Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 13, 2025 ...

Refrigerant leak

July 06, 2011, 11:56:13 am

I may have answered my own question......
My 95 was originally freon ( R12 ), the original owner had it converted ( probably at FOT ), I have had a continual leak that is getting worse at the LOW pressure inlet.  When I look closely I see that a R134 Fitting has Been added on top of the original R12 fitting.
Question,  Does any one know if the schrader valve in the original R12 fitting is left in place when the R134 valve is screwed on on top of it ?  If the schrader valve was left in place than I can remove the R134 fitting and replace it, this would save me from having to blow down the system and evacuate/recharge.
Thanks
Gary B

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Re: Refrigerant leak

Reply #1 – July 06, 2011, 12:00:28 pm

Gary, its been a while since I installed the 134 converter valve but I'm pretty sure the old schrader valve was left in the R12 connector. I would think you will know as soon as you start to unscrew the 134 adapter.

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Reply #2 – July 06, 2011, 12:02:28 pm

Kent, Thats when I DID NOT want to find out if the schrader valve was still in place. 

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Reply #3 – July 06, 2011, 12:53:20 pm

Gary, I know I'm always kidding around but I was serious in this case. I was thinking that you don't have to take 134 adapter all of the way off. If it doesn't stop spraying after a couple of turns, slap some pipe dope on the threads and screw it back down. That might even stop your leak.

Have you tried Corrosion-X or even silicone sprayed in the 134 valve end and then attaching a gauge to get the CX down inside the shrader on the 134 adapter. That might help the shutoff valve in the schrader seat better.

Also, I think I have seen caps for the 134 valve end that seal off the valve. If I recall they were at Oriellys and were made of aluminum with an O ring seal rather than the plastic caps. Try Googling this: Four Seasons 26781 Cap Valve Air Conditioning System Seal Kit. I think it might be what you need.

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Reply #4 – July 06, 2011, 07:33:48 pm

Kent, The leak is coming out of the edges around the visible schrader valve.  You are right, when I start to remove the R134 adapter fitting I will probably find out if the schrader valve in the original R12 fitting is going to seal. I had not heard of a sealing type valve cap, I'll look that up, that would really be a cheap fix.  The cap on this one is typical plastic and it screws on but seals nothing.
Gary B

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Reply #5 – July 06, 2011, 09:34:26 pm

Kent has it right on the valve staying in place when you make the conversion. I had a problem checking tire pressure with a "made in China" tire gauge. It unseated the valve and I had to use a metal cap to seal the valve so I could drive it (driver's side, front tire). I tried unscrewing and then tightening the valve and used another gauge about a dozen times before it suddenly sealed. I think the schrader on the may be the same on the air unit. A larger metal cap to fit the R134 might work or once the pressure is OK, or you could remove the conversion adapter and just put a standard metal cap on. T Another possibility would be to try and quickly replace the schrader valve. As long as air/moisture does not get into the system, you should not have to evacuate the system, just recharge. I always use goggles and gloves in servicing my car air cond. Probably better info on fixing the problem online than I can offer as others must have run into the same problem. 

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Reply #6 – July 06, 2011, 09:44:59 pm

Gary they make a tool called evacuation and core removal tool if you have enough room to use it you can change out the core without loosing your charge.

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Reply #7 – July 07, 2011, 10:28:52 am

I was trying to figure out if my system (93 225) was R-12 or 134a so I wrote a note to JamesT. He said that FT changed over to 134a in the 94 production year and that if the plastic fitting indicates ACME, it is 134. From what is being discussed here, however, it seems that some models after 94 were R-12.
jor

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Reply #8 – July 07, 2011, 10:48:23 am

John, my U225 was produced in Dec, 1992 and had R-12. The 134 A quick connects are substantially different than the R12 valves. If coach didn't come with 134A or hasn't been converted, I'm pretty sure the 134A hose to add refrigerant won't fit up to the old R12 valves. If it was converted, it will have an 134 A adapter attached to the old R12 valve.  IMHO

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Reply #9 – July 07, 2011, 11:54:32 am

Thanks, Kent. I see that mine is 134. Whether from the factory or conversion, who knows? I want to get it working right for a trip next month and for selling it which will follow that trip. Just occurred to me that I'm hijacking this thread; sorry about that.
jor

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Reply #10 – July 07, 2011, 01:32:51 pm

My 95 was built in august5 94 and was R12 that was converted later.
I checked with O'reilly auto parts and the counter GIRL was unable to determine if they have any AC parts or not. Will have to look further when I find a store with a PARTSMAN to see if they have a cap for the service port that will seal.
Gary B

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Reply #11 – July 09, 2011, 01:05:52 pm

Gary,

When I added the conversion to the low side of my system it came with Loctite to prevent it from coming off.  I did not use it but if your valve was installed by a shop then you might not be able to remove it.  Good luck on finding a cap.

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Reply #12 – July 09, 2011, 03:20:47 pm

I did find a plastic cap at NAPA that has a rubber seal in it.  I don't know yet if it will really seal tight enough to prevent refrigerant from seeping.  It just a PITA that I will have to live with til I get back and really get serious about fixing it. I have a 30# jug of R134a in the bay so we will not suffer in the heat anyway.
Gary B

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