Re: Air conditioning
Reply #6 –
A few years ago Dometic and Coleman(now AirXcel) came out with basement units and I think they are still making them. Everything was in one box, so all that had to be connected was the wiring and air ducts. Winnebago and some others were installing them for awhile, not sure if they still are. The MH has to be designed to accept the unit, and have the ductwork for air distribution. Some storage space is lost, but the installation is quieter than roof air. They may not have cooled as well as roof units, but at the same time almost all the RV manufacturers switched to dark paint schemes making cooling more difficult, so that may be part of the problem.
I have been toying with this idea for a 96 U270. Buy a couple of new high quality 15K btu high efficiency window units (or possibly one 15k and one 12k), have the refrigerant removed, saw the units in half (probably voids the warranty) so that the condenser, compressor, and fan motor are still one unit. Basically we are just removing the evaporator, its fan and the controls. Install the control units inside the coach in a suitable location/s. Build an air handler to contain both evaporators and a fan/s to fit in the space above the washer/dryer. An extra fan motor/s and fan/s will have to be purchased for the air handler. The air handler should have a pan to catch the condensate and drain down to the condensers for evaporation. Install a drop ceiling similar to the 97 and later models for air distribution. The 2 condenser units are to be mounted next to the engine on the left side. The standard muffler will have to be removed and replaced with the smaller aero muffler and the dash air condenser relocated. Install a grill in the fiberglass panel same as on the right side for the engine radiator. My engine air cleaner is located athwartship at the rear, so I don't have to contend with that. The condenser units are to be mounted in a metal frame with isolation mounts. The condenser side faces the engine and compressor is outboard. Air flow is toward the engine and is directed upward so it flows out the rear door. Install refrigerate lines and wiring and recharge with refrigerant. One or both units can be used as needed to cool the entire coach or part of the coach. Both units operate on 120v 20 amp circuits and draw less than 15 amps each even with the addition of another fan motor. (My older 13.5k btu units pull about 15 amps each.) Remove the roof units and install a skylight, or close and insulate the opening. I suspect that on the highway in hot weather, heat off the road might reduce efficiency to less than that of roof units, but when parked the units are shaded improving efficiency. Noise in the bedroom should not be any worse than the roof air, maybe even less with good isolation mounts.
If someone would give this a try and let me know how it works out, it would be much appreciated.