Hi every one, i did search for the information about safety block to place in frame when dumping the airbags to be able to get under the Rv
A- are they available to buy?
B- what size they are supposed to be?
C- can i just cut some 4x4 pieces to use?
Edmond
1998 u295
I went to harbor freight and bought eight of the 2x2x12 hitch extensions. They work perfectly (except on my IFS front) but that's another story. They store neatly next to the basement drawer too.
I use 12" 4x4 PT blocks
Have used them for 10 years now.
I second the recommendation for HF receiver tubes. They are perfect length and have a thick non-rust powder coating.
Link below to thread with photos showing correct stand placement:
Safety Stand Placement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=38814.0)
What is the process for adding these blocks? Can one person do it?
Yes, no problem. Please read Reply #5 in the thread I linked above. Here, I'll add it again to save you the trouble of looking:
Safety Stand Placement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=38814.0)
One Hint: Make sure your air pressure is at the maximum = 120# so that the rear of the coach lifts all the way up. The rear is the heaviest, and it takes more air pressure to lift it.
I second this approach, thick sidewalls, affordable, tough. Don't drop them on your toes.
Amen brother! In a pinch, you can use two of them for light dumbbell workout weights.
4x4 lumber does work just fine also.
Sorry , what PT stands for?
Because i think carrying 8 twelve inch 2x2 tubing with 1/4" wall is to much of weight
Edmond
I believe PT probably refers to "pressure treated" ground contact lumber.
I will respectfully disagree with Justin and Dave. It is
possible (however improbable) for a wood block like shown in the photo to split down the grain. If one was to fail, the others might also give way in a cascading event.
In my opinion (everybody has one), it is safer to use steel safety stands as recommended earlier in this thread.
The weight of 8 steel stands will be insignificant compared to all the other junk you will accumulate in your storage bays.
HOWEVER, it is your coach and your life, so you should do whatever seems safest and most appropriate
to you. DWMYH
When I bought my coach it came with wooden blocks and I made my own as I wanted them longer.
As a retired Heavy Duty Mechanic I had be blocking heavy equipment with wooden blocks for years
without any problems. the blocks I am using are 3 x 31/2 and are hardwood.
Chuck's correct, the weight of 8 stands isn't going to matter too much.
As far as safety, solid steel would be better than tubing. Of course the safest thing would be to never get under there. A person can paralyze themselves with "what if" scenarios.
I've had a question about aluminum square tubing for safety blocks from another forum member. I suggested he find out the strength of the aluminum before using, I prefer to use steel 1/4" wall personally. Jim.
The compressive strength of 3/32 round tubing is the weight of the coach individually, but they must be placed perfectly square. The 1/4" square tube gives you endless safety factor even if you put the in out of square. 1/4 in aluminum alloyed would be fine. I use 1/8" galvanized pipe with no concerns. BUT I was taught never to use wood on end with the grain. Figure 4000+ lbs per square inch 4x4 = 12.25 sqin. 14000 lbs each Any internal flaw would go undetected till it failed. Lots of stories about Model T spokes made from oak failing being to brittle. 🤷most metal has some engineering and will support a lot of weight end to end in compression.
Key takeaways
A 2" x 2" x 0.250" ASTM A500 Grade B steel tube has a minimum yield strength of 46,000 psi.
For a 1-foot length, this tube is more likely to fail by crushing (yielding) than buckling.
DWMYH
Can someone speak to how flat the coach should be in order to use blocks? I feel like if I am on uneven ground there would be risk of twisting rhe body. Is this an issue or am I over thinking it.
I would think if you can put them all in its level enough
Well, the steel tubing is undoubtably stronger than wood, but to me it seems more likely that a piece of steel square tubing is more likely to "kick out" under pressure if improperly placed on the steel frame. Probably unlikely but possible. I would want a plate ( or channel iron) welded to the ends to prevent this from happening.
According to the chart above (Dsd post) pressure treated yellow pine at almost 8,500 lbs before crushing, I feel it's a very safe option. I always use all eight blocks ( 8 x 8500 = 68,000) and we weigh about 28000 fully loaded.
I may switch to steel one day but I would want something welded to the ends so there is no way they could slip.
So everything is level. The ends are cut square. They always stay in position when lifting coach to remove. I agree with you but cant imagine one kicking out. I've never had one fall out unloaded even in high winds. I've even heard of one of our members forgetting to remove one and driving down the road without issue. You would only need a button for the tube to go over??? Scott
I painted mine (yes HF tow hitch extensions) bright yellow so I see them and do not forget to take one out
Hello David, I painted my safety blocks in red and white candy stripe. They really stand out.
What view do you guys have storing the RV with the blocks installed? I did this winter because I was doing so much work under the coach but was thinking I may make that regular practice.
I store my coach on 9 inch blocks ever year in alberta winter to take the pressure off the bags and ensure it remains level without the compressor having to operate at all. As a note i put the stands in every time i park it for periods of time during summer as well
I've had mine on safety stand for 2 months now, not an issue.
Honestly I really don't think it's much of an issue either way. My biggest concern would to get the road grime off them and then keep them out of the sun. Yes they are inflated like a tire but don't share the same issues. The UV is probably the biggest factor. So I store my coach under shade and am required to have the front bags fully inflated and the rear flat if I want to keep the coach level. I can't tell that there has been any difference. The removed bags that were 20+ years old looked brand new inside and UV damaged on the sunny exposed sides. Prior owners had it under a hay shade so it got morning and afternoon exposure daily since it was parked in 2007 deflated and they worked fine for thousands of miles when I picked it up. 🤷
Today while i was trying to figure out my engine Issue, after i had it running i realized the air bags aired up and lifted the coach
looked under the body to see where is the location to place the blocks
finding the spot , it appeared that the blocks i made will not fit
Oh No, on the forum i read to buy some hitch adaptor from harbor-freight for 15 dollars each, but studying more members posting , i learned that the 12" blocks will be too hard to put in place and some time too hard to remove them
therefore I did not buy those which 8 of them would have cost 120.00 instead i ordered some to be cut to 11 3/4 size which they cost 167.00
then I painted them yellow still hanging to get completely dry, they ended up beautiful, I also am looking for a plastic box to be
4x8x12 an exact size to fit all eight for an easy storage
but the BAD NEWS
today I measured the space it was 8 3/4
i am not sure if, may be the airbags were not inflated or my coach has shorter air bags?
but to me the airbags looked like fully up
please advise if some coaches like mine with 8 airbags and leveling system has smaller air bags?
Edmond
I would guess that your coach does not have shorter air bags. It is more likely the air bags were not fully inflated. However, I could be wrong - see Reply #32 in this thread.
In the link below I describe my procedure for inserting my
12" long safety stands. Works for me. You might try it and see if you have any better luck.
Safety Stand Placement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=38814.msg379333#msg379333)
You were probably only at "ride height" you must hold the "Raise" button until they are fully inflated. Air pressure will probably need to be at least 80 PSI if not more depending on how heavily the coach is loaded. You should have 12" between frame members at or near the shock mounts. I use 4 x 4 yellow pine, seen partially in the pic.
When I go to put in position the HF tow hitch extensions I have about 1.5" extra space until the bags deflate slightly. I need max air at about 120 and sometimes the raise feature requires a few extra attempts to get the air bags fully extended.
I used 2x2 .125 tubing cut to 113/4. What always works for me is to manually raise the coach until I see the rear air bag gauge come up and hold steady at about 100 pounds. Then I cut off the engine while holding the raise button. I can then easily place the safety blocks in place. Chock a wheel and go to work. When new to coach I ran around like a rabbit trying to place blocks before the coach settled down because I left engine running. The link in post 27 made my life much easier. I carry my yellow painted blocks in a small Home Depot black plastic box with yellow stackable lid. I also put my air chuck, inline air filter and drill accessories in the box with those heavy stands in the bottom. I have a stack of three boxes with the safety stand box at the bottom, cause it's heavy. They always go with the coach, never left at home.
We have a 97 u270 and I have worked on lots of Foretravel coaches over the years. I was in shock the first time I tried to raise our coach to put in my set of safety stands and they would not fit. The fellow we bought it from had taken it to a truck spring place and they didn't put in the same number of bag as it originally had. They are about 2 inches shorter. It gets to ride height, but wonder if it would be a smoother ride with the larger bags. Always something different it seems. Maybe they were cheaper and they probably had them in stock.
The 12" HF extensions should definitely work. I just start the engine, wait for full pressure, then push the raise button. On my coach, once I push the raise button it keeps trying to raise the coach until I push the stop button. So I just wait until it gets high enough and slide the blocks in place. There is at least a 1/2" of clearance. Then I lower it a little so it sits on the blocks.
Some coaches (like mine) have "momentary" raise and dump buttons - some have "latching" buttons. I don't know when the change occurred.
Link below to the
HWH Air Leveling System Text Book. Highly recommended reading for all Foretravel owners.
On page 28 (MI40.028A) and page 29 (MI40.029A) the two different types of raise and dump buttons are described:
https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml20635.pdf
Ok finally i did build eight blocks
2"x2" square tubing with 1/4" wall
I made them 11 3/4 because I read on a posting that 12" ones ( from Harbor Freight) sometimes are to hard to remove
I did paint them safely yellow
Then I was searching for some kind of box to be heavy duty and correct size to store them in the coach
End up finding this Makita box at home depot
Total cost for blocks was 166.00 plus 10.00 paint
And 60.00 box = 236.00
Some times the expense must be done
See attached