I would like to try the install myself. The battery isolator is located under the bed on a 02 U320, correct? I looked at the isolator and I have no clue which wires are which so are the directions pretty easy to understand or should I have a shop install it??Don't want to mess the electrical system up. Thanks John
Very easy to install. 3 wires right there at the isolator, takes 5 minutes
See the topic
http://foreforums.com/index.php?topic=9459.msg43123#msg43123 (http://foreforums.com/index.php?topic=9459.msg43123#msg43123)
for a discussion on it.
Steve installed ours in minutes. He used this excellent photo that George Hatfield had uploaded with the important things labeled

I think it took longer to drill the second mounting hole than it did to do all the other installation work.
Michelle
Thanks to all especially for the great picture. I'll order it and give it a shot!!
Earlier models, the isolator is mounted aft of the driver's side rear axle. My former 93 280 and my current 95 U320 are that way. This is VERY simple to do, with basic tools. The hardest part is tracing the cable over to the engine battery to verify which cable is which... :))
That's just what I was going to ask since my isolator is different. Plus I just want to try attaching a photo to a post. Here it is:
That looks a little like mine. I'll go over to my storage tomorrow and take a peek.
I agree with Barry... a VERY Easy install that just takes a few minutes. The instructions recommend that you first disconnect the negative terminals from your starting battery and house battery. After consulting with Trik-L-Start, the Tech stated it was just an extra cautionary step to prevent minute sparking when the last cable was attached to the Trik-L-Start. There was only a very short momentary spark and it was installed.
Note to John,
If I can install a Trik-L-Start, you cna install one. I used the great photo from George Hatfield as my guide.
But I did not drill holes into the metal base of the battery isolator. I determined the correct length of wood screw and used them to attach the controller (or whatever it is called) to the side of the engine compartment just next to the isolator.
I decided that the isolator install is not for me. If you aren't on shorepower you have no choice but to disconnect the batteries. Lately I've had the rig in the shop over several days and I wouldn't want it drawing power during those times when the batteries are connected but there is no shorepower. I listened to Brett and moved it to the next compartment over. I had to splice in longer wires to make it reach but it looks good.
Dwayne,
Sounds like you made a good call.
Remember the Trik-L-Start will only operate down to a certain voltage.
It will not 'draw down' both battery sets to nothing.
I have solar panels and they keep the house batteries up. The
Trik-L-Start allows me to bleed up to 5 amps of that power off to the
chassis batteries. Up to 4-5 months at a time last year when I was sick
and still no issues in storage with either bank.
Dave Head
Dwayne wrote:
> A reply has been posted to a topic you are watching by Dwayne.
>
> The text of the reply is shown below:
> I decided that the isolator install is not for me. If you aren't on
> shorepower you have no choice but to disconnect the batteries. Lately
> I've had the rig in the shop over several days and I wouldn't want it
> drawing power during those times when the batteries are connected but
> there is no shorepower. I listened to Brett and moved it to the next
> compartment over. I had to splice in longer wires to make it reach but
> it looks good.
Trik L Start and all diode devices just allow current to flow one way and
when the start battery is about 6/10ths of a volt lower than the house
battery.
As long as the differential is present current flows. When house battery
starts to drop in voltage, the current flow stops because the start battery
voltage (usually) does not also drop.
Barry & Cindy
1997 Foretravel U270 36'
Foretraveler@gmail.com