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Diesel additive & order of operations to revive a long sitting coach ?

January 07, 2013, 08:43:02 pm

Our coach has been sitting about a year now since I did all of the disconnects to be able to weld on the frame. I know that it would've been optimum to have a full tank of diesel in it as it sat there, but since I ended up having to peel the bottom skin off to make some repairs, I had to have a lighter load anyway to keep the basement from sagging with most of the bolts removed from the basement framing, of course I also removed the 28D batteries. Soon, I'll be hooking everything up and bringing it back to life.(In time for Quartzsite?... I hope so!). There is about a third of a tank of diesel in there currently, it seems to me that I should put biocide in there before I even start it again for the first time. I plan to change all of the fuel filters on everything, as well as change the oil and coolant filters and basically all the fluids. I'm hoping for some guidance about the order of operations here, and any opinions you might have on the appropriate additive for the diesel. I picked up some Valvetect bioguard fuel microbiocide from West Marine while I was there the other day, but I really have no idea about whether this is good stuff or not. Internet search reveals a mixed bag of opinions out there, but I'm looking for opinions from Foreforum folks. Should I take that stuff back and get something else, and if so what should I get?
Thanks, Don

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Re: Diesel additive & order of operations to revive a long sitting coach ?

Reply #1 – January 07, 2013, 08:58:47 pm

Yes, that is a good brand-- have used it for decades.

I would hold off changing the filters for 100 miles or so-- long enough to know if you have an algae issue.

Another (better) option is to insert a tube/clear plastic hose and siphon off a pint or so from the fuel tank into a clear jar and just see what you have.

Brett

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Reply #2 – January 07, 2013, 09:03:10 pm

I would tilt the coach and look inside the tank with a mirror and flashlight.  Chances are good you'll see a clean bottom.  If you see water and gunk, I would try to clean or "polish" the fuel before ever attempting to start the engine so it doesn't contaminate the fuel lines.  Fuel polishing has been discussed elsewhere on the forum but it consists of pump it out, through a filter and back into the tank again.  Most additives are more for prevention but will kill any infestation.  The problem always becomes getting rid of the gunk.

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Reply #3 – January 07, 2013, 09:03:42 pm

Having plugged up a set of filters with Algae, this is what i think i would do. Put in Biocides, run on old filters for a while, why plug up new filters? Stay local, put on new filters before you leave on long trip.

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Reply #4 – January 07, 2013, 09:15:19 pm

To expand on John's advice, tilt the coach with side from which you want a sample lower than the other side.  Let it sit for at least an hour.  If water is present, it will migrate "down hill".  I use clear plastic hose attached to an opened coat hanger that allows me to get to the very bottom of the tank, but long enough that I can start a siphon into a glass container.

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Reply #5 – January 07, 2013, 10:51:12 pm

Most algae is picked up from an external source so if you didn't have it the last time you shut if off, you probably don't have any now. Does pay to take a look in the tank like above posts. If you have a plastic see through bowl on one of the filters, take a look now and after the engine has run a few minutes. Algae is usually black so easy to spot, water separates from diesel quickly. I usually carry biocide and add a bit when I fuel. No need to add it before starting. Would wait until you are ready for a trip before changing fuel filters. I have started diesels that have been sitting years and have yet to have a problem. My tractor sits for over 6 months each year and has always started fine for the last 20 plus years at the end of winter.

The one thing I would look at is the engine temp after you have started it. Thermostats do occasionally stick or fail after sitting so important to make sure it is opening when the temp comes up.

Listen for air pop-off at about 110 psi after starting, compressor should come on at about 80 psi.

Check engine compartment for rodent damage. They like wiring and hoses.

Change engine oil hot.

Check the tell-tail for air cleaner restriction. Green is OK, red mean change it. Should be located in the engine compartment or follow plastic tubing from the air cleaner.  Reset by pushing button on the top. Search net before buying new filter as they can be one fourth the price online. While you are at it, roll all belts 90 degrees by hand and check for cracks. Should require a moderate effort to turn them 90 degrees.

And last, check brake calipers for release from the rotor. Sticking caliper will heat one disk more than others after driving. Don't worry about surface rust on rotors after sitting. First drive will wipe them clean after one stop.

OK, one more thing. Check electric mirrors for full range of motion before driving. They may stick after sitting for a while.

Pierce

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Reply #6 – January 07, 2013, 11:33:43 pm

Good tips one and all! Thanks a lot guys... I have quite a bit of work to do before I am even going to attempt to start it for the first time. It had a leaking fuel transfer pump when I brought it home, and every time I started it I could see it leak. We got a new one from Cummins, so I'll be putting that on first and running the other checks you guys mentioned. I'm currently finishing repairing a few little rips and tears in large section (8'X10') of the bottom fiberglass skin. I figure it is easier to do that from above rather than from underneath the coach. The rest of it under the tanks and underneath the utility bay compartment I'm replacing with new FRP panel. It will be quite the operation using epoxy to glue the skin back in place... but I think I have a scheme for applying clamping pressure to it. Is still going to be a logistic challenge, but I've got some very slow setting epoxy from West systems. I have a lot of projects on the table for our coach which promise to be a whole lot more fun than working under the belly of the beast.... like Solar panels and controller, new HD back up camera and monitor, Mac Mini running windows for VMSPC, finishing the flooring from the galley forward. I know that many of these fun projects are not going to be finished before heading towards Quartzsite (if we make it)...  Anyhow, I'm getting closer to that happy day when she's ready to hit the road again!
Don

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Reply #7 – January 07, 2013, 11:38:58 pm

1/2 inch plywood and some truck tire tubes?

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Reply #8 – January 08, 2013, 12:39:33 am

Recommend cranking coach on existing lift pump before introducing new variable.  As far as fuel unless you are really unlucky do nothing but drive it like ya stole it.  Save those filters for when you really need em no preemptive changes necessary.

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Reply #9 – January 08, 2013, 11:21:18 am

We had a long thread with the new owner in CA who bought a coach that hadn't been started in 7 years.  The archives are gold.

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Reply #10 – January 08, 2013, 12:03:33 pm

Also a good idea is to cut off the fuel at the solenoid and spin up the engine on the starter until you get oil pressure.  This will circulate oil to the top end to prevent scuffing on camshaft surfaces etc.

Keith

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Reply #11 – January 08, 2013, 01:42:33 pm

Our '89 GV sat in storage for 9 years until previous owner resurrected it so I can't Know everything he had done to it but here are a few that I do know about:
Rebuilt propane generator
Six new Michelins
New front roof A/C
New refridgerator
New microwave
New custom paint job
New filters and belts
new wiper blades
New caulking everywhere
(1) new battery
New shocks
New brake pads

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Re: Diesel additive & order of operations to revive a long sitting coach ?

Reply #12 – January 09, 2013, 05:54:37 am

As others have said, make sure there are no MAJOR fluid leaks. Then fire it up check for any leaks both air and fluid. If all seams well take it on a shake down run and see what gives. In the world of mechanical things a year is not along time, a lot of vehicles and equipment sit for extended periods between uses. Of course at some point in the near future the coach will need a full service (all fluids and filters). JMHO but no need throwing $$ and time at things before knowing whats going on, the running gear under these coaches is heavy duty equipment.

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