The power line monitor in our coach is operating erratically by giving us voltage readings that are far above normal -- between 139 and 149. Fortunately, our Progressive Industries voltage monitor gives us normal voltage readings as does a separate plug in monitor I keep on hand.
I have two choices:
1) Ignore it (but it bugs me to see these high numbers)
2) Find a replacement without having to pay the inflated factory price.
I am leaning toward #2. Does any one have any suggestions where I can find a replacement?
George.... my FT voltage panel also seems to read high, but not as high as yours. Plus some of the LEDs are out. If you do find a replacement, let me know since I'd like replace it. When we bought our coach at FOT we were told that replacements were not available.
George H
Will do.
George & Sandy & Trixie
Lost in America in a
40' Foretravel aka "Moose"
Follow our adventures at
http://sangeo-travels.blogspot.com/ (http://sangeo-travels.blogspot.com/)
When my coach was about a year old, the green polarity testing bulbs had grown so dim it was really hard to see them. Foretravel replaced my whole monitor on warranty. but admonished that "they all do that". To prevent a recurrence, I replaced the bulbs' series resistors with ones 10 times the original resistance. This made the bulbs somewhat dimmer, but still very useable. Now about 8 years later, they still work fine.
Also, the voltage readings were close, but not very accurate. I found trimpots on each half of the monitor that adjusted the voltage readings. I set them as closely as I could to a reading from a good DVM.
If your readings have changed a lot, there probably is a reason, however there is a good chance you can readjust the meters back to the correct readings using these trimpots. It's worth a try. If the readings still keep changing, then you could look for a new unit, or possibly just adjusting them would make the unit workable until you can find a replacement.
If you decide to do this adjusting, just plug in one side of the meter at a time, and be very carefull, as there is 120 volts all around where you are working.
Dick
Dick,
Thanks for a great answer. I will look at this tomorrow. Are the trim pots located on the back of the monitor?
Also, I am curious as to why you installed resitors that made lights dimmer? Did you mean to say brighter?
George,
As I recall, the pots are on the circuit board that is exposed when you remove the electrical box from the rear of the monitor.
And no, I did mean increase the resistors to dim the bulbs. The original bulbs wore out in less than two years due to being overdriven (my theory anyway). When I received a brand new unit I decreased the current significantly to allow a longer bulb life. It seems to have worked, as they are still about as bright 8 years later as they were when new.
Dick
Dick... can the LEDs be replaced? If not, do you know of a source of these boards? All but one of my LEDs are out.
George,
These are not LED's, they are a neon bulb that apparently has a phosphor in it to glow green. I am sure they would be replaceable if you can find them. I suspect that you could, if nothing else, get bulbs from a power line tester and put them in.
I have no idea where you would ever find a replacement board.
Good luck,
Dick
Bumbling around on Google and I came up with this marine device.
Not sure it would work for a motorhome, but thought I'd post it here
http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-AC-Power-Watt-Meter-V-P-Monitor-Boat-RV-Ship-/350243621075 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-AC-Power-Watt-Meter-V-P-Monitor-Boat-RV-Ship-/350243621075)
George -
Earlier I noticed only line 2 having lights and line 1 struggling to glow, now I've only one tiny flicker on my monitor tonight, if I hold a light to it can see flickering - after reading all this post I shutter to think this is my first item to go and needing replacing -
The readout is 124 on both lines
I'll be watching this post to see if ya find any replacement & I'll check to see if my ever so expensive "warranty" for coach will cover this -
Ah welcome to the life of owning a dearly loved coach :D
Virginia and Jim
George,
I have done a lot of searching on the Internet looking for a suitable replacement bulb for the line monitors. It appears that what we want for an exact replacement is an ne-2g bulb. I found these offered by several Chinese distributors with a minimum order of 10,000 pieces - a little too many for me! It may be that an appliance repair outfit would have some, as they are used as pilot lights for a number of small appliances.
One source said that the Radio Shack Green Neon Lamp Cartridge pn 272-708 contains a similar bulb, but I cannot verify that. If you are satisfied with an orange color lamp, the ne-2 or ne-2h bulbs are much more available. These are what are in all the inexpensive line testors I have found.
The basic problem with all these bulbs is that they typically list an average life of 25,000 hours. This sounds like a lot, but if you keep your coach plugged in all the time, it is less than 3 years! Because of this I suggest making the series resistor as large as possible while giving an acceptable brightness of the bulb. The larger the resistor, the longer the life. I repaced mine with 10 times the resistance and they still look good after 8 years.
If mine ever go out again, I think I will replace them with green LED's, which would require adding as a minimum a series diode and changing the series resistor.
Dick
Dick;
If you get this repair figured out ,I will be your first customer,then there will be hundreds after. Good luck on your new bidness.
Gary 99 295
Hi all,
I finally found a source for the ne-2g bulbs for our power line monitors! It is All Spectrum Electronics in Van Nuys, CA (www.allspectrum.com (http://www.allspectrum.com)). Under the topic of NEON LAMPS they list about 10 different size and lead length combinations of the green bulbs. I would have to open my monitor and measure the existing bulbs to verify the correct one. Prices run around $0.50 each, varying a little by exact bulb.
Dick
OK, I went out and pulled my monitor out and opened it up.
The steps to open it are:
1 Remove front panel from electrical box - 4 screws
2 Unplug 2 cables from front panel to power supplies
3 Remove 4 hex nuts and remove board from front panel
The 4 NE-2G green bulbs are 6 x 12 mm. There are also 2 plain NE-2 (amber) 6 x 12 mm bulbs for the open ground indication. I didn't touch the circuit of these 2 bulbs as they are almost never (hopefully!) lit, and should last forever.
I replaced the original series resistors with 470k for long life and not too dim a bulb for the 4 green bulbs. Before you change these resistors, you should follow the traces and verify that your board layout is the same as mine (2000 U-270).
The attached photo shows these as well as the adjusting pots to calibrate your volt meters. Just be careful of the high voltage, both as for shorting anything while it is hot, and coming into personal contact with any high voltages!
Dick
That is fantastic information, I just ordered my 4 bulbs! Thank you for sharing how to make the updates and where to get the bulbs (and the great picture)
I bet All Spectrum is going to wonder why they have this sudden rush on small green neon bulbs.
Question..... Do these bulbs just plug in or do they need to be soldered in place.
Thanks in advance.
George
George
They are soldered into the PC board. It is fairly delicate work. If you do not have experience working on delicate electronics, you should find someone who has.
Dick
Hello All;
I would like to give a huge round of applause to Mr. Dick Mason for all of the correct information needed for the repair of the power monitor board. I have never worked on a circuit board,but , with this information, I now have nice green lights in all of the correct places.
Approx. 90 minutes working time. Cost less than $10.
Again THANK YOU.
Gary
Hi Gary,
I'm glad I was able to help and that it all worked well for you!
Dick
Dick,
Count me as another satisfied customer ... Just finished updating my line monitor in our 2003 U320. The circuit board looks to be identical to the one you showed, it was also dated 1998. I posted some pictures of my update in the photo section. The only changes on my part were the use of 220K resistors and since I did not want to go back to radio shack I used .5 watt ones instead of the small .25 watt ones.
Steve,
I am glad it all worked out for you. As you said, the hardest part is removing the old components! Thanks for the update and the step by step pictures.
Dick
Great information Steve and Dick; didn't realize my Power Line monitor was supposed to have brightly visible green indicator lights as they have always been very dim and flickering ever since I've owned the coach.
BTW, I am ready to order the bulbs from Spectrum and the NE-2G 6x12mm lists a 30mm lead and a 60mm lead; which do I need to order?
Fiddler
01 U320
I also ordered some. 30mm is almost 1.2", more than enough for this application. You will end up clipping some off. As you can see from Steve's pictures, they do not stand off the board very far.
Bob nailed it ... 30mm is more than enough, really 6mm is enough as they do not stand very far off the circuit board ... so either will work as you will be clipping most of the lead away after its soldered in place.
Hi guys,
FYI, if you are going to order replacement bulbs the power monitor board be sure to look at the pictures again. Four neon bulbs are lit up, but there are 6 on the board.
Jim
I believe it was noted the other two are amber and should never be lit up as they are reverse polarity - so they don't wear out...
Dave,
Oh oh, I missed that.
Thanks,.
Jim
Correct! We've only seen them light once, and that was coincident with a ground issue. For some reason I thought they were red, but they could be amber. It's been a while.
Michelle
Jim:
I think those are the amber bulbs (open ground) that Dick mentioned and are HOPEFULLY rarely lit up. They are most likely just fine in most of our coaches.
Oops... and I didn't see page two of the posts so I missed the the fact that that Dave had already replied to the amber light issues.
I used my inexpensive solder pump/sucker as well, it really is the only way to go when you need to clean the old solder out of the through hole and really helps remove a lot of the old solder to help free the part
A third hand is also a big help, I used a portable bench vise (with non-conductive foam on the jaws) to gently hold the circuit board while I lifted the components (with spring loaded tweezers) from the component side while applying heat to the terminals/pads (after I removed most of the old solder with the pump).
Thanks Dick for all the info. I received my bulbs today and installed them. Everything worked as you said. Thanks for the valuable information.
Regards, Mark
I can't believe I missed this topic when it started back in June! In our coach, the polarity check lights flicker continuously with a dim, green light and the display for voltage check has an odd lighting effect that doesn't even resemble numbers anymore... Both MOT & FOT said the units aren't manufactured anymore and that there's really nothing to be done unless I would like to spring for a new inverter...
Good info! Thanks!
Bill,
If your 7 digit leds are also going (assuming its not the power supply) those are very easy to replace as they are in sockets. I just reopened my case to get the PN of the LEDs and they are KingBright SA03-11GWA. Found them on digikey.com for $1.24ea (you will need 6 of them)
Steve
Thanks, Steve. Will get 'em ordered!
Steve,
That's good information, Thanks
Dick
For the past 10 days or so our power line monitor has been giving us fairly accurate numbers. Go figure.
Steve and Dick,
Thanks for your great information and pictures. I also thought the dim flickering green lights were normal, as it has been on every other Foretravel I looked to purchase. I guess if my budget was higher I might have looked at some newer models and found out otherwise.
Brad
2000 U320 4000
This thread is over a year old, but I thought I would report that I finally got my power line monitor repaired using the procedure described here. Works great. I found an individual in Tucson with lots of soldering experience and she effected the repair for me. The repaired monitor is shown below.
I offered to come up and do George's when he was in FL but he passed.
This actually would work for a motorhome. Not only that it's priced reasonably. It would indicate voltage, current and power drawn by the circuits in the coach. It would not indicate polarity or poor grounding, however. And it needs an appropriate shunt which they say is "not provided"; and no immediate mention of where to get one. But it's pretty cool, otherwise.
Craig
Dick,
I hate to flog a dead horse but I have a question about resistor sizing. You chose ten times the original 47K ohm which you said still gave acceptable bulb brightness. I have various packages of resistors on hand but the closest I have are 1meg ohm. Do you think these would work or should I go out and purchase another package of resistors closer to your 470K ohm resistors?
Howdy Richard,
I know this wasn't directed towards me, but I just completed project this a week or so ago and I, like Steve, used 220k. It works great!!! Seems to me, the brightness of the Neon tubes, is just right..Time will tell.. I have some extra 220k 1/4watt resistors if you are interested..Just PM with an address and I'll drop in the mail.
Good Luck, Dave Abel
Richard,
The value is not critical. I just chose the largest value which I felt gave me adequate brightness, using the theory that the larger the value I used, the longer the life of the bulbs. It has worked well for me. 220k should still give you a much longer life than the original 47k.
To see if you think 1 M resistors give you enough brightness, temporarily install one (without soldering) and very carefully plug it in to see. That's how I did it. As I recall, when the resistance got too high, the bulb started to flicker, but I don't remember what that resistance was.
Dick Mason
I will be replacing the neon bulbs on my board this weekend if I find the time. I bought them from All Spectrum Electronics. My purchase was made online, but I noticed in-store pick-up was offered, and the store is in Van Nuys CA (next to the airport, they are also a pilots supply store). Easy to get to, andI spoke with the owner, Moses, and found out the shiping would have been very resonable. They also offer soldering irons and supplies if you are in need.
So here we are 14 years after the original topic was addressed and Spectrum is still in business and has white and amber bulbs. I didn't see any green ones but a plug in power line tester I have uses all amber LED's so I went with them. I just received them and will install shortly and let you all know the results.
I ordered a large sample of resisters that they didn't have in stock but they sent me upgraded ones with a nice hand written note on a 3X5 index card explaining the change.
Wow how often to you get something like that!
Tyson
Awesome to know you can still get those bulbs. I had updated our 03 and the repair looked like new years later when we sold the coach.
Our 2000 already had the repair/update done. Whoever did that repair left the bulbs a bit too proud of the PWB surface causing the pointy tip of the bulbs to work their way through the Lexan cover. So be sure to seat the bulbs down as far as the existing ones so they don't, eventually, blister the plastic cover.
No one has tried LEDs yet? The newest ones I would think have the drivers integrated in a small footprint by now.
Maybe we don't need to reinvent the wheel on this one.
If they have I've not seen the post on how to do it.
I think the challenge on changing over to LED's is that Neon bulbs are AC, so you would need to add a series diode, maybe even a FBR, and then a series resistor to set the current to the forward current of the LED you choose. In the end that may be more work then swamping out the NE-2 bulb and updating the existing resistor. I hope one of the EE's on the board will let us know the correct steps.
Another option is, that there is so much room in the existing box,, replacing the internals with a modern solution that uses the old "face" could be a fun project.
First I should say that until I found this thread and discovered that there were supposed to be some lights, I was perfectly happy. But once I noticed what should be there, I just had to do something.
I am trying some LEDs.
I found some on Amazon. Amazon.com: Gebildet 10pcs 6mm LED Metal Indicator Light 110V-220VAC... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PFMY6YQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1) They were under $10 for a package of 10 so I figured why not. When I got them they were too tall so I thought about taking the clear cover out of the faceplate and just have the bezel through the faceplate. if I left them as is, they would stand out about 1/2" so I decided to cut one down to see if I could end up the flush. In the process, I discovered that the LED could be removed from the housing and still was Green and that the color of the bezel was not all that made the light green.
you can see in the pictures, the process. Cut with a hack saw all the way around and you don't have to be too careful because the blue plastic protects the wires. the LED comes out of the blue plastic after the wire insulation is removed.
The diode is there and I tested the LED on the board with the non functioning neon bulbs and they worked.
Next step is the solder them, but I am afraid of cooking the diode because I don't have great skills soldering small stuff. I may try to find someone with skills.
I will let you know how it works out, but I have faith that these parts will work if the de-soldering and re-soldering is done skillfully.
It appears that the correct height will be just about at the diode to wire solder joint.
Thanks, Mike.
Keep us posted (including the photo gallery) as you proceed).
Success! The green LEDs work. The de-soldering was harder than the soldering. I still need to verify the clearance and possibly replace the black tubes the old neon bulbs were in.