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Topic: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch (Read 1398 times) previous topic - next topic

Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

I use AGM batteries for the chassis and for the house. I prefer to keep all batteries at the float voltage provided by the charging system in the coach. I turn on the boost switch when on shore power. My understanding is that the boost solenoid is rated for continuous use.

The Trik-L-Start will charge the start battery to about 0.5V less than the float voltage on the house batteries. That's way better than allowing the starting battery to run down from internal leakage or persistent loads. It seems to me that it is better practice when on shore power to either leave the boost switch on, or have a smart charger such as Battery Tender on the chassis battery in order to keep it at a full float voltage.

The same logic would apply when boondocking if the generator is running.

We are able to leave our coach on reliable shore power most of the time. Other storage or usage modes might call for different choices.

How about agreement or alternative views from the voices of expertise and experience?
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #1
I have always used my boost switch to keep the starting batteries charged.
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #2
Actually this is a very good thread to read up on. I have just changed my 2 dud MK gel batteries (out of 3) 8D size and put in 3-8D Lifeline AGMs for the house. cost $1800 and last Nov at FOT the start batteries were changed (1 dead) to 2 Exide AGM.
I have been reading from a lot of Forum members that they believe in the Trik-l-charge unit to keep start battery up to scratch, and with my 93 GV I had I always used the Boost switch and up to now on this one I have been using the boost switch too but -NOW- after spending this money I find that you should keep them topped up(charged) at all times to extend life.
SO, my question is, also, what do most of Forum members do on this battery type/charge issue and why? I would like to hear Barries idea as to what he feels, as it looks to me he has a vast knowledge of the electrical side (and maybe some others do to).
john
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #3
I use a battery minder plugged into the engine block heater outlet to keep the starting batteries fully charged.  So far, so good.  Before that, I did use the boost switch.  It worked well, but I was concerned about someone tripping over the power cord and leaving all the batteries to discharge at once.
Tom Lang K6PG (originally  KC6UEC)
and Diane Lang
2003 38 U295 build 6209
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit Ecodiesel
still have tow-ready 2006 Acura MDX 
Temple City, California
Motorcade 16681 California Chapter President
SKP 16663 member of SKP Park of the Sierra, Coarsegold California
FMCA F071251
Retired electrical and electronic engineer

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #4
We have solar panels and the charge controller has a separate charge line for the start batteries, so we use sunlight when it's available.  If charging with the generator or fast charging from shore power, I use the boost switch, but I don't like to leave it on all the time.  Sure, nothing is very likely to happen, but then we turn off the water when we leave for the day too.  Murphy takes a special interest in RVs...
Dave and Nancy
1999/2013 U270 36' Xtreme
Motorcade # 16774
2013 Subaru Outback
KD0NIM

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #5
I have trickle start but I have a friend who said he used a heavy gauge wire and just put two clips on ot and jumped the terminals on the isolator.  The boost switch does similar bu I only rated at 100 amps. This then he leaves on till he is going to start it and removes prior to starting.
2025 Wanderbox Outpost 32 on F600 Expedition Motorhome
2015 Born Free Royal Splendor on Ford 550 nonslide version  for sale
Former Coaches  covering. 360,000 miles
1999 34 U270
2000 36 U320
2001 42' double slide U320
2018 Jeep Rubicon

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #6

SO, my question is, also, what do most of Forum members do on this battery type/charge issue and why?

Early on, we used the boost switch continuously when the coach wasn't being used.  We kept the coach at home and were able to check on it easily and often.

When we moved and were forced to store the coach elsewhere we also used the boost continuously.  Unfortunately there were issues at the storage facility with loads from other coaches, tripping breakers, and no one checking power very often (a few weeks might go by then we'd go out to the coach).  After multiple instances, eventually causing all 6 batteries (3 coach, 3 house) to be weakened enough to need replacement, we stopped using boost continuously.  We would use it for a couple of days every few weeks during storage, but that got old, having to go back and forth to an storage facility.

Now we use a Trik-L-Start.  It's less likely to lead to a problem in our situation, where we store some distance away and the coach often goes for a couple of weeks or more at a time without being checked on.

Michelle
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #7
We have solar panels and the charge controller has a separate charge line for the start batteries, so we use sunlight when it's available.  If charging with the generator or fast charging from shore power, I use the boost switch, but I don't like to leave it on all the time.  Sure, nothing is very likely to happen, but then we turn off the water when we leave for the day too.  Murphy takes a special interest in RVs...
Thanks so far for these ideas/solutions. I too have Solar Panels now so am thinking of the Trik-l-charge,BUT one problem will be that I usually cover the coach to keep the sun/tree sap etc from affecting the paint and of course they do not work too well with a cover on do they!!
I can also (which I usually do) have the unit plugged into 120 as we park alongside the house so little chance of losing power or plug being pulled out by mistake. So I guess my remedy is the Trik-l-charge.
One other point is the 2500 inverter that was installed in our coach in 2000 I noticed does not have a setting for AGM only Gel and Flooded. I wrote to the makers and they said that as the charge rate on flooded setting was a touch less than what is required for these batteries to set it at that-flooded- and let my solar panels and Morninstar charge controller do the final float as it is set to do every 21 days. Of course that only works when the cover is off and they can see sun !!!Life is so tough.
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #8
...
I can also (which I usually do) have the unit plugged into 120 as we park alongside the house so little chance of losing power or plug being pulled out by mistake. So I guess my remedy is the Trik-l-charge....

John,

Another good alternative that has been suggested is to put a small smart charger, such as Battery Tender, on the chassis battery. Our coach came with a small charger plugged into the outlet for the block heater. It is easy to leave the outlet live, and plug in the block heater when required. I have chosen not to use that charger because it is not "smart." I use the boost switch instead.

Our coach is parked about 50' from our front door. It is plugged to a dedicated 50 amp circuit. The coach is our spare bedroom, quiet place away from the house, and toy for me to tinker with. The boost switch is a good, easy solution to keeping batteries topped off where we have reliable power and immediate access to the coach. Trik-L-Start, a separate charger, or solar panels are more suitable if the coach is less accessible. If my coach were remote, I would probably disconnect batteries during storage.
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #9
John,

Where my coach is stored I have no access to electricity and use a portable solar panel and Trik-L-Start to keep things charged.  There is no reason why you can not do the same, just hook up the portable unit before you cover your coach. 
John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #10
John and JD. Both good ideas thanks.
One thing I should have mentioned/asked on my first post was that as I have not had an inverter before (in the 93 GV I had) I obviously have not been using this correctly. So, my question is, even thougfh the coach is sitting outside not used and the shore power connected, is it still best to leave the inverter on in the charge setting, as I have been going out every few days (before having the solar) and putting it on charge for a few hours then turning it off. This obviously only applies when the bus is covered as otherwise the sun will do it for me.
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #11
I leave my system set to charge all the time. I see no risk in doing that. A "modern" charger will not harm good batteries even if left on all the time. It will hold them at float voltage, which helps keep them in good condition. If shore power is available, the converter (charger) will charge or "float" the batteries. If shore power fails, the converter will do nothing. If solar panels are charging as well, there is still no problem.

We leave the inverter on most of the time. However, if we are operating on batteries only, and don't need 120VAC, I will turn it off for conservation. If you are not in the coach, it may be prudent to leave it off for conservation in case shore power fails.

The Heart 2500 is a converter/inverter. The converter converts 120VAC (shore power) to 12VDC. It charges batteries and supplies 12VDC (nominal) for 12VDC appliances and lights. The inverter will convert 12VDC to 120VAC to run television, microwave, computer charger, phone charger, etc., in case you are not on shore power and the generator is not running.
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #12
I have always left the charger on continuously when plugged in but I have always had a smart charger. A smart charger not only keeps the batteries at float charge but also conditions the batteries (helps stop sulfation) every 15 days. I believe the Hart 2500 is a smart charger/inverter/converter. If so I would leave the charger on even with the solar charging. IMHO
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #13
Trik-L-Start is an inexpensive, automatic, fool-proof, simple way to keep start battery charged when the house battery is under charge, from battery charger or solar or any other charging system.

There are many other ways to accomplish start battery charging, but most come with disadvantages, like discharging house battery and they usually need some level of monitoring.
There are discussions about mixing GEL house & AGM start, like our coach has. Our house and start batteries have been living together for 9-years and many Foretravels have the same set-up.

Leaving battery charger turned on when shore/generator are not available is normal, since battery charger is automatically turned off when not powered.

It is personal choice if and how to keep start battery charged. Trik-L-Charge is a simple diode device that allows limited current (amps) to flow in one direction from house to start whenever house battery voltage is higher than start battery voltage.

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #14
so I ordered one last night. Mind you it may take a while to get here as our Canadian customs more than likely will take it apart to see if it is a bomb or?  8)
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #15
Quote
Trik-L-Charge is a simple diode device
I agree with Barry, but what bugs me is the .8 or so volts lost going through the diode.  It's probably more of an issue between my ears than in reality but it seems like it keeps the chassis battery voltage too low.  I actually have an Echo Charger made by Xantrex but I think it's the same as a Trik-L-Charge.  Is the proper name Trik-L-Start or is this something different?

I've thought about replacing my 2 position boost switch with a 3 position:
Top position=ON (same as now, boost solenoid is powered by 12 volts from battery)
Middle postion = Off
Bottom postion= ON (but boost solenoid is powered by a 12 volt power supply plugged into non-inverter powered 120VAC outlet)
So the bottom position would be the default postion for storage and the boost solenoid automatically disconnects when you loose 120VAC.

Here's an interesting factoid on the boost switch (at least found on a '91):  the ON postion is powered by both the chassis and house batteries in case either battery is so low it won't even power the solenoid.  Each line is fed through a diode so the two batteries banks are not combined at the switch!!  I thought that was clever of Foretravel.  The diodes are spliced right into the wire a few inches from the switch and covered in heat shrink tubing.
John Fitzgerald
1991 U300 (SAI) Side Aisle Island Bed 40'
Detroit 6V92 with Allison Retarder
Meridian (Boise), Idaho

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #16
John,

I like the idea of the boost solenoid being activated by shore power. You could just add a 12VDC brick on a "" outlet. The brick could energize the boost switch. That eliminates the issue of remembering to set a switch, charges all batteries from the converter if on shore power, and also disconnects the chassis system from the house system if shore power fails.
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #17
If somebody gives me a round tuit, I will see if I can hook my boost switch up to charge when shore power is active or my solar is active. Should be easy to do with Arduino.

Regards,
Jon Twork
JON TWORK KB8RSA
Full Time RVer (10+ Years) & Dedicated Boondocker
Retired, Unemployed, Homeless Transients
1996 Foretravel U270-36 w/24' Timberwolf Trailer
I firmly believe that tomorrow holds the possibility for new technologies, astounding discoveries, and a reprieve from my remaining obligations.
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Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #18
If somebody gives me a round tuit, I will see if I can hook my boost switch up to charge when shore power is active or my solar is active. Should be easy to do with Arduino.

Regards,
Jon Twork
Its my last one.  :P
The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

 

Re: Trik-L-Start vs Boost Switch

Reply #19
I'm bettin Bill Chaplin can spare one.
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback