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Topic: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions (Read 1071 times) previous topic - next topic

Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Well... it was an interesting day yesterday -- for the first time since I acquired the Coach last October --trying to figure out the various features and operations in the Tank Service Bay.

I do have both of the FT binders that cover many operations of the Coach systems, but there are no real detailed instructions about the various "to-do" operations in the Bay. I've attached a picture of my set-up, all original ( now cleaned up and sparkling again).  The first thing I did was to hook up a garden hose to the hose you see that goes through the bulkhead (blue plastic right-angle fitting) that sits between the "sonic flusher" connectors.

I then switched on the "water fill" rocker. On the other side of the Coach, in the bay where the black and grey tanks sit -- I luckily had not re-fitted the cover panel that is carpeted (something I had to remove when replacing the main fuel hose). I heard water leaking, and running over to the other side, it was coming out of a white flexible hose that sits on top of the tanks-- that I had neglected to re-connect to its drain fitting, one that simply dumps on the ground right ahead of the rear wheels on that side. So -- I flooded the bay floor with about an inch of water, but did no damage -- just used the wet-vac to remove it. I was actually glad to find this as the source of the leak, as I initially thought I might have a rusted out water heater!

Anyway --I am assuming that this is the way it works -- when the tank gets to it's full capacity, it dumps through this white overflow hose. What I don't fully understand is the reason for the water-fill switch. Does it open a solenoid to allow tank filling, then? -- and if so, is there supposed to be an auto-shut off feature from the tank level sensor that then closes the solenoid -- so water does not pass into the white overflow hose?

Now if that is the case, I already understand why that would not have had worked in my case. That is because I realized that when I was on the passenger side, and wrestling with getting that main fuel hose through the bulkheads, getting other stuff out of the way like the silver heat duct hoses, I disturbed those delicate tank level sensor wires to the point that the one on the fresh water tank broke off, and it looks like I am going to have to pull the water heater panel out to be able to get access to it. Bummer!

I'm going to need to know a source for that sensor strip, and probably one of them on the black tank, that is loose at the connection, and questionable.

Next question. I did flush & drain all the tanks for the first time. The black tank had been treated with some blue-colored product, as it was almost solid blue in color (it was 25% full), and it drained at a pretty high rate, so I don't believe I have any blockage there. There was very little solids content in the effluent, and now the monitor does read empty, so I think my sensor is working properly on that tank.

I then drained the grey tank, and same thing -- good flow rate, with only a few "floaty's" -- like bio-mass from the sitting. Then I used the quick-release fittings connected to the garden hose/ house supply of pressurized water, and tried the sonic-flush connectors on both tanks, and they seemed to work okay -- I could hear a whooshing sound, and the main dump pipe run-out did show I was removing a bit more stuff probably adhered to the tank walls/bottom. I'm also assuming that the hose you see on the goose neck faucet, then connected to the sonic-flushers, with the water-pump rocker switched on -- is how you do a flushing using on-board water, when you are boondocking. Correct?

The next thing has me, again -- perplexed. In the lower-left of the picture is a fitting that I am assuming is used for connecting to a supply line when at a RV Park. I assumed it would pressurize the Coach's water system -- but again, when I connected my house supply hose -- it started dumping water through that white drain hose on the other side of the Coach.

Maybe this all comes down to a solenoid valve that is not operating because of the broken level sensor on the tank. Or-- maybe the solenoid itself is bad.

Or??

On a real positive side, the toilet is working great. Flap operation smooth, and the standing water it leaves stayed at the same level overnight, so it's sealing just fine. And all of the faucets and shower head work great with the water pump switched on, no leaks. The water pump, once it has pressurized the system, shuts off fine, and even waiting an hour, it never cycled back on as it would if there was a leak somewhere -- only doing so when I would again flush the toilet, and then only for a few seconds.

I did observe, though -- when I turned on the shower head, the first couple of seconds the water was slightly rust colored. That concerns me. Hope the hot water tank is not about to give up the ghost --  from the sitting and not being drained by the PO using those ball-valves that sit under it.

Any help greatly appreciated. I've never before owned a Motorhome -- or any other RV. 
So this is a real learning experience for me.

All the best out there,

Michael 
Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #1 –
Micheal,
On my 280 there is a ball valve under the bathroom sink, one way you fill the tank, other way you pressurize the system with CG water.
May work different since you have a FILL rocker switch, try with fill switch off to hook up to CG water, should pressurize system. Don't fail to use a pressure regulator when on CG water.
Don't worry about gunk in shower head, water heater tank is aluminum and coated, no rust there.  Pull the plug from the water heater and use a long 1/2 or less piece of copper pipe to flush out the deposits in the water heater. Remove all the strainers from the faucets and clean them out.
If you have not already done it, replace the AD2 Water filter under the sink.
Those fill level strips on the tanks are crap.  Look into an aftermarket set.  I have tried everything I can to get mine to work, I Can guess at fresh water level so I live with it.
Sounds like you are about ready to hit the road.  Good luck.
Gary B

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #2 –
#1 No auto shut off ! manually turn off the rocker when you hear water running on ground.  #2 I only flush holding tanks when an outside source is available for flush water. On board fresh water is too valuable to waste flushing tanks. It is good to carry some residual treated water in your "Black" water tank as it keeps any solids from adhering to the bottom.  also, I always dump the "Black" water tank first then the "Gray" water to flush out the sewer hose. #3 The fitting at the lower left looks like an aftermarket installation. Your main water supply should be through the "Blue" right angle fitting between the flush ports. Also if you take that "Blue" right angle fitting off you will see that the original input water supply hose fitting has a "Back-flow" prevention gasket/diaphragm, at least that how mine works. Good Luck !
P.S.  The right hand panel, Behind the Goose-neck faucet comes off very easy. Just unscrew the faucet, take out the screws holding the trim cut the caulking in the seams and the right side will/should pull forward. It gives you access to the dump valves, and a view of the piping.
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Gerry & Brenda
CHARLOTTE HARBOR, FL
1994 Grand Villa - # 4466
U300 Unihome - 6V92 Detroit
4 speed Allison - Jake Brake

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Gerry Vicha –
#1 No auto shut off ! manually turn off the rocker when you hear water running on ground. 

I'm not so sure that's really a good practice - depending on the overflow hose routing/outlet you could cause the rear bulkhead to repeatedly get wet. 

Reality is that I have seen several FTers do this at CampFT and it seems like a very bad idea.

A while back someone had posted a link to a coach for sale (not owned by anyone on the forum).  The bottom of the "carpet" covering the manabloc looked stained and I suggested they look very carefully at the bulkhead on that coach if they were interested.  Yup - really bad rust jacking/separation.

Michelle
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #4 –
Michael..

Where is the "rocker" you are referring too..??

I have the same coach

Hans



Hans & Marjet
1995 U300 "Ben" (#4719)
3176B Cat,4060HD,Jake
SKP#139131
Motorcade#17579
2006 Honda Element (towed)

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #5 –
Quote from: geomm –
I did observe, though -- when I turned on the shower head, the first couple of seconds the water was slightly rust colored. That concerns me. Hope the hot water tank is not about to give up the ghost --  from the sitting and not being drained by the PO using those ball-valves that sit under it. 
Michael,  I recently replaced my city water input connection and discovered Foretravel had used a galvanized pipe nipple.  After 22 years it was rusty on the inside.  I remember seeing little bits of rust in the facets aerator screens in the past and wondered where in the world it came from since I didn't know of any steel in the water system.  My point is since you only see it on the shower, maybe there is a galvanized pipe used in the connection to the shower.  I replaced the galvanized nipple with a brass one.
John Fitzgerald
1991 U300 (SAI) Side Aisle Island Bed 40'
Detroit 6V92 with Allison Retarder
Meridian (Boise), Idaho

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #6 –
Hans,

The two "rocker" switches I refer to are side-by-side in the bay -- as pictured. One says water fill, and the other water pump.
Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #7 –
Quote from: Michelle –
I'm not so sure that's really a good practice - depending on the overflow hose routing/outlet you could cause the rear bulkhead to repeatedly get wet. 

Reality is that I have seen several FTers do this at CampFT and it seems like a very bad idea.

A while back someone had posted a link to a coach for sale (not owned by anyone on the forum).  The bottom of the "carpet" covering the manabloc looked stained and I suggested they look very carefully at the bulkhead on that coach if they were interested.  Yup - really bad rust jacking/separation.

Michelle

 ::)  Just to clarify; My Fresh water Tank over flow goes directly to the ground in front of the right rear tire and does not flow into or onto, the floor of the tank compartment. (that's the only reason I  use that procedure) I also have the ball valve under the bathroom sink to control the tank fill, same as Gary. ^.^d
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Gerry & Brenda
CHARLOTTE HARBOR, FL
1994 Grand Villa - # 4466
U300 Unihome - 6V92 Detroit
4 speed Allison - Jake Brake

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #8 –
On mine if you have both rocker switched on it will bypass the water to
an overflow mechanism with water going out to in front of the driver rear tires.
 If yours is as in mine, instructions somewhere in the coach
admonished to only have the fill rocker solenoid powered when filling fresh water tank, not have pump rocker on at same time.

I do not think you were doing that but just more info for you

I have not seen water overflow into the manifold area

Mike
Mike
2001 U320 4010 Build 5878 (Gus)
Wrangle Unlimited Toad
Nacogdoches

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Gerry Vicha –
::)  Just to clarify; My Fresh water Tank over flow goes directly to the ground in front of the right rear tire and does not flow into or onto, the floor of the tank compartment.

Thanks for clarifying! ^.^d  On the coaches which I'd seen using the "fill to overflow" method, the water was exiting the coaches in the water bay vicinity.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #10 –
Michelle, my fresh water overflow does run out under the coach in front of the rear tires as Gerry described but it is up above the bottom of the coach and does splash water on the bulkhead. Since it can cause rust jacking I always watch the water level very closely when filling and shut off the water before it hits the overflow. Some people have modified their overflow tube so it exits below the bulkhead but the factory configuration is above the bulkhead. Not a good setup. One of my projects when my shoulder heals is to reroute the overflow to exit below the coach. Is Steve real busy? :D :D Plans are that I will get my new shoulder, bionic man, in June in Kansas City so Steve can not feel so guilty about not helping me.

I can see the actual fresh water tank in the opening next to the dump bay. I have marked the exterior of the tank so that I can see when to shut off the outside water. This is more accurate than the Audit and I want the tank as full as possible since we always run our water out of the tank rather than use city or campground water. By constantly running fresh water through the tank we always have fresh water in the tank and it gets chlorinated water in it on a frequent basis. Also this allows the chlorine to dissolve out in 48 hours giving us better quality water out of the faucdet. We typically run a week on a full tank of fresh water. If boondocking and conserving water we can go two weeks. The only time we use city/CG water is for our monthly shower. ;D ;D ;D
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback
 

Re: Tank Drain/Fill Bay -- looking for details on operation of functions

Reply #11 –
::) Once the "water" is on the outside of the coach, what difference does it make? ??? We all run in the rain and on wet roads that splash water onto the fame, bulkheads and panels.  I would be very concerned if the coach was running on salted roads and in snow and ice or on dirt roads that have been treated with "brine",  then I would try to flush the bulkhead area a.s.a.p. after the exposure. ^.^d  Just Saying........
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Gerry & Brenda
CHARLOTTE HARBOR, FL
1994 Grand Villa - # 4466
U300 Unihome - 6V92 Detroit
4 speed Allison - Jake Brake