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Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Earlier there was a discussion pertaining to checking the power at a campground power box before actually connecting the power cable to power the coach.  This was either a description of how to test plug socket on the connector to each of the others for 35A service as well as the description of how to test a 50A service or was a link to a separate article on how to test each socket on the power panel.

I have searched to locate these procedures, but I have not found the procedures or a link to them.  Does anyone else know which thread this was?

Thank you very much.
Morris and Janice
1997 U270 36'

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #1 –
Quote from: ncaabbfan –
Earlier there was a discussion pertaining to checking the power at a campground power box before actually connecting the power cable to power the coach.  This was either a description of how to test plug socket on the connector to each of the others for 35A service as well as the description of how to test a 50A service or was a link to a separate article on how to test each socket on the power panel.

I have searched to locate these procedures, but I have not found the procedures or a link to them.  Does anyone else know which thread this was?

Thank you very much.

Here is a tester that Barry L. made.
50 Amp Outlet Tester
The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #2 –
Quote from: Barry Beam –
Quote from: ncaabbfan –
Earlier there was a discussion pertaining to checking the power at a campground power box before actually connecting the power cable to power the coach.  This was either a description of how to test plug socket on the connector to each of the others for 35A service as well as the description of how to test a 50A service or was a link to a separate article on how to test each socket on the power panel.

I have searched to locate these procedures, but I have not found the procedures or a link to them.  Does anyone else know which thread this was?

Thank you very much. 

Here is a tester that Barry L. made.
50 Amp Outlet Tester  quote]

What I was remembering were the procedures with pics of how to test each leg using a volt meter.  I think it was a link to an article on another site, but I do not recall for sure.

Thank you.
Morris and Janice
1997 U270 36'

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #3 –
One would think some company/person would come up with a very simple 50 amp plug in tester in the $15-20 range.
A hand held 4 light indicator to show normal on each leg and i for ground and 1 for neutral.
Any takers??

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #4 –
Quote from: ncaabbfan –
Quote from: Barry Beam –
Quote from: ncaabbfan –
Earlier there was a discussion pertaining to checking the power at a campground power box before actually connecting the power cable to power the coach.  This was either a description of how to test plug socket on the connector to each of the others for 35A service as well as the description of how to test a 50A service or was a link to a separate article on how to test each socket on the power panel.

I have searched to locate these procedures, but I have not found the procedures or a link to them.  Does anyone else know which thread this was?

Thank you very much. 

Here is a tester that Barry L. made.
50 Amp Outlet Tester 

What I was remembering were the procedures with pics of how to test each leg using a volt meter.  I think it was a link to an article on another site, but I do not recall for sure.

Thank you.

CHECKS:
• Complete the checks in the sequence listed.
• The meter you are using to conduct these checks MUST be set to measure AC volts (DC will NOT work!).
• The voltage range must be set to 300 VAC or higher.
• It makes no difference if the black or red probes are reversed when checking AC voltages.
• Carefully push the metal tip of the probe into the outlet slot. It may be necessary to angle the tip to make contact with the outlet's inner metal pieces.
• Be careful testing t.he outlet as lethal voltages are present on the test leads and probes.


1. X to W should = 110 to 125 Volts to PASS
  No Voltage indicates open Neutral or Open Hot DO NOT use this outlet

2. Y to W should = 110 to 125 Volts to PASS
  No Voltage Indicates open Neutral or Open Hot DO NOT USE THIS OUTLET IF THIS CHECK fAlLS

3. X to Y should = 220 to 250 Volts
  A PASS for this check Indicates that the outlet has the proper phase relationship for both of the 120 volt power feeds.
  If the voltage IS 110 to 125 between X and Y and both checks 1 & 2 are ·PASS·, thiS outlet is NOT wired for 50-50 Amp Service.
  OUTLET MAY BE SAFE TO USE IF ALL OTHER CHECKS ARE "PASS" BUT THE AVAILABLE AMPERAGE WILL BE REDUCED BY 50%

4. G to W should = ZERO volts to PASS
  If voltage appears here outlet IS unsafe, most likely a hot and neutral are reversed.
  DO NOT US.E THIS OUTLET IF THIS CHECK FAILS

5. X to G should = 110 to 125 Volts to PASS
  If check$ 1, 2 and 4 are "PASS" and no voltage appears here, GROUND is Open DO NOT USE THIS OUTLET IF THIS CHECK FAILS

6. Y to G should = 110 to 125 Volts to PASS
  If all of the above tests are "PASS" and no voltage appears here. GROUND is Open DO NOT use THIS OUTLET IF THIS CHECK FAILS

NOTES:
The 110 to 125 volt range may actually vary between 105 and 130 volts depending upon the time of day (Utility & Park loads vary), The Ideal range is between 110 and 125 volts.

Voltages between 100 and 109 may be used but the risk of damage to equipment with electric motors (air conditioners) is increased.
Other equipment and appliances may not operate properly or as efficiently.

Voltages over 125 volts and up to 130 volts increase the risk of damage to appliances that use resistance elements such as toasters, coffee pots, electric heaters, hair dryers and a RV refrigerator running on electric power.

Voltages between 130 and 135 drastically increase the risk of damage to ALL RV equipment. DO NOT use power from any source if voltage exceeds 135 as damage will definitely occur!
The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #5 –
The procedure below using a voltmeter is ONLY for a 50 amp park outlet - for a 30 amp park outlet try the following:
I advise testing 30 amp park outlets with a 30 to 20 amp adapter and a quick check illuminated circuit tester rather than a meter.
The tester shown here was $5 at Wal-Mart and the adapter about $6 at a RV store.
THIS SETUP IS ONLY FOR TESTING 30 AMP OUTLETS - IT WILL NOT WORK WITH A 50 AMP OUTLET
The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #6 –
I like my EMSPT50C ...the portable version from Progressive Industries instead of the EMSHW50C that is to be hardwired into the coach.  I always use it to give me all the details (actual voltage on each line, etc) before setting up.  I used it on several poles at one campground before finding a satisfactory power source.  You'd be amazed at what passes for power at some campgrounds.  I never plug in without it.  Too much to risk with over-voltage and under-voltages that the little neon light plugs can't catch.
The selected media item is not currently available.Brad & Christine Slaughter
Was:  1990 U280 36'
Was:  2002 U270 36' (With a bathroom door) Build #5981
Is:  2021 Leisure Travel Van Wonder 24RL
2015 Jeep JKU, 2003 S10 QC 4x4 or 2017 C-Max
Lake Havasu City, AZ (or Gillette, WY)

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #7 –
I posted this back in December, 2009.  The tester works fine, but I now rarely use it.  We have the Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C and I just use that to test the RV park system.  I plug it in first, check the readings (i.e., E=0) and if everything is OK, I go ahead and plug in the motor home.

Here is my post and a couple photos.  I ended up using a different volt meter because the original one was too fragile, at least in my hands.             

"I was able to build one of these testers without too much trouble.
 
50-amp Tester

It seems to work as described. I was able to find most of the parts at the local Home Depot, but had to get the voltmeter and voltage indicator on-line.  Here are the two sources for those parts.

GB Electrical ET6102 Twin Probe Voltage Tester

https://www.makariosrv.com/products/AC-Line-Voltage-Monitor.html

The trickiest part for me was going from the #6 wire in the pigtail to the small (#14 or #16) wire used to connect everything in the box.  I did this by cutting about 3/8" bare on each of the four wires.  Then on each I split the wire insulation on either side for another 1/2" or so and carefully peeled it back.  Then I cut about half the #6 wire strands out.  That left enough to connect to one end of a #10-12 crimp butt connector (yellow).  I then folded the insulation back over the thinned wire and attached the connector to the remaining wire.  The folded back insulation was then trimmed such that it fit up against the butt connector. I used heat-shrink tubing to cover the folded back insulator and most of the connector.  Then I connected a length of #14 or #16 wire to the connector and heat sealed that.  I found some good heat seal tubing at one of the auto parts stores in town.  This provided a solid joint.  I didn't want any problems while working with
220 volts!

The total cost was about $60."

Some photos of the tester are shown below. 

The selected media item is not currently available.
George Hatfield

  Never ever use World Line Motors of Nacogdoches for service!

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #8 –
Hi Morris,
  I have a 50 amp Power Pal. I plug it in, a voice tells me if power is good, or bad. It runs a test on both legs of the 50 amp line. It will tell if either line is open, if the breaker is off/thrown, reverse polarity, or a open ground/neutral. Workswell. Then there is the portable 50 amp box from progressive industries that seems to catch all. I think the web page for the Power Pal is www.got50amp.com

Raymond
Raymond & Babette Jordan
1997 U 320
1998 Ford Explorer XLT

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #9 –
Raymond,

You are one of the lucky ones to have this product.  Three years ago I  tried to order one on line.  They were out of stock.
I just checked the website and the product is still on back order.  One of the nicer ForeForums members built a 50 amp tester for me, but I am sworn to secrecy on that.  But here is a hint, he owns a Foretravel and lives west of the Mississippi.

George Stoltz.  Retired from full-time living in a great Foretravel and now are back to living in a traditional sticks and bricks in Florida.

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #10 –
I called the fellow in nev. and was told by Mr. Sears that it will be at least 2 months before he will have any 50 amp testers. Put my name in the hat for notification. He is making some minor changes, he told me he sold 800 the last round. jc
JC
1999 U320
 

Re: Testing Campground Power Box Before Connecting

Reply #11 –
Quote from: Barry Beam –
CHECKS:
• Complete the checks in the sequence listed.
• The meter you are using to conduct these checks MUST be set to measure AC volts (DC will NOT work!).
• The voltage range must be set to 300 VAC or higher.
• It makes no difference if the black or red probes are reversed when checking AC voltages.
• Carefully push the metal tip of the probe into the outlet slot. It may be necessary to angle the tip to make contact with the outlet's inner metal pieces.
• Be careful testing t.he outlet as lethal voltages are present on the test leads and probes.


1. X to W should = 110 to 125 Volts to PASS
  No Voltage indicates open Neutral or Open Hot DO NOT use this outlet

2. Y to W should = 110 to 125 Volts to PASS
  No Voltage Indicates open Neutral or Open Hot DO NOT USE THIS OUTLET IF THIS CHECK fAlLS

3. X to Y should = 220 to 250 Volts
  A PASS for this check Indicates that the outlet has the proper phase relationship for both of the 120 volt power feeds.
  If the voltage IS 110 to 125 between X and Y and both checks 1 & 2 are ·PASS·, thiS outlet is NOT wired for 50-50 Amp Service.
  OUTLET MAY BE SAFE TO USE IF ALL OTHER CHECKS ARE "PASS" BUT THE AVAILABLE AMPERAGE WILL BE REDUCED BY 50%

4. G to W should = ZERO volts to PASS
  If voltage appears here outlet IS unsafe, most likely a hot and neutral are reversed.
  DO NOT US.E THIS OUTLET IF THIS CHECK FAILS

5. X to G should = 110 to 125 Volts to PASS
  If check$ 1, 2 and 4 are "PASS" and no voltage appears here, GROUND is Open DO NOT USE THIS OUTLET IF THIS CHECK FAILS

6. Y to G should = 110 to 125 Volts to PASS
  If all of the above tests are "PASS" and no voltage appears here. GROUND is Open DO NOT use THIS OUTLET IF THIS CHECK FAILS

NOTES:
The 110 to 125 volt range may actually vary between 105 and 130 volts depending upon the time of day (Utility & Park loads vary), The Ideal range is between 110 and 125 volts.

Voltages between 100 and 109 may be used but the risk of damage to equipment with electric motors (air conditioners) is increased.
Other equipment and appliances may not operate properly or as efficiently.

Voltages over 125 volts and up to 130 volts increase the risk of damage to appliances that use resistance elements such as toasters, coffee pots, electric heaters, hair dryers and a RV refrigerator running on electric power.

Voltages between 130 and 135 drastically increase the risk of damage to ALL RV equipment. DO NOT use power from any source if voltage exceeds 135 as damage will definitely occur! 

This is the procedure I was remembering.

Thank you very much everyone. I greatly appreciate your help.

Morris
Morris and Janice
1997 U270 36'