Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: rvquestion on June 09, 2025, 11:43:24 pm
Title: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 09, 2025, 11:43:24 pm
Hi I am a retired Truck driver.
I just purchased a 1998 FT U295, my first ever RV which I know nothing about, so will have bunch of questions to learn how things work and how I can enjoy It.
Here is my first question: Where is the most common source of air getting in fuel system?
I have to prime every time I start the engine. Does an electric priming motor on the water separator fix the problem? If yes how should be connected to wiring system?
But I prefer to fix the problem rather than spend $$ on the electric priming pump.
Thanks Edmond 1998 Foretravel U 295 California
(Moderator Jeff edited title for clarity)
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on June 10, 2025, 07:09:02 am
On a '98 year model coach you need to check primary fuel filter/water separator and fuel lines. If the old style Racor fuel filter check the Orings that seal off the internals. If fuel lines haven't been replaced check for splitting around the fittings as the ULS fuel we have now kills these older hoses.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on June 11, 2025, 09:21:04 am
So I agree in seeking an affordable way to resolve your air admittance issue. Mike has given exactly what the issue probably is but your coach has a CAPs fuel injection pump and it will suffer issues by being forced to draw the fuel from the tank leading to the symptoms you are currently having. I had replaced my fuel lines and still found I needed to vent the air out if the coach set for awhile. I have since installed a FASS fuel pump. It changed how the coach restarts by having continuous fuel pressure to the engine fuel injection pump. Went out last week to move the coach and fired right up after months of non use. This also will show any leak points after the FASS as an actual fuel leak instead of an air admittance point. This positive pressure will also extend your CAPs fuel pump life and reliability. Yep it's not a cheap resolution but may actually save you money over the long haul.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Realmccoy on June 11, 2025, 04:19:51 pm
He may or may not have the CAPS fuel system. My 98 U270 has a 12 valve C8.3 with no computer. Run your engine serial number through Cummins Quickserve unless you can eyeball the different engines accurately. Foretravel had a stock of engines and the U270 and 295s got the ISC when they ran out of C8.3s to my understanding.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 12, 2025, 11:30:00 am
I am new in this, what is CAPs and what is FASS Are they brand name or abbreviations
Thanks mike, since i just purchased the FT i will replace the fuel and water separator filters also will check the hose ends for splits
If time come to replace the fuel delivery hose Are there any zip ties holding it in frame? Can it be pulled out? Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dbennett9 on June 12, 2025, 12:44:44 pm
I am new in this, what is CAPs and what is FASS Are they brand name or abbreviations
CAPS is a fuel injection system that Cummins used around the time your coach was built. Without going into the details, I highly recommend you find out whether your coach has the CAPS system. If it does, you should definitely install the FASS system. FASS is an aftermarket fuel pump/filter system that supplies a positive fuel flow to the main injection pump rather than relying on the pump maintaining suction from the fuel tank. If you do have the CAPS system, then rather than replacing the current fuel filter you would be better off installing the FASS system (you can find more information online by googling FASS). The CAPS system is prone to failures due to fuel restriction or fuel starvation, and if it fails it can be very costly. My CAPS pump failed about 18 months ago and it cost me around $15,000 to have it replaced. The FASS system is not cheap at $700 - 800, but it sure beats 15K. If you do end up deciding to install the FASS system, feel free to message me if you have any questions.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 12, 2025, 01:23:35 pm
Is FASS an electric fuel pump or an electric priming fuel water separated?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on June 13, 2025, 05:27:06 pm
Is FASS an electric fuel pump or an electric priming fuel water separated?
FASS Diesel Fuel Filter Selector - FASS Diesel Fuel Systems | In God We Trust (https://fassride.com/products/product-finder-2/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22391998995&gbraid=0AAAAADrMBFYMitCuVZPKLo9C3kmWxCetB&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjrf8k6vvjQMVhC1ECB0InClAEAAYASAAEgJyUfD_BwE)
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on June 13, 2025, 05:37:46 pm
I just purchased a 1998 FT U295, my first ever RV which I know nothing about, so will have bunch of questions to learn how things work and how I can enjoy It.
Here is my first question: Where is the most common source of air getting in fuel system?
I have to prime every time I start the engine. Does an electric priming motor on the water separator fix the problem? If yes how should be connected to wiring system?
But I prefer to fix the problem rather than spend $$ on the electric priming pump.
Thanks Edmond 1998 Foretravel U 295 California
(Moderator Jeff edited title for clarity)
Sorry I didnt notice that you were a first time poster. Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your purchase. You and I being new to a Foretravel will be exposed to many problems that generations of prior owners have already encountered and resolved. The amount of information that is available is amazing. I recommend bookmarking subjects that are interesting so you can find them again. At the top of this page and every page is a valuable tool. It is the search box. I literally use it daily when encountering a problem. May take several ways of key words but it is very informational. I used the search box to actually figure out what coach model I wanted or equally which models I didnt want. Again Congratulations. Scott
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Michelle on June 13, 2025, 06:05:30 pm
To add to Scott's welcome and great advice - please ask all the questions you have. Believe me, for every question that gets asked, at least 10 members have the same one. And if it's a new question, it adds to the knowledge base for future search users.
Michelle
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: fourdayoff on June 14, 2025, 10:52:52 am
Edmond, your original question was about air getting into your fuel system that you suspect having to prime it each time you start it. Good possibility. Some earlier coaches had problems with poor fuel lines, I think Michelle knows the years that were bad. The FASS system could mask this and help with your symptoms. Replacing your fuel lines is a big project, just ask Scott and others. If it were me I would find a way to disconnect the fuel lines and apply a vacuum to the line to diagnose. I installed the FASS system on my 2002 295 because of the CAPS lift pump, I would rather spend the $1,500.00 now rather than $10,000.00-$15,000.00 later on the road. Great to see you here and hope you get it resolved. Jim.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: jlallen on June 14, 2025, 11:32:08 am
Sorry to Hi-Jack this thread. Did all you fuel line replacement folks (which I want to do ASAP) do the work your self? If so how did you access the fuel tank and how long did the job take to complete?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on June 14, 2025, 12:03:24 pm
The McCoy's had fuel lines replaced at Foretravel. They said it was going to take over a day. They had it done before end of day one.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on June 14, 2025, 02:00:38 pm
John,
On a 320 it takes about 2 days for 3 of us forum members to get the hoses replaced. With you having a 270 it won't take as long due to no Aqua hot hoses to deal with. So for me I can do a 270 in a day or so but I have done several coaches. Really not a big technical job just filthy.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on June 14, 2025, 03:29:45 pm
Sorry to Hi-Jack this thread. Did all you fuel line replacement folks (which I want to do ASAP) do the work your self? If so how did you access the fuel tank and how long did the job take to complete?
Yes it's a big job, but it is doable. Having a second set of hands will help. You need to have enough room to pull the tank out of the side of the coach. Need to have safety stands. Need to have something to set the tank on at coach level. I used my forklift. I can imagine it could be done in a day if it wasn't your first one. Need to have the tank empty to pull it out. I filled up a spare 55 gallon can and my truck several times to empty. Also with the tank removed I would recommend taking the time to clean the fuel bay out and seal up all the corners. Check any thru vent tubes to make sure they are secure and the screens are in place. Allow extra time to do the job, there will be addional needs. I also used a come-a-long to assist pulling the tank out. Also it must be lifted to clear the drain plug to prevent damaging the floor. I added an extension to facilitate draining if I ever wanted to but doubt I'll ever need it. Having some crows feet for the lines may be handy. This also would be the time to address adding a FASS system or equivalent. U320 will have a fuel cooler, this will add additional lines that need to be replaced also. I have no clue what your coach has.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 14, 2025, 11:40:15 pm
thank you Scott , i am learning to use the forum and search for my questions for example you mentioned you bookmarking , can you tell me how? I am learning how to use Fore forum too
Sorry I didnt notice that you were a first time poster. Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your purchase. You and I being new to a Foretravel will be exposed to many problems that generations of prior owners have already encountered and resolved. The amount of information that is available is amazing. I recommend bookmarking subjects that are interesting so you can find them again. At the top of this page and every page is a valuable tool. It is the search box. I literally use it daily when encountering a problem. May take several ways of key words but it is very informational. I used the search box to actually figure out what coach model I wanted or equally which models I didnt want. Again Congratulations. Scott
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 15, 2025, 01:28:38 am
ok, beside having air in the system which is an issue by itself, I have another issue which combines with it when i was purchasing this FT, i went by to see it and check it out, i liked the shape and condition it was in, but they had misplaced the heys for it and i was not able to see it running or test drive it, seller next day sent me a video showing the engine running i asked, did you find the keys? the answer was no, but we called a locksmith and he replaced the whole ignition switch with a new one. later the rest of the keys were located and i was able to test drive and purchase the rv i drove it for 200 miles to my home, as of next day I started it every day after work and it would start right up it was the third or forth time that it was sitting more than a day, and it died less than a minute after I had started it ok, what any of you would think beside running out of fuel i added 20 gallon of fuel in the tank and assuming it will need to be primed ( because it had run out of fuel ) I primed it and it started up . very happy problem solved right? next day it started right up but it died again after less than a minute for sure this time the reason couldn't be" out of fuel" after learning about shut off fuel solenoid job I thought the solenoid its what was causing not to start, not the air getting in the fuel system replaced the solenoid with one for 123.00 ( Larryb's brand ) not a 26.00 made in china one after this, i drove it 24 miles round trip to install new tires on it, and one more time for about 30 miles giving a ride to my grand kids . everything was normal until it set for three days and then it took priming to start ( make the story short it would start if its not sitting more than one night ) today , assuming will take priming I did prime the system and noticed its cranking but not starting, back to the engine compartment i noticed the solenoid it in shut off position while the ignition key was on, I pushed the solenoid arm up , it stayed there ( by hand not by switch being turned to on ) cranked it up and it started but agin it died after less than a minute when i troubleshooted the matter, I noticed the solenoid has closed killing the engine assuming the new solenoid may have gone bad, I replaced it with the original one which I had removed, same thing happened i am thinking one of the following is happening A- the solenoid is weak and after engine starts, the vibration makes it close B- the power coming from the switch somehow gets disconnected C-the power gets disconnected at the solenoid harness by engine vibration sometimes? so, i know i have to find the source of air getting in the fuel system , but i like to have this solenoid issue fixed first could the new ignition switch installed by the seller cause the power loss? if this has happened to any of you I appreciate your advise to fix the issue properly my conclusion is that solenoid gives up after starting the engine ( remember it was not happening before when i drove it twice ) by the way when i decided to install the old solenoid i felt heat in the solenoid i was removing? also my question is why when the ignition key is turned to on position the solenoid does not open the valve but when i push it up it holds it holds it up ( this tells me power comes to solenoid when key is in on position but not strong enough to pull up the valve, also it disappears shortly after engine runs . thank you guys all edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: wolfe10 on June 15, 2025, 07:51:02 am
Pretty easy to diagnose:
Pull out your voltmeter and some wire with alligator clips.
Black wire of voltmeter to good ground.
Red wire to Trigger wire that closes/activates at the ignition solenoid.
If voltage when the ignition solenoid fails is 12+ VDC, the solenoid is bad (unlikely of the BlueSea one).
If voltage goes from 12+ to low/0 when this happens, the ignition switch or power to the switch is the issue.
If switch suspected, do the same test on the positive into the ignition switch.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Michelle on June 15, 2025, 10:29:14 am
Edmond, your original question was about air getting into your fuel system that you suspect having to prime it each time you start it. Good possibility. Some earlier coaches had problems with poor fuel lines, I think Michelle knows the years that were bad.
It's all anecdotal knowledge from reading the forum, but it's coaches prior to 2002. I've only once read of someone with a 2002 or later that needed to replace fuel lines. Somewhere along the line I recall reading that the fuel line material changed around 2002.
You could practically follow the waves of model year where folks were having to replace the lines. There would be a batch of 1996 coaches, then 6-12 months later it would be posts about 1997s, and so on.
That said, this is all in a timeframe roughly 8-14 years ago. Dave Stevens' post comes to mind
Old Fuel Lines (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16988.msg111378#msg111378)
ETA - which made it dawn on me that if fuel lines were needing replacement at 10 years, and the same material lines were used, then once again the lines would be around the 10 year mark and it might be time for "round two".
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on June 16, 2025, 10:06:28 am
thank you Scott , i am learning to use the forum and search for my questions for example you mentioned you bookmarking , can you tell me how? I am learning how to use Fore forum too
At the top of this page is a bookmark tab. To access it later go to the top of any page and open the MY ACCOUNT tab and open bookmarks to access.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 16, 2025, 10:15:52 am
thank you , i will do the test , but what is the power from the ignition switch is weak for holding the solenoid up? what cab cause that? is there a relay in this circuit? edmond
At the top of this page is a bookmark tab. To access it later go to the top of any page and open the MY ACCOUNT tab and open bookmarks to access.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 16, 2025, 10:50:54 am
i am planing to replace the hose not knowing when or if was replaced by previous owner i saw in some pictures of 12 years ago by J.D.Stevens, the tank was pulled half way out to reach and replace the hose and the fittings ( i wonder why the fitting and connection of the fuel supply hose was not designed to be close the side for easy access) in order to do so i have the following questions A- does the hose have to be disconnected from the engine side to allow tank being pulled out? B- is the existing hose being secured by zip ties or clamps in the tunnel ? if yes how to remove those? C- when pulling the tank half way out, does the hose going to generator need to be disconnected to allow tank to come out? D- my FT is a 36 feet , how many feet of hose do i need to order E- if i want to replace the generator hose as well, is it the same hose? and how long of hose does it need F- the J.D.Stevens who posted pictures 12 years ago ,was suggesting to replace the fittings as well , it will be helpful to have part number for such fittings and all other adopters etc. also to know if the new hose will need the new fitting to be crimped on it ? any guideness and instruction can help me do it myself and do it right
On a 320 it takes about 2 days for 3 of us forum members to get the hoses replaced. With you having a 270 it won't take as long due to no Aqua hot hoses to deal with. So for me I can do a 270 in a day or so but I have done several coaches. Really not a big technical job just filthy.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 16, 2025, 06:37:14 pm
lets update the issue -open ignition switch to on position -solenoid has not retract to open the fuel valve - pushing up the leverage by hand, it retracts and stays there - go back to cab, crank the engine, it starts but dies shortly - leave the ignition key in ON position and go back to the engine - solenoid is pupped out
after Wolfe 10 posting that the problem could be the power getting disconnected from solenoid , my assumption is , it can be the electronic portion of the ignition switch , bad point contact inside, loose harness connection, not providing good contact properly in ON position ( old and worn out )
planing to replace it with a new 50.00 part to eliminate one of possible causes remember there could be no broken wire in the circuit, o have been driving it last week end, i also have been starting it two or three times a week since i purchased it
any confirmation before i attempt ? Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on June 16, 2025, 07:50:02 pm
Do you own a volt meter. Do you know how to read voltage Read the voltage at the solenoid. Jump the solenoid with a jumper. Does it open? CZJZDZ 5pcs Alligator Clips Electrical Test Leads Dual Ended Crocodile Wire... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B9ZWRQ6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1)
REF: When they replaced your ignition switch, they actually probably only changed the key part of the switch. 1970 Chevy .
Typically low voltage issue will be within the first ten feet from the batteries in both the power and ground cables. Everything down stream from these drops will add to the loss.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 17, 2025, 10:01:36 am
thank you Scott, again i may be dumb, but i don't understand what you mean by talking about first ten feet of battery cables, i don't know what should I do? do i replace both battery cables? are they causing low voltage? i have a cigaret lighter plug in voltmeter which shows 13.4 volt on the dash , I am having hard time communicating on forum , is there a chance you can text me to 209-277-0772 which I can probably call you and learn the troubleshooting procedure? by the way I know they just changed the tumbler on my ignition switch, the reason I am suspicious of the electronic portion is, that i was able to drive the rv 200 miles after was purchased, and i was starting the engine every couple days to keep the batteries charged, the batteries are dated 12/24 only 6 months old, i am sure some how power gets disconnected from solenoid causing engine to die, it didn't happen every time i started it,(why) it happened once when i thought i have bad solenoid and replaced it three weeks ago, and it happened again couple days ago question is , what can be the reason of sudden loosing power in solenoid harness? my poor knowledge says, may be a bad relay ( if any in that circuit) or a bad connection in the 3 wire harness itself or the ignition switch contact if you can text me ( i normally don't answer phone calls assuming are scam calls) i can call you to discuss it, i appreciate your help Edmond
Do you own a volt meter. Do you know how to read voltage Read the voltage at the solenoid. Jump the solenoid with a jumper. Does it open? CZJZDZ 5pcs Alligator Clips Electrical Test Leads Dual Ended Crocodile Wire... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B9ZWRQ6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1)
REF: When they replaced your ignition switch, they actually probably only changed the key part of the switch. 1970 Chevy .
Typically low voltage will be within the first ten feet from the batteries in both the power and ground cables. Everything down stream from these drops will add to the loss.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on June 17, 2025, 10:23:01 am
The 13.4 volts is a good indication. Now take your voltage indicator and put it in the second plug and read that voltage. One cigarette lighter plug for the start batteries and the other is for house batteries.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Realmccoy on June 17, 2025, 12:11:59 pm
Your fuel solenoid has two coils, the pull and the hold. There are three wires, ground, pull, and hold. When you turn the key on, the hold is hot and stays hot until the key is off. The pull coil is activated by the starter position of switch, so it turns off when you release the starter and the engine begins to run and the solenoid remains open with the hold coil active.
If the switch is on, but the starter has not been engaged, the solenoid will not open to allow fuel to flow to the engine. If the starter has been engaged and the key is left in the run position, the fuel solenoid should be fully open until you turn the key to off. If it starts and dies then you may have low voltage at the hold coil.
You could have a bad ground (black wire to solenoid), low voltage at the white or red wires, or to both. You could make up a test pig tail to go between the solenoid and coach connector and then run the test lead connection to front of bed where a helper could monitor the voltage as you are starting and driving. Once it starts and stays running, you will only have voltage at the hold side of coil. If it is low or starts to drop off when you start driving that can lead to low performance or even a complete lack of fuel as the solenoid starts to close down.
With the solenoid unplugged, you can also check the resistance of both the pull and hold sides of the coil, both your original and new. Email Larry B, he can tell you what resistance is normal. You could also test resistance of the ground wire when unplugged. Give it a wiggle and see if it goes up.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 18, 2025, 10:03:52 am
good help, but i dont see any one answering my question can the hoses going to engine and generator allow to pull the tank out? are they long enough? are they zip tied or free to pull? Edmond
Yes it's a big job, but it is doable. Having a second set of hands will help. You need to have enough room to pull the tank out of the side of the coach. Need to have safety stands. Need to have something to set the tank on at coach level. I used my forklift. I can imagine it could be done in a day if it wasn't your first one. Need to have the tank empty to pull it out. I filled up a spare 55 gallon can and my truck several times to empty. Also with the tank removed I would recommend taking the time to clean the fuel bay out and seal up all the corners. Check any thru vent tubes to make sure they are secure and the screens are in place. Allow extra time to do the job, there will be addional needs. I also used a come-a-long to assist pulling the tank out. Also it must be lifted to clear the drain plug to prevent damaging the floor. I added an extension to facilitate draining if I ever wanted to but doubt I'll ever need it. Having some crows feet for the lines may be handy. This also would be the time to address adding a FASS system or equivalent. U320 will have a fuel cooler, this will add additional lines that need to be replaced also. I have no clue what your coach has.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Michelle on June 18, 2025, 10:38:14 am
While a 40' U320 (so AquaHot as an added bonus), this topic has some good photos of the process
Fuel hose replacement post (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=35249.0)
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on June 18, 2025, 12:23:16 pm
1. can the hoses going to engine and generator allow to pull the tank out? 2. are they long enough? 3. are they zip tied or free to pull?
Edmond, 1. Half way out. This will allow you to access the hose fittings on top of the tank. Once loose then you can pull the tank the rest of the way out. You can leave the tank setting half way out but you will find that it will be in the way causing undue frustration. 2. Refer to #1 3. all I have seen are just laying in the table tray. With out the Aqua Hot unit I have in the past been able to just tie new hose to the old hose and pull in the new hose into place.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on June 18, 2025, 07:10:20 pm
I agree with Mike. I had several 55 gallon drums and on one coach, needed to have 4. It was a u320 with aqua hot and the tank was full when he brought it to me. I usually changed them by myself and it is truly a dirty job.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 19, 2025, 01:46:55 am
they both read 13.4 volt is there any relay in the solenoid circuit? a bad relay can have such power issue? ok, i keep reading on Furom there are two coils in the solenoid ignition key in on position ,supplies power to one of the coils to lifts the plunger, and fuel valve opens why there should be a second magnetic coil? why there is a coil to lift the plunger and one to hold it up? couldn't the one pull the plunger up, and keeps it up?
if the plunger is up already ,why there is a need for second wire and second coil ? there was fuel there already when key was turned to ON position right? I really like to understand things rather than just accept them
otherwise, if i unplug the solenoid and tie the plunger up with a zip tie, the engine will run? i assume yes, but will not shut off unless the zip tie removed please correct me if following explanation is wrong the solenoid should receive power ,in bot ignition switch positions, ON and START. that is why there are two wires going to solenoid because if the power was coming to solenoid from ignition in START position only, after engine starts and the ignition key is released, the key returns to ON position which the engine would have shut off , unless there is power sill going to solenoid that is why there are two coils in solenoid if the engine dies short period after starting , means the power from ignition key in ON position gets lost what can cause it? bad connection inside the electronic part of ignition switch if not what else? now, if there is no power coming to solenoid from the ignition switch in ON position, when the key is turned to ON the plunger will not retract then how come after I turn the key to ON, and go back by the engine, i see the plunger down and not retracted, this should be a proof that there is no power coming to solenoid right? but when i push the plunger up it stays up any explanation? ( it does the same with two different solenoid so plunger is not sticky) ok after pushing plunger up by hand, and holds up , i start the engine and it dies after seconds , go back to the engine, i see plunger down while the key was left in ON position how to fix this properly , its ruining my nerves, its not going to get solved with voltmeter , voltmeter will tell me there is no 12 volt power present , but what causes that? please hep finding and fixing the problem not troubleshooting thank you all Edmond
The 13.4 volts is a good indication. Now take your voltage indicator and put it in the second plug and read that voltage. One cigarette lighter plug for the start batteries and the other is for house batteries.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on June 19, 2025, 10:53:54 pm
ok all these make sense, than how come when I open the ignition key to ON position and go back check solenoid, I see the plunger down, this proves what you explain , but please answer this, before i turn the key to start, I push the plunger up and stays there ( this proves that the first hold coil work right? i start the engine , it starts , but dies in 30 seconds or less what this tell me? specially when I go back and see the plunger is down when the key is not turned off yet why this happens when: tank has fuel i prime the system before attempting to start the engine solenoid hold with key ON same with second solenoid
Your fuel solenoid has two coils, the pull and the hold. There are three wires, ground, pull, and hold. When you turn the key on, the hold is hot and stays hot until the key is off. The pull coil is activated by the starter position of switch, so it turns off when you release the starter and the engine begins to run and the solenoid remains open with the hold coil active.
If the switch is on, but the starter has not been engaged, the solenoid will not open to allow fuel to flow to the engine. If the starter has been engaged and the key is left in the run position, the fuel solenoid should be fully open until you turn the key to off. If it starts and dies then you may have low voltage at the hold coil.
You could have a bad ground (black wire to solenoid), low voltage at the white or red wires, or to both. You could make up a test pig tail to go between the solenoid and coach connector and then run the test lead connection to front of bed where a helper could monitor the voltage as you are starting and driving. Once it starts and stays running, you will only have voltage at the hold side of coil. If it is low or starts to drop off when you start driving that can lead to low performance or even a complete lack of fuel as the solenoid starts to close down.
With the solenoid unplugged, you can also check the resistance of both the pull and hold sides of the coil, both your original and new. Email Larry B, he can tell you what resistance is normal. You could also test resistance of the ground wire when unplugged. Give it a wiggle and see if it goes up.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on June 20, 2025, 12:25:48 am
Break out your code reader and I bet you will find a failed coolant level sensor or one that is working and you have low coolant. This feature allows you to move a damaged vehicle out of the road 30 seconds at a time. FYI I never figured out how to bypass, but I did try. Also I keep a spare sensor in the coach because your not going anywhere without one
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: MarkC on June 20, 2025, 08:10:56 pm
I think your probably on to something about the coolant sensor Scott. By the way Scott, do you remember the Cummins Part Number for the Coolant Sensor by chance?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dbennett9 on June 20, 2025, 10:35:27 pm
I had a coolant level sensor issue and the coach acted just like the OP described. It would start fine, run for maybe 30 seconds, and then die. The only thing different from what the OP described is that I would get a red shut down engine warning light.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on June 21, 2025, 01:09:21 am
I think your probably on to something about the coolant sensor Scott. By the way Scott, do you remember the Cummins Part Number for the Coolant Sensor by chance?
Go to the Cummins page and check for your serial number. I think they may be the same.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: wolfe10 on June 21, 2025, 07:58:01 am
after Wolfe 10 posting that the problem could be the power getting disconnected from solenoid , my assumption is , it can be the electronic portion of the ignition switch , bad point contact inside, loose harness connection, not providing good contact properly in ON position ( old and worn out )
If the ignition switch is going to "no power out" to the ignition solenoid, the Allison shift pad would be dark/nothing illuminated.
Is that the case?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: fourdayoff on June 21, 2025, 02:50:26 pm
Mark, I googled the part # that is on mine and this is what I came up with, not many sources. I ordered one just to carry. Jim. Advance Truck Parts 085927C001 Minitek Coolant Level Sensor × 1
Title: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: rvquestion on July 21, 2025, 02:19:21 pm
[Merge here - Michelle]
Dear members, I would rather to troubleshoot the problem before I go to mechanics and spend money for no reason More likely this has happened to some of you I tried to give a short history again. I had listed this question before but today I started it as a new topic again. And I purchased this RV in April. I drove it for close to 200 miles home no issues. The day after every day, I started it to keep the batteries alive. Let it run for 30 minutes while I was busy familiarizing myself with it. Then time came to install tires. I did drove it about 30 miles round-trip to a tire shop. Two weeks after that, my grandkids came to us. They wanted to have a short ride with it. I pulled it out of the storage and drove it about 20 miles with them. Recently, it start having the issue of not starting First, I thought I ran out of diesel. I put 20 gallon of diesel in the tank and prime the system using the rubber pump on water separator. It did it again next time I replaced the solenoid valve first, assuming that is killing it With the new solenoid, it happened the same thing I went under the engine, noticed that the fuel pump or Transfer fuel pump was leak leaking Assuming this could be the cause I replaced the pump with the new Cummins one
While doing so I replaced the hose between water separator, and the lift pump with a new one and New connectors Yesterday I installed a new fuel filter and a new water separator filter in case if the leak was from them After priming it up , we started the engine with my friend's Help. It started running and we let it run for at least 15-20 minutes before we left the Storage. I assumed the problem is solved this morning. I went back there to give it a try. It didn't start as quick and sharply as it would before It took a couple of cranks before it started Assuming it is fixed, I went to the bedroom to finish organizing the bed covers since we had the mattress lifted yesterday
All of a sudden, the engine died on me I tried to restart it , it didn't I went back to the engine, touched the rubber pump on the water separator, it felt soft. There was air in the system again. I will appreciate if any of you have had such an issue and finally found the problem As I mentioned, I don't want to keep spending money by calling different mechanics Will appreciate any help I already heard about the hose delivering fuel from tank to the engine bay Could that be the issue? ( it may be, but I'm not sure if the previous owner has replaced that hose during his ownership and I don't know how to find out either. There are no records.) This wasn't a happy starting with purchasing an RV
Thank you all Edmond 1998 U295
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: Pamela & Mike on July 21, 2025, 02:45:40 pm
Are the fuel hoses Aeroquip? If so they are most likely OEM as most people replace with a different hose. If you can't tell what brand hose you have post a pic. as we might be able to tell by looking as Aeroquip has a distinctive jacket wrap. I'm betting on bad hose.
Mike
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: Andrei on July 21, 2025, 03:52:22 pm
It has a small air leak and that allows the fuel in the hose to return to the tank. One fix is to locate the leak and fix it by following the fuel lines with the engine running. You might find a minor wet spot. Other fix is to add and electric fuel pump that will lift the fuel and eliminate the air when you turn the key. With pump running you can look for the wet spot and locate the minor leak. Have fun
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: red tractor on July 21, 2025, 06:50:35 pm
You can look where the hose is slipped over the fittings. If you see any small cracks, then you have found your problem. Being a 98 if original hoses, that would be my guess. I have changed quite a few in those years. This new fuel was not kind to the hoses. If you see those cracks, then remove the tank and replace both hoses to the engine and both hoses to the generator.
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: erniee on July 22, 2025, 07:54:52 am
Is the coach plugged in at the storage facility?
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on July 22, 2025, 10:24:41 am
Lots of places for a minor but significant air to enter the fuel system. I would check to make sure the fuel filter are tight. Last month before a trip, I used the hand pump to build pressure and found the primary filter gasket between the filter and the see through plastic drain was allowing diesel to leak on the ground. The ends of fuel lines are suseptable to cracking and may allow air to enter. To isolate the problem, you can pressurize the system and look for seeping or buy a mityvac, isolate the different sections of hose connections and just watch the gauge. Lift/fuel pumps on a Cummins engines can leak internally (to crankcase) so isolating the fuel pump to check for leakage is never a bad idea.
If our coach has been sitting for a couple of weeks, I used the hand pump to build pressure until I force any air past the relief valve and back to the fuel tank. Avoids extended cranking as it always starts instantly after that. Others have installed electric fuel pumps to do the same thing.
Tom Hall has an excellent site with a schematic and part numbers to add an electric pump to any coach: Tom Hall (https://www.coachconversioncentral.com/tomhall.htm)
Pierce
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: dsd on July 22, 2025, 11:18:01 am
Starting a new post is very confusing in regards to what you have done in your prior post. Very good information was given but we don't know what you have done. 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=49434.msg497610#msg497610) You mentioned that you are a retired professional OTR driver. You may have some contacts in your prior service department that may be able to also help. Staying methodical will result in a resolution. Every time you touch the fuel delivery system you possibly add additional issues. I understand it may be confusing but you are needing to resolve the leaks that you don't see. They are in the suction line from the tank to the engine driven fuel pump. This is were air is admitted into the fuel system. None is permissible. Have you checked for engine codes? Running one minute and shutting off may be a low coolant issue as mentioned prior. If you have active leaks that you can see they must be resolved before you can go any father. My personal resolution was new fuel lines and a FASS filter and constant operation lift pump. Suspect you too will follow similar to what so many others have done.
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: rvquestion on July 22, 2025, 11:28:55 am
Which existing filter replace the FASS filter? And what it does? Sorry not familiar with FASS Being a retired truck driver i have access to three truck shops, none work on RV
Starting a new post is very confusing in regards to what you have done in your prior post. Very good information was given but we don't know what you have done. 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=49434.msg497610#msg497610) You mentioned that you are a retired professional OTR driver. You may have some contacts in your prior service department that may be able to also help. Staying methodical will result in a resolution. Every time you touch the fuel delivery system you possibly add additional issues. I understand it may be confusing but you are needing to resolve the leaks that you don't see. They are in the suction line from the tank to the engine driven fuel pump. This is were air is admitted into the fuel system. None is permissible. Have you checked for engine codes? Running one minute and shutting off may be a low coolant issue as mentioned prior. If you have active leaks that you can see they must be resolved before you can go any father. My personal resolution was new fuel lines and a FASS filter and constant operation lift pump. Suspect you too will follow similar to what so many others have done.
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on July 22, 2025, 11:45:05 am
If you don't have a frame mounted hand fuel pump or don't want to put new seals in the one you have, this filter combination fills the bill: Primary Fuel Filter S3202 Pump for sale | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=primary+fuel+filter+S3202+pump&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_odkw=primary+fuel+filter+bowl+pump&_osacat=0). For $49.99 plus tax, you get a S3202 Racor or equiv., a 30 micron primary filter with clear bowl and drain plus the hand pump and exactly like many U300s have with the addition of the easy to use hand pump.
If you look at the clear bowl after fueling and with the engine running, it's easy to spot any water or algae that you may have bought with the fuel. The gasket between the clear bowl and the filter is the one that was leaking diesel on our coach before a trip last month.
Pierce
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: dsd on July 22, 2025, 12:01:08 pm
1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=49434.msg497640#msg497640)
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: Michelle on July 22, 2025, 12:09:04 pm
Starting a new post is very confusing in regards to what you have done in your prior post. Very good information was given but we don't know what you have done. 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=49434.msg497610#msg497610)
See this topic as well with history on the need to prime the coach's engine for each start Fuel transfer pump (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=49528.0)
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: rvquestion on July 22, 2025, 05:04:44 pm
MIKE, where is the best location that I can take pictures from the hoses? I probably can do take pictures from generator because some hoes are exposed there The ones on the fuel tank even hard to see on the engine side which hoses are the one I should take picture of which one is the fuel delivery line? I believe the one that brings fuel to primary filter? Or to water separator.? And which one would be the return line? Just give me a hint what you look for to take picture of and share them with you
Are the fuel hoses Aeroquip? If so they are most likely OEM as most people replace with a different hose. If you can't tell what brand hose you have post a pic. as we might be able to tell by looking as Aeroquip has a distinctive jacket wrap. I'm betting on bad hose.
Mike
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: Pamela & Mike on July 22, 2025, 06:04:45 pm
The best place for a pic. should be where the supply line enters the fuel filter.
Mike
Title: Re: Engine dies after less than one minute
Post by: red tractor on July 22, 2025, 06:11:21 pm
The 98 came with bare rubber hoses. The easiest place to check is where the hoses hook to the water separator. If you see any cracking where the hose goes over the fittings then you will know. Also check the hose that goes to the generator.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Michelle on July 22, 2025, 06:19:06 pm
Post 40 starts a merge of 2 topics with the same question. It's best to keep all the information in one place so that members can follow what has and has not been done/tried.
Michelle
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 23, 2025, 11:33:46 am
OK, MIKE, but in order to pull the tank halfway out, the hoses must be disconnected on the engine bay and on the generator to allow tank to be dragged out Note: there must be some kind of fish line attached to the disconnected hoses to be able to fish the new hose in Correct? To do so I need to know if the hoses have some kind of straps or zip ties along the road inside the tunnel Please advise
Edmond, 1. Half way out. This will allow you to access the hose fittings on top of the tank. Once loose then you can pull the tank the rest of the way out. You can leave the tank setting half way out but you will find that it will be in the way causing undue frustration. 2. Refer to #1 3. all I have seen are just laying in the table tray. With out the Aqua Hot unit I have in the past been able to just tie new hose to the old hose and pull in the new hose into place.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 23, 2025, 11:36:19 am
The generator starts and runs. Is it possible that the air can get into the system from there? Edmond
The 98 came with bare rubber hoses. The easiest place to check is where the hoses hook to the water separator. If you see any cracking where the hose goes over the fittings then you will know. Also check the hose that goes to the generator.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 23, 2025, 11:43:02 am
MIKE , I wonder why the tank was made so tall, not to allow replacement of the hoses without pulling it out? What if when the tank is out take it to an aluminum shop have them modify either the whole top of the tank to drop it like 3 inches which may reduce the capacity I don't know by how many gallons or modify just the middle of the tank top where the hoses are connected to drop that section lower for Future access to the hoses without pulling out the tank I know some people may say this will take 10 years to have such a need again, but it cuts the whole labor much down I have no idea about what that may cost, but the next owner of the RV we will appreciate it
OK, MIKE, but in order to pull the tank halfway out, the hoses must be disconnected on the engine bay and on the generator to allow tank to be dragged out Note: there must be some kind of fish line attached to the disconnected hoses to be able to fish the new hose in Correct? To do so I need to know if the hoses have some kind of straps or zip ties along the road inside the tunnel Please advise
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 23, 2025, 11:47:21 am
One more question for you guys Is it possible that the rubber pump on top of the water separator could be caused of the air getting into the system? Wouldn't be leaking diesel if that's the source By the way, I am planning to replace the return check valve, which I ordered today since I noticed one of the members problem was the check valve hopefully that will solve my problem before getting into replacing the hoses So far, I have a new solenoid, a new lift pump, two new filters, primary and water separator And now I'm planning to install a new check valve I'm crossing my fingers that this would solve the problem before the Hose project
MIKE , I wonder why the tank was made so tall, not to allow replacement of the hoses without pulling it out? What if when the tank is out take it to an aluminum shop have them modify either the whole top of the tank to drop it like 3 inches which may reduce the capacity I don't know by how many gallons or modify just the middle of the tank top where the hoses are connected to drop that section lower for Future access to the hoses without pulling out the tank I know some people may say this will take 10 years to have such a need again, but it cuts the whole labor much down I have no idea about what that may cost, but the next owner of the RV we will appreciate it
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on July 23, 2025, 06:54:48 pm
If you do replace the hoses, when you pull the tank out there is enough excess hose to let it be pulled out enough to unhook the hoses from the fittings in the center of the tank. There are hoses on end of top of the tank that you have to remove in order to pull the tank out. I marked them and the fittings they came off of with colored wire zip ties. I also drew a picture of it to. None of the ones that I have done, had ties on the lines in the overhead tunnel. I used the old hose to pull the new hose in.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 24, 2025, 11:05:36 am
Sorry for the late response. No, it is not plugged in
Starting a new post is very confusing in regards to what you have done in your prior post. Very good information was given but we don't know what you have done. 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=49434.msg497610#msg497610) You mentioned that you are a retired professional OTR driver. You may have some contacts in your prior service department that may be able to also help. Staying methodical will result in a resolution. Every time you touch the fuel delivery system you possibly add additional issues. I understand it may be confusing but you are needing to resolve the leaks that you don't see. They are in the suction line from the tank to the engine driven fuel pump. This is were air is admitted into the fuel system. None is permissible. Have you checked for engine codes? Running one minute and shutting off may be a low coolant issue as mentioned prior. If you have active leaks that you can see they must be resolved before you can go any father. My personal resolution was new fuel lines and a FASS filter and constant operation lift pump. Suspect you too will follow similar to what so many others have done.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 24, 2025, 11:20:59 am
Post 40 starts a merge of 2 topics with the same question. It's best to keep all the information in one place so that members can follow what has and has not been done/tried.
Michelle
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 24, 2025, 11:23:31 am
Thank you red tractor That is good news hopefully mine are not tied in the tunnel as well Edmond
If you do replace the hoses, when you pull the tank out there is enough excess hose to let it be pulled out enough to unhook the hoses from the fittings in the center of the tank. There are hoses on end of top of the tank that you have to remove in order to pull the tank out. I marked them and the fittings they came off of with colored wire zip ties. I also drew a picture of it to. None of the ones that I have done, had ties on the lines in the overhead tunnel. I used the old hose to pull the new hose in.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 24, 2025, 12:07:12 pm
Can the rubber pump on top of water separator B source of air in the fuel line Let's mention I don't see any fuel leak there
Exmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 24, 2025, 04:31:39 pm
If time comes, do both supply and return hoses need to be replaced or just a supply line It shouldn't be sucking air from the return line, correct? Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on July 24, 2025, 04:44:07 pm
If time comes, do both supply and return hoses need to be replaced or just a supply line It shouldn't be sucking air from the return line, correct? Edmond
While doing one, you are going to spend very little time doing the return line. If you end up doing the return later it is going to cost you a lot more time and $
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 24, 2025, 06:32:00 pm
My FT is at 36 feet Does anyone have an idea how many feet of hose do I need to replace both supplies for engine and generator? Also, both return hoses I think they are not the same size in diameter. Any information will help.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on July 24, 2025, 07:40:19 pm
Definitely replace all at the same time. I measured from the tank to the engine and from the tank to the generator and then added some extra, because it has to come from the center of the coach to the side and then a couple of extra feet for each line. That worked for me.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on July 24, 2025, 09:00:10 pm
I replaced my hoses with Trident marine barrier hoses. You may find it's way cheaper to buy the 50' roll.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 25, 2025, 02:15:29 am
Today i tried to start the engine again, after priming from the lift pump and priming the rubber pump on the water separator, it took a couple of cranks ( unlike the first month I purchased it which would have start by a quick turn of the key) it did start, I kept my foot on the gas pedal to raise the RPM , it still died on me I thought may be the problem can be from the fuel shut off solenoid, I did reinstall it with the new one i had installed on last month ( from Lary's B ) primed it again, and it did the same thing, I gave up for today, tomorrow I will receive and replace the return check valve just like what chuck did and that was his problem so far I followed his foot steps, replaced both fuel filters, replace shut off solenoid, replaced fuel transfer pump, and tomorrow replacing check valve hopefully that will be my problem as well and i may not need to replace my fuel lines now Edmond 1998 U295
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 25, 2025, 02:21:26 am
per Pamela and mike's suggestion i am attaching two pictures to see if any one can tell if the hoses are the original hoses or probably were replaced by previous owner one of the two hoses connected to water separator , the one with new fitting and new hose , is the one i just replaced which goes to the lift pump, the older hose is the one coming from the tank? but if so , why the hose above the tank has no jacket? i am not sure if that hose goes to engine or to the generator? didn't have a flash light with me.
Edmond 1998 U295
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on July 25, 2025, 06:31:59 am
In the 2nd pic of the line on top of the tank that hose is an Aeroquip most likely OEM. From the looks of it the hose appears to loop around and head to the rear of the coach so that should be your supply hose.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Dave Larsen on July 25, 2025, 08:59:56 am
Not sure, but the hose loop on top of the tank looks like there might be the beginning of seepage at the spiral lines.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on July 25, 2025, 09:24:47 am
You could take a 5 gallon jug of diesel and run this hose to your engine. If it will not run more then a few minutes, the fuel line is not your problem.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 25, 2025, 11:32:00 am
Please explain what you mean by " take a 5 gallon jug of diesel and run this hose to your engine" I think you mean use a 5 gallon jug to replace tank? But i can not disconnect the hose from tank without pulling the tank
How about if i use a 5 gallon jug with a ten feet hose back by the engine and connect it to the water separator as fuel supply If the engine stays running , the problem can be the hose? By the way the hose on top of the tank with the loop does not have jacket , how come the other end connected to the water separator has jacket? Can it be the same hose?
You could take a 5 gallon jug of diesel and run this hose to your engine. If it will not run more then a few minutes, the fuel line is not your problem.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 25, 2025, 11:38:47 am
If i replace my existing manual water separator with this electric one, will i eliminate priming by hand ? ( i am aware of if engine does't stay running is not going to be fixed by doing so )
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 25, 2025, 12:05:15 pm
in the picture i don't see any wiring, but i assumed there must be some kind of connection spots I learned i can supply power to it from glow plugs? Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: wolfe10 on July 25, 2025, 12:18:22 pm
Please explain what you mean by " take a 5 gallon jug of diesel and run this hose to your engine" I think you mean use a 5 gallon jug to replace tank? But i can not disconnect the hose from tank without pulling the tank
How about if i use a 5 gallon jug with a ten feet hose back by the engine and connect it to the water separator as fuel supply If the engine stays running , the problem can be the hose? By the way the hose on top of the tank with the loop does not have jacket , how come the other end connected to the water separator has jacket? Can it be the same hose?
Edmond
Sorry, I wrote that on my phone and was short on words.
Yes, to verify that your hose is the problem (or not the problem) of the engine not stay running. Take short hose, and get fuel for engine from a jug with diesel it it. Remove coach fuel hose connection at first filter and connect short hose to the remote tank. No need to worry about return line, the return fuel will just be added to the coaches tank. Now if engine stays running, problem is very likely your hose, fuel in the tank, tank pickup or ?? If engine does not stay running, then hose is not the problem engine will not stay running.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on July 25, 2025, 06:53:32 pm
It looks to me like someone has spliced a different hose onto the one coming from the tank. The pictures show 2 different types of hose. I have never seen the jacketed hose on a 98 or newer. Follow that hose from the filter back towards the front of the coach. You will probably find a connection of the 2 hoses before you get all the way to the bulkhead. I am not sure if that jacketed hose will work with the type of fitting that is is slipped over. That could be where your air leak is. You could try to put some air pressure in the fuel tank and see if you see any seepage on the lines. I would use a rag wrapped around an air nozzle and blow some air in the tank, not a lot of pressure, maybe 10-15 pounds.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 26, 2025, 12:16:54 am
what is mystery, is that it ran on April first when I purchased it, i drove it home between 150 to 200 miles then for a week , i started it every day after i took of from work and let it idle for 20 t0 30 minute to keep the batteries charged I pulled it out of storage and drove it twenty miles to a tire shop another week after i took my grand kids for a test drive for twenty miles why all of a sudden this? Edmond Tomorrow i will replace the return line check valve, may be as chuck's case , it went bad now but remember, chuck was talking about starting the engine and he had only 3 PSI pressure after each step mine is no longer stay running to even check the pressure Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 28, 2025, 12:13:01 am
Today i did follow the braided hose attached to the water separator, it goes right in the tunnel without seeing any spliced spot
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 28, 2025, 12:18:57 am
To all you followers, next week i will use a five gallon fuel container as a suply tank Using a different hose from water separator to the container i will try to start the engine A- if it stays running , i have bad hose coming from tank B- if the engine died again in less than a minute Then the fuel supply leak is not the issue But, my question is, what other reason can be the mystery
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 28, 2025, 12:22:30 am
I also search for the check valve location, per chucks 7 years ago post, it was under AC compressor But it looked much larger than the one i had ordered ( i ordered it using engine serial number) See picture attached Any advise
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 28, 2025, 12:35:58 am
Since i may end up replacing the fuel hose from tank to the engine, today i took two pictures from both ends of the tank A- from passenger side, which it has to come out Two bolts, may require to detach door and the frame around opening to give enough opening
B- from driver side, fiber glass covers the tank end and sides Only fill cap can be seen By the way where the fill neck is coming out of fiberglass wall, looks like being sealed or calked around the ring hole I can not even see bolts or nuts either I read on forums " remove six nuts " i only see two
Also it looks like the tank can not even being pushed from driver side Why Foretravel would design it like this I wish the tank capacity was 80 gallon instead was built shorter to allow access to the hoses without pulling the tank out? Or why the hoses where not placed close to the end of tank in reach Have any one replaced the hoses on a 98 u295 36 feet? To match mine? If so please advise how to pull the tank out
Thanks in advance Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on July 28, 2025, 10:37:34 am
The covers will need to come off both sides, there are some air vent tubes on the drivers side that need to come out, there is a drain plug in the d/s bottom of the tank be sure to put board under the tank so the plug will clear. I took mine out of the passenger side. You also have hoses and wires that lay on top is the tank just work the over the fittings. Patients is the key. I'm not sure on a 98 but I think the side trim around the door will need to come off, and of course the door assembly will need to come off. If have push loc fitting you can reuse them just don't scratch them citting the old hose. Trident doesn't recommend using then but they work just fine. NO HOSE CLAMPS they will cut the inner linner of The hose. I just used a black tie wrap. Been over 5 years all good and no diesel smell anywhere. I'll bet you have diesel smell when you open your bay doors or walk around you coach after you shut it off.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on July 28, 2025, 11:31:48 am
I also search for the check valve location, per chucks 7 years ago post, it was under AC compressor... But it looked much larger than the one i had ordered...
I don't know what you ordered without seeing a photo or link to the item online.
In your photo the red arrow does point to the overflow valve, so you are looking at the correct location.
In my old "fuel system" thread I replaced the original overflow valve with an adjustable valve from Tork Tek.
Overflow Valve to Adust your Bosch P7100 Injection Pump (https://www.torkteknology.com/dodge-cummins-12-valve-adjustable-overflow-valve-by-tork-tek-ofv020/)
The one I used may look different from the one you ordered, but it should be close to the same size. See my photos below.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on July 28, 2025, 02:18:18 pm
We always replaced the valve when we either imported the MBZ OM617 engines or put turbos on the non-turbo engines. The valve is important for several reasons.
1. It keeps the fuel from running back to the tank resulting in slower starts.
2. It keeps the inside reservoir of the Bosch P pump full of diesel at all throttle settings and RPM. It won't give any more power than a factory new pump with valve but as the valves age, the ball gets microscopic surface passages and deformed ball seats allowing the pressure to drop. The drop in pressure results in each stroke of the P pump to have less than factory pressure. I've never seen any broken springs but they do occur.
3. The injectors gradually wear and lose the nice spray pattern. It's pretty easy to DIY the injectors to clean up the pattern and adjust the pressure. Harbor Freight or Ebay sells the testers. This is not for Detroit unit injectors. Also not for any electronic injector. Check to see if your injectors can be disassembled easily.
The factory only gives each pump a limited amount of time to make sure each cylinder gets the correct amount of fuel and to make sure each cylinder gets it's fuel at exactly the right time. If you have a little extra cash, pull the pump and take it to a pump shop to adjust it so each cylinder is getting the correct amount of fuel at exactly the right time. The pump shops can also add fuel for more power but may not be EPA legal.
When we installed turbos on non turbo engines, the pump shops always added more fuel. Unless fuel was added, the power increase was minimal with only lower EGT. With added fuel, the OM617 and Rayjay turbo did not produce any more smoke but only more power. Shops know what is OK and what is not.
Pierce
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on July 28, 2025, 09:34:32 pm
It looks like I may misunderstood completely mistaken overflow valve and fuel return check valve I did order the check valve See the heart department print below
Now, I will Ask For overflow valve Thank you for the explanation It looks like I'm in good school. I appreciate everyone all the members. Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 01, 2025, 10:48:19 am
can any one please give me the link of those who cut the floor to access the fuel tank hoses? I saw one, but don't remember where to find it also i like to know if more than one person did the same I am thinking to take that route which appears to be much less work than pulling the tank out
edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 01, 2025, 11:22:07 am
I don't see the length of your coach listed. That would need to be listed for info on cutting through the floor. I personally would not go that route as with the tank out more room to feed the hoses as they go both directions. But do what is best for you.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 01, 2025, 11:48:15 am
I have been looking around for John Hagrath post about this but I have misspelled his name and can't find his post. If I remember he went through the floor for both his coach and his brothers to replace those lines. He should chime in on this once he sees this thread.
Here is one that was done long ago by a member that was just posted a couple of days ago that you might have saw. Replacing Generator fuel line on '99 U320 (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=14104.msg80841#msg80841)
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Michelle on August 01, 2025, 12:02:44 pm
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 01, 2025, 03:54:40 pm
I sure thought he had posted some pics. of his cut out and how he patched the hole after the job. It even seems like he used some super dooper tape to seal up a leak at a fitting till he could do a proper repair.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Michelle on August 01, 2025, 04:33:05 pm
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 01, 2025, 04:53:53 pm
M,
That is what we were looking for. Outstanding work. That has some info that will help Edmond On a side note how can he remember something like this from 10+ years ago?
Pamela & Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 01, 2025, 06:22:51 pm
Its a 36 feet one I don't like to cut the floor too, but hearing the headache of removing tank? Specially if i even can not see its mounting bolt on driver side Its covered by fiberglass To take the tank out i saw others cut the fiberglass wall and re patched it But i agree if the tank is out then can get in that compartment and run the hoses to either direction
I wonder why there were not two welded nuts on the tank ( behind the fiberglass wall ) with two bolts to mount from underneath? This way there was no need to cut the fiberglass Anyway still thinking Tomorrow i will use a canister and portable hose to supply fuel to water separator by disconnecting the line coming from the tank If the engine didn't stay running again, that means the problem is not fuel line coming from the tank
Lets say if this happened tomorrow, what else is there to kill the engine less than 1/2 minutes after starting And advise is appropriated
I don't see the length of your coach listed. That would need to be listed for info on cutting through the floor. I personally would not go that route as with the tank out more room to feed the hoses as they go both directions. But do what is best for you.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 02, 2025, 01:13:11 am
i used to be a cabinet maker, good knowledge of wood working and i am getting closer to choose the cutting the floor to do the hoses instead of taking the tank out those who have done this please help me with following questions - how thick is the plywood? -what is under plywood which must be cut with plywood - there should be a chassis ( frame ) under the plywood floor, can some one describe that? i assume the white ceiling above the tank , is under the frame? and the plywood is sitting above the frame? because the frame is not exposed in any of the basements any way here are pros and cons of replacing the fuel lines through the floor hole
PROS of cutting the floor no need to remove tank's side doors no need to remove tank's side door trims no need to empty the tank no need to cut the fiberglass on the driver side no need for come along and jeep no damage done by drain plug no need to patch the cut fiberglass no help may needed to pull or push the tank no damage to other wires or air lines etc when dragging the tank out if the job didn't finish in one day ( which it will not ) you can lock up the Rv where it is and go home
CONS: remove passenger seat and recliner out of way detach and lift the carpet from the passenger side to cut the floor without cutting the carpet cutting a 12x12 hole in the nice plywood floor tight room to access the fittings to disconnect and reconnect them more important, harder to pull and push the hoses through the tight room reinstall the cut out piece in same hole properly ( i have a drawing for how to patch the hole in the floor, see attached picture ) lay the carpet back
OTHER OPTIONS : cut the carpet where its needed and have a carpet guy to seam it back ( much less work than removing the seat and lifting carpet cut the carpet above the tank to do the job, then have a carpet guy to seam a different color carpet to look like a runner it can be a darker color to match FT exterior decals
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 02, 2025, 09:47:11 am
I would pull the tank where it me. As Craneman says way more room to work. But as always DWMYFG. You will also need to remove the covers in ceiling of the bays. And I still don't know where you need to be cutting fiberglass! You and a good helper can do the whole job in 2 days or so
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 02, 2025, 10:05:23 am
Once you get through the floor you will have all the hoses and wiring in your way. I have pulled the tank by myself. The only thing I have to have help with is removing and installing the door.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 02, 2025, 06:59:38 pm
There are no frame rails, so total thickness of the floor is about 2 inches more or less.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on August 02, 2025, 07:18:27 pm
Once you get through the floor you will have all the hoses and wiring in your way. I have pulled the tank by myself. The only thing I have to have help with is removing and installing the door.
And are you going to miss cutting any wires and hoses when cutting hole in floor?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Michelle on August 02, 2025, 08:00:25 pm
And are you going to miss cutting any wires and hoses when cutting hole in floor?
And the LP lines are in that basement ceiling chase as well. At minimum, shut off the LP tank. Get a sniffer to test the lines afterwards if you remotely suspect contacting them.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 03, 2025, 12:13:15 am
well , i hope i will not end up to replace the hoses, may be the splice done to the hose by previous owner can be the problem the hose coming from fuel tank to the water separator has braided jacket on the engine side and the other end of it on the tank does not so i assume the previous owner may have replaced a portion of the hose in engine bay due to some kind of burn or cut or damage , and has spliced a piece of jacketed hose on the existing hose to the separator i lifted the mattress and didn't see the spliced section , tomorrow i will try to pull the hose out of the tunnel toward the engine hoping the spliced section will show up to be inspected
but to answer Michelle and turbojack, I am planing to slide a thin sheet metal piece ,narrower than the opening width of tank bay ,and long enough to pass the center of the tank between all the wires/hoses etc. and the ceiling (with fold over edges not to be sharp ) this is to protect any think from being cut by either kind of tool, jig saw with short blade , small router with adjusted depth or die grinder etc.
note , the reasons that is pulling me away from removing the tank is, removing the fiberglass on driver side over the tank end i even don't see the tank's mounting bolts behind the fiberglass on the driver side? can some one tell me how many bolts does a 98 model with 100 gallon tank have? (on one post some one said remove 6 bolts ) i only see two on passenger side i have not paid attention to the mounting bolts yet, are they bolts and nuts? or are nuts welded to the tank and bolts can be removed from under the floor? if so , one may remove the bolts from driver side without removing or cutting the fiberglass wall there and then pull the tank out from passenger side plus, every body is talking about being careful of drain plug hanging below the bottom of the tank, that means the tank must be lifted up before pulling it out but how to lift it? actually i don't see enough room above the tank and ceiling to lift it up, not only that, the driver side fiberglass is hiding the tank, can not be lifted or pushed from driver side PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF AND HOW THE FIBER GLASS ON THE DRIVER SIDE CAN BE REMOVED TO ACCESS THE MOUNTING BOLTS, BEING ABLE TO LIFT THE TANK AND BEING ABLE TO PUSH THE TANK FROM DRIVER SIDE yes if some one do damages to propane line or wiring when cutting a hole in the floor , that is to bad but what guaranties pulling the tank out will not rip off some of those anyway
everything would have been easy for all Foretravel owners if Foretravel had build the tanks shorter (may be with less capacity,) and had mounted all the hoses close to the end of the tank which working on the hose connectors would only need to open the side door does having 20 extra gallon of fuel worth all this headache? any way we are hear now and we have to deal with this one way or another does anyone know how much does a shop charge to replace these hoses? i dont have a foretravel dealer close to me Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 03, 2025, 12:47:41 am
If you search enough you can find all the info on the forum to answer your questions. Here is a start and I will find some more but the 6 screw question is answered here.
First step to fuel line replacement (Removing tank covers) (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=21064.msg155718#msg155718)
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Jeff & Sandy on August 03, 2025, 06:05:45 am
I found this forum a year before I bought my coach. I continue to be astounded by the depth of knowledge and generosity of forum members willing to help and share with other FT owners. I would not have bought a FT without this forum. There is nothing like it in my opinion.
No matter what the issue chances are someone on the forum has experienced and resolved it.
Obviously there are various options for resolving any coach issue.
I'm certainly no expert but before I cut into my floor to remove a fuel tank I'd seriously consider studying what others have done to remove the tank. These folks have been through it and chances are whatever they did... worked. I'd search through the forum and look up every instance I could find for removing the tank to see what worked and didn't.
In your shoes I would make my decision based on how I could do the least damage to my coach to get the tank out.
Good luck and best wishes with your repairs.
Edited to add:
You mentioned: "everything would have been easy for all Foretravel owners if Foretravel had build the tanks shorter (may be with less capacity,) and had mounted all the hoses close to the end of the tank which working on the hose connectors would only need to open the side door does having 20 extra gallon of fuel worth all this headache?"
Fuel lines may have to be replaced once during ownership and maybe not at all. Personally I'd rather have the extra fuel.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 03, 2025, 03:14:49 pm
Ok, just came back from the storage yard And have an update for what i was supposed to do today First step
1- disconnect the fuel line coming from fuel tank from fuel water separator 2- attached an 8feet pre made hose with one end connector to the water separator 3-place the other end of the hose in a 5 gallon diesel canister 4-went behind the wheel and started the engine after a couple of cranks it started, but it did not stay running 5-to me this tells me that the dyingproblem is not the fuel line coming from the tank 6- I tried to start it again, it didn't start before I go prime from the lift pump and from the water separator But when it started, it died again in less than 30 seconds
I assume the engine dying may be from losing the 12 V power coming to solenoid from the ignition key being in on position It supplies power to open the fuel valve in start position, but when the engine ran and let the key go back to on position it dies
But again, if that is the case, why it needs priming again? Where can she suck the air from there is only 8 feet of new hose submerging in in fuel canister
Could the overflow valve cause they are getting into the system? Most of what I read about the overflow valve are talking about low power, not dying engine I didn't read anyone talking about the same issue I have .
Read my following posting about what I found studying the tank removal on my Coach Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 03, 2025, 03:24:31 pm
Following previous post Second step
1- opened side doors on each end of the tank 2- my question answered, I can remove four balls from under the body to free the tank 3- using a powerful flashlight, looked above the tank. Yes, you guys are correct. The wires and other lines running in a the tunnel , cross over the tank and jump to the next tunnel going forward 4- I could tell pulling the tank out, the hoses on top of the tank will not drag any of the other lines above them ( unlike what it was in my mind wrongly) 5- looking at the driver side, fiberglass covering the tank, I only see three screws on the right vertical edge There are no screws around fitting There is caulking on the bottom , and the left side and the top of this cap Also caulking around the fuel tank neck Apparently, that piece must be removable But my question is how only three screws is holding it in place why no screws on the left edge I can get some input from those who know
Conclusion As some of you mentioned, maybe removing the tank it's easier And I may do so if needed instead of cutting the floor What appears hard is, get the tank empty and get the tank free specially from the driver side and the drain plug I also noticed that if I am able to lift the tank from the passenger side, I may be able to push to three-quarter inch boards along the length of the tank Basically to set the tank on those as rails In the meantime to free the drain plug The last hard part of the job is removing the door and the passenger side and the trims around the opening
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 03, 2025, 04:17:30 pm
Can air get in the fuel system after engine dies? Funny question ha Or if a bad overflow valve can let air get in fuel system and then the engine dies?
Please help me solve this Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 03, 2025, 04:52:34 pm
I did a 98 u270 36 foot and a late 97 u270. Both of those had to come out the driver side due to the drain plug being on the driver side. The fiberglass cover has screws and you also have to remove the vent tube at the top for the batteries. I bought a 12 volt fuel pump at harbor freight and a couple of 50 gallon barrels and pumped the fuel into them. The bolts securing the tank were 2 on each end from below. On some newer coaches the drain plug is on the passenger side and the tank has to come out the passenger side. If you tie the fuel solenoid in the open position will it continue to run? If it does that is the problem, but if not then you are not getting fuel to the injector pump. Have you followed that jacketed hose from the water separator to the bulkhead? Does it disappear into the coach at the bulkhead? You can remove the tunnel from the compartment directly in front of the holding tank compartment and see what the hoses look like there. Someplace there is a splice and you need to find it.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: fourdayoff on August 03, 2025, 05:34:02 pm
Edmund, from your post "it will only run for 30 seconds" from fuel in a bucket have you checked the coolant level in the big black coolant tank and the sensor on the bottom of that tank. These will cause your symptom's Jim.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 03, 2025, 06:05:38 pm
in response to both of the two last posts a- no, I forgot to do so, tomorrow i will use a zip tie and keep the solenoid valve open and check if it stays runing thanks for reminding b- was not able to get under the engine to look inside the tunnel for possible splice because i can do so when engine run and the airbags lift up using the safety blocks i will try to check for the connection . hopefully is not too far deep in there and i can pull it out
still like to learn if a bad overflow valve will cause air getting in the fuel system ( because it did die even using a canister as fuel tank ) Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: fourdayoff on August 03, 2025, 06:12:34 pm
Answer to cooling system question?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on August 03, 2025, 07:04:24 pm
I had to turn the key at the dash on in order to start the coach from the engine compartment start button and keep engine running.
Might check to see if your filters are leaking air
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Doug W. on August 03, 2025, 07:28:57 pm
still like to learn if a bad overflow valve will cause air getting in the fuel system ( because it did die even using a canister as fuel tank ) Edmond
I would say no. I replaced mine years ago with a Tork Tek adjustable chasing a power issue. Old stock valve had a broken spring without notable issues.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 03, 2025, 09:53:23 pm
It is full, but as far as I know, it does not have a sensor
Maybe you can help me search on that black tank if the sensor is there? I didn't see anything there.
[ quote author=fourdayoff link=msg=499367 date=1754259154] Answer to cooling system question? [/quote]
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 03, 2025, 09:54:12 pm
Replace both filters two weeks ago
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 03, 2025, 10:29:36 pm
By the way, I wonder why someone will try to pull the tank from the driver side requiring removal of those PVC pipes coming from wheel well two battery compartment When there is no such a thing on the passenger side
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on August 04, 2025, 09:26:20 am
...still like to learn if a bad overflow valve will cause air getting in the fuel system...
The answer to your question is "No". There is no way a bad overflow valve would let air into the fuel system.
The overflow valve has only one function: to control the fuel pressure at the injection pump inlet, by restricting the flow of fuel back to the fuel tank.
As Doug noted, even if the overflow valve was stuck completely open, there is no way for it to allow air into the fuel line.
Bottom line: In my opinion, the overflow valve on your coach, regardless of condition, is not causing your engine failure to stay running after startup.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 04, 2025, 06:01:48 pm
The drain plug location dictates which side the tank needs to come out. If it is on the driver side, needs to come out that side, otherwise you would have to put something under it to have the plug not dig into the fiberglass floor and also you want the maximum amount of space above the tank.
Also this is the mechanical engine and no low coolant sensor to shut it down.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 04, 2025, 11:54:29 pm
The drain plug on my tank looks exactly in the middle of the tank And if time comes to replace the hoses i will pull the tank from passenger side
Today i didn't get a chance to use the zip tie test to check if solenoid is killing the engine Instead, i washed all eight 2x2x11 3/4 steel tubing ( 1/4" wall ) which i had ordered, and then painted them yellow to use as safety blocks Because in order to check , if there is a splice on fuel hose in the tunnel, i need to crawl under there to pull the hose out of tunnel That requires engine to run and build air pressure, to raise the coach up, then i put the blocks to herp it high to do my research
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on August 05, 2025, 07:47:28 am
Your coach has a air fitting in the front passenger bay. You can make a hose adapter to connect an air compressor to fill the air bags.
I never tried in my 1997 U295 but it works in my IH
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 05, 2025, 01:26:32 pm
Hi Brett, it looks like I should've listened to you long ago when you suggested to get a voltmeter and check the power on my shut off solenoid To be honest with you, I did not do that because I'm not very good using Walter knowing a lot of electrical volts, watts, ohms etc I just know how to use a test light to find out if a wire is hot or not.
But to me, it sounds like more likely my problem is the solenoid first circuit in run position, which is supposed to hold the plunger up after starting the engine I'm not sure yet I'm planning to go to the RV use a zip tie holding the plunger up and try to start the engine and see if it stays running or not After I have done everything else, replacing both filters replacing fuel pump using a 5 gallon canister to start the engine from the Canister Fuel Suply engine still does not stay running it dies in less than 30 seconds
I also had replaced the solenoid with a new one from Larry's B
My question to you is that if I found out there is no power in the solenoid in run position. I am sure there is power in start position that makes the valve open and the engine starts.
But if there is no power in the ignition being in wrong position, where should I look for the problem? I was thinking, maybe the electronic ignition switch below the key cylinder may not have a good contact inside to connect power to solenoid, but then, I was told that if that's the case, I would lose the power behind the dash as well. Please advise if i test the three prong solenoid harness and there is no power coming to sit ,where should I look for to fix? Thanks Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 05, 2025, 06:41:46 pm
I read all the 24 postings about solenoid , and watched the video this completed my education about the solenoid shut off valve But it still left me with two questions 1- how one wire can get less amperage and another more? If both wires come from the ignition switch
2-underneath the ignition switch it's the black electronic part of the switch which the harness connects to it Does anyone know which wire from there belongs to the low amperage and which one with higher amperage supply power to fuel solenoid? The reason I am asking this, is to make sure when the ignition switch is in a run position it contacts between the 12 V power source to the wire that goes to fuel solenoid ( I learned from Chuck that the wire does not go straight from ignition switch to the fuel solenoid. The wire goes to ignition solenoid in the fuse panel, and from there goes to the Fuel solenoid) Finally, the question is this, when there is no power in the white wire with low amperage to hold up the plunger on solenoid, where to look for ? I assume, first I have to make sure the wire running from the ignition solenoid inside the fuse panel compartment to the fuel solenoid has continuity right? To do so, can I see the white wire connected to the ignition solenoid to tested for continuity if it's broken or not? Any pictures of IGNITION solenoid available? And let's guess that the wire has continuity and it's not broken, then I have to check for continuity in the wire coming from ignition switch to the solenoid. Make sure that wire is not broken, right? If not, then the ignition switch's electronic member could be bad
But again , if that is the problem, I am told I will not have Power behind the dash
And if both wires have the continuity then I have to check for the voltage coming to these two wires If I have power on the ignition solenoid and the wire coming from the ignition switch then I have to check if I have power going out of ignition solenoid to the back And if there is no power there, does that means I have a bad ignition solenoid? But understanding from Chuck, this ignition solenoid if it goes bad, it will not supply power to any other circuits as well This puts me in a position that what is next? I honestly expect to see there is no continuity in the white wire going from ignition solenoid to the fuel solenoid the whole length of the RV, which in this case I can probably run a new wire inside the tunnel, all the way to the back of the engine by cutting both ends of the existing white wire close to IGNITION solenoid and close to fuel shut off solenoid ( in case if it's broken somewhere in the tunnel ) 3- but if everything tested good as it's supposed to be then what could make the voltage being less than 12 by the solenoid and the white wire After spending so much time in this case on my RV, which has been frustrating , the only thing left to be done is to check this Power supply issue If I fix this and kept my engine running, then I can continue to see whether I am getting Air in the fuel line or not Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on August 05, 2025, 08:27:08 pm
The two wires going to the shut off solenoid are both 12 volts. This solenoid has two windings one for pulling the plunger down and the other is used for keeping the plunger down. The pull down winding use more power to get the plunger down. The other windings are not as strong since they only need to hold the plunger down, and not pull it down, which requires less power.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 05, 2025, 08:32:43 pm
The fuel solenoid has two coils one is called the pull in winding and the other is the hold in winding. The current for the pull in winding comes from the starter so there is current from the starter only when the starter is engage. The hold in winding gets current from the ignition. When the key is turned on there is current going through the hold in winding but that winding isn't strong enough to pull the solenoid in and when the starter is engaged the pull in winding gets current from the starter and the solenoid is pulled in and when the starter is stopped the hold in winding now keeps the solenoid in.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 05, 2025, 09:04:35 pm
To Jack and peter I know how solenoid has two coils and how it works The question is , if there is no power in the white wire which supposedly it is feeding the coil that keeps the plunger up , otherwise to keep the valve open, where to look for? What can cause it? Is it ignition switch? Is it ignition solenoid is the wire broken in 37 feet inside the tunnel? Or is the voltage less than 12? And what causes that why in a wire there should be only 8 V Batteries are strong. They show 13 V. House batteries show 13 V When I try to start the engine, I have the generator running already, and I turned the booster on as well That means there is no shortage of 12 V supply To the Batteries And it cranks strongly that means the starter gets to our volt power Can someone tell me what makes a wire show less than 12 V?
That is what I really need in order to fix the problem Actually, I am guessing that 99.9% this could be the case, but I will find out on Friday by using a zip tie on shut off solenoid, and if engine stays running, then that means solenoid is not holding the valve open ( remember, I already have a new Larry B's solenoid installed, and during last two weeks I swapped it with the old one as well, just in case the new one was defected, so the solenoid is not bad. Let's call it this way.) I'm trying to prepare and educate myself where to look for to solve it Thank you all Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 06, 2025, 12:07:53 pm
Is there a reset circuit breaker on the fuse panel for the solenoid?
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on August 06, 2025, 01:50:52 pm
Is there a reset circuit breaker on the fuse panel for the solenoid?
If there is, it should show up on the 12V wiring diagram for your coach. The one linked below may or may not be correct for your coach. If it is wrong, there are others available in our Exceptional Forum Library:
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 06, 2025, 04:53:10 pm
Have you check the voltage on the white wire with the solenoid disconnected and if it is different than with it connected you have a bad connection.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 06, 2025, 07:06:46 pm
I will do so the day after tomorrow, Friday First, I will hold the plunger up using a zip tie and start the engine If it stayed running, that means there is no power in solenoid Then I will check for the power in both lines But I have a question back of my mind. What if I used the zip tie and open the fuel line manually and the engine still didn't stay running
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 08, 2025, 09:54:38 pm
Does anyone know or can have a picture of the location of the fuel return check valve? I am told there is a possibility that a stuck open check valve will not let the engine stay running or will cause a hard start So, To eliminate all excuses, I'm trying to replace that too Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on August 08, 2025, 10:49:22 pm
Does anyone know or can have a picture of the location of the fuel return check valve?
Edmond,
Found one reference to "fuel return check valve" on C8.3 engine in the old Lewis Anderson post linked below. Read down toward the middle of the LONG post for the entry dated 10 June 2016:
Low Power From Engine (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=33322.msg302889#msg302889)
Looking up part number 3924726 brings up the page linked below. Isn't this the same check valve you already ordered (before you ordered the overflow valve)?
1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=49434.msg499207#msg499207)
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 09, 2025, 05:47:18 pm
ok every body, here is the update report also what my next plans are please feel free to correct or advise me because I am a new RV owner and learning
this morning - submerged the hose connected to water separator in the canister with diesel - zip tied the solenoid to keep the fuel valve in open position - primed the fuel line using the pump on top of water separator - cranked the starter, after few cranked it started but shortly died - lifted the mattress and primed it from fuel lift pump - to make sure, went back to the engine and primed from water separator again - started the engine and ran at 700 RPM - unlike last days , it stayed running and after five or ten minutes it died - went back to the engine , noticed the fuel in the canister is finished - i was really surprised how she used like close to two gallons of fuel in a short time - at this point I disconnected the solenoid wire harness and with key in ON ( RUN ) position used my tester light ,one of the wires was Hot - my assumption is the second wire will get hot when key in start position, and the third wire is ground - this in mind, i assumed that the coil in the solenoid its getting power to hold the plunger up - to make sure, pushed the plunger up, and it stayed up , turned the key off, it released - was time to disconnect the zip tie since there was proof that the solenoid works as it should, and i did so
then: - I disconnected the hose going to canister and attached the fuel line coming from the tank to water separator ( may be I should have kept the zip tie in place yet ) - using the prime pump on the water separator primed it up - cranked to start the engine ,it did start, then died - i primed the system from fuel transfer ( lift ) pump also from water separator - cranked it, up it did start and although i was giving more gas , it did die again here in central California it is 105 today, so i left the storage yard upset again
assumption: - the fuel hose coming from the tank was disconnected since three days ago when i was doing the test with canister - so I assume that the whole length of the hose coming from tank ( may be over 20 feet ) 1-was empty and it may need more priming , or 2-the hose is bad and it sucks air
next step - per John a previous FT owner, first to add some air pressure in the tank to force fuel in the long hose because it will be to hard to prime all that air in the whole length of the hose , if this didn't keep the engine running then could be a possible bad hose - will buy a fuel tank cap and install a valve stem, then will use a bicycle air pump to pressurize the tank (carefully and very little pressure ) - to do this correctly , I will use a helper to pump air in the tank after i disconnect the fuel hose from water separator - while slowly pressurizing the tank , will look for fuel to run out of the hose ( may be using bunch of rags not to make a mess ) - when fuel flow is steady, will connect the hose to water separator and then continue with the prime pump on top of Separator - remove the fuel tank cap with valve stem and place the original cap - basically now all the air inside the fuel line must have gone out - then I will cross my fingers and try to start the engine
result: - if the engine stayed running , come back next day and try to start the engine - if it did start and ran, then follow up after longer time being parked - after a week , if it did start, problem solved, if it required priming again, most likely I need new hoses
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 10, 2025, 07:09:00 pm
It is me again , studying possible replacement of hoses, i decided to pull the tank out rather than cutting the floor the only two hard parts of the job are, to empty the tank ( about 75 Gallon fuel ) and pull the tank half way out i am thinking , pre fabricated hoses will ease the job and will cut the replacement time shorter does any one remember or have notes of what were the sizes of the fuel supply and fuel return hoses and how long each is supposed to be for a 36 feet U295 plus what size of connector on each end?
DAY ONE -I can remove the driver side end cap , and four fuel tank mounting bolts, disconnecting the hoses from engine side (adding two color electrical tape to separate the supply and return line ) and emptying the tank to have it ready DAY TWO, remove the door and door frame and pull the tank out, install new hoses and push the tank back and reinstall the door and the door frame " read option below" DAY THREE ,the driver side cap can be done the day after
THIS IS IF ,WHAT I HEARD FROM MEMBERS IS CORRECT , THAT THE HOSES ARE NOT ZIP TIED ANYWHERE IN THE TUNNEL, AND NO NEED TO REMOVE THE TUNEL SECTIONS ON THE CEILING which if this is true, i can connect the new hoses to the old one , USING A THREADED CUPLER , and pull them through i will have a diesel mechanic helping with this project
OPTION: , what if while the tank is out ,i disconnect the generator hoses, and install new prefabricated hoses ( long enough as required for generator} and connect the other end of them to the existing hose going to generator using a coupler and leave them looped on top of the tank, ( by loop i mean lay them on top of the tank like SSS shape to prevent twisting in future ,when generator hoses went bad, there may not be a need to remove the tank
and when time comes, or on another day , the old generator hoses can be disconnected and pulled through toward generator, dragging the new hoses behind them without need to pull the tank out , not sure if the hoses can be pulled through without being pushed and guided from the tank side in though. some of you may say why not do everything at the same time here is why? the FT is in a storage yard, not drive able , hard to be pulled out of it's spot by large tow rig, also to prevent any damage caused by towing and if the job didn't get finished in one day, everything will be all over the place to continue the following days which a- is not going to be safe, and b-storage yard may not agree with that this way i can complete the whole hose replacement job on the site, without leaving half done work on the storage ground as I described step by step above need you guys confirmation if this work? also need information from those of you who had done replacement thanks again Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 10, 2025, 08:02:56 pm
On the ones that I have done I have found that the fittings on the hose are push lock, no clamps required. I measured from the tank to where the hose goes and then added about 8 more feet , went to the hose store and by that time I knew what size of hose I needed. I bought the hose and a couple of extra push lock fittings and the connectors to be able to hook them together and then from the rear of the coach used the old line to pull in the new hose. I usually was by myself, but a couple of times I had a helper that was guiding the new hose in. The generator lines are much harder to pull, because of how they are routed coming from the tunnel to the generator.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 10, 2025, 08:17:27 pm
When I did mine, there was no way the hoses were going to be pulled through. Taking the covers down is no big deal.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 10, 2025, 08:22:02 pm
I agree on pulling down the covers. Only a few screws #2 square drive screws.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 11, 2025, 12:49:19 pm
Red tractor, can you please send me a link or pictures of the push on connectors? after purchasing the long enough hoses With connectors inserted in each end, i can attach one end to the tank fitting and and the other to the removed old hose from the tank , using a coupler, Then pull it through from the engine side? This way my helper can help guiding the hose in the tunnel, (crawling in from driver side) This way there may not be a need to remove the covers if the existing hose does not have any tie downs
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 11, 2025, 01:25:40 pm
On my '99 there was no way to pull the old one out coupled to the new one. Many ties and twists going through the chase. There is a post about two members who used a telescopic rod and fed it through from the rear and hooked the new hose to it and pulled it to the rear leaving the old hoses intact. I believe Dave Metzler was one of them but not sure.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck Pearson on August 11, 2025, 01:47:57 pm
I would like to see a picture of your water separator. Is it a part of your primary filter with a clear bowl? If so, these things are well known for being problematic for allowing air into fuel. I'd certainly check this thing out well prior to replacing fuel lines....a big job.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 11, 2025, 03:36:32 pm
Please teach me how to add pictures I am able to attach pictures on new posting not on reply
I would like to see a picture of your water separator. Is it a part of your primary filter with a clear bowl? If so, these things are well known for being problematic for allowing air into fuel. I'd certainly check this thing out well prior to replacing fuel lines....a big job.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 11, 2025, 03:38:41 pm
Do you mean i replace the water separator with a new one like this with clear glass on the bottom? Or replace it with one that it is not problematic Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on August 11, 2025, 04:20:53 pm
Please teach me how to add pictures I am able to attach pictures on new posting not on reply
Press the green reply button at the bottom right above the quick reply. A new window will open up and there will be a space to add pictures or files. You can either drop your picture file in the box or you can search for the file name and click on it.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on August 11, 2025, 04:24:36 pm
Since you are still having problem running the engine after priming with the remote fuel container, I would replace the water separator before attempting to replace the hoses. Others will chime in with the one you will need to use to replace the existing.
Back when you were surprised you used 2 gallons from the remote tank, remember that some of that 2 gallons made it back to your main fuel tank.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 11, 2025, 09:02:23 pm
Attached is a picture of how my water separator looks like I don't have an actual picture
By the way the engine stayed running until the fuel ran out in the canister . Lets remind i hade the solenoid plunger tied up with zip tie to keep the fuel valve open I really don't know how much fuel i had in the canister , will guess may be 1.5 gallons But when engine died , first i thought another problem is killing it But soon found out the canister was empty With little diesel left in it A mechanic was supposed to come today and see where it is getting air from But he didn't show up
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 11, 2025, 09:21:07 pm
Regarding removing the covers ( if i ended up replacing the hoses) I think I read it in on of the posting, " it was my biggest mistake taking the covers off " His reason was, too much weight of stuff Cables, wires hoses air lines etc Which made it miserable to put the cover back Specially lifting it against ceiling and line up the holes to re mount it I hope there are no zip ties holding hoses And if I found them hard to slide out, I may use the other member's idea , who left exiting hoses in the tunnel and using a telescopic rod he inserted the new hose in the tunnel Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 11, 2025, 09:30:57 pm
You can try leaving the covers up but I have found that sometimes the connection would get hung up going into the next compartment. The fuel water separator that you have is a good one.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck Pearson on August 12, 2025, 09:50:42 am
Attached is a picture of how my water separator looks like I don't have an actual picture
By the way the engine stayed running until the fuel ran out in the canister . Lets remind i hade the solenoid plunger tied up with zip tie to keep the fuel valve open I really don't know how much fuel i had in the canister , will guess may be 1.5 gallons But when engine died , first i thought another problem is killing it But soon found out the canister was empty With little diesel left in it A mechanic was supposed to come today and see where it is getting air from But he didn't show up
Edmond
Yes, that Racor unit should be fine, I thought maybe you had the old Winn style filter system.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 12, 2025, 10:07:10 am
Having fittings on will make it harder to pull the hoses threw. I bought a coupler and pushed the old hose and the new hose together and that allowed me to pull the hose through.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 12, 2025, 11:26:49 am
Thank you A mechanic who was going to show up yesterday was trying to bypass the water separator in case if that is the source of the leak He mentioned the clear glass section has the habit of getting cracked I told him but it's completely dry and no diesel leak He said " you will not see leak because there is suction there He didn't show up claiming he was very busy It could've been a good test to find out and make sure By the way beside pressurizing the tank , is there any other way to suck all the air out of the long hose? I was told the reason it's still not staying running is because there is still air in the fuel supply hose, and by hand pumping may not be able to prime it properly
Regarding " sometimes the connector hung up" What if the connector get wrapped with electric tape to give the Hose a smooth slide?
By the way since i want to have either prefabricated hoses or enough hose and connectors I like to ask this question What size is the fuel suply hose What size is fuel return hose What size is Gen. supply hose What size is Gen. return hose I know i need two connectors for each hose Do you know which kind? What thread? Etc
Finally if you read my post about doing the replacement in phases, can generator hoses be pulled through on a later day ? Or to do so the tank has to be out As I mentioned, i can attach the new hoses to the tank and couple them with existing hoses, and let them lay on top of the tank Will this work? I understand nobody may have done this before
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: wolfe10 on August 12, 2025, 11:41:04 am
By the way beside pressurizing the tank , is there any other way to suck all the air out of the long hose?
Edmond
Sure, as long as the level of the fuel in the tank is higher than the filter head, diesel will naturally flow from tank to filter.
This can be achieved by either filling the tank, raising the front of the coach or temporarily lowering the filter head.
No need to totally remove the filter, just loosen it and tighten it when clean diesel with no bubbles flows out.
This can also be done in conjunction with slightly pressurizing the tank-- with the filter loosened, it takes a lot less PSI to make the diesel flow.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Ndnflyr on August 12, 2025, 11:55:41 am
The photo below is for a 2000 u320 4010. Not sure who posted this and when but for what it is worth.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 12, 2025, 01:26:16 pm
Thank you both , hope the information on the 2000 U 320 is the same as 98 U 295 If I know the hoses sizes, I will do as one member posted, measure from the tank to the end of the bus and add 8 feet to it , and buy the correct fittings I don't know the length of hoses going to generator
Regarding loosening fuel water separator, it makes sense to remove the mounting bolts of the filter And loosen the filter a bit, then lower it down to the ground to be below the fuel tank level ( and pressurize the tank slightly if needed) and when it stopped, bubbling, tighten the filter and bring it back up and mount it Did I understood it right Wolfe?
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 12, 2025, 01:34:20 pm
Check fuel line prices it is cheaper to buy a 50' roll than 42' cut.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 12, 2025, 02:09:52 pm
OK, but I like to know if the fuel supply and fuel return lines from engine are the same hole and have the same fittings
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 12, 2025, 02:44:23 pm
5/8" supply, 1/2" return
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 12, 2025, 03:06:11 pm
Thank you, Craneman I don't mind to buy longer hose specially if it will be cheaper, but I need to make sure how much do I need? The measurements from the U 320 post, does not indicate these lengths are for which length of Foretravel For sure, 40 feet RV will take more hose than my 36 I will send an email to the dealers parts department. See if they can tell me by the VIN number. So far what I learned is that the fuel supply for both generator and engine are 5/8 And the return line from engine is 1/2" And the return line from generator is 3/8
If it was easy, I would have removed the existing hoses. Take them with me to a shop and have them make me identical hoses with identical fittings.
But since I cannot do that, I want to make sure that the fitting I am adding to the new hoses will connect to my tank and other connectors
It will be helpful if any of you guys can tell me or give me some knowledge about the connectors
Are they all standard in different sizes?? Are they different types? Do they come with different threads? Maybe a link for each of them would make my job easier to just click and order
Hope I'm not expecting too much from you guys million thanks Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 12, 2025, 03:07:40 pm
My 99 ISC was 5/8 and 1/2", JIC 10 and 8. A friend's 98 non ISC( mechanical 300/325 was 1/2 and 3/8 JIC 8 and 6. So you will need to know for sure. Generator was 5/16 JIC 5 I think. As is said if you choose trident marine barrier hose. you may find it much cheaper to buy 50' rolls instead cuts from the local hose shop. Also be very careful to make sure the hose is rated for Bio Diesel. You may want to check, I don't think your generator feed is 5/8
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 12, 2025, 04:49:39 pm
I re-used all my fittings on the fuel line change out I did. Mine is a 320 and as Bruce pointed out your 295 may have different diameter fuel lines. The generator sizes would be the same as the post number 154
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: wolfe10 on August 12, 2025, 05:53:14 pm
Thank you both , hope the information on the 2000 U 320 is the same as 98 U 295 If I know the hoses sizes, I will do as one member posted, measure from the tank to the end of the bus and add 8 feet to it , and buy the correct fittings I don't know the length of hoses going to generator
Regarding loosening fuel water separator, it makes sense to remove the mounting bolts of the filter And loosen the filter a bit, then lower it down to the ground to be below the fuel tank level ( and pressurize the tank slightly if needed) and when it stopped, bubbling, tighten the filter and bring it back up and mount it Did I understood it right Wolfe?
Edmond
YES, but lower it below tank level BEFORE breaking the seal on the filter. If you do it first, more fuel will run from filter head BACK to the tank.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 12, 2025, 07:40:29 pm
Definitely,
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 12, 2025, 09:02:19 pm
I recommend that you do the generator fuel lines at the same time as it would a lot easier. It might be possible to do the generator without removing the tank. I sent the first picture so you can see where the fittings are but the U320 has two extra fittings. Using string to tie up the hoses and gage wires makes the job easier as per second picture The third picture you can see a piece of string which helps make sure the fuel pickup doesn't get kink.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 13, 2025, 06:40:02 pm
I hear that the water separators like mine with clear glass on the bottom, have the habit of leaking air in the fuel system If I bypass the water separator , will junks and particles be able to go inside the engine ? or the fuel goes to the fuel pump a d then to the other filter before it gets in the injectors This could help troubleshooting if the leak is from the water separator Please advise
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 13, 2025, 07:04:26 pm
Where did you hear that your water separator has a habit of leaking. That is a very good filter system. If the plastic bowl was cracked, then you would be able to feel fuel on it when you ran your hand over it. I think that you need to pressurize the tank enough to get fuel back to the filter, then tie up the fuel solenoid and start it up. Let it run for a while. Untie the fuel solenoid and see if it keeps running. Then if it does turn it off. Let it sit for 5 minutes and then try to see if it starts and keeps running. You have to narrow down the problem and quit jumping around replacing this part and then that part. It is pretty expensive to keep throwing parts at it. While you have it running push the raise button and then let it fully raise turn off ignition and put in your safety stands. That way you can get under it to work on fuel lines if that is what is wrong. Definitely replace the generator fuel lines at the same time.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 13, 2025, 07:21:44 pm
One of local mobile mechanics told me about the water separator habit I'll follow your advice Thank you
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 14, 2025, 12:24:45 pm
I like to find out where the fuel return check valve on my mechanical 8.3 is located? Pictures can help more if possible Thank you
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on August 14, 2025, 01:53:52 pm
I like to find out where the fuel return check valve on my mechanical 8.3 is located? Pictures can help more if possible
I only found one reference to "fuel return check valve" on C8.3 engine, in the old Lewis Anderson post linked below. Read down toward the middle of the LONG post for the entry dated 10 June 2016:
Low Power From Engine (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=33322.msg302889#msg302889)
Looking up part number 3924726 brings up the page linked below. Isn't this the same check valve you already ordered (before you ordered the overflow valve)?
1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=49434.msg499207#msg499207)
Photo of my engine below, from when I replaced a leaking fuel line. This is the passenger side of engine. You can see the drain line (Ref #4 in parts diagram) coming across the top of the valve cover. It connects to the fuel filter mounting assembly with what is called a "check valve" (Ref #16 in the parts diagram). I think this "check valve" is the "fuel return check valve" that you seek.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 14, 2025, 04:27:52 pm
I changed the return check valve on the Monaco. I noticed one morning that I had less power and when I got home I did some trouble shooting and it looked like the valve was the problem so I changed it and the power come back. I don't think it would just shut the engine down and if it did I don't think it would start up again.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 14, 2025, 04:50:56 pm
Another hose replacement preparation question Let's say the fuel tank is out, and the hoses are connected before pushing the tank in how to make sure that there is no leaks from connectors because you don't want to wrap up everything, fill up the tank and then find out that there is some leak on the hoses
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 14, 2025, 05:34:36 pm
Just due diligence when assembling. The hose has to be pushed all the way into the hose and then the flare fittings are tight. At that point you have done all that is necessary.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 14, 2025, 08:20:31 pm
Can lubricant be used to push the connectors inside the hose?? Does anyone know if the existing connectors will fit Trident hoses?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 14, 2025, 08:49:18 pm
I used a heat gun to soften the hoses and used the same push on fittings I removed. No leaks after the installation years ago.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on August 14, 2025, 10:03:21 pm
I used a heat gun to soften the hoses and used the same push on fittings I removed. No leaks after the installation years ago.
If you go and doing any cutting on the hose to get it to release from the fitting, make sure you do not cut all the way through the hose. If you can see where you cut the hose on the fitting. Throw the fitting away.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 15, 2025, 12:06:16 pm
If and when pulling the tank , are all four hoses Supply and return of eng. And generator long enough to follow the tank ? At least half way out?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 15, 2025, 01:10:17 pm
If and when pulling the tank , are all four hoses Supply and return of eng. And generator long enough to follow the tank ? At least half way out?
In my case no. I had to use a crows foot to loosen the fittings with the tank in place. Added length to the new hoses to allow for removal in the future.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 15, 2025, 06:23:59 pm
Today I am working on building a fuel tank cap with valve stem to be able to pressurize at the tank But I noticed that the water separator, even if it's this mounted from the frame cannot be lowered down because the hoses are not free to go down. There are other obstacles and cables on its way to be lower down. So tomorrow, I will put the tank cap with the valve stem and having a friend of mine using bicycle pump to slowly pressurize the tank while I will loosen the filter and wait for the bubbles to clear up. Hope this will work.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 15, 2025, 07:27:31 pm
I imagine that your tank is like mine and it has a vent line. So to pressurize the tank the best way would be to pressurize the tank from there. My vent line can be got in front of the tank area and in the middle of the coach.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on August 15, 2025, 07:31:15 pm
Today I am working on building a fuel tank cap with valve stem to be able to pressurize at the tank
I thought all the fuel tanks used in various Foretravel model years came with some kind of air vent outlet somewhere on the tank. I'm pretty sure these big tanks would need some way to equalize the internal pressure during operation, and to accommodate pressure change from large fuel temperature swings. I think I remember reading about some kind of check valve in the vent to prevent fuel escaping in the case of a catastrophic rollover accident? I could be wrong.
If Edmond's tank does have a vent, then I don't see how trying to pressurize the tank with a bicycle pump is going to work.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 15, 2025, 09:20:48 pm
On my tank hooking a bicycle to the vent line would work as the fuel caps will hold the air pressure.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 16, 2025, 11:06:37 am
Every route, with one obstacle If the vent is in the middle, i see no way to reach it Water separator can not be lowered below fuel tank level to let diesel come through from the tank by itself Bunch of other things in it's hoses way
Vent will not allow to pressurize the tank
The prime pump on top of separator or on the lift pump can not bleed all the air in 30 feet hose
The electric water separator is over 700.00
Is a small electric pump able suck the fuel from 30 feet away?
How about I disconnect the hose from water separator and try to keep it higher and fill it with diesel then quickly connect it to the separator I am sure it will make a mess, but will it work?
One of my son says, buy yourself a travel trailer and get done. Hahaha
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on August 16, 2025, 11:21:10 am
I think my fuel tank vent terminates at the rear bulkhead. I'll try to get a picture.
On the OP's 1998 U295, assume you mean FRONT bulkhead, as the tank is immediately aft of the front bulkhead.
You should be able to trace the vent line, but start by looking at the front bulkhead as you face toward the rear at the front axle.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Geodmann on August 16, 2025, 11:52:14 am
My tank is in the second bay forward of the drive axle. This vent is at the rear bulkhead. I assume it is the fuel tank vent but I don't know for certain.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on August 16, 2025, 12:12:57 pm
My tank is in the second bay forward of the drive axle.
George,
You have a 2002 U320 with mid-ship fuel tank and AquaHot. Your fuel system is plumbed differently than OP's '98 U295.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 16, 2025, 12:45:14 pm
I keep reading bulkhead honestly I don't know what it means to look for never heard such name before
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 16, 2025, 12:49:23 pm
On this coach (98/295) the vent hose comes out the cable tray to the front end and turns straight down. It is clamped to the front bulkhead about 3" from the lower angle iron. While there check to make sure that a mud daubber hasn't filled it with a nest.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 16, 2025, 12:51:22 pm
I keep reading bulkhead honestly I don't know what it means to look for...
With coach raised to full height, and safety stands in place: 1. Crawl, or slide, under the front end of coach. 2. There is a vertical "wall" (bulkhead) that runs from one side of the coach to the other, located behind the front wheels, front axel, and generator. 3. Near the top center area of the bulkhead, there is an opening where the bundle of hoses and wires exits the utility tray. 4. Look for the rubber vent hose that Mike mentions, coming out of that bundle, pointing down towards the ground, and secured by a clamp.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: wolfe10 on August 16, 2025, 04:58:51 pm
On this coach (98/295) the vent hose comes out the cable tray to the front end and turns straight down. It is clamped to the front bulkhead about 3" from the lower angle iron. While there check to make sure that a mud daubber hasn't filled it with a nest.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: wolfe10 on August 16, 2025, 06:29:09 pm
On the basement ceiling. Contains all the wiring, hoses, etc. running fore/aft.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: wolfe10 on August 16, 2025, 07:15:26 pm
Same thing.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 16, 2025, 10:14:09 pm
Ok when i located the vent hose? I can clamp a wise grip on then i can use bicycle pump to pressurize the tank ?
Today i disconnected both hoses from water separator, trying to fill them up (old school) with diesel using a small funnel But it didn't work, each hose showed filled with only 1/4 of a cup I mount the hoses back and tied the solenoid with zip tie Started the engine it ran and shortly dies Back by the engine, i touched the priming pump on water separator, was soft requiring priming again I gave up and came home, frustrating. It looks like the 32" hose between water separator and lift pump gets primed, engine starts and stays running as long as the fuel in that hose get sucked in and partially used and the rest ran back to the tank through the return line
Is the new pump defected? Then why it makes engine run Sound like the system sucks air from somewhere Last could be the 30' hose I here a lot about system should have a check valve to stop fuel return to the tank Where is such valve? I am told it can not be the one way check valve on the return line Also it can not be the overflow banjo connector Which some say its not a one way valve and some say it is a one way valve I have not touched those yet In the mean time today on gogle i read, fuel lift pump has two built in one way check valves Any body confirm it? If so, could my newly installed cummins lift pump be defected?
Getting tired friends , never had such issue driving trucks for 28 years one of my trucks being a mechanical 8.3
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 17, 2025, 11:35:44 am
When we have an issue in our life, it takes away some sleep, thinking of a fix Last night this came to my mind Remember i built an 8' hose to try feeding fuel from a 5 gallon canister? How about i buy a box of 50' Trident hose Measure and cut a piece of it equal to , from tank to the rear of the coach plus 8 feet Insert a push on fitting on one end Attach it to the separator and submerge the other end in the fuel tank running it along the bus Using some kind of stands to keep it in the level of the existing hose ( if needed ) Then try to prime it and start the engine (Same canister test using fuel tank instead in longer distances ) If the engine stayed running , i have a bad hose Because i was able to prime the new hose
If the engine dies again , i will disconnect the hose from the separator , and this time i will fill the The whole hose with diesel ( some how ) To make sure i have a priming issue or the existing hose is bad and leaks which does not allow to be primed
then reconnect it to the separator and quickly submerge it in the tank ( hopefully without draining the fuel out of hose) Now, prime and start the engine If the engine stayed running , problem is the air is trapped in the existing hose , If the engine didn't stay running, air it's getting in the system from somewhere else , some kind of stuck one way check valve I think spending 150.00 on this hose worth the try Anyway i will need the hose to replace old one right after i was able to make it drive able Does it make sense?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 17, 2025, 11:40:21 am
Sorry 50' hose cost is 250.00
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 17, 2025, 12:16:28 pm
you might try these folks https://www.fisheriessupply.com/trident-marine-series-365-barrier-a1-marine-fuel-hose/365-0586 great folks to deal with 3/8 x 50 152.00, 1/2" 162.00, 5/8 198.00
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck Pearson on August 17, 2025, 02:01:56 pm
Edmond, it sounds like we have pretty much the same coaches, that is with a c8.3 engine with a P7100 Bosch fuel pump. If that is the case, and you know you do not have a CAPS injection pump, here is what I have done.
My fuel lines are original, guess I got lucky on em. The coach starts....instantly....no matter how long it has sat, which is typical for these non computerized engines. I replaced my original fuel primary filtration system with a Davco, and in doing that I opened my fuel lines and they drained back to tank. Couple reasons I went to the davco filter, one I suspected my primary filtration assembly to be leaking air, and the other being that I picked up a load of bad fuel and wanted to be able to see the actual condition of the primary filter. (Im not suggesting you install a davco, just relating my experience.)
I was able to prime my lines/filter with the prime button on the engine mounted fuel fpump. It took some doing, but found it easy to operate the primer button by taking about a 4' long piece of 1x2 wood, levering it against "something" and doing the prime ritual from above with bed open rather than standing on my head and operating primer. So, in my experience there was no need to pressurize fuel tank, install aux electric prime pump (though one would be nice)
If I were in your shoes, I'd get 5 gallon jug of fuel, and connect a short piece of hose to the intake of your filter assembly which, as I understand, you have recently replaced, hopefully with fresh o rings for filter, clear filter bowl, etc. Turn key on to open fuel solenoid. Do the prime thing on the lift pump on engine. Crank her up (it may be necessary to crack a couple injector lines if they have air in em) and let it run a while.is but don't let it suck air. To be double dog sure, I'd probably add more fuel to can, keeping fuel line submerged in diesel, even while adding fuel, let it sit overnight and see if it starts right. If it runs ok then you have found your problem, a leak in fuel supply between filter and tank, bad lines, loose fitting etc. Or insufficient fuel in tank but sure you checked that. ;)
One more thing...the Davco filter I installed has a check valve that prevents fuel drain back to tank. I assume your Racor has the same. If that check has somehow failed it would be a problem.....
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 17, 2025, 02:50:37 pm
I made a sketch from my learnings
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Dave Larsen on August 17, 2025, 03:22:43 pm
Edmond,
I may be having a hard time following, but back on page 6, in reply #135, it sounds like you got it started and running just fine with a short hose into a fuel can until the fuel ran out. You could try that again using Chuck's idea in reply #201. Use two fuel cans so that you can add fuel to the can that has your short hose in it. 10 gallons get you more than enough run time. If you do get it running that way again, I think you'll have confirmed that your old lines need to be replaced. Also remember to raise the coach while the air pressure is up so you can put the stands in.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 17, 2025, 05:28:43 pm
To answer you question on the sketch is Yes. The hose will be almost in the middle of the bulkhead and will be the only hose that comes down from the end of the cable tray.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: dsd on August 17, 2025, 06:06:40 pm
One of my son says, buy yourself a travel trailer and get done. Hahaha
Read post 179 Your Son may be correct Do not exceed 3.5psi You may soon be chasing cracks in your tank
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Doug W. on August 17, 2025, 07:30:14 pm
I've added compressed air to a couple Foretravel tanks through the fill neck without issue by using rags or a rubber glove with a slit secured with a zip tie. Pushed fuel to the back no problem, they also had vents.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 18, 2025, 01:20:13 am
Yes dave , it did run it using canister and a short hose Now i am trying to find out A- my bad hose need to be replaced B- the 30 feet hose full of air does not get primed Using hand pump C- if there is a splice on the hose , causing the Leak
If i use a long hose going along the side of the coach to the tank ( the tank to be like a canister) And the engine run after priming it,that tells me the problem is not air being in 30' hose, and it proofs that i have a bad hose But what if , it still didn't run ?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 18, 2025, 12:50:44 pm
So far i learned the when i pull out my tank ( half way) all four suply and return hoses are long enough to follow the tank without being disconnected from the other ends? What about the vent hose now?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Jeff & Sandy on August 18, 2025, 04:11:31 pm
Dumb question, why don't you just replace your fuel lines?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 18, 2025, 05:09:44 pm
I don't mind But , what if i replaced the hoses and it still didn't stay running?
Remember, I kept mentioning the RV in the storage. It's in a tight spot. Cannot be towed by a big rig, not enough room in front of it, not only that I don't want to be towed and get damaged I will replace the hoses when I get it to my shop even if the problem was solved Because in order to keep this safe on the road, I want to have peace of mind by having new hoses there But replacing them in a storage yard is not easy In If I make sure that I need to replace the hoses on the spot, I don't mind to do it because I have no other choice The question is how to make sure the hoses are the problem I think my last option, to use a 30 feet external Hose, using the fuel tank as a canister will answer this question That's what I am working on , ordering Trident, hoses and use it as a temporary Fuel Line from the tank if the engine stays running, then I will have to replace it knowing that was the problem There may be a very small chance that the problem is something else like leaking air in the system from another source, the splice in the hose, it cracked filter housing, stock check valve Or else And I am doing this because some of the members suggested " don't jump to the conclusion by replacing the hoses. You may have other problem."
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 18, 2025, 05:19:38 pm
I don't remember if I did ask this question does anyone know if our existing push on fittings will fit Trident hoses?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 18, 2025, 06:15:27 pm
yes they will. HOWEVER if you scratch the Barb that slides into the hose you will need a new fitting. Just be careful taking them off the old hose.
Agree. Only cut partially through the hose. Sometimes moderate heat on the hose makes it more pliable and easier to remove.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 19, 2025, 10:40:39 am
Attach is the hoses that Foretravel is using in Texas Which one is better Trident or these?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck Pearson on August 19, 2025, 11:28:02 am
That's a good question. I expect it would be easier to pull it through a chase a opposed to rubber line. Might have greater abrasion resistance. Probably more advantages for production environment, more compact, color coded.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 19, 2025, 12:27:47 pm
Then I wonder why most people who replaced the fuel lines have mentioned Trident,
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on August 19, 2025, 12:29:32 pm
Then I wonder why most people who replaced the fuel lines have mentioned Trident,
They were not aware of the other hose
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 19, 2025, 01:37:01 pm
So which one I should use the one that Foretravel installs or the Trident brand Actually, I don't know the cost of the Brown one And it cannot be ordered from Foretravel
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: turbojack on August 19, 2025, 02:07:50 pm
The new hose uses compression fittings. I would go with the trident hoses, since your fittings you have now will work.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 19, 2025, 02:17:48 pm
Do all four hoses have a straight connector on each end This is in case if I need to order new ones for Parker hose
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 19, 2025, 02:18:55 pm
Thank you, Turbojack
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: WS6_Keith on August 19, 2025, 03:41:20 pm
But , what if i replaced the hoses and it still didn't stay running?
I thought your test with the 5-gal fuel can verified that the engine will stay running (until it drained the 5-gal supply) using a separate fuel line? If so, this seems to point to your fuel lines leaking air so the fix should be the fuel lines.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 19, 2025, 04:14:21 pm
Yes, but one of the members mentioned since I replaced the fuel pump as well. The long hose coming from the tank may have drained all the fuel back in the tank and the whole hose it's full of air. It is not easy to prime that. That's why I'm thinking this could be the case otherwise yes I agree if this is not the case then my hose is leaking That's why the plan was to pressurize the tank in order to get Fuel running through this hose coming to the engine site and make sure there is no more air in it and then trying to start the engine If after a while didn't stay running that tells me for sure. The hose start leaking suddenly after I purchased the RV.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 19, 2025, 04:17:31 pm
By the way, any easy way to cut the caulking or silicone around the panel covering the driver side tank to be able to remove it?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 19, 2025, 04:48:35 pm
By the way, any easy way to cut the caulking or silicone around the panel covering the driver side tank to be able to remove it?
nope brute force, they put it there to stay. The problem is all the adhesive they put on the rack of the cover to the tank
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 19, 2025, 08:52:37 pm
Any way , lets say some elbow grease removed the cover, what is the stuff to glue it back when hopefully done
Do i pull both generator hoses together, or one at the time Does generator slide out? Do i connect the new hoses from tank side and pull them from Gen. side? Or connect new hoses on Generator side and pull them from tank side Same with engine hoses please advise
By the way is the vent hose long enough to allow tank being pulled out from passenger side? If not i may need to connect a new hose to the hanging end ( by bulkhead ) using hose clamps and probably duct tape to provide a smooth travel In this case what kind of hose is that and how is connected to the tank
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 19, 2025, 09:29:56 pm
The generator pulls out. there is two 5/16 bolts that needs to be undo and then it pulls out. When you get the covers off you might be able to see the vent line.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 19, 2025, 10:11:44 pm
Which covers? Sorry folks It's my first RV ownership I'm like a student on the job training And I appreciate all of you guys patience
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 19, 2025, 11:24:13 pm
The fuel tank covers, the ones that are a bitch to remove.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 20, 2025, 01:16:33 am
there are fuel tank covers behind generator? and they need to be removed ? or you are talking about the fuel tank cover plate on driver side next to house batteries compartment i am starting to getting to think, that it could be much easier to cut the floor i heard a lot from most owners, that pulling the tank out is easy, may be they didn't talk about pulling generator hoses? before receiving reply #229, i was making a list of preparation to replace my hoses hope Oldguy will explain what he means by fuel tank covers (with S ) where are they? how many covers must be removed in order to pull the tank out? any pictures?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: WS6_Keith on August 20, 2025, 09:57:05 am
I think your questions were answered in these other threads that were linked in here previously:
First step to fuel line replacement (Removing tank covers) (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=21064)
Fuel hose replacement post (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=35249.0)
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 20, 2025, 12:18:36 pm
Thank you, I have read all of those and maybe some more because I am trying to be comfortable attempting this project But still have following Questions 1-pulling the generator out, will it stand on its own track or it should be set on some kind of stand? 2- does anyone have Part number for the connectors needed on Trident hoses? I know if I can remove my existing ones carefully, I can use them on new hoses But I need to order a male to male coupler of all three sizes, also one push on connector for each size hose , to get my new hoses ready ( ahead of time ) to connect to the existing ones when tank is out Does anyone have the Part numbers for those? 3- do I remove the side door with its hinges attached? 4-sorry that I didn't pay attention, but I think there is some kind of gasket or caulking behind the frame of the door opening, Is it a Gasket or some kind of caulking or silicone? Please advise what is it to purchase? 5- also there is some kind of caulking or silicon on the driver side, fuel tank plate and some adhesive at attaching it to the tank Please advise what I should use to put it back
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 20, 2025, 04:03:59 pm
A local hydraulic shop suggest that the reusable fittings are much better than push on ones Does anyone agree ? since I am buying new ones I prefer to buy the best Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 20, 2025, 04:33:55 pm
The covers are where the fuel filler go through. The generator is on a pull out. You just remove the 5/16 bolts and the pull. Remove the hinges by undoing the Torx bolts and the hinges stay on the door. There silicone behind the frame.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 20, 2025, 06:21:27 pm
This is the first time I hear that there are some panels to be removed in order to replace the hoses
The only panel I was told to be removed was the one attached to the other end of my tank and driver side, which is to separate the fuel compartment with the battery compartment And there is no panel on the passenger side Do you have any pictures?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 20, 2025, 07:00:32 pm
The one on the battery side is the one that is being talked about. You should only pull one hose at a time to the generator, so that you don't get them mixed up. I can guarantee you one thing is that you will get very dirty pulling new hoses. I always felt like a little dirt never hurt anyone. If I remember correctly I didn't use anything to reattach the fiberglass panel because there were screws that hold it in place.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 20, 2025, 07:37:07 pm
A local hydraulic shop suggest that the reusable fittings are much better than push on ones Does anyone agree ? since I am buying new ones I prefer to buy the best Edmond
the push on ones are the " reusable ones" !!!
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 20, 2025, 08:09:46 pm
He showed me this as re useable, fitting can be removed without cutting the hose I am aware that ours are reuse able as well
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 20, 2025, 08:30:26 pm
Here are two pictures from both side of my tank No plate or cover on passenger side Driver side panel has only three screws If they were enough to hold the cover in place, they wouldn't be using adhesive to glue it to the tank Now, are there more covers to remove? Per Oldguy, behind generator Panel where? By the way , WHICH FILTER GOING THROUGH WHAT? sorry i may be confused, but i like to review whole procedure ahead of time to do the job correctly
Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 20, 2025, 09:29:34 pm
He showed me this as re useable, fitting can be removed without cutting the hose I am aware that ours are reuse able as well
I . I reused my old fittings, it's been 7/8 years no problem.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 21, 2025, 12:11:17 pm
Hi guys, I just placed an order for the hoses Trident as those posted and reply number 200
But when I asked the company about push on fittings, he said " we don't have the push on fittings for this hose. We have clamp on filling " or maybe he said crimp on fitting I may have heard it wrong. But anyway, I told them send me the hoses for now assuming as most of you mentioned, the existing feelings will fit the new Trident hoses I ordered them from Fisheries Supply SKU. 126461. 125973. 125971. Can any of you confirm if I order the correct hose? Thank you all Edmond
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 21, 2025, 03:21:55 pm
As I said way back they don't recommend push on fittings for trident hose. But myself and a few others reused the old fittings and no issues. However DO NOT put hose clamps on the push on fittings. I did put a black tie wrap on mine. As I said I did my fuel lines a 7 or so years ago. Your call new fittings$$$ old fittings free.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 21, 2025, 03:31:08 pm
Thank you bbeane
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 21, 2025, 05:21:53 pm
Do I insert the hoses inside a braided jacket before pushing them through I believe I read somewhere that the braided jackets can prevent the hoses from animals and rubbing damage. Also, they mentioned the jacket will make them easier to slide.
Have anybody experienced this?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 23, 2025, 10:13:23 am
Didn't use them on mine.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 23, 2025, 06:06:52 pm
Another update Today , I Filled a five gallon canister, to feed diesel I tried to start the engine after priming It did not stay running Unplugged the solenoid and zip tied it in up position Primed and started the engine, it did die shortly Removed the solenoid all together ( it felt hot) and tied up the injection pump's valve using Zip ties Filled up the canister again ( because most of the fuels drains back in tank through the return line)
This tells me that on top of having air in the system, the solenoid is either bad because was hot, or its out of adjustment E( plunger goes all the way up but the valve is not 100% open?)
This time It sure ran and stayed running, after air pressure was built , I raised it up and quickly run out (Before my fuel in canister finish) and start placing the safely blocks UNFORTUNATELY I was able to place only 7 of them and it wasn't because i didn't have enough pressure, the gauges were showing 130 and 110 PSI Yet the coach wouldn't rise more
PREVIOUS OWNER HAD A 4x4 WOOD BLOCK WHICH WAS 9 3/4" I USED THAT
PLEASE ADVISE WHAT COULD CAUSE THIS? My blocks are 11 3/4" on the front driver side I was able to place the one behind the wheel, but i only had 10" room in front of the wheel, and my block wouldn't fit I placed the 9 3/4 tall wooden block as better than nothing
Check my post on safety blocks page
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on August 23, 2025, 07:11:00 pm
Edmond,
You need to keep holding the RAISE button until both air pressure gauges show max system pressure 130 psi.
Try following the procedure in the link below. See if it works any better. You should not have to hurry installing the blocks, if you follow the procedure. The coach should stay in the fully raised position for a long time, even without the blocks in place.
Safety Stand Placement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=38814.msg379333#msg379333)
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 23, 2025, 08:46:57 pm
After you got it all the way up you need to hold the raise button until you shut off the engine. If the key is on the HWH will go into travel mode and it will start dropping.
The solenoid will get hot and it sounds like it is not adjusted properly.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: WS6_Keith on August 24, 2025, 12:24:24 am
One other thing is that if the location you are at is not flat, it's possible that one corner may not fully come up. My safety blocks are pieces of 4x4 wood which stand on end, so in some cases, I've had to turn them on their side and add some 2x4's when I couldn't get one corner up enough to get the blocks in standing up.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 24, 2025, 01:03:44 am
The parking spot is flat The engine died because the canister ran out Of fuel I may have left the key in on position in order to make leveling control panel work only one air bag didn't go high enough , no idea why I will test both the old and new solenoids tomorrow morning to make sure sure they both work , also will make sure the new ons adjustment matches the old one
I can go tomorrow and run it again with a full canister , hopefully it will run long enough to raise the coach
Does the leveling panel have an on /off button? Or as soon as engine runs, which key will be in ON position , the leveling panel will work I learned that when both tanks reach 130 PSI I can place the block and turn the engine off
Today i received the hoses, i am planing to use push one fittings But planing to order new push on fittings for one end of hoses , also needed male/male couplers
Because , doing this project in a daily limited time at storage yard, i need to have hoses ready in advance , to be connected to the removed ones In less time Then, i can remove enough of the existing fittings To attach to the other end of hoses
BUT, honestly i am still thinking if i can prime the long hose coming from the tank ( over 30 feet ) the engine will stay running
Then when i drove it to my shop , replacing hoses will be much easier
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 24, 2025, 01:18:36 am
What kind of damage can pressurizing tank can cause I will loosen the fitting connected to water separator, then using a bicycle pump will pump air in the tank slowly, until i see fuel coming out of the separator fitting
If i didn't see fuel coming, that means the air is escaping through the vent, then i can block the vent hose, and try again I still like to know why some of you guys believe this is dangerous , why is it?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 24, 2025, 01:55:44 am
Are these clamped hoses my generator fuel lins?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 24, 2025, 06:48:31 am
What kind of damage can pressurizing tank can cause I will loosen the fitting connected to water separator, then using a bicycle pump will pump air in the tank slowly, until i see fuel coming out of the separator fitting
If i didn't see fuel coming, that means the air is escaping through the vent, then i can block the vent hose, and try again I still like to know why some of you guys believe this is dangerous , why is it?
Lets say the top of your fuel tank is 6' x 2' in size. 12 sq.ft. = 12 x 144 sq in per sq. ft. =1728 square inches Say someone pumps this up to 5 psi with air. 5psi X 1728 sq inches =8640 lbs of force being exerted against the top. The tank is not made to handle that amount of force. In addition, that same 5 psi is being exerted against all other surfaces of the tank.
So, no matter how you pressurize the tank it needs to be a small amount, maybe 1 psi. Better to get a small suction pump (like a throwaway plastic fuel transfer pump) and suck the fuel from end of disconnected hose.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 24, 2025, 10:22:49 am
Are they connected by hose clamp? I have been talking about fittings all time Please clarify
Yes. Top hose is return to tank Bottom hose is suction/fuel to generator
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 24, 2025, 10:31:00 am
Thank you chuck for scientific explanation Good idea to use a suction hand pump Hope i can figure out a way to connect the hose fitting ( removed from the separator) to be able to quickly re- attach it to separator without allowing fuel to run back in the tank
Lets say the top of your fuel tank is 6' x 2' in size. 12 sq.ft. = 12 x 144 sq in per sq. ft. =1728 square inches Say someone pumps this up to 5 psi with air. 5psi X 1728 sq inches =8640 lbs of force being exerted against the top. The tank is not made to handle that amount of force. In addition, that same 5 psi is being exerted against all other surfaces of the tank.
So, no matter how you pressurize the tank it needs to be a small amount, maybe 1 psi. Better to get a small suction pump (like a throwaway plastic fuel transfer pump) and suck the fuel from end of disconnected hose.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on August 24, 2025, 11:19:33 am
Hope i can figure out a way to connect the hose fitting ( removed from the separator) to be able to quickly re- attach it to separator without allowing fuel to run back in the tank
Simply install a full opening, quarter turn, stainless steel ball valve in the fuel line that runs from the tank to the first filter. That way, you can close the valve, and then leisurely work on or change either the primary or secondary filters without worrying about fuel siphoning back to the tank.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: wolfe10 on August 24, 2025, 11:49:54 am
Simply install a full opening, quarter turn, stainless steel ball valve in the fuel line that runs from the tank to the first filter. That way, you can close the valve, and then leisurely work on or change either the primary or secondary filters without worrying about fuel siphoning back to the tank.
Agree, a diesel compatible ball valve on the INLET side of the primary fuel filter. Makes changing filters a leisurely job and also makes a heck of an anti-theft device.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 24, 2025, 02:00:39 pm
Are they connected by hose clamp? I have been talking about fittings all time Please clarify
Those hoses are held on by those gear clamps. Just take the hose clamp loose and the hoses will slip off the fitting as these 2 are different than all the others on a hose change out.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Dave Larsen on August 24, 2025, 03:57:09 pm
The parking spot is flat The engine died because the canister ran out Of fuel I may have left the key in on position in order to make leveling control panel work only one air bag didn't go high enough , no idea why I will test both the old and new solenoids tomorrow morning to make sure sure they both work , also will make sure the new ons adjustment matches the old one
I can go tomorrow and run it again with a full canister , hopefully it will run long enough to raise the coach
Does the leveling panel have an on /off button? Or as soon as engine runs, which key will be in ON position , the leveling panel will work I learned that when both tanks reach 130 PSI I can place the block and turn the engine off
Today i received the hoses, i am planing to use push one fittings But planing to order new push on fittings for one end of hoses , also needed male/male couplers
Because , doing this project in a daily limited time at storage yard, i need to have hoses ready in advance , to be connected to the removed ones In less time Then, i can remove enough of the existing fittings To attach to the other end of hoses
BUT, honestly i am still thinking if i can prime the long hose coming from the tank ( over 30 feet ) the engine will stay running
Then when i drove it to my shop , replacing hoses will be much easier
You need to hold the raise button on the HWH until it is fully raised and turn the key off BEFORE releasing the raise button.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 24, 2025, 04:42:33 pm
Does this mean turn the engine off before releasing raise button? If yes, i had the solenoid removed and the pump valve was zip tied in open position already Turning the key off wouldn't shut the engine Engine was running until the canister ran out of fuel and engine died What happens if the ignition key stays in on position after engine is shut Will it still affect raising? Remember, only one out of 8 bags did not raised
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 24, 2025, 04:46:42 pm
My understanding during last month was that fuel lines have push on flare fitting Please see my generator picture and let me know why the lines have hose clamps? By the way generator always starts
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 24, 2025, 04:56:03 pm
One more question If i am ordering the push on flare fittings What i should order to have the correct thread to mount where the old hoses were mounted I still like to know what i need to do with generator hose clamps connectors, do i install my new hoses with them connectors? Or what do need to convert to 3/8" push on fittings
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Pamela & Mike on August 24, 2025, 05:05:42 pm
Please see my generator picture and let me know why the lines have hose clamps?
Like the post above those fittings are just a push on and you will find that the barbed end is somewhat loose in that hose so the hose clamps are needed to keep them tight. These most likely these were the only fittings that they had on the shelf during production. These ends are different than the ones on the other end that is attached to the tank. The ones on the tank end are the flair/push on like the rest of the hoses have.
Mike
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Dave Larsen on August 24, 2025, 07:34:45 pm
Does this mean turn the engine off before releasing raise button? If yes, i had the solenoid removed and the pump valve was zip tied in open position already Turning the key off wouldn't shut the engine Engine was running until the canister ran out of fuel and engine died What happens if the ignition key stays in on position after engine is shut Will it still affect raising? Remember, only one out of 8 bags did not raised
If the key is on, the HWH system will release the air to drop the coach to ride (travel) height. On mine it drops quickly.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: red tractor on August 24, 2025, 08:01:44 pm
I would think that if the key is turned off and even though the engine continues to run because the fuel is tied open, the HWH would not be releasing any air because no power to the travel solenoids.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 24, 2025, 10:53:48 pm
So , do new foretravel RVs have same hose clamps connectors used on the generator?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Doug W. on August 25, 2025, 11:22:21 am
I would think that if the key is turned off and even though the engine continues to run because the fuel is tied open, the HWH would not be releasing any air because no power to the travel solenoids.
Probably a bad idea to run engine with the Ignition off it may damage Internals of alternator.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Dave Larsen on August 25, 2025, 01:56:17 pm
With no load from the vehicle's electrical system the alternator can generate extremely high voltages which can quickly damage sensitive electronic components. The open circuit condition is very stressful for the alternator's diodes and voltage regulator, potentially causing them to fail or be destroyed.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on August 25, 2025, 05:28:10 pm
With no load from the vehicle's electrical system the alternator can generate extremely high voltages which can quickly damage sensitive electronic components.
I wonder if the DUVAC alternators, commonly fitted to our coaches, would be protected from this potential damage?
With ignition key turned to OFF, the "excite" input would be removed from the alternator. It would still have the "sense" input.
If the alternator is actively generating voltage when the ignition key is turned off, will it continue to generate voltage without the "excite" input?
Must the "excite" input be seen continuously by the alternator during operation, OR is it only required for initial activation, and then superfluous?
If the alternator would cease all electrical operation (I.E. generating voltage) when the "excite" input is turned off, then it might avoid being damaged.
What say the Forum electrical gurus?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Dave Larsen on August 25, 2025, 07:19:07 pm
Yes, the sense wire is connected to battery voltage. No reason for the alternator to do anything goofy. You nailed it Chuck. Does that make you a guru?
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Doug W. on August 25, 2025, 07:37:19 pm
No reason for the alternator to do anything goofy.
....it cost me a alternator rebuild some years ago on my sailboat, someone forgetting to pull manual shut off on diesel engine before ignition switch, it was a pretty simple system. Duvac or no Duvac why take the chance....
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 25, 2025, 11:57:48 pm
Sounds like the subject of setting safety blocks ended up learning how alternator will act if the engine is running with key in on position I like to add another possibility, lets say we try to turn the engine off, but the solenoid spring is broken and after the key is turned off the engine still will stay running until removing the solenoid
But lets go to original issue I ran the engine using a 5 ballon canister while solenoid was removed and pump valve was zip tied in open position After i felt the coach is raised, i didn't turn the key to off position knowing that will not shut off the engine And quickly walk out and started placing the safety blocks At this point the canister ran out of fuel and engine died, the key still in on position ( didn't know i have to turn it off to keep the coach in raised position , did i have to do that?) Continued placing blocks The last one did not fit by the driver side front of the wheel air bags, almost needed two more inches to place the block Please respond to this , what caused it? Running out of diesel? But the gauges showed 130 on one and 110 on second tank There was a 9 3/4 wood block which i placed there the opening was 10" and my blocks are 11 3/4 Please help fixing this now Placing the blocks was to fix the air in the system and preparing to replace the hoses Now , another thing to figure out
I am sorry to mix subjects together I also asked " if all the hoses have push on connectors ? If so why there are hose clamps on generator lines Did Foretravel use hose clamps on some hoses? If i attempt to replace my hoses, I like to do it professional, no hose clamps Please advise on either subject Thank you all members
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: Dave Larsen on August 26, 2025, 06:21:34 am
As long as the key is on, the travel solenoids will release air as soon as you stop pushing the raise button.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 26, 2025, 08:56:52 am
Let the air pressure reach 120 shut the engine off and then let go of the raise button.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 26, 2025, 09:48:18 am
Lets see if I understand this correctly -I have safety blocks in place -I start the engine ( assuming the solenoid is back on and working ) -wait for pressure built up to 120 ( unless my gauges are old one shows 130 and the other shows 110) -push and hold the raise ( how can I tell when the coach raised all the way up?) -turn the engine off then release the raise button ( otherwise, if I let the raise button go, the coach will not stay up and will drop to travel position because the key is in on ) - then I can go out, place or remove the safety blocks -by turning the engine on, the coach automatically drops to travel position
Was I a good student? If i was , now teach me the leveling process Thank you
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 26, 2025, 09:53:30 am
While you are holding the raise button wait for the air pressure gauge to go back to 120 or what ever your cut-off pressure is that will be the highest the coach will raise then turn off the ignition.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 26, 2025, 10:03:54 am
Can some one please send me a picture of what kind of connection is this on generator It looks like the hose gets pushed on and then tighten the hose clamp It doesn't look like a flare push on clamp with a swivel nut like the 5/8 hoses connected to water separator As i said, i want to prepare myself ahead of time before i attempt replacing hoses
in order to have flare type connection on generator, i must remove the existing ports and replace them with a male flare, then attach a swivel female push on flare connector to the 3/8" hoses Advise please
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 26, 2025, 10:19:22 am
A barbed fitting with a hose clamp been used for over a hundred years on cars, trucks, stationary equipment etc. Nothing wrong with it leave it alone.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 26, 2025, 11:20:10 am
I agree that for years the hose clamp works I read on forum , the existing push on connectors, if can be removed without damaging them, can be used on Trident hoses and works without clamp Even the existing fuel hoses on the engine don't have hose clamp I try to understand why on generator fuel lines i don't see same connection
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 26, 2025, 11:44:40 am
I agree that for years the hose clamp works I read on forum , the existing push on connectors, if can be removed without damaging them, can be used on Trident hoses and works without clamp Even the existing fuel hoses on the engine don't have hose clamp I try to understand why on generator fuel lines i don't see same connection
just leave it alone if it works dont mess with it. If however you feel the need to change it get you 50-60 bucks worth of new JIC fittings and go for it.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 26, 2025, 11:58:21 am
The generator they decided the hose clamp fittings, both work fine.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: craneman on August 26, 2025, 12:23:18 pm
I agree that for years the hose clamp works I read on forum , the existing push on connectors, if can be removed without damaging them, can be used on Trident hoses and works without clamp Even the existing fuel hoses on the engine don't have hose clamp I try to understand why on generator fuel lines i don't see same connection
They are 2 different fittings. The one with the plastic ring is a push-on and has sharp large barbs. Use a clamp and it will cut the hose. The regular barb fitting has shallow barbs and needs a clamp.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 26, 2025, 04:26:49 pm
Thank you, i have the Trident hoses already Will use the existing fittings but i will buy one of each 5/8 and 1/2" and two of the 3/8 ones for the generator end I read on forum that the connections on tank fitting do not have claps and are push ons I don't mind to at the clamp in the attached picture on the push on fitting for extra security But if one of us used push on fittings seven years ago and didn't have an issue, it means there is no need for clamps I also will search to see what are JIC fittings
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 26, 2025, 04:33:53 pm
Sorry forgot to add clamp picture Is it going to be better to use or it can cut the hose
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: rvquestion on August 27, 2025, 12:14:58 am
just leave it alone if it works dont mess with it. If however you feel the need to change it get you 50-60 bucks worth of new JIC fittings and go for it.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: oldguy on August 27, 2025, 10:49:11 am
The fittings are SAE not JIC. JIC fittings will screw on to SAE fittings but they have a different seating angle. Also JIC fittings are steel while SAE are brass. Just use ordinary hose clamps.
Title: Re: 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
Post by: bbeane on August 30, 2025, 10:34:00 am
I beleave SAE AND JIC fittings can be had the steel, brass or stainless.