oil or blockage noticeable. Tried again yesterday to have tank topped off at fill station. Verified it is full. Turned adjustment/spring all the way in and out with no perceivable change of flow at appliances or downstream of regulator. Will be replacing the regulator today. Let you know the outcome. If it's not that, ....?
Does your coach still have the electronic fuel shut off valve hooked up? If your is still there check to see if it is functioning properly if not you can remove the plunger and re-try.
Mike
I added a quick disconnect T fitting after my dual stage regulator, to be able to connect propane griddles and other accessories. I could barely get the griddle to light. Replaced the regulator and now it works as expected. This is the one I bought:
Camco-Vertical-2-Stage-Propane-Regulator (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Vertical-2-Stage-Propane-Regulator/29764662)
Looking now, it's a vertical and I have it mounted horizontally. Hmm. It's been in and working since 2021.
It will work unless the combination of cool ambient temperatures, gas flow and humidity cause the vent to FREEZE UP WITH ICE. At that point, gas pressure is no longer regulated!
That is why they make the to different styled-- usually at exactly the same price.
All this was explained to me by an engineer at Marshall Gas 28 years ago when I worked with him to convert the generator from liquid to vapor propane to eliminate the long hydrocarbon contaminants in the propane from clogging the in-generator regulator.
Well, had regulator replaced today and ..... fixed. The new regulator is like in kind. Two stage vertically mounted. Looked at the diaphragm inside the old , original regulator and it had become pretty gummy over its 26 years of service. Inside was like a brown varnish. Not sure what it should have looked like, but new one put us back in business. Thanks everyone for the help.