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Topic: Boost Solenoid (Read 1192 times) previous topic - next topic

Boost Solenoid

Since my boost solenoid is on the fritz too, I decided to look up the Cole Hersee 200 amp - part number is 24143.
Best price I found was Ryder Fleet products at 38.00 each. Bought 2 with 8.00 shipping.

The selected media item is not currently available. Dave Head & Megan Westbrook
Titusville, FL - The Great Outdoors
'98 270 buying this month
Toad is a 2018 F150 XLT

Re: Boost solenoid - Cole Hersee 24143

Reply #1 –
Quote from: Dave Head –
Since my boost solenoid is on the fritz too, I decided to look up the Cole Hersee 200 amp - part number is 24143.
Best price I found was Ryder Fleet products at 38.00 each. Bought 2 with 8.00 shipping.

I just used this company 3 days ago to order dash a/c parts.......good prices.
David in VA
1994 Unihome Grand Villa U280

Boost solenoid replacement and Trik-L-Start

Reply #2 –
I installed the new Cole-Hersee 200A solenoid this morning for the boost circuit. I was getting little or no voltage change although I verified the solenoid was picking up. Since my new Trik-L-Start had arrived I installed it too (old one had given up the ghost).  This time instead of crossing the isolator with the Trik-L-Start, I crossed at the boost solenoid since that was where the big cables are from each bank.
You have to add a ground wire for the new solenoid. I added a spare ground wire in the event I have to replace the start solenoid. Wasn't in the mood to do it today. I have a spare. As long as I have a spare it will always work...
I also thoroughly sanded, cleaned and degreased all the cables and installed a drop of Stabilant22 for each connection.
Whether it was the cable corrosion or the solenoid, the problem is solved. Flipping the boost switch gives me a solid volt increase. The Trick-L-Start is happily in the 'maintaining' mode. I'm waiting for the sun to come up a little higher so I can verify the solar panels are putting out a good charge.
The selected media item is not currently available. Dave Head & Megan Westbrook
Titusville, FL - The Great Outdoors
'98 270 buying this month
Toad is a 2018 F150 XLT

Re: Boost solenoid replacement and Trik-L-Start

Reply #3 –
Dave,

I know you are familiar with this, but for others reading this thread, there are TWO things to verify when replacing  solenoids:

1.  Is it sufficiently robust for the job? Said another way, is the amp rating higher than the current it will ever be asked to carry.

2.  If it is to be used for more than intermittent duty, make sure it is a constant duty (i.e. was designed to be in the on position for long periods of time).

There are plenty of high amp NON constant duty solenoids out there-- mostly for use as starting solenoids.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Boost solenoid replacement and Trik-L-Start

Reply #4 –
Question...As Dave's coach is (I believe) like mine where the solenoids and battery isolator are located behind the duallies, is it a good idea to spray some battery terminal protector on them to prevent rusting?  And, is it wise to put a light amount of dielectric grease on these connections?
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH

Re: Boost solenoid replacement and Trik-L-Start

Reply #5 –
Peter,

Though our coaches are not the same, I have the same issue on ours. I relocated all the electrical components on mine from behind the left rear wheel to inside the "electric area" at the foot of the bed.  All wires were long enough-- just labeled, drilled a 1.5" hole through the floor, ran all wires inside a 1.5" OD hose, then silicone sealed the hose/wires.  Then reconnected everything in the electric area. 

I really don't like electrical components in a wet, dirty environment.

If you move any heat-producing items like a diode-based isolator into that area, you may want to add a muffin fan and vent to keep that compartment cool.

Brett Wolfe
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Boost solenoid replacement and Trik-L-Start

Reply #6 –
You guys are unbelievable!  We are in the process of selling our house in Las Cruces (MLS 813614) and we thought we were going to move to Tucson, but a location close to one of you guys sounds better all the time!
The selected media item is not currently available.
George Hatfield

  Never ever use World Line Motors of Nacogdoches for service!

Re: Boost solenoid replacement and Trik-L-Start

Reply #7 –
Quote
On 9/12/2010 10:44 AM, Peter & Beth wrote: 
Question...As Dave's coach is (I believe) like mine where the solenoids and battery isolator are located behind the duallies, is it a good idea to spray some battery terminal protector on them to prevent rusting? And, is it wise to put a light amount of dielectric grease on these connections?
 
Peter & Beth Martin
Cincinnati, OH 1997 U270 WTBI 34' (Forrest)
Coach Build No. 5156 2004 Honda Element EX (Henry) petermartin@fuse.net
Good point - I will likely spray them with some terminal protector. I was considering using my brush on liquid electrical tape - but sometimes that can be a moisture trap.
The selected media item is not currently available. Dave Head & Megan Westbrook
Titusville, FL - The Great Outdoors
'98 270 buying this month
Toad is a 2018 F150 XLT

Re: Boost solenoid replacement and Trik-L-Start

Reply #8 –
Quote
On 9/12/2010 11:17 AM, George Hatfield wrote: 
You guys are unbelievable! We are in the process of selling our house in Las Cruces (MLS 813614) and we thought we were going to move to Tucson, but a location close to one of you guys sounds better all the time!
 
George Hatfield 2003 U295 3610 (#6228)
2009 Honda CRV
www.geoandpat.com
 
I grew up in Tucson. Got too big for me - joined the Navy in '75 and never looked back. Hated paying horrendous license plate costs. I concluded my military career in FL ('99) - no state taxes and cheap plates! We may eventually retire to TN - they include dirt cheap property taxes!
The selected media item is not currently available. Dave Head & Megan Westbrook
Titusville, FL - The Great Outdoors
'98 270 buying this month
Toad is a 2018 F150 XLT

Re: Boost solenoid replacement and Trik-L-Start

Reply #9 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
Peter,

Though our coaches are not the same, I have the same issue on ours. I relocated all the electrical components on mine from behind the left rear wheel to inside the "electric area" at the foot of the bed.  All wires were long enough-- just labeled, drilled a 1.5" hole through the floor, ran all wires inside a 1.5" OD hose, then silicone sealed the hose/wires.  Then reconnected everything in the electric area. 

I really don't like electrical components in a wet, dirty environment.

If you move any heat-producing items like a diode-based isolator into that area, you may want to add a muffin fan and vent to keep that compartment cool.

Brett Wolfe
Brett,
If I recall correctly, you eliminated the use of the battery isolator by using a manual switch to direct the alternator output?  I realize it is a tall order, but could you post something (pictures, wiring diagram, whatever you can) of your conversion.  Other than manually selecting to charge starting batteries or both starting batteries/coach batteries from the alternator, are there other "things" to attend to with this conversion?  e.g.  location/wiring the solenoids, etc?
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH
 

Re: Boost solenoid replacement and Trik-L-Start

Reply #10 –
We liberally spray everything on the panel with CorrosionX to reduce corrosion & moisture.  Lowe's has electrical sprays that can also work.