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Flip up entry step corrosion

Found out over the weekend that it was not a leaking air cylinder on my entry step causing that huge air leak when you would close the door with the engine running -- a critter had chewed one of plastic lines in half!

So -- fixed that but then decided it was a good time to tackle the job of totally removing the step, drilling out the rivets attaching the fiberglass to the steel, and see how bad the corrosion was when separating the parts. (It was quite ugly from the outside so I expected a lot of corrosion inside)

It was amazing! -- I probably poured out a full 20 oz. cup of flakes, and the steel is completely gone along a couple of edges. I'll look for other notes on the experience of re-building it structurally, but I know a couple of things for certain. When I do this there will be a better sealing material used than a bead of silicone, and I'll make sure there is plenty of drainage along the bottom edge so moisture can't be trapped inside.

The corrosion had caused the steel to laminate and the fiberglass distorted so it would not have swung up into the stored position without rubbing and damaging the adjacent bay door anyway. So it's not like I had a choice in the matter.

All the best,

Michael
Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #1 –
Quote from: geomm –

So -- fixed that but then decided it was a good time to tackle the job of totally removing the step, drilling out the rivets attaching the fiberglass to the steel, and see how bad the corrosion was when separating the parts. (It was quite ugly from the outside so I expected a lot of corrosion inside)

It was amazing! -- I probably poured out a full 20 oz. cup of flakes, and the steel is completely gone along a couple of edges. I'll look for other notes on the experience of re-building it structurally, but I know a couple of things for certain. When I do this there will be a better sealing material used than a bead of silicone, and I'll make sure there is plenty of drainage along the bottom edge so moisture can't be trapped inside.

The corrosion had caused the steel to laminate and the fiberglass distorted so it would not have swung up into the stored position without rubbing and damaging the adjacent bay door anyway. So it's not like I had a choice in the matter.

All the best,

Michael
Mike
Here is a good write up on the process
Rotten Entry Step
The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #2 –
Thanks, Barry!
Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Barry Beam –
Mike
Here is a good write up on the process
Rotten Entry Step
Wrong part of the step. Mike is describing the hinged flip up step.  Maybe future write-up can be titled something like "Hinged Entry step repair" as this has nothing to do with replacing the main fuel hose and the step repair gets difficult to find. At some point this year I will be working on the same issue.
Rick

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Rick –
Maybe future write-up can be titled something like "Hinged Entry step repair" as this has nothing to do with replacing the main fuel hose and the step repair gets difficult to find.

Split these couple of posts out to a new topic.

Michelle
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #5 –
When I took the fiberglass cover off it's frame, I had about a cup of water inside of it. The frame was good but very rusty . I wire brushed the frame and then sprayed it with 3 coats of marine galvanised paint. I then used 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealent to reattach the cover. I remover the old Foretravel safety tread, cleaned and painted the step and then installed a new safety tread. I didn't drill any drainage holes . I was concerned about road spray getting inside the cover. Something I now do is flip the step closed when in storage . Water will lay on top of the step when down and start to rust the joint between the fiberglass cover and the step. Gam
joseph gambaro
1999 U295 36'

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #6 –
While I need to remove my hinged step and open it up, I drilled two holes to drain it. one is at the top and one at the bottom of the face that is out when in the up position. This helps with draining when the stop is out and also when in the travel mode.
Larry
1996 U295 36'
Build # 4805
Actually we sold it but just like to lurk

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #8 –
I too had a bucket of rust on mine.  I took it off, primed it and painted with Rustoleum black paint.  I have not replaced yet but feel getting a metal fabricating shop to make one out of either plate aluminum or galvanized would be the ticket. Of course the Galvanizing would need to be done after fabrication.  That is why I was thinking about aluminum.  So far, just been using the spray rustoleum to touch up now and then.  Agree that the holes in the fiberglass hidden on back down side for drainage is good idea.  So far the wire brush/paint is holding up (about 6mos).  I put the fiberglass back on the step with stainless screws (had pop rivets).  This makes it easier to remove. 
Best of Travels

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #9 –
I had the same problem over a yr ago and wrote here about it.
I ground and wire brushed all the rust off then coated it in Osphos!! to seal any rust. I then painted it with Rustoleum black and when putting the cover back I too drilled 2-1/8th holes in what is the bottom side but also drilled some holes in the frame itself so that when in the up position water (if it ever got in) could run from anywhere in the framing out thru these holes and then out the fibreglass ones. I did not silicone it back but put a single screww in each side to hold cover on. This can now be removed to check condition. Since I did this job I have had it off twice and no more rust as water drains out easy. This works fine and too me is the easy answer.
John
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #10 –
I took mine off and had the metal sand blasted, than reattached the fiberglass and sprayed the metal and lip of fiberglass with a can of black bedliner spray that you can get at any auto supply.  Has been on for 3 years and still looks new and no need for the safety tread.
Jimmy Freytag,  Ardmore, Ok
1999 36ft U320. — -SOLD—-
1988 40ft GV        1990 36ft U280
1993 40ft U280      1996 36ft U280
  TRAVEL WHILE YOU CAN THE TIME WILL COME
            WHEN YOU NO LONGER CAN.

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #11 –
Duh, on me. 
And thanks Jim, I like the idea of bed liner covering the step.  I actually have some in my garage left over from another project.  This sounds like a GREAT idea.  I think it should beat the Rustoleum alone on protection against recurring rust, look better, wear better, and be less slippery when wet.  Now I have a little project that needs attention. 
Best of Travels

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #12 –
I didn't like the looks of the cap screws holding the step hinge on so I replaced them with stainless button head cap screws. Getting the old ones out was a pain. I soaked the heads with LPS for a day and then was able to get them to turn a little. Once they were just above the hinge, I soaked them again for a few hours. Was able to remove them but kept a lot of downward pressure so as not to round the corners and make removal very difficult.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)
 

Re: Flip up entry step corrosion

Reply #13 –
Thanks Jim and John,
Took off my step over the weekend. It was collecting water (not visable) and starting to rust again inside where the water was collecting despite my previous wire brushing and painting with rustoleum.  I wire brushed it again, primed it and then coated with bed liner.  I then noted that water was sitting on the step and drilled a couple of holes in the metal step and the fiberglass cover in a spot that was not obvious (yet dependent to allow drainage).  I think this should do it for a while now.  Perhaps this should be under the title of "what I did to my motorhome".  Reattached the fiberglass with the stainless screws. Kudos to both. 
Best of Travels