So, I decided to replace my OEM headlights. They were hazy, yellow and the visibility was terrible.
It's a little confusing on what lights do what. A quick tutorial.
The upper assembly has high beam and low beam.
The lower assembly has from outside in, turn signal (small bulb), turn signal/parking light, and daytime running light. The daytime running light comes on automatically when the coach is running, in drive and the parking brake is released.
The lower two lights near the ground, come on with the low beams.
I've only driven about 3-4 hours in the dark in 12 years/105K miles. So an FOT or Xtreme rework didn't make sense. After looking at my options, I decided to just R&R them with the same basic design.
I bought a new set of headlights from Amazon Amazon.com: oEdRo Headlight Assembly Replacement for 1999-2002 Chevy... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KLYGS3D?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1) and 4 new Sylvania Silverstar ULTRA high and low beam headlight bulbs and the driving light bulbs from O'Rielly's for about $120. I also replaced the small outside turn signal bulbs.
Because the daytime running lights are on all the time, check all the sockets, they may show signs of overheating. Now would be a good time to replace them if they do. I replaced mine about 10 years ago. Got them from Amazon. Chevy wanted over $40 for a single socket.
Rich are the headlights on an 02 the same as the ones on an 04? I think they are, but I am not sure what year they moved them to the higher location.
Tom
REMOVAL
First google some YouTube videos on how to R&R 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 Pickup headlights. Looks easy, right? Not so fast. You can't get directly to the two pins holding in the top headlight assembly because they are up against the floor of the coach dash.
The bulbs in the lower assembly do not have wire connectors. You must remove the sockets to free up the assembly. Disconnect the wire connectors or remove the bulbs from the upper light assembly. You will also need to disconnect the wiring for the two lower, square driving lights to allow easier access to get the aluminum mounting frame out and back into the front area.
You can remove the bottom light assembly like the video shows. You will have to reach in from the underside to release the clip. That gives you an extra access point for the rest of the project.
Then I used a clamp to secure the square tube aluminum frame while I took out the three 7/16" bolts holding it in place. See picture.
The square tube aluminum frame holds the plastic mounting bracket that then holds the upper and lower light assemblies. The frame is held in place by 3 bolts with clamp nuts at the upper and lower outboard and upper inboard corners. They are accessible, some with difficulty. The upper inboard bolts can be reached by opening the generator compartment door. The passenger side upper inboard is behind a bunch of A/C and heater hoses.
The upper outboard bolts are a VERY LONG reach. I used my air drive ratchet wrench to remove them and to tighten them when I reinstalled the frame. The removal and install will be very difficult with just a regular ratchet wrench. A 90 degree powered one is REALLY handy.
I'm 6'3" tall and the only way I could reach to start the bolts back in was to lower the coach all the way down and then REALLY stretch. If you have short arms, you'll need a tall friend with long arms.
I also removed one bolt from the upper aluminum frame to coach bracket to make it a little easier to get the frame out of the cavity. This may not be a problem for you.
Once the aluminum frame is loose, you can lower it down 4-5 inches and then turn and pull the pins holding the upper assembly.
The driver's side is a little tough to get out because there are a bunch of wire bundles at the top of the opening behind the frame. You may be able to use the frame to push the wire bundles back. Then slide it down. I had to release the bundle clamp to get them out of the way. It is a 1/2" rolok.
Then remove the headlight assemblies through the bottom of the compartment followed by the aluminum frame.
Here's a picture of the bolts, lockpins and the Rolok that holds the wire bundle.
Here's a picture of the old light assemblies, the aluminum frame and the plastic bracket attached to the frame that holds the assemblies.
Picture of the bolthole for the extra bolt I removed for easier access.
Tom,
I don't know, maybe you can tell by looking at the pictures.
Rich
Here's a picture of all the tools I used to do the project.
INSTALLATION PREP
The headlights on the Silverado are adjusted by reaching in from the top. You can't do that in our installation. FOT modified the headlights to allow access from below. So you will have to remove the adjusters from the new headlights, turn them over and reinstall them so they can be reached from below. If you compare the new headlights with the old ones, you will see what I mean.
I removed the plastic frame from the back of the new headlight and then it was easy to remove the adjusting mechanism. Then you have to modify the plastic frame so the adjustment screw will fit and be accessible. Then, rotate the adjusting mechanism 180 degrees and reinstall it.
On mine, FOT used a small saw and modified the frame on the back of the headlight. I used a Dremel tool with a small sanding cylinder and it worked really well. The sanding cylinder cut through the plastic very easily.
Reinstall the plastic frame on the back of the lens assembly.
I also wire brushed and painted the lock pins that hold the upper assembly in place.
Then I put the aluminum frame in my vise and did a test installation of both the upper and lower headlight assemblies.
The upper went together with no problems.
The clips on the lower assemblies were tight and did not fit well. I used a flat file and slightly enlarged the hole on the plastic headlight bracket that the outer clip latched into and it then was easy to install and remove. This picture shows the slot that I filed for the lower assembly clip.
I also gave the pins and clips a shot of silicone spray.
I set the headlight adjusters to about the same position as the ones I took out in hopes they would be close when it came time to do the final aiming/adjustment.
I installed the new bulbs.
I left the plastic on the lens until the assemblies were installed on the coach.
INSTALLATION
If you removed a frame to bracket bolt, reinstall it.
Work the aluminum frame back into the cavity and brace it in there. It is easier if you have a second set of hands to hold it for you for the part of the project. Or, you can use a clamp like I did during removal.
Then, work the upper headlight assembly into the cavity from the bottom and attach it to the bracket on the frame using the two long pins.
Move the frame up into position, adjust the clamp to hold it in place and reinstall the three bolts holding it in place. I found that I had to remove a little of the spray foam insulation on the floor of the dash compartment in order to move the frame into place.
Reconnect the wire bundle clamp if you loosened it for removal access.
Connect the headlight wire connectors to the upper high and low beams.
HEADLIGHT AIMING
First, checkout some YouTube videos.
These headlights are not adjustable horizontally. Only vertically.
I used my garage door to aim the headlights. You can reach in through the lower light assembly hole and do your adjustments.
I used two nut drivers. I don't know why, but the two lights require different socket sizes for the nut drivers. One is 7/32" and the other is 1/4".
When you are done aiming the lights, reinstall the three light bulbs in the lower light assembly and then snap it into place.
Check all the light functions to make sure they are working.
I'm very pleased with the install and the look of the new lights. I have no idea when I may actually drive at night and try them out. I'll try to give you a final report, when I do.
I do have another problem with the lights and I'll start a separate thread for that.
Hope this helps,
Rich
Rich I spent countless hours trying to get conservatively all I could out of my headlights when I changed them. I do recommend walking out in front of them with them a couple hundred yards and looking back at the coach. You will be above what oncoming traffic is, but this will give you an idea if they are presenting excessive glare. I continue to keep adjusting my low beams, a little higher at a time, and to date have never had someone flash their lights at me to dim them down. I think you made an excellent choice on the bulbs. My high beams are literally the same bulb as the low with an awning covering them in low beam. Hi beam is not DOT compliant in mine. Low beam is DOT compliant.
Scott,
I'll check them out when I'm traveling this Fall.
Rich
Thanks for the great write up Rich, this is an upgrade I have not been looking forward to. Jim.