Entry Step Rivets

Topic: Entry Step Rivets (Read 937 times) previous topic - next topic

Entry Step Rivets

March 03, 2013, 03:55:05 pm

We bought that 95 300 that was for sale in Classifieds. Anyhow, I'm fixing a few things here and there. The entry step was missing three rivets so I pulled it, drilled out the remaining seven and cleaned it all up. Anyhow, I'm considering the best way to reattach the hinge. The holes are about 7/32 inch. I could get someone to re-rivet it on, maybe thread the holes and bolt it. Anybody have a suggestion? Thanks.
jor

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #1 – March 03, 2013, 03:58:30 pm

I used stainless 1/4-20 panhead screws on both sides of the hinge. Had to tap the threads. Did this about 10 years ago - still good.

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #2 – March 03, 2013, 04:13:03 pm

Head out to Lowes or Home Depot and get yourself a manual riveting tool and some rivets of the correct size for the job. It is easy to use and you'll have lots of other uses for fastening applications.

Arrow RHT300 Twister Rivet Tool at Blain's Farm & Fleet

This is the model I have.

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #3 – March 03, 2013, 04:32:45 pm

My 95U280 has stainless button head screws, don't think it has ever been apart so its probably factory done.
Gary B

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #4 – March 03, 2013, 07:11:28 pm

If you are going to tap the holes use 1/4-28 tap. The tap itself is stronger due to the shorter flanks on the thread form. Also, use a tap drill that will give you around 55% of thread.
Also, tensile strength of a 1/4-28 thread is 770# greater than a 1/4-20.

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #5 – March 03, 2013, 07:20:16 pm

nitehawk,
I nearly forgot about the % of threading, that was a very closely watched when I worked for Boeing Vertal Helicopter Div, (tool & dye) normal was 80% threads and used the go/nogo gauge. Memories indeed.
Smile
Dave M

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #6 – March 03, 2013, 09:59:23 pm

I removed my step and used stainless bolts on the hinge so I can remove the step in the future. I used brass bolts to hold the fiberglass cover on and put spacer washers between the iron and the fiberglass to allow the water to pass through rather then attempting to seal out the water with urethane weather sealer as the factory had done. I drilled small drain holes in the fiberglass cover to allow the water to drain. I used a phosphoric acid rust converting paint sealed with enamel paint on the iron.

If you use rivets to re-attach the hinge it will be very difficult to remove - I would not be happy with that.

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #7 – March 03, 2013, 10:23:30 pm

I used button head stainless on mine. Had to soak the originals to get them to break loose and then soaked again for a day before they would come out without breaking off.

Pierce

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #8 – March 04, 2013, 09:23:44 am

80% of thread is quite "iffy" when hand tapping a 1/4-20 thread. The 1/4-20 tap web or cross section is inadequate for the force required to turn the tap. Unless extreme caution (and I do mean EXTREME) the tap will break.
A 1/4-28 tap will require less force to turn due to the shallower thread form. But because there are more threads per inch the holding force is greater. In most metals when 55% or more of the thread form is present and 1.5 times the thread dia of thread length the fastener will break befor the threads will fail.

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #9 – March 04, 2013, 09:49:35 am

Thanks to all. I'm going with the tap (28).

Peter, I have one of those manual riveters but I like the idea of being able to disassemble easily.

My step seems to be sealed well so I'm leaving the fiberglass in place.
jor

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #10 – March 04, 2013, 12:07:38 pm

Jor, I would not trust that it is on good and not leaking. Drill some drain holes in the bottom edge as a few of us have done. It may surprise you what comes out!!!
John

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #11 – March 04, 2013, 12:24:23 pm

John, any chance you could post a picture of where you drilled the holes in yours? Does it provide drainage for the step when it is down or when it is up?
Don

Quote from: John Haygarth – March 04, 2013, 12:07:38 pm

Jor, I would not trust that it is on good and not leaking. Drill some drain holes in the bottom edge as a few of us have done. It may surprise you what comes out!!!
John

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #12 – March 04, 2013, 02:13:24 pm

the holes are in the underside edge when step is up. I have 3 and they line up with holes drilled thru the steel gussets inside the step so there is no build up of water. I then put the fibreglass cover back on and hold it in place with a stainless screw in each end. Easy to take apart and make sure all is well.
we have just arrived home from 2 month trip and have lots to do so pic will have to wait-sorry
John H

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Entry Step Rivets

March 03, 2013, 03:55:05 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #1 – March 03, 2013, 03:58:30 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #2 – March 03, 2013, 04:13:03 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #3 – March 03, 2013, 04:32:45 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #4 – March 03, 2013, 07:11:28 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #5 – March 03, 2013, 07:20:16 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #6 – March 03, 2013, 09:59:23 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #7 – March 03, 2013, 10:23:30 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #8 – March 04, 2013, 09:23:44 am

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #9 – March 04, 2013, 09:49:35 am

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #10 – March 04, 2013, 12:07:38 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #11 – March 04, 2013, 12:24:23 pm

Re: Entry Step Rivets

Reply #12 – March 04, 2013, 02:13:24 pm

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