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Topic: New isolator (Read 1588 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: New isolator

Reply #25 –
OK, what are you meaning when you say two battery banks? I thought that my two 8Ds paralleled together make up one bank. Am I wrong on this?
Larry
1996 U295 36'
Build # 4805
Actually we sold it but just like to lurk

Re: New isolator

Reply #26 –
What I meant is that I have three automotive engine batteries (one bank) and two 8D house batteries (second bank). Some of the isolators have the capability to handle a third bank of batteries.

Re: New isolator

Reply #27 –
That is my understanding, David. Roger wrote of having a third bank and I'm not sure what he referring to.
Larry
1996 U295 36'
Build # 4805
Actually we sold it but just like to lurk

Re: New isolator

Reply #28 –
Larry,
There is the start battery bank (3 batteries on mine), the original house battery bank, (3 batteries on mine) and a soon to be installed second bank of house batteries (2 or 4 6 volt L16 sized batteries) with a second inverter. So my Sterling isolater allows the alternator to charge all three banks and isolates all three banks.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: New isolator

Reply #29 –
Roger,
Maybe I missed it, but are you getting rid of your propane tank and going all electric? If not, where are you going to put the third battery bank? I assume then that the third bank would be solely for the fridge's dedicated inverter... Are you also going to have a switch to combine the two house banks?
Thanks, Don
Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 –
Larry,
There is the start battery bank (3 batteries on mine), the original house battery bank, (3 batteries on mine) and a soon to be installed second bank of house batteries (2 or 4 6 volt L16 sized batteries) with a second inverter. So my Sterling isolater allows the alternator to charge all three banks and isolates all three banks.
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Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: New isolator

Reply #30 –
X 2, thanks Don
Larry
1996 U295 36'
Build # 4805
Actually we sold it but just like to lurk

Re: New isolator

Reply #31 –
On my other thread about a dead alternator, Twig suggested that I connect the output of the alternator directly to the engine batteries and check the voltage. If > 13 volts the isolator is dead. If < 13 volts the alternator is dead. The broken terminal is the second one from the right, which connects only to the first terminal on the left. The other cable on that terminal goes to the boost solenoid. Any problem with Twig's test before I get a new isolator? Yes, I will make sure that those fat +12V cables are well isolated from any possibility of touching a ground.

Re: New isolator

Reply #32 –
Just spent close to an hour on the phone with Alan at Bay Marine. Long story short an Argofet 200-2 isolator is on the way here. That was Alan's suggestion for our coach. I asked about the Sterling, and he said it would work, but he thought the Argofet would be a better fit, and it was $25 cheaper. Can't argue with that.

Re: New isolator

Reply #33 –
Quote from: kb0zke –
Any problem with Twig's test before I get a new isolator?
You are going to take the alternator cable off the second isolator post from the left, and attach it to the isolator post on the far right.  This will send the alternator output directly to the engine start batteries, effectively removing the isolator (and the coach batteries) from the charging circuit.

I see no problem with this test (as long as the start battery post is long enough to accept the additional cable end).  If you need more room on the post, you could remove the big cable going to the Boost solenoid.  Leave the alternator "sense" wire and the wire going to the Aux Start solenoid attached to the post.

Good luck!  Hope your alternator checks out OK.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: New isolator

Reply #34 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
Leave the alternator "sense" wire and the wire going to the Aux Start solenoid attached to the post.
Good luck!  Hope your alternator checks out OK.

The sense wire MUST be connected with the + cable coming from the alternator and the + cable coming from the start battery in order to "sense" the charge state of the start battery.
1994 U280, Build 4490
Deming, NM.

Re: New isolator

Reply #35 –
Twig, I think that the sense wire is on post #4, which also has the engine batteries. Post #2 is the cable from the alternator. At least that's the way I read the schematic, and I think my first picture shows it there. My plan is to move the alternator cable from #2 to #4. I have the feeling that I'm going to have to do as Chuck suggested and remove the cable that goes to the boost solenoid in order to get the nut tight. We'll see what happens Saturday.

Re: New isolator

Reply #36 –
New isolator was just delivered. Installation will be this weekend. New unit is slightly smaller than the old one, so that will mean drilling some new mounting holes. Have to give some thought to moving everything on that old panel up to the space at the foot of the bed.
 

Re: New isolator

Reply #37 –
Good idea.

Been there, done that.

Brett
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
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Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020