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Topic: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ? (Read 859 times) previous topic - next topic

Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Just about since we've had our coach, I believe the current alternator has not been producing a charge. We've always jumped if and fired up the gen so there was access to other amenities while driving and the charging gage always looked much healthier.

I've been slowly doing some improvements and now would like to do something with the alternator.
Right off hand I dont have the current size unit but have read on a post where someone was debating on installing a new same size as they currently had or I believe they said putting on a "big truck" alternator.

Does that sound right for one of our FT or did I misinterpret the comment?

Mine seems to be a pretty honking large size right now.

My question is, would it make sense to have it rebuilt by a reputable company or just buy something new?

Your comments, opinions & thoughts are always appreciated



Carl Sandel
1991 36' U280
Northern Michigan

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #1
I'm a big fan of keeping stuff pretty much stock unless I find a good reason to change. Our alternator failed suddenly. To the best of my knowledge it was original equipment and lasted about 15 years. We had it replaced at FOT with a new unit of the same type. We've been pleased with the result. It works.

From what I've read of others' experience, some "truck" alternators may not be suitable because of excitation and sensing issues. Be sure to get a unit that is suitable for an RV which has separate "chassis" and "house" batteries that are charged normally through an isolator.
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #2
Carl,

Had a Foretravel alternator rebuilt this year for $75 or upgrade the rebuild to 200 amp for $125.

If you replace, get a Delco brand as I am told they are more robust vs the Leece Neville.

The proper four wire voltage regulator is important and just any truck alternator/regulator will not do.
Rudy Legett
2003 U320 4010 ISM 450 hp
2001 U320 4220 ISM 450 hp
1995 U320 M11 400 hp
1990 Granvilla 300 hp 3208T
Aqua Hot Service Houston and Southeast Texas

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #3
Rebuilt is fine, in most cases. And won't be cheap. If you rebuild one that is correct for your coach it will at least alleviate the stress wondering if the one you bought is the problem or is it just the way it's hooked up.

Big truck alternators simply jumper the sense connection to the +12vdc because they do not have an isolator. Surprisingly enough, few alternator people understand this. If you get it rebuilt then there is at least a 50/50 chance that the people who rebuild it will put that jumper on.

If you get one from FOT they will, at least, understand how it works.

Just remember that you must connect a wire from the hot side of fhe isolator directly to the sense connection on the alternator. It cannot be jumpered.

If you don't have a wire (sometimes the techs actually cut and tape off (or not) the sense wire believing it's a useless wire. I ran a wire from my remote start switch to the sense  connection. Then, later, the wire that *should* have been there (and that someone simply stuffed back into the wire loom when they removed the alternator) fell out, landed on the exhaust manifold, shorted and got so hot that it burned up 15 wires in the engine room. DW and I spent most of April on our tummies over the rear bed tracing and replacing burned wires.

If you do replace that sense wire, fuse it.

Craig
1993 U225 36' Unihome GV with PACBRAKE exhaust retarder, Banks Stinger and Solar Panels.
Toad: 1999 Jeep Wrangler 2-door soft-top.

"No one has ever had to evacuate a city because the solar panels broke."

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #4
If the alternator has not had a major failure, a good rebuild shop will do an excellent job for about $100 even here in California. You are taking a chance with ordering a rebuilt or remanufactured alternator. Almost always minimum wage employees replacing only what they have to and as quickly as they can. There also may be a difference between bearings the low volume shop uses and the mass production facility.

The secret to finding a good shop is calling a member of your local EAA (experimental aircraft assoc.) and asking what shop the club guys use. The good local shops are also good to take your coach to and have a special problem diagnosed.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #5
Wow! Its a good thing I keep my head shaved because you guys would have just blew my hair right off if I had any!! Thats such a lot of great information and excellent points made. I've got some thinking to do and very much am thankful for all ya'll.
Thank you

Carl Sandel
1991 36' U280
Northern Michigan

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #6
Tell us what brand and model you have.  What I have done is contact the factory and ask for their recommendation of a factory approved rebuilder in my area.  Never been burned yet.

In fact, as Preventive Maintenance, I have had bearings and brushes replaced-- under $100 parts and labor on Foretravel alternators.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #7
Carl, Unless an alternator has a damaged rotor or stator , or a cracked case, there is little that cannot be repaired.  I like some others have had them rebuilt as a PM measure for 100 bucks or so.  When my Hehr Powerline  failed the shop found a bad stator and the cost of a new one was not worth it so I replaced it with a new Leece Neville.
You say that you do not think it is charging ?  What does your voltmeter show when running ?  Is it intermittent  ? When running you should show 14 volts or so.  I would verify that all wiring is correct, especially grounds and that belt is correctly tensioned before I would start replacing the alternator.
Good luck.
Gary B

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #8
I totally agree with Gary.

Do a complete job of troubleshooting before condemning the alternator.

If you need a step by step and have a digital voltmeter (a necessity on any RV and start around $10) let us know. It is NOT difficult.

Brett
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #9
I think I'd show up at the back door of the Prestolite/Leece Neville plant up in Arcade, NY with the alternator in tow.  Under a hour away, and use to know some folks there.
1994 U225
build #4514

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #10
When changing out the belt,
give the unit a spin to ensure the bearings are not drying out.  If they are,
it's not a big deal to replace them (if you are handy).
S/W Houston 95" U320C SE/40' 
Build #4778  Cummins M11
Repairs & Covered RV Parking (BAO)
PPL is close..

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #11
The quality of any rebuilt anything depends ob the person doing the job.  Sone are the rare breed that does a super correct build, but way too many are clock watchers working by thr piece = much higher posibility of short term luck.  Me, yes I inow a rare breed type and have never had bad luck with him, however we also have too much experience with the true idiot passing off as a quality rebuilder,
If I were stuck on the road, I will go for the correct NEW unit or go hone without it.
 Its all a crap shoot

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #12
Leece-Neville 160 Amp A0012824LC Alternator
Overhaul Kit K183104747S for A0012824LC Alternator
New PN for (same) alternator 2824LC
200 amp update is PN 4884JB
Leece-Neville Tech Dept 866-288-9853 (Paula)
pc
S/W Houston 95" U320C SE/40' 
Build #4778  Cummins M11
Repairs & Covered RV Parking (BAO)
PPL is close..

 

Re: Rebuild Alt VS Buy New ?

Reply #13
After I installed my new alternator, and in a flash of brilliance left the output lead, apparently, somewhat loose, it burned the lug off.  I disassembled, those things are dead simple, replaced the diode assembly which was partly melted and lug.  No problems since.  It would probably be possible to spec out higher grade bearings.  Bought the parts from Ryder fleet prod if I remember right 4% of one C.B.  Have been torture testing it, charging battery bank if it's less than 100 Amp hr. down. 
"Not so  long ago we were a nation of risk takers, riding five million pounds of  thrust straight into space."  Joe Gresh
Chuck Pearson
1996 U295
2018 Can Am X3 TurboRS