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Monitor

I finally got all the pieces I need to check out the backup camera/monitor system, and a few hours to work. Questions:

1. Should there be power to the camera at all times, only when the engine is running, or only when the engine is running and the transmission is in reverse?
2. Engine display on the monitor should be on only when the engine is running, right?
3. The monitor has two rocker switches and a rotary switch. One of those switches turns the monitor on and off. The other switches between the backup camera and the engine instruments, right? The rotary switch is supposed to be a dimmer, and ought to have a definite minimum and maximum position, right?

Thanks for the help. Questions 2 and 3 are as I understand the manual. The manual leaves me with the impression that the camera should be powered whenever the engine is on, but it seems a bit unclear, so I thought I'd ask the experts.

Re: Monitor

Reply #1 –
I have a 1995 U300, and my set-up is a little different. I have no engine parameters (instrument readings) displayed on the monitor. All mine are on the regular VDO dash guages.


With the Monitor rocker in the off position, the Audit black-box is also off, as is the power to the camera, as this is where it gets its power feed.

If the monitor rocker is on, and the select rocker is in the top position ( of three, as mine has top, middle, and bottom) then the black, grey, and fresh tank levels start to update, and also the propane tank level.

Moving the select rocker to the center position then powers up the rear camera.

Bottom position on the rocker displays the compass, the Coach interior temp, and exterior temp.

Yes, the rotary knob is only for the CRT brightness.

So -- your camera would not be powered up (with engine running or trans in reverse) unless you have the monitor switch on, and the select switch in that position to display the image on the monitor.

This -- IF -- your system works like mine.
Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: Monitor

Reply #2 –
I spent about an hour poking around, and I'm more convinced than ever that the problem is a lack of electricity. The power switch has one reddish/orange wire on the top (#24, if I remember correctly) and three similarly-colored wires coming out the bottom. All three of those are wrapped together and marked 56. They are different sizes. I think they head off into the front left corner of the under dash area.

I would guess that the single wire is the power in, and the three wires are power out to the computer, camera, and monitor. The next time I get a chance to work out there I'll see if I have 12v at either one. You don't suppose that the power switch has died?

Just to the left of the fuses are three bolts with the threads sticking up. Each one has a rather impressive collection of black, white, gray, and green wires attached to it. I'm guessing that those are ground lugs?

Re: Monitor

Reply #3 –
David, the Audit system works independently of the ignition key. You should have a constant hot wire at the rocker switch. If not start tracing the red wire back to the source. The easiest way to check the Audit switch wiring is to remove the heater control mechanism. Just take out the two screws, one on each side and set the whole assembly aside. Now you can see and get to all of the wiring connections for the Audit on/off switch, rheostat and three position rocker switch.
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback

Re: Monitor

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Kent Speers –
The easiest way to check the Audit switch wiring is to remove the heater control mechanism. Just take out the two screws, one on each side and set the whole assembly aside.

Be careful when removing and re-installing thereafter control. The screws are set in the dash which is some kind of potted material that flakes if you are not careful. Don't ask me how I know.

Roland
1993 U280 4341
2010 Jeep Liberty
The Pied Pipers

Re: Monitor

Reply #5 –
I have the heater controls out (well, off the dash and set more or less out of the way) and I'll be trying to trace the wire tomorrow. It looks like Foretravel decided to put plenty of extra wire in each bundle and then wrapped it back on itself three or four times. Looks like I'd better pick up more cable ties tonight.

The screws on mine look like they are going into some sort of particle board, so I'm careful not to overtighten them. A decent repair method is to dip a toothpick into some white glue, stick it in the screw hole, and break it off flush. If the hole is significantly enlarged, several toothpicks may be needed. Once the hole is somewhat filled with the broken-off toothpicks, put the screw back in.

Re: Monitor

Reply #6 –
I hooked a television directly to the backup camera, and get a mostly white image. Jo Ann stood in the camera's viewing area and waved. I could see motion, but only because I knew what I was looking at. I'm guessing that the camera needs replacement.

Then I reconnected the coax and moved the television to the front. I connected the television to the output of the Audit box, and I have information! It is reversed, and hard to read, but the computer IS putting out the proper information. I'm guessing that the little monitor has died.

I don't see any altimeter or compass readouts, so I'm assuming that this computer doesn't have those options. I also didn't see any speed indication, although that may have been hidden behind something else.

Now the questions (you knew those were coming, didn't you?).
1. Should I get one of those cheap Chinese cameras, or is there something better? Obviously a camera that will use the existing power and coax connections would be ideal, but I suspect that some things may have changed in 20 years.
2. What's the recommended monitor?
3. Should I go ahead and replace the computer, too? If so, what's the recommended complete system?

Re: Monitor

Reply #7 –
David,

Here is exactly how I did it two or three years ago. The "cheap" China camera is what the RV suppliers here charge 10-20x as much $$ for. The stock camera used BNC connectors but I snipped, stripped and soldered a new connector on. Easier is to go to Radio Shack and just buy an adapter.

Make sure to buy a monitor with at least two inputs. That way you can bring the Audit info in or another camera. I mounted the monitor where it would be in line with the right side mirror so I would have to take my eyes off the road the least amount of time.

The "cheap" monitor also does a reverse image as well as will invert the image if you install the camera upside down. The new camera is waterproof so I did not seal off the camera from the elements. Day image is good and the night image has to be seen to be believed.

Here is the link to the old forum post. It includes a link to our Picasa album with all the photos of the camera/monitor/template, etc.: Rear Camera, Monitor installation details

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)
 

Re: Monitor

Reply #8 –
There are many good combinations to choose from. We used a ToteVision LCD-560 monitor and a Voyager VCCS150 camera. The monitor is a good fit for our dashes and the camera is very nice (wide view, great color). Good luck.
jor

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