Front slide wouldn't retract

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Front slide wouldn't retract

August 25, 2010, 01:54:48 pm

I couldn't get the pressure on the aux. compressor above 60 psi. It ran for about 20 minutes. I started the motor, built up the air, and turned the 'Air Tank' switch on; hoping it would help boost the pressure. It didn't. I got the rear slide in with about 50 psi. When I tried the front slide the blinking yellow light would not stop blinking and the slide would not move. I finally got about 60 psi and tried it again and it worked ok.
I can't hear any leaks. I did notice a lot of moisture in the filter bowl that is on the compressor. The silica, or what ever that is, in the filter/bowl on the bulkhead is a color that indicates it needs to be replaced.
Any ideas? We were sure scared we would never get that slide in.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #1 – August 25, 2010, 03:53:53 pm

There are a couple of things that have caused the light not to go steady amber for us.

1) Coach not level. Try turning the slide operation key off, then relevel the coach, then try retracting again. This has happened several times to us.

2) We think there is a vacuum detect on the bladder. You turn the key to enable slide movement and the slide bladder should deflate (that's what it's doing while the light blinks, I believe). In the case where we have the air line to our leaking slide bladder shut off, we actually do have to open that ball valve in order for the light to go solid. Makes sense - the slide mechanism shouldn't pull the slide in (or send it out) if the bladder is inflated or you'll risk damage.

Hope that helps; my guess is #1 is a likely scenario.

Michelle

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #2 – August 25, 2010, 04:42:59 pm

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If you mean the empty clear bowl, on the bottom of the bowl there is a turn knob that will drain the moisture.

There is also a part you can purchase from Parker, #PS506P. This automatic float drain for Parker Air Compressor filters rises inside the filter with an increase in the liquid level. When the float rises, it opens a seat area allowing the trapped liquids to drain through the bottom. This compressor filter float drain also features a manual override that can be pushed in the bottom of the drain to unseat the float if particulates create a block. I put one in a few years back and have not had any problems with it. The selected media item is not currently available.

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That is Desiccant and can be bought at any Grainger store.

One thing that I did that seemed to help with having to replace or recharge the desiccant was I added in a one way check valve between filter base and the solenoid valve (the one that opens when the tank is pressurized). The theory being when the HWH compressor is not running, that solenoid is open, so the desiccant is exposed to the atmosphere through the filter tube. With the check valve in place it allows the filter side to de-pressurize as normal but closes of the desiccant to the air exposure.

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It ran for about 20 minutes ...... I finally got about 60 psi and tried it again and it worked ok. I can't hear any leaks.

20 minutes on the HWH pump says you have a leak somewhere, that's way to long. For me one area that has been a real PITA is that solenoid valve at the base of the first filter (before the desiccant filter), it gets clogged up so it does seal properly so the pressure can't build up enough to trip the pressure sensor to turn off the pump.

When the pump is running you can place your thumb over the end of the solenoid valve and know if its leaking or not (hard to hear the leak in that pump bay). I've been told some folks have been able to clean them up with some DI water, I've had to replace it 2-3 times at a cost of $125-145 each time. Have not found a replacement other than what HWH sells.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #3 – August 25, 2010, 05:16:31 pm

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One thing that I did that seemed to help with having to replace or recharge the desiccant was I added in a one way check valve between filter base and the solenoid valve (the one that opens when the tank is pressurized). The theory being when the HWH compressor is not running, that solenoid is open, so the desiccant is exposed to the atmosphere through the filter tube. With the check valve in place it allows the filter side to de-pressurize as normal but closes of the desiccant to the air exposure.

The HWH manual shows a check valve there already.
Is this the one you are referring to, between the filters?

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #4 – August 25, 2010, 07:36:49 pm

Thanks for the help. I too think there must be a leak.
Barry, three minutes in the microwave did not turn the silica blue. It is now on it's way to three hours at 375. I should have new silica here tomorrow from Grainger.
I just got off the phone with Parker tech support. They told me the two Parker units are essentially the same; the 06F11BC is a 5 micron filter and the 06F1C00021 is a special build of their standard 06F11AC, a 40 micron filter. The special build is proprietary to the Nott Company and has a special fitting at the bottom instead of the bleed valve.
I did drain the water from the clear bowl and today I took it apart, emptied it again and wiped it out.
When I get this back together I will put my finger on that solenoid to check for a leak. It looks pretty cruddy.
If there is a check valve ahead of that drier unit it must be built into the head on the Parker unit. I think the 06F11BC Parker unit also has a check valve, but I can't see it.
Yes I have a pressure gauge plumbed in like yours Barry.
Why wouldn't pressure in th ebrake tanks 'help' the slide tank?
Is the brass fitting with the split ring a pop-off relief type valve?
Let's see if I understand the first part of this; air leaves the compressor, enters Parker 40 micron filter with solenoid at bottom (is this pressure actuated to shut off compressor at 90 or so psi?), then to air drier with silica, then Parker 5 micron filter, then to my gauge and out to lines 57 & 76? This makes my head hurt...

So anywhere along the way there could be a leak I guess.
Which lines in my photo are 57 & 76, if any?
Yesterday I heard and felt a small air leak from between the two things in the last photo. I think from the one wing the brass base. I would push on the silver bracket and hear the air. Does this make any sense?
Barry, where did you get the drawing of the two filters?

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #5 – August 25, 2010, 08:01:44 pm

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Yesterday I heard and felt a small air leak from between the two things in the last photo. I think from the one wing the brass base.

Try turning the shutoff valve OFF above the leaking solenoid and the pressure should come up.
Then
Empty the air & Unscrew the solenoid and clean the "O" Ring.
That should stop the leaking.

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Which lines in my photo are 57 & 76, if any?

See Photo

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Is the brass fitting with the split ring a pop-off relief type valve?

Yes

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Why wouldn't pressure in the brake tanks 'help' the slide tank?

Air seal only gets air from the aux. compressor.

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Barry, where did you get the drawing of the two filters?

I sent you the HWH manual with all the diagrams

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #6 – August 25, 2010, 10:29:02 pm

I will be spending the next day or two or three looking for air leaks.

One more question, well for now anyway;

What exactly is the function of the solenoid attached to the bottom of the first Parker filter? It looks like the wires run into the pressure regulator for the aux. compressor.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #7 – August 25, 2010, 10:36:11 pm

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What exactly in the function of the solenoid attached to the bottom of the first Parker filter? It looks like the wires run into the pressure regulator for the aux. compressor.

If you mean the one that Steve has replaced several times.
After the compressor goes off that solenoid opens to bleed the line.
When the compressor starts that solenoid closes.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #8 – August 25, 2010, 11:00:23 pm

So it removes air pressure from the line and any moisture form that plastic bowl? So there must be a check valve someplace just before my pressure gauge? Maybe even two...

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #9 – August 25, 2010, 11:19:27 pm

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So there must be a check valve someplace just before my pressure gauge?

Follow 76 up to a LARGE brass Check Valve.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #10 – August 26, 2010, 10:05:17 am

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The HWH manual shows a check valve there already. Is this the one you are referring to, between the filters?

Here is a picture of my filter and valve setup.
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I added the check valve between the base of the first filter and the solenoid valve. That solenoid valve opens when the compressor turns off so that it clears the capture out of the filter bowl (the capture exits through the solenoid valve which eventually will cause that valve not to seal 100% and leak only when then compressor is running).

When I added the check valve there I looked for another check valve plus did the more primitive lung test, for me applying air to the base of the first filter bowl resulted in air coming right into the desiccant bowl. Not sure there would be a check valve between those two filters (first and desiccant) anyway, if there was I think it would leave the desiccant bowl and second filter bowl (for secondary water capture and removal of desiccant dust) on the pressurized side of the system. If it was that way, and you forgot, when you go to change the desiccant, you would be in for a surprise.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #11 – August 26, 2010, 10:32:32 am

I think this is a check valve also.
This is the one I was referring to when I responded to Dick.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #12 – August 26, 2010, 12:18:40 pm

Great photo Steve. And Barry I do have that check valve you "boxed". It is the line you labeled for me as 57.

Where is the S/O Air Seal Tank physically located? I found the desiccant bowl cracked in a couple places so I am getting a new one from Grainger in Portland. Should be able to pick it up today.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #13 – August 28, 2010, 09:09:45 pm

I'm still working on this air leak, but I'm getting close. I have this piece of hose that is cut off and goes nowhere. It is connected to a fitting that goes into the base that the auxiliary compressor is mounted on. Do you know why this is here, what it is for or what it might have been for in the past?

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #14 – August 28, 2010, 10:46:34 pm

Hmmmm... When you get time would you mind posting a photo showing that connection? Thanks.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #15 – August 29, 2010, 12:34:06 am

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Do you know why this is here, what it is for or what it might have been for in the past?

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When you get time would you mind posting a photo showing that connection?

On our system that hose is connected to the other side of the pump head (opposite side of the white hose), where it looks like you have a pressure gauge attached.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #16 – August 29, 2010, 11:40:20 am

Thanks Barry,
I think that is the air intake port for the compressor and ours has that round black air filter screwed into that side.
Do you think there is an air filter located inside that wide channel under the compressor also? I know the previous owner replaced this compressor unit; maybe it came with the filter unit already installed....

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #17 – August 29, 2010, 11:50:44 am

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I think that is the air intake port for the compressor and ours has that round black air filter screwed into that side.

I don't have one of these.

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Do you think there is an air filter located inside that wide channel under the compressor also?

That looks like just a mounting bracket. I don't think that is a filter

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #18 – August 29, 2010, 01:05:11 pm

My auxiliary compressor air leak problem is solved! At least for now and thanks to my son-in-law who I may label HWKE&CFA (He Who Knows Everything & Can Fix Anything).
The leaks were from the slide manifold air pressure regulators. These regulators have a vent near the end, see photo, and air was escaping there on both of them; worse on the front (#1) slide unit.
HWKE&CFA disassembled, repaired, and reassembled them. The compressor reached 120 psi and turned off. Six hours later it was still 120 psi. 20 hours later it is at 108 psi; that's good enough for me.
I also replaced the Wilkerson X06-02-000 Desiccant Drier ($101.10)because it has several cracks in the plastic bowl. I don't think these were leaking air yet.
I also bought 2 pounds of replacement silica gel ($38.12); before I saw the cracks. I think 2 pounds of that stuff is at least 10 times what is needed to replace the contents of that drier. So I have extra if anyone needs some.
I will post an album showing the regulator assembly and the problem we found and fixed.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #19 – August 29, 2010, 02:52:31 pm

Hey Dick... where was that last picture taken.... could you back out a bit to show where these regulators are located in the electronics bay? By the way, this whole discussion has been very informative, but I still do not have a good plan for what to do when the slide won't work. We also have a 2003.

George

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #20 – August 29, 2010, 03:39:38 pm

George, here's a wider angle showing the location of the slide air pressure regulators.
I am still trying to understand what to do if the slide doesn't work too.

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #21 – September 01, 2010, 09:50:26 am

Dick,

I would take a couple of replacement amounts of the silica gel. The term "gel"is fooling me - aren't these actually beads of different colors? Tell me what you would like to receive for your generosity.

Thank you,

Jim Frerichs
2002 U320
#4 Skyline Drive
Kearney, NE 68845
308-440-5154

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #22 – September 01, 2010, 10:43:17 am

Hi Dick,

I can't seem to see my post responding to your offer for silica gel. I would take some, perhaps enough for two refills.

Thank you,

Jim Frerichs
308-440-5154

Re: Front slide wouldn't retract

Reply #23 – September 07, 2010, 10:46:33 pm

Dick,

I don't know what is happening to our private emails, but they sure don't seem to be going through. I am still interested in some of your silica gel/beads..

Jim Frerichs
#4 Skyline Drive
Kearney, NE 68845

308-440-5154

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