I attempted to install the behind the fridge fan again but ran into several problems. I couldn't place the on/off temperature switch on the tube where they indicated without removing a cover and that would have required clearing the area in front of it. I also was apprehensive about cutting wires on the fridge itself. Since I don't like the idea of creating a 12 volt draw that will come on and go off whenever it wants, I removed the temp switch and the other switch that looks just like it that was mounted in the fan housing itself and just ran a wire from the cabinet lighting to a switch that I installed and then from the switch down the chimney to the fan so now I can turn it on and off manually. I'm thinking those diodes or switches that came with the fan might also act as a fuse so I'm thinking of installing a fuse somewhere. I guess it should go between the power source and the switch??? I'm thinking of using an inline automotive type blade fuse.
I found when my temp switch went bad , I bypassed it & also put an on/off switch on it.
I see now why it needs a temp switch.
When I manually put the fan on , it did not always help because I think the refrigerator works best at a certain temperature behind the cooling unit.
Having the fan on when not needed made it worse.
It is hard to tell when to manually turn the fan on.
So if you can get the temp sensor on I think you will find it works better.
I never would have figured that. I guess this just falls in line with every project I attempt. I am experimenting with it and will compare how it does being on during the heat of the day vs. not having it. It runs just a little above the max temp for a fridge during the heat of the day and overnight gets just below that threshold into acceptable range.
Get your propane pressure checked
Had simular a few years back and propanr pressure was low.