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Topic: Zinc Barrier Coat on the front suspension and frame (Read 898 times) previous topic - next topic

Zinc Barrier Coat on the front suspension and frame

Thought I'd share some pics (before and after, and yes I changed the ride-height linkage now to the proper orientation) of another small project that's almost complete. Here is what I used on a drill to remove surface corrosion, which was fairly light except for the steering rod from the box, and the tie-rod.

3M 9099DCNA Large Area Paint and Rust Stripper - Amazon.com

I then used red scotch-brite pads by hand on other areas where I could not get the wheel into. I didn't try to get any surfaces down to bare steel -- even though I'd thought of doing that but it would have meant renting a bead-blaster and I thought at this stage that was maybe overkill. I don't really have any plans to drive the Coach through winter climates where they salt the roads, and I've already learned enough about the cumulative effects of exposure to the Marine Layer on the California coastline to know that I will not be staying at a Park there for any extended period of time. The Coach was bought by the original owner here in SoCal and kept in San Clemente, CA -- and even though it only shows 7150 miles on the Odometer, it sat for years unused in that climate -- exposed to salt air and one might think it had many more road miles on the chassis.

I used  Rust-Oleum  7584838 Professional Bright Galvanizing Compound Spray Paint:

Rust-Oleum 7584838 Professional Bright Galvanizing Compound Spray Paint,

It took two cans to do the front-end, and I still have to get one more for a couple of missed spots. Whatever you do, make sure you wear a twin-cartridge filter mask/respirator when you spray. The product over-spray puts zillions of small zinc particles in the air, and I learned the hard way, that this is not good for you when sitting on your bum under the Coach and spraying.

Somebody commented on the Amazon review that the product was not that durable and scratched easily. My aim was just to provide a barrier coating that would need to be touched-up from time to time. So we shall see how it holds up.

I think when I tackle the rear-lower engine/trans bay, I may have to go the route of bead-blasting it first. There seems to be much more surface rust there. For instance, the tube & shell oil cooler housing for the Allison looks very gnarly. Rust just is a pet-peeve of mine. I don't like to see it -- even if it is just surface rust, and not even the type that has pitted a surface.

All the best out there,

Michael


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Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: Zinc Barrier Coat on the front suspension and frame

Reply #1
Michael,

Again, nice job. Too bad it was not done to all the undercarriage in '95. Could have saved a lot of folks problems. Don't know about the spray, but galvanizing will fill in any scratches if done at the factory.

Nice to have a good vapor mask on, not just for dust and mandatory with urethanes.

Ours looks about like your before photo.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Zinc Barrier Coat on the front suspension and frame

Reply #2
Michael,

I enjoy all your educational posts, great photos and project descriptions.  You could write a textbook on RV chassis restoration!  Question (just curious): Why did you choose the silver galvanizing spray paint over over a product like POR-15, which is specifically designed as a total rust solution?  I'm not criticizing your choice - you seem to think these things through very carefully.  I'm just trying to learn from your obviously much greater experience.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Zinc Barrier Coat on the front suspension and frame

Reply #3
Chuck,

I have used the Rust-Oleum Pro Bright galvanizing product before with good results on race car trailer frames. It has a 80% Zinc and 12% Aluminum content with an Epoxy Ester resin.  The POR-15 product also looks like a very good product, but must be brushed on after two previous prep steps of the metal. I wanted a spray application.

So even though the Pro Bright is intended to be used for applying on a surface that was hot-dip galvanized originally, it does have the Rust-Oleum "stop rust" formulation from what I understand -- and we shall see how it holds up on the Coach.

Another thing I have been "eye-balling" is the lower-front aerodynamics of the U300 - or any of the air bag equipped Unihomes with the integrated bumper. It would seem that at normal ride height the air hitting the lower valance would not be effectively moved around and under the vehicle. In other words, there is probably a lot of turbulence that is swirling and tumbling up into that suspension and frame cavity forward of the first bulkhead. I've been thinking that a future project will be to make a full-width fiberglass air dam to channel the air better. Just look at the more modern Semi Tractors and how far down the bodywork extends on them -- to get an idea.

All the best out there,

Michael
Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: Zinc Barrier Coat on the front suspension and frame

Reply #4
Nice Job!
I have used a similar product aboard my boat to recoat the anchor chains where subject to weathering,, and also anchors once/yr.  Both items are expensive so coating them with something makes sense! 
However, Myself and mariners have found the galvanizing products do not last long. It does pretty them up and it does protect them, but not for too long...
 Last month I- kind of did- the same project on my coach but used Rustoleum's Professional Semi-gloss or gloss paints in similar spray cans.( those pro paints from rustoleum are really tough and spray from almost any angle)  I have found in the past that ... (I think....harder surfaces produced by these paints protect longer.)  Just my thoughts.

You have got my brain going, so soon, I will do a test section underneath my coach.. let's discuss this again next year!  ;)
Coach Build # 5862/40'/2001/U320/Motorcader 17136

Re: Zinc Barrier Coat on the front suspension and frame

Reply #5
Ron, sounds nice.  Do I have to do any surface preparation?  Maybe wire brush?  I do not have a way to blast it off.  Not heavy or thick rust, just surface but not look nice.....which should probably not be a high priority right now, need to get oil leak in HWH pump to recycle some oil or I need to fix that leak.

I like the POR15 where is used it in a utility bay, so that sounded good.  But your idea of the spray cans of Rust Oleum sounds easier, effective.  But how to prep the surface?

Thanks,

Mike
Mike
2001 U320 4010 Build 5878 (Gus)
Wrangle Unlimited Toad
Nacogdoches

Re: Zinc Barrier Coat on the front suspension and frame

Reply #6
Hello Mike,  If you don't know me by now, know me here....I'm anal.  At least that's what I've been told for a few decades.  I take things too far, but I AM HAPPY!
yes...Prep is the key...it's all about details..no magic products/only good ones, so.... putting the good ones together and taking one's time, can give you the best alternatives available... at this time.

  Nothing done easily is really good.  Roll up your sleeves and you will always have a better outcome.

All metals under the coach were abraded by hand sanding or 'wheel' sanding.  Then used a compressor to blast off the loose dust.

All surfaces abraded were then.... treated with Ospho (phosphoric acid mix) and allowed to sit for 2 days.
All surfaces were then sprayed with 2-3 coats of the Rustoleum Pro paints from their spray cans...................I do suggest careful masks or preventative measures to not ingest this stuff!!!  Yeah, this is common sense, but, ..............

(I bought the 11.5" square box tubes suggested on this sight from Northern Tools? and they were onsale for $12 bucks!  (this was for safety, while laying below}
Coach Build # 5862/40'/2001/U320/Motorcader 17136

 

Re: Zinc Barrier Coat on the front suspension and frame

Reply #7
My hat is off to everyone who has gone the extra yard to do this work.  As I see it the choice of product boils down to a conversion coating like Por 15 or Conquest which is my mtl of choice, or a paint based coating.  Like Memory Roads says, pretreatment with ospho on rusty surfaces will greatly aid paint life. 

The conversion coatings actually require rust to work properly, if you sand it off you're wasting time and (expensive) material. These tannic acid coatings react with rust to form an inert coating, magnetite, and a suitable primer for any paint.  The jacks on my previous camper were suffering greatly from being parked a few hundred yards from the beach in Port Aransas for a couple years as the powdercoat quickly failed.  I coated them with Conquest without doing anything but knocking off protruding rust nodules and peeling powdercoat and then let them sit for a couple months.  Then painted and they were still looking good a year later.  We used it by the gallon at the Marine Science institute as rust wars in that environment are never ending.

No experience with the zinc based paint coatings so will be interested to see how it performs down the road.  Sure looks nice and a great improvement.
"Not so  long ago we were a nation of risk takers, riding five million pounds of  thrust straight into space."  Joe Gresh
Chuck Pearson
1996 U295
2018 Can Am X3 TurboRS