I thought I had a de-lamination problem but it turns out that the trim belt that runs along the sides of the RV came loose for about 6'.
I found the screws that screw into the body are pulled out.
I know others have dealt with this trim in the past so I thought I might get some info on how the belt is screwed into the motorhome.
What was your solution in re screwing this trim back if the holes are too big since they stripped out?
Can over sized screws in diameter or length be substituted?
Is that wood that the screws screw into?
Can the holes in the body be filled in then re-drilled to the original size?
Is there a better screw than the factory choice?
Thanks.
One simple way is to push toothpicks with glue on into holes then using new stainless steel screws #8 a bit longer than old to hold trim strip. Put some quality caulking on screws to help stop water intrusion.
This method works and easy to do. No drilling needed.
Johnh
I had the same problem with my 87 GV, the screws are into the end of the floor panels which are plywood hence no bite. As John suggests square wood toothpicks and some wood glue maybe even a spritz of water first. I think your screws are 1 inch and another half inch will cure it, galvanized or stainless either will do.
I used to use toothpicks and glue but I find epoxy and and steel wool works better. I usually use
West Systems G Flex and 104 or 106 West Systems powder to make the epoxy into a paste works
the best.
Thanks for the tips.
Hard to imagine that Foretravel designed this the way they did. If the screw only attaches to the end grain of the floor.
Does the screw go through the plywood wall and then into the floor for a bit more strength?
Now that that strip is loose and I see what those little screws are tasked with holding, I shack my head.
On my U320 the bay doors travel up (thus the scalper nick name). All the weight of the bay doors seems to be supported only by the strength of that belt strip. Plus the load put on by the two struts that hold the doors open.
Has anybody re- engineered this design for more strength?
Seems like a good time to do a re-design.
Is there enough wood for the screws to grab if I re-drilled those screw holes to a larger diameter?
Has anybody seen a schematic of the actual construction of this assembly?
I have thought of cutting the trim belt about 1" and moving it down the side, that would allow a new hole without having to fill all the current stripped holes.
Looks like about 60 screws per side.
Again, thanks everyone for your help.
I don't remember on my 1997 U295 that trim being fasten to wood. If yours is wood, I think they made a change in latter years.
I use #10 x 1" stainless ovel head sheet metal screws. Available from Amazon way cheaper than locally.
Amazon.com: The Hillman Group 2943 10 x 1-Inch Stainless Steel Oval Head... (https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-2943-Stainless-Phillips/dp/B00HYN4ID6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1PS4GD4A98IY3&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.vaOvh0hyyOWMgtciZxOXjuDeIpP5YKXBxeqlKPQeQbADlAYye_g2_Ca9n_yxQM4J9ijNMnChBbAcTp7rxNmH6NvGmFWr2aGihjw1JQCLAuRpKOHhuGg-90nbTkz1kLEYU6kxIlR-SvQMGBP3bSF0knGcQiFEcVf32KjxDSDGuUGtDHlWbhktfJiWcSs06DDaTNyovhpBSu1SoSUdks_ZUFv2aKDpVYHGotpt6Evx-wI.WURDmz_kGPhuNOX6sO3KKR84dMRfIpgb7JQrj9VVs4U&dib_tag=se&keywords=2943+screws&qid=1752545364&sprefix=2943+screws%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-3)
#10 x 1 Oval Head Sheet Metal Screws, Phillips Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8,... (https://www.amazon.com/Phillips-Stainless-Self-Tapping-Quantity-Fastenere/dp/B01LWMBB01/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3SQUPQGYYPGOI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.c80qxlbrnIRgvhdDZ6_3x4yzo6o-4K_g50p2bi9lnqA0MBHASBmZIoOpuhmTiF_Ud49yWNH6r3H2CahfSFdvC7kRWXI1RbnU0PLMjU8H2ZEBPVSGkcyGdHszHS2MZ3IPTS30KpMY7qBoP1ZH7MZPgQXwevpFSwCq7pdR5AYrY3YTnfls4cbfJxza0R4BoCbuQebDHWvtikfp4e0_FEvB8DinfnH166NUYb3qeeQT39kQ032PLMLDNzs0kH-NHOS8mBBCwGwh0vf0PhL9BP3EUzIeR29IbsNZy5e8pRbbtb0.HKmkn0W4vqJfUzDEEO-dvHP6PGiUuOa9OELugy1hNM4&dib_tag=se&keywords=10%2Bx%2B1-Inch%2BStainless%2BSteel%2BOval%2BHead%2BPhillips%2BSheet%2BMetal&qid=1752545510&s=hi&sprefix=10%2Bx%2B1-inch%2Bstainless%2Bsteel%2Boval%2Bhead%2Bphillips%2Bsheet%2Bmetal%2Ctools%2C134&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1)
We have had some issues with our coach, and now every 6 months I make the rounds top and bottom and tighten the. As needed. When I fi d a stripped o e I do as Bruce suggested and replace them. Works well . Good luck
What length and diameter screws do you use when you re-attach the stripped screw?
1 1/2 inch 5/32 not sure if that a # 10 got them at ace.
I've also had issues with the trim strip but years back. I believe due to a slightly warped cargo door but the glue and toothpick fix did last a while.
But.... I'm thinking of a different fix this time. I believe it's metal of some sort behind the trim / piano hinge because I don't recall seeing and wood remnants on the screws when I removed them.
So... how about pumping some JB weld or epoxy in there to hold things. But just coating the screws with wax Incase I ever want remove them.
Yesterday I tried a variety of screw just to see about length and diameter. (#8- 1") (#8- 1 1/2") (#10-1") (#10 1 1/2"), nothing found something that it could grab.
I have not removed a belt yet to see what I can see, that will be the next step, but I'm not sure if even with the belt removed I will be able to see whats behind the belt.
Does Foretravel still take tech calls without paying?
I hate to bother a independent business like Extreme for info. Can anybody think of someplace that would be familiar with this design?
I think the screws may go into an alum or metal rail. You've stripped the holes. Go bigger, or fix the holes. JB Weld would possibly be a good fix to the hole.
Another option, is somehow get behind it and glue a nut or nut plate.
Another option, thread the hole for a bigger machine thread screw.
One issue with a bigger screw would figment to the belt trim ??
You'd think someone would actually know what's behind that wall at the base. Frustrating that they don't read the forum.
If I remember correctly that is steel that the screws go into. No wood visible there. When I took off the rail at least that is what I saw was rusty steel.
That's what I was thinking ,, so I thought JB weld might be just the ticket. But.... My body shop son-in-law said to wax the screws or you may never get them back out.
This makes sense.
If the steel is rusty I wonder how you go about replacing it, I don't look forward to this project, never simple.
I don't think that steel is replaceable, it is part of the frame structure that the walls sit on.
I was trying to see what the steel behind the belt consisted of unfortunately its hidden from view by the fiberglass that runs above it.
I probed a screw hole hoping that it was a thin wall frame member like the the bird cage the sub frame is made of but could not come up with a definitive answer.
I found the hole (going through a screw hole that the belt is attached to) was about 5" deep before I hit something solid. Not exactly a scientific exploration but the solid ending of the probe felt substantial like a heavy frame member. Not thin wall framing.
If I had found thin wall metal I thought I would through drill both ends and then attach the belt with long #10 screws.
Now I don't think that will happen.
I was hoping I would not have to cut a hole in the fiberglass under the floor but that will be the only way I will be able to see whats up there. I could find no spot that could give me a visual look as to what lies above the fiberglass bottom of the floor.
Thanks RED TRACTOR, I think you called it. Trying to drill through the heavy steel frame member with 60x #8 holes is a no start.
I think the beltline trim screws thread into the edge of the plywood floor. I've used longer (like 3") screws with success.
Here's a diagram of how I think it is.
Thanks John.
I removed the belt today and checked how the belt is fastened. It looks like most of the belt screws are not attached to anything, what ever they were meant to attach to no longer exists the screws are just through the fiberglass the metal is rusted.
There is a second row of screws that the flanges for the doors screw into, they have the same fate as the belt screws, maybe slightly better, a few more screws are grabbing something but the fiberglass above the doors bends the fiberglass upward when a load is put on. I can now see why I have had horrible luck getting the doors to latch and un-latch.
I tried going way up in size on the screws (#12) hoping a bigger diameter screw might find something to grab, no luck.
The screws in the front and back of the coach are still holding well as is the entire passenger side.
I thought I might be able to use a wall anchor but changed my mind on that approach.
I ended avoiding the rusted metal all together. I went above the belt to where the side reflector sits. I removed the reflector and drilled a 1/2" hole through the fiberglass behind where the reflector is attached. I wanted to see what was there.
I found the metal box beam (thin wall) that I believe supports the floor. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the box beam and made a metal bar that is 1" wide and the length of the reflector. I then drilled a center hole in that metal bar and screwed the fiberglass to the box beam with a self threading 1/4" x 1" bolt. The fiberglass and the area that supports the bay doors now cinched up tight to the good metal. I ordered some longer 1/4" bolts as the 1" barely grabbed.
The reflector will cover the hole and the support strap.
I ordered new reflectors today and will add one or two more along the side where I will do the same thing along the bad area. I think it will hold at the risk of the coach looking like a Thai truck or bus.
I will try the much longer screws you suggest and hopefully grab some more solid material when I replace the belt and the screws that hold the bay doors.
Thanks for the schematic!